The "Miracle Dress": Yea or Nay?

I spotted this dress in the New York Post a while back, and made a mental note to write about it. The article featured a form-fitting dress by Stella McCartney that has slim panels at the sides in a much darker color than the main fashion fabric. The effect is an optical illusion that gives the wearer a pronounced hourglass shape at first glance. The press has dubbed it the "Miracle Dress" since it supposedly takes off 2 dress sizes. (It also has some strange bust shading and shaping that makes one's breasts seem to be looming in the foreground.) The $1600 dress has been worn by several celebrities and is sold out in stores.

On one hand, the whole thing is rather ridiculous. There are no "miracles" being performed here--just illusions. Also, Kate Winslet's figure doesn't really need any help. It's a little disturbing how the dress is engineered to give the impression of the ideal female form, in a sort of extreme way. If you look at it too long, it becomes flat and overly stylized, like Kate Winslet is sticking her head through one of those boardwalk murals with the face holes. (What's the correct term for those things anyway?)

But on the other hand, I enjoy how the dress highlights the way color and seaming can work together to create a certain effect. The whole thing reminds me of the Lanvin Castillo dress that I saw at the Golden Age of Couture exhibit, which our guide pointed out as having a trompe l'oeil ("trick of the eye") effect from the beading. From across the room, one might be scandalized by how low-cut the dress is, only to discover that the neckline is actually fairly modest upon closer inspection.

The Miracle Dress effect would actually be quite easy to replicate, and there are several color-blocked patterns on the market now, including Butterick 5554:

One could make the panels curvier and voila! A Miracle Dress. But the question is: should one?

It's also easy to see this kind of paneling fitting into a retro look. The two-tone thing in light and dark was popular in the 40s, as seen in this repro dress:

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What do you think of the Miracle Dress? Sublime or silly?

Quilting Cottons for Garments: Yea or Nay?

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Oooh, here's a good debate! Is any subject more fraught with controversy in the sewing world? This is a matter that people are highly opinionated on, so I'm sure we'll get some good discussions going here. (And I'm sure they'll be very civil, right ladies?)

The general "rule" in the garment sewing world is to never, ever use quilting cottons for garments as they are too stiffly woven and won't drape properly. For those that fear the "Becky Home-ecky" look, breaking this rule is tantamount to cardinal sin.

There seem to be three types of seamstresses when it comes to this matter.

First, you have your fabric connoisseurs who wouldn't touch a quilting cotton with a ten foot pole. They're devoted to lovely garment fabrics and (let's face it) they're not afraid to criticize anyone who uses quilting cottons for garments. 

Then you have your rebels who love to use quilting cottons and aren't afraid to flaunt it. Hey, they're adorable, widely available, and inexpensive. "What's not to like?" these rogue warriors say. (This is often said in a defensive tone, it must be admitted.)

Lastly, you have your voices of reason: the sewists who say that all fabric varies widely and it's largely about the quality of the cotton in question. For these level-headed seamstresses, each fabric must be judged by its own merits, not dismissed as a wholesale group.

Hmm. Or maybe there are four types, the fourth being the sewist who vacillates between these groups depending on which stance conveniently supports her current frame of mind. This fourth type wants to be virtuous, but her morals start to break down in the face of fabulous printed cottons with sugar skulls or birdcages. This would be me.

I've made one garment out of quilting cotton, and I was not struck down by the sewing goddesses. In fact, I rather like it:

Which type of sewist are you when it comes to this matter?

Tulip Sleeves: Yea or Nay?

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Are tulip sleeves controversial? I guess we're about to find out! I'm adding them to a pattern variation in my book, and I suddenly began to wonder what the general consensus was on the matter.

Personally, I do like these sweet little sleeves. They add an interesting design line, and their split structure makes them comfy rather than confining. I prefer when they're petite with a bit of gathering on the sleeve cap.

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I think tulip sleeves were done best in the 1940s. The proportions were just right.

They had slimmed down from the 30s, which were quite fluffier. All the more dramatic to wear with your turban!

Tulip sleeves seem to have fallen out of fashion in the 50s and 60s, only to return with a vengeance in the 70s and 80s. These are like Little Shop of Horrors tulip sleeves.

Your turn to weigh in, readers. Yea or nay on the tulip sleeve?

P.S. They're easy to draft! There's a great post on the subject here. 

Peasant Chic: Yea or Nay?

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Readers, I've fallen hard for this pattern. Isn't it so perfect? I've never been into boho chic, but this pattern perfectly mixes a 40s-style peasant blouse with the sleekness of a 50s fitted bodice. The use of contrasting fabrics is divine. And two skirt options! I especially like the wiggly one. No surprise there, I guess.

