Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Quilting Cottons for Garments: Yea or Nay?

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Oooh, here's a good debate! Is any subject more fraught with controversy in the sewing world? This is a matter that people are highly opinionated on, so I'm sure we'll get some good discussions going here. (And I'm sure they'll be very civil, right ladies?)

The general "rule" in the garment sewing world is to never, ever use quilting cottons for garments as they are too stiffly woven and won't drape properly. For those that fear the "Becky Home-ecky" look, breaking this rule is tantamount to cardinal sin.

There seem to be three types of seamstresses when it comes to this matter.

First, you have your fabric connoisseurs who wouldn't touch a quilting cotton with a ten foot pole. They're devoted to lovely garment fabrics and (let's face it) they're not afraid to criticize anyone who uses quilting cottons for garments. 

Then you have your rebels who love to use quilting cottons and aren't afraid to flaunt it. Hey, they're adorable, widely available, and inexpensive. "What's not to like?" these rogue warriors say. (This is often said in a defensive tone, it must be admitted.)

Lastly, you have your voices of reason: the sewists who say that all fabric varies widely and it's largely about the quality of the cotton in question. For these level-headed seamstresses, each fabric must be judged by its own merits, not dismissed as a wholesale group.



Hmm. Or maybe there are four types, the fourth being the sewist who vacillates between these groups depending on which stance conveniently supports her current frame of mind. This fourth type wants to be virtuous, but her morals start to break down in the face of fabulous printed cottons with sugar skulls or birdcages. This would be me.

I've made one garment out of quilting cotton, and I was not struck down by the sewing goddesses. In fact, I rather like it:

Which type of sewist are you when it comes to this matter?

197 comments:

  1. I'd have to settle for number 3. As the old saying goes, never judge a book by it's cover. Or in this case, never judge a cotton by it's label!

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  2. I'm in the 'yea' group. I'm not proud - I'll sew garments out of just about anything! Quilt cotton, upholstery fabric, whatever. All that matters is that I like the fabric and am pleased with the way the garment turned out. Probably the only people who would notice are other sewists, and I don't really know many in real life.

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  3. I have always been a bit confused by this debate - I mean, I have a LOT of RTW clothing that's made from a similar weight cotton that I like!! I work in a shop that sells quilt-weight cotton and so I've made a lot of stuff from it, and I actually like it for a lot of things as it's not too clingy or wimpy! I think it's great for a classic, full skirt style dress. The weight of the skirt gives the cotton a bit of swing!

    It IS nice to do some extras to keep it under control - edgestitching/topstitching and pressing ruffles so they're not out of control come to mind - but in general it's a comfy fabric to wear and easy to sew. I like it for skirts and dresses, not so much for shirts as I don't like my shirts to have that much body.

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  4. I'm in the third group. If a fabric works for the garment I'm wanting to make, that's the fabric I'm going to use.

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  5. I've pondered this many times, but I've never yet tried it. I get stuck, wondering how well it would wash and wear, being that the dye sits on top instead of soaking through (i.e. it has a white back)

    Out of interest, Gerty, how does your quilting cotton dress hold up in the wash compared to "proper" dress fabrics? Does it hold its colour as well?

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  6. The main thing is whether it will suit the particular project, surely? I mean, if you want a flowing, drapey fabric you probably won't get a good result from a quilting cotton, but then you probably wouldn't make a tailored jacket out of silk jersey, either! I'm not really sure how being 'quilting' cotton suddenly makes it automatically different from other printed cottons anyway, and there seems to be a fair bit of variance within the quilting ranges anyway. I made a jolly nice a-line skirt (that I somehow lost and am still annoyed about) out of some gorgeous red-rose-all-over-print quilting cotton, and don't see why I shouldn't have.

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  7. I've just sewn my first garment, a skirt, and I made it out of quilting cotton. It turned out perfectly nice! I guess it depends on the fabric, you really need to feel before you buy. Some of the more "dense" fabrics are probably not great for clothing, but the lighter cottons are absolutely great for breezy summer wear.

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  8. i don't really care for sewing with quilting fabric for the most part, although i will point out that there are definitely patterns that benefit from the partial stiffness of the fabric - the parfait, for example.

    my biggest beef with quilting cotton is that most of the prints tend to look like they belong on a quilt. they are too busy, too small, the colors are too garish, etc etc. of course, there are exceptions to every rule. i don't feel that vintage quilting cottons look quite as "quilty" as modern-day ones, but maybe that's just because i'm used to seeing everyone wearing the same alexander henry skull print sheath dress or whatever.

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  9. I am the yea team. I love the prints and cotton is so easy to sew...

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  10. LOL I had no idea this was so controversial or that there were so many camps. I'm currently in the nay camp, only because i've done this a few times and I just don't like the feel/drape of this fabric in a shirt compared to a shirting fabric for example. Might work ok for a light summer skirt and yes not all quilting cottons are created equal - tell that to the fabric snobs! Really, snobs about fabric? Shouldn't we be glad we have so many options these days? I know I am and in all fabric types.

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  11. I sew garments all the time with quilting cotton! I guess I would come from the group that says, why not?! I agree that not all garments can be made from it but alot can. It is cheap, and cute and available everywhere. I wouldn't make an evening gown from it, but a nice summer dress, something casual, why not!

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  12. I'm of the opinion that if the fabric works for the project it's a contender. I guess that puts me in the third group.

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  13. I’m probably a bit biased since I do much more quilting than sartorial sewing these days, but I am a #3 sewist.

    There is a huge! variety of "quilting cottons" and a growing number of quilting cotton designers/houses who are releasing their designs on more apparel-type fabrics like voile. Just comparing a small selection of quilting fabrics I have, some drape wonderfully, some are good for nothing but quilting/crafts, and some could work just fine if used in the right garment.

    That said I can be definite nay: any quilting fabric that comes from a box craft store, because it is usually stiffer, looser, and not as well printed/colorfast. You’re begging for issues there.

    "Quilt shop quality" printed cottons really are almost a whole other type of fabric.

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  14. Since almost all I can find locally is quilting cotton, I have made many many clothing items with it. (Lovely stuff like Denyse Schmidt, Kaffe Fassett, Amy Butler, Joel Dewberry, not the el-cheapo big box fabric store stuff.) For day dresses, the heft and drape work perfectly well. I daresay my Grandmother probably had many a cotton day dress in her chifferobe!

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  15. I originally started sewing with quilting cottons, and am continually tempted by them.

    What stops me from trotting happily over there is how those cottons have worn. Or perhaps "not worn" would be the better term. They fade, the pretty printed patterns aren't on-grain, and my latest 50s wrap dress just ripped at the button.

    Perhaps I expect too much? But I wear my clothes hard, and I expect them to stand up to a beating. QC just ... doesn't. So I sigh, and walk on.

    That said, I'm probably type 3, because