Cambie, Take Two

I loved my first Cambie so much, that I immediately cut out a second! I used a straight neckline this time, and I think I prefer it to the sweetheart. I had this Japanese double gauze in my stash and it was perfect. It's brown with aqua dots on it.

As a brunette, I would have totally avoided this color. But as a pinkhead, I think it's perfect. I've realized that I had very set ideas about what colors I could wear, and it's fun getting to turn my rules upside down. BTW, this pic was taken just after I'd gotten my hair colored and blown out. Hence the smoothness and lack of roots.

 Armpit flap! Sexy!

A couple construction notes. I spent some time making this in the studio, so I didn't have fusible with me. So instead of using a strip of fusible to stabilize the pocket opening, I used a little strip of the fabric's selvage. It worked perfectly! In fact, I think I prefer it to fusible since it's so strong. That pocket is NEVER going to stretch out of shape.

On the inside, I used a Freespirit voile solid in perfectly coordinating aqua as a lining and it is amazing--though, at $14 a yard, not for every project. (See my post about summer linings here.) Again, I added a front facing so the lining wouldn't peek out the top.

Hey, did you notice my shoes? I went for the Worishofer wedges, and OMG. They are so comfy.

In shop news! I got more of this beautiful Ascher mint bow print, which is a miracle. My supplier told me he was out, and then unexpectedly got more! It sold out so quickly last time, and I'm dubious I'll be able to get any more in this color again.

I saved 4 yards of it for myself, and I think it's going to be my next project. I want to make Vogue 8789 with it, since I think the ribbon will form a cool chevron on the bodice. I'll just have to be very strategic with it, so I don't end up with boob bows.

Fruity Floral 40s Chiffon Dress

I found this amazing fabric last week, and immediately bought 15 yards for the shop. Of course, 3 of those yards were for me, ALL ME, readers. Because this has to be one of the best retro prints I've found in a while.  It's a fruit and floral print that veers far away from kitschy.

It has rose bouquets, baskets of cherries and strawberries, lemons, daisies, and basically all of my favorite novelty print motifs in one fabric. To top it off, the chiffon has an open weave mesh pattern running through it, forming a plaid on top of the print. (It's very subtle, one of those little things that makes a fabric special.)

I used Butterick 5744 as a starting point, because I liked the faux-wrap skirt and the neckline flounce. Plus the waistline seam is elasticized, so I knew it would be comfy for summer.

I made a few changes, as you can probably see. First, I added two inches to the hem length. It is super short right out of the envelope, and Gertie don't play that. Second, I omitted the lining because I wanted to play up the sheer nature of the chiffon. I'm wearing a light pink slip to cover up my unmentionables. Third, sleeves! I wanted a more 40s-inspired design, and also to show off the fabric a bit more. I borrowed the sleeve from New Look 6069, eliminating a couple inches of length. It's a puff sleeve so I didn't have to worry too much about pattern compatibility, and it fit right into the armscye of the dress. Also, I made the neckline a bit lower and wider because of the way I attached the flounce--I decided on a french seam at the last moment, which ate up a bit more seam allowance.

A few other construction things: I used the narrow hem on my serger for all the raw edges, in a contrasting ivory color. I like how it plays up the details of the dress, like the flounce.

I used french seams on the inside. I had a brilliant idea (if I may say so myself) about the waistline seam. The pattern calls for you to stitch the waistline seam, then stitch again 1/4" away--making a channel for the elastic. You insert the elastic with the old safety pin trick. I tried it, and was unhappy with how messy the raw edge of the chiffon was. I found myself wishing I could bind the seam allowances. And then it came to me--fold over elastic! I took out the elastic from the casing, and used the fold over elastic to cinch in the waist fullness and finish the raw edges of the waistline seam. (I am so weirdly proud of myself for thinking of this.)