Unfortunately, I could only find it in a Bust 32" (and for $75, sigh). But it seems like it would be simple enough to drape the bottom half and combine it with a peasant blouse pattern on top, don't you think?

Of course, there's also Vogue 8728, a recent 40s reissue that has similar styling in the bodice, minus the puff sleeves. It would be fun to mix and match with different fabrics and skirt styles.

I'm curious what you all think of peasant blouses in general. Can you get over their 70s associations? They were very popular in the 40s and 50s, so perhaps we need to bring this style back to its more glam, less boho roots. Plus I'm thinking this style of blouse will be perfect for my new freelance lifestyle, especially when paired with a high-waisted skirt or pair of shorts. Do you have a favorite pattern for this type of blouse?

The Silk Jumpsuit: Yea or Nay?

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Over the weekend, I visited the FIT exhibit "His and Hers" and saw the most amazing garment: an evening ensemble designed in 1937 by Muriel King. It's essentially a jumpsuit in black silk crepe, with a low scoop neck and palazzo pants that gather into a turkish-type pantleg at the bottom. It had a hip swag with ties that hung gracefully in the front, almost making the ensemble appear to be a gown (in fact, the hip swag was reminiscent of the green charmeuse gown from Atonement we discussed a few days ago). Apparently Vogue magazine suggested that this would be just the kind of thing to wear for dining at home. (Whether this means entertaining at home or just eating takeout on the sofa was unclear to me.) What was clear was that I was smitten with the whole effect. I so wish I could show you a picture of this ensemble! Alas, it is not on the FIT online archive.

The piece got me thinking about how to make a version for myself, in a slinky black jersey, which I will wear to eat bonbons and order about the pool boy. I quite like the scoop neck and waist tie on this pattern, which is a reproduction from Decades of Style called the "kitchenette pajama:"

But perhaps the best of all is this Marfy pattern, which has a glamorous bodice and the same turkish pant legs of the Muriel King on exhibit. Marfy calls it a "cross between the 1950s and the Far East."

Some more research indicated not only was the silk jumpsuit the thing to wear for dining at home in 1937, but it's also the piece of 2011. I especially like this Marc by Marc Jacobs number, perhaps mostly because of the fierce model and her amazing hair.

I'm also digging this Sonia Rykiel jumpsuit with it's floppy velvet bow. Has a certain elegant charm, yes?

What do you think of this whole look? It's one thing to imagine yourself wearing this while your butler brings you champagne and strawberries . . . and yet another to actually wear it. We've debated jumpsuits here before, but this is the most glamorous I've seen them. Can these slinky versions change your mind?

Tea Length: Yea or Nay?

Readers, I have spent a lot of time shortening vintage patterns from tea length to just-below-knee length. I think I'm even on record as saying that tea length is the most unflattering skirt length possible. But I'm experiencing a change of heart lately. Specifically, since Hailee Steinfeld wore this lovely Marchesa to the Oscars. How adorable is she? Tea length, where have you been all my life? Ah yes, I've been chopping you off all my patterns. My bad.

Some other awesome ladies showing how vintage tea length is done. (You know, I think it needs a cooler name. Champagne length? Rock star length?)

And, of course, the dress that's launched a million tea-length fantasies:

The closest I've ever come to tea length is my yellow dress, which, at a 26" skirt length, is only about 2" longer than I usually go. That's like tea length for wusses.

I think part of my issue is footwear. The longer length really looks better with high heels (emphasis on high), don't you think? So this requires planning ahead. Not just holding up a skirt to you while barefoot in your sewing room, deciding it looks frumpy, and chopping 3 more inches off.

If you like this length, you're certainly not at a loss for patterns. Besides true vintage patterns, re-issues are abundant in tea length. (Though I stand by my earlier suggestion that Vogue offer two variations of their Vintage line in each pattern: one in the original length, and one in a more modern length. Wouldn't that be awesome?)

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Also, if any of you are getting married, you should totally wear tea-length, like this amazing design. I missed my chance! (Sniff.)

Okay, readers. Thoughts on tea length dresses: yea or nay?

Open-Toe Booties: Yea or Nay?

First, let me start by saying this: I know my "yea or nay" picks will be polarizing. That's the point! It would be an exercise in futility with you awesome people to post a frothy 50s Dior couture dress (for example) and ask your opinion. That's right, I know how you tick! Instead, I usually post things that aren't necessarily my style but I think may be kind of cool (or I could be completely wrong about).

Today's on-the-edge fashion is open-toe booties. Readers, how I've struggled with this style. I first dismissed them as utterly fug. Then I started seeing them on some of my favorite retro style bloggers, looking glam paired with full-skirted dresses. How confusing this dark period was for me!

Another turning point in this scintillating story occurred yesterday, with the arrival of the new Anthropologie catalog. Readers, I saw these:

And was inexplicably drawn to them. I just like them, that's all there is to it. I showed them to Jeff.

"Well, you don't have any other shoes like them, that's for sure," he declared. (He often puzzles over why I need, say, hot pink pumps in two different styles.)

"Are they . . . ugly?" I asked.

"Borderline," he replied.

So yes, I have ordered these "borderline ugly" shoes so I can see for myself. But what do you think, readers? What say you of open-toed booties in general?

Now, for a few footwear fashions that I hope aren't polarizing. First, what I think may indeed be the ugliest pair of shoes I have ever seen:

And on the other end of the spectrum: these fabulous platform pumps, which I admit are on their way to me as well, due to a moment of weakness and an Anthro gift card. Look at the raspberry-colored piping and hidden platform!

Now, if you need a good laugh at Anthropologie's expense after viewing any of these, you must read Regretsy's new feature: Etsy or Anthropologie? Pure awesome. She really stumped me with the plastic dinosaur brooch.

Betsey Johnson's Gun Dress: Yea or Nay?

I love this dress. I've actually had it in my inspiration folder for a couple years, and I keep coming back to it. It's from Betsey Johnson's 1985 collection, and she showed it again for her fall 2008 show to celebrate her 30 years in the biz.

I've always thought this gun print was so amazing and have often contemplated imitating it with graffiti-style stencils on fabric. There's something so badass about the image of a handgun, especially when combined with a feminine silhouette like this one. It makes me think of Bonnie Parker, especially with the long, lean skirt. It balances punk and glam perfectly, and let's face it—it would look awesome with tattoos. As evidenced by this short pink version:

But in a strange moment of synchronicity, I came across this picture on my computer the day after the shootings in Tucson. I'd already been thinking that day about gun laws and the ways we seem to let the mentally ill fall through the cracks. To be clear: I don't know the solutions to these issues, and I'm not saying I know how the shooting could have been prevented. But the images of the guns on the dress struck me as more sinister than I'd seen them previously. Of course, this got me thinking about what we say with our clothes. What exactly are you saying to the world by wearing this kind of dress? That guns are cool? That violence is awesome? Or just that you have a sense of irony about the way you dress?

I know I must sound really bleeding-heart liberal right now, and that dresses with guns printed on them are the least of our problems in the U.S. And it's not really any different from, say, a dress with skulls on it. And I am still leaning toward the dress being badass and a total "yea" and worth taking the time to replicate on my own. I just think it's interesting when the semiotics of fashion breaks down a bit and becomes suddenly strange to the viewer. And fashion has always had a fascination with the play between glamorous and macabre, so perhaps that's all that's at play here.

What do you think: yea or nay?

Ankle Socks: Yea or Nay?

Have you seen the spread "Retro Modern" in the new issue of Lucky magazine? I think it is beyond fabulous. I love the hair, the makeup, the bold color combos, and the swingy 50s-style skirts. But all this is to be expected of me. I was, however, surprised to find how much I liked the stylist's use of ankle socks.

Are you feeling the ankle sock love, readers? Look how cute with pumps and t-straps!

I realize this might not be a popular opinion, hence the "nay" option in the title of this post. And, granted, I've never tried to wear ankle socks and it may prove to be rather unflattering on me. But you never know until you experiment, right? I'm excited to buy some for fall and give this look a go. (The Lucky spread sourced their socks here.)

What say you: yea or nay?

New Glasses! Yea or Nay?

Last week, I worried that my glasses would clash with a fascinator. I contemplated ordering some contacts, but I somehow found myself trolling vintage eyewear sites instead. (Oops!) These lovelies were added to my cart, and the rest is history. I've been wanting a second pair of glasses for a while now; something that would contrast with the chunkiness of my regular specs. (Not that I don't adore the chunkiness too!)

But here's my question for you: are these the perfect pair? (I deliberately ordered from a place with a good exchange policy since getting the right specs can be a trial - so swapping these for another pair won't be a problem.)

I initially worried that these are too small for my face, which Jeff says is absurd. However, he does feel that they err on the side of "costume-y." It's always a good sign when Jeff likes something right away (he has great taste, if I may say so myself). He's hedging on these, which worries me.

Here's how they look when I'm cuddling Pip, which she is so clearly enjoying. (She has a strong pro-Jeff bias, which I totally get. And little Henry adores me enough to make up for any slights from Pippi.)

Being on the fence still about these, I decided on a back-up pair should I want to make an exchange. Pretty sweet, huh?

Because I'm indecisive, I need your help, readers. What's your opinion? Keep the black, or exchange them to try the tortoiseshell pair? Hey, I've even put in a handy-dandy poll so it's easy for you to make your opinion known!