Fold over elastic is basically an elastic binding that can be used to enclose edges of lingerie and other knits. It worked perfectly for this purpose too. I cut the elastic to fit snugly around my waist, folded it over the raw edge of the waistline seam allowances, and stitched it in place with a multi-step zigzag--aka serpentine stitch (though a regular zigzag is fine), stretching the elastic as I sewed it on. I had to first make sure the elastic was evenly distributed by dividing it into halves and matching it to the dress's side seams. Once it was sewn on, I steamed the elastic to shrink it back to size. It worked like a charm, and is so pretty on the inside.

Oh, one other pattern change: the directions called for a small snap to hold the wrap bodice in place, but I just tacked the layers together instead. The snap seemed unnecessary, plus I have an irrational hatred of sewing on snaps.

Perfect with red pumps!

This was a fast project, and the chiffon has a bit of body and was easy to sew. (I have 6 more yards of it for sale, if you're interested. Use coupon code HAPPYWEEKEND for 10% off until tomorrow.)

Hey, speaking of sales! Miss L-Fire shoes have been on sale several places and it's my civic duty to pass the info on to you. I found the Lola mules in navy for almost half off. (The rest of Sole Addiction's Miss L-Fire stock is on sale as well.)

At Anthro, the Casablanca slingbacks in black and red are half off. I picked up the black and white dot. (A very sick part of my mind thinks I should get the red as well, since I saved 50%. I mean, right?)

I resisted the Tease wedges, but they are very cute in navy and also on sale.

Enjoy!

Linings for Summer Dresses and Skirts

Bodice lined in Radiance silk/cotton blend fabric

I've noticed there's some confusion out there about linings--especially what kind to use for summer garments. So I thought I'd share some of my favorites.

First, let's discuss the requirements of a lining for a summer garment: breathability, affordability, fabric characteristics, and easy-care are at the top of my list.

1) Breathability: this is the comfort factor of the lining, in my opinion. I can't tolerate anything other than cotton or cotton blends in the bodice of a fitted summer dress. Even silk gets too sticky for me on a hot summer day.

2. Affordability: if you're sewing with a summer cotton for an everyday dress, I'm guessing you don't want the lining fabric to cost more than the garment fabric, right?

3. Fabric Characteristics: Are you sewing with a stretch fabric? Then you'll need a stretch lining. Is your fashion fabric sheer? Then you'll want your lining to provide opacity. (This is not to say that your lining fabric has to be completely opaque, but that it must add up to opacity when layered with your fashion fabric. Sometimes a slightly sheer lining can make a slightly sheer fashion fabric opaque.)

4. Easy-care: I like my summer dresses to be machine-washable and dry-able  so my lining needs to meet that criteria as well.

With these factors in mind, let's look at some possible linings:

1. Siri. This is a cotton/poly blend that is my go-to lining for summer garments. It's inexpensive, easy to care for, and the low poly content keeps it breathable. It's hard to find, which is why I started carrying it in my shop. I have both lightweight and medium weight, both in black and white. The lightweight is very drapey and airy and feels super soft against the skin. It drapes well with silk fashion fabrics like crepe de chine or chiffon. The medium weight siri has more body, so it works well with more structured garment fabrics like sateen, pique, poplin, quilting cotton, etc. The budget range is $4 to $6.50 a yard.

2. Imperial Cottons: Looking for something like siri but in a specific color? Try an Imperial Cotton. You may have come across fabrics labeled Imperial Batiste and Imperial Broadcloth, often for use in heirloom sewing. They are a 65/35 cotton/poly blend that comes in a rainbow of colors. The batiste is a good lightweight version, while the broadcloth has more body for medium weight fabrics. Here's an online source for batiste and broadcloth. In New York, B&J carries imperial cottons for a good price. The budget range is around $5 a yard.

3. 100% Cotton Voile: If your budget has a bit more room, then Free Spirit's Voile Solids make excellent linings. They wash and drape well. The colors are beautiful and the fabric has a silky smooth feel to it. You can buy them online for around $14 a yard. Here's a good source that carries all the colors and ships quickly.

4. 100% Cotton Batiste or Broadcloth: you can find beautiful pure cotton batistes and broadcloths usually intended for heirloom sewing. They are a bit pricier than blends but make the most sense if you prefer entirely natural fibers.

5. Radiance Cotton/Silk Blends: Another notch up on the fancy scale! This is a cotton and silk blend fabric that is often sold in quilting shops. It has a slippery texture on one side and is opaque. I've lined all sorts of garments with it (including wool skirts) and loved the results. Better for medium weight garments. Fabric.com carries a good selection for $16 yard. Because of the price, I reserve this for special garments.

6. Stretch Cottons: If you use a stretch fashion fabric, you'll want your lining to stretch as well. Stretch linings are hard to find and are usually polyester only, so I recommend looking in the fashion fabric sections. Anything called "stretch poplin" or "stretch shirting" should be a good match. Fabric.com has a bunch of cotton blend stretch poplins for around $6/yard, but I've never used them. Let me know if you have a preferred brand/source!

Keep in mind that you don't have to use the same lining fabric in the bodice and skirt of a dress.  For my blue and white brocade dress, I used cotton/silk in the bodice (for comfort), and silk crepe de chine in the skirt (for drape and slinkiness).

You can choose a more expensive, natural fiber fabric for the bodice and then use a cheaper synthetic for the skirt since it won't be as close to your skin. Or use a medium weight lining for the bodice to provide structure and a lightweight lining for the skirt for easier movement and flow. So many options.

I hope this helps a bit. Please share your favorite summer linings too!

P.S. A quick shop update (ignore if you're on one of those stash-busting fabric diets I keep hearing about--can't say I've ever tried one of those!). I added a bunch of new stuff recently (and will have more next week). I'm giving you lovely readers a discount this weekend! Enter code HAPPYWEEKEND to get 10% off your entire purchase. Expires on Tuesday, 6/18. 

That Fleshy Armpit Bit

A while back, I posted a magazine cover that showed a model from a side angle in a cap sleeve dress. Several people commented that the view of the model's fleshy underarm bit was unsightly. Now, while the angle of the photo wasn't my favorite for showing off a dress, it never would have occurred to me to be bothered by the model's underarm, of all things. I've spent long enough obsessing about various parts of my body, and it never even occurred to me that I was missing a vital part of myself to be disgusted by! So, to catch you all up: this is the part of the body where the arm meets the torso, and there's a little fold of flesh. Mon dieu!

Ever since then, I notice my fleshy underarm bits ALL THE TIME. There they are, just hanging out, being all unsightly.

I can't even get them to go away by distorting myself--no fair!

In all truthiness, I actually quite like those little flaps. I don't actually find them unsightly, unbecoming, or disgusting. I mean, what's the alternative? Maybe some sort of Barbie mutant arm that connects to the torso by plastic peg . . .

What does bother me, is that I'm now aware of the fleshy armpit bits. I scrutinize photos of myself, wondering if I'll be criticized like the model on the cover of that magazine. And I seriously resent having one more part of my body to worry about--like it wasn't enough to obsess over my tummy, triceps, biceps, hips, thigh circumference, inner thigh area, neck waddle, ankles, boobs, back fat, saddlebags, behind-knee area, hairy toes, upper lip, . . . . ok, you get the point.

So, here's my suggestion: can we all just agree, as women, that the fleshy armpit bit is of no concern? That it's normal, not repulsive? That it doesn't need to be covered in shame? Because, seriously, my brain is going to explode if I spend one more second worrying about it.

Or, alternatively, we could decide that it's just the sexiest part of the body ever and flaunt our armpit flaps brazenly all summer. What do you think?

Blue Brocade Day Dress

I finished this dress a couple weeks ago, and finally got to wear it yesterday! Jeff and I went for a little day trip up to Hudson, NY, to do some antiquing. It was a gorgeous day.

The pattern I started with is Butterick 4443, one of those patterns that's been around so long that it's easy to overlook. It's a great basic with a boat neck, princess seams, and flared skirt.