And, of course, I love to hear your comments below! Thanks, friends.

Pippi says bye!

Update: Here's a link to the online shop I'm buying from. They're fantastic; all their glasses are never-worn optometrist's deadstock. New glasses for everyone! Hurrah!

Tina Fey's YSL Jumpsuit: Yea or Nay?

(Ooh, this is going to be a good one!) Is there anything more sartorially polarizing than a jumpsuit these days? People either love 'em or hate 'em. So it's unsurprising that Tina Fey's choice for the Met Costume Institute Ball this past Monday - a strapless Yves St. Laurent silk jumpsuit - has set off a firestorm of criticism.

I gotta say, I think the style is pretty cute on her. The bodice is smashing, and the trousers add a daring element. Except there's one glaring problem: the crotch does not fit! Am I right? I wish it had been tailored more closely to her body. So a big NAY on the fit for me, but I'm going to be bold with a full-out YEA on the silhouette.

Now, I personally don't think I would wear this as a full-length jumpsuit, but modify those trousers into a little pair of shorts for a 50s-style romper? I'd be all over it!

So what do you think, readers: yea or nay? Unleash your venom or show some love for Tina Fey's jumpsuit!

Clarks Diamond Heart Shoe: Yea or Nay?

Readers, I had such fun talking shoes with you last week that I decided I needed to do more of these posts! Whenever the seasons change, I go into major shoe-buying mode. I'm trying to be strategic this time around, though, and think about what would really be useful in my wardrobe - rather than just buying every brightly-colored, uncomfortable pump I can get my grubby hands on. I don't own any beige shoes, and these Clarks heels look like they'd be a versatile basic. But, on the other hand . . . is there a good reason I don't own any beige shoes?

Am I veering into fuddy duddy territory? I personally think not, and I'm about 90% set on buying these shoes. But please do let me know if I'm making a fatal fashion mistake!

Also, what are your must-haves in your spring shoe wardrobe? Let's be strategic shoppers together! Look for more of my shoe picks in posts to come - I've got shoes on the brain, people.

The Greta Shoe: Yea or Nay?

Readers, I don't think I've ever felt so ambivalent about a shoe before. Let me explain my dilemma. You see, I'm trying to introduce more comfortable shoes into my wardrobe - walking everywhere in heels is really taking its toll on my poor feet. I love Re-Mix Vintage Shoes, and their 40s "wedgies" have been calling my name lately (just try to say "wedgies" with a straight face).

I ordered a pair of their Gloria wedges in red, which I love, but I don't think they're the comfortable walking shoe I was looking for. But goodness - they're cute, aren't they?

So I seem to keep coming back to the Greta shoe, which is also a true reproduction of a 40s wedge but has a lace-up design.

I look at it one minute and think "Cute! Quirky . . . but cute." Then I look back the next minute and think "Good lord, those are some weird looking shoes." So, which side are you falling on? Weird or cute? Yea or nay?

While you're at it, if you could recommend some cute, comfy, vintage-style shoes to wear with skirts, that would be awesome. What are you into - wedges, saddle shoes, Keds, Chucks? Do tell!

I will now close with a new picture of Henry.

P.S. Just as a follow-up to yesterday's post, I want to again apologize to anyone who took my comments as demeaning to homemakers or stay-at-home moms. It was not my intention at all, it was rather a failed attempt at a breezy tone. Jeff has now forbidden me from "blogging while cranky." BWC - it's a crime, people! Today you'll see that I've stuck to the less controversial topics of shoes and kitties. Who could be cranky while blogging about shoes and kitties?!

Rotary Cutters: Yea or Nay?

{Image from The Purl Bee}

So, I've never owned a rotary cutter and mat. But I'm deeply intrigued by them, and all the accessories that go along with them - the mats and gridded rulers and such. Rotary cutters look terribly efficient (and dare I say fun?) and like they would make such quick work of things like bias strips. Here's my dilemma, though: I wonder how useful they really are to the garment sewer beyond that.

Quilters love rotary cutters for obvious reasons - you can speedily cut your squares or whatever it is you call them. (Please excuse my ignorance, quilters.) But are they really useful if you're just sewing garments? I've only seen one clothing construction book refer to rotary cutters: Built By Wendy's Sew U, which suggests using a rotary cutter to cut out multiples of a pattern at the same time. Which, unless you're starting a little sweat shop or something, doesn't seem like it would be all that necessary for the home sewer, right?

Also, what about the mats? They're rather pricey, especially for the larger ones. And wouldn't you want a big-ish one for garment sewing so you wouldn't have to keep moving your mat around under your fabric?

Clue me in, please. Is there any reason for me to add these pieces of equipment to my already overstuffed sewing space?

What say you to the rotary cutter for garment sewing: yea or nay?