It runs big, so I definitely recommend making a muslin for this one. I made a 14 and ended up sizing down to a 12, and still removing some bodice ease.

I used a really pretty cotton/rayon brocade that was surprisingly tricky to work with.

It has a crinkle texture that has a mind of its own, and a heavy-ish drape that makes it slip and slide off grain easily. The bias portions of the skirt expanded a good 4" when I let it hang over night! I had to do a lot of evening up.

The fabric is reversible, so I made use of the wrong side on some added pockets and an applied waistband.

The pockets are self-lined and then folded down to reveal the inside. I stitched them on by hand with embroidery thread and then added a decorative button.

A few inside details. I lined the top in radiance sateen, which is a lovely silk/cotton blend that feels great against the skin. The skirt is lined in white silk crepe de chine.

I added a facing to the neckline, serged the bottom of the facing, and then edgestitched it to the lining.

The armholes are finished with purchased bias tape that is stitched by hand to the lining on the inside. It's kind of like a mini facing.

I can see myself wearing this one a lot this summer!

P.S. At your request, I recorded another uke video! Ever want to see a pink-haired soprano sing Folsom Prison Blues in her nightie in her sewing room?



P.P.S. I got more stock of some of the fabrics that sold out last week:

Betsey Johnson silk chiffon

Butterfly print silk crepe de chine

Cherry Blossom Swiss Dot 

Mint Gingham

Summer Shoes

Well, it's chilly and rainy today but all I can think about is cute summer shoes to go with the sundresses I've been sewing. As usual, I find my desires very split between the practical and  . . . not-so-practical.

First, on the less practical side, mint green clogs!

Piper Clogs

Now, I know that clogs aren't inherently impractical: they usually have a lot of support and have chunky heels that are easy-ish to walk in. But we're still looking at three inch heels here (even though there's a platform), and are those really going to be the shoes I reach for on a daily basis? More like the shoes I put on to take pictures in and then switch to something comfier for real life. And I have plenty of photo shoot shoes already!

On the very impractical side: Miss L-Fire's Lola mules.

Lola Mules

4 inch platform heels with an open back? Definitely photo shoot shoes. After I picture how glam they'll look with a new dress, all I can see is the vision of myself face-planted after a nasty fall. Because just looking at them makes me feel unsteady on my feet.

Also from Miss L-Fire (my favorite-est shoe brand ever, BTW), a navy polka dot platform pump.

Miss L-Fire Casablanca

Okay, let's talk practical. Flat sandals, right? While that may have a very modern sound to it, flat sandals were very popular as resort-type shoes in the 50s. Check out the shoes on this pattern envelope (a VoNBBS dress I made ages ago; have I really been blogging for four years?!):

So how about something like the Bass Margie sandal: comfy, classic, and inexpensive at $35.

Margie sandal

Okay, obviously they're not as exciting as the prior three shoes. But they're the type of shoes you'll wear to death and also pair well with cute retro dresses.

I'm also really digging these sandals by Volcom (???) that are a steal at $27. Plus: they will more adequately display my foot tats.

Volcom Heavenly Creedlers

Let's now talk about the sure-to-be controversial, vaguely orthopedic "granny shoes" that so many of us love.

Worishofer 562s in red!

Worishofer 562

I also love the Spring Step Breezy in white:

Spring Step Breezy

Lastly, on the practical side: canvas flats. The wear-every-day-until-they're-too-gross-for-words shoe.

The Keds Capri flat in gingham.

Keds Capri

Sea green canvas flats!

Seychelles Head in the Clouds

Lastly, surprisingly cute shoes from Ugg.

Ugg Indah

Okay, I'm on shoe overload. For perhaps the first time in my life, I'm leaning toward making some practical decisions. (Okay, maybe I'll throw a pair of 4-inch-platforms in the mix, too.)

P.S. I don't own any of these shoes (only in my dreams), so can't vouch for them personally, but I did choose shoes with positive reviews on their respective websites, for whatever that's worth.

Are you going practical or no-so-practical with your summer footwear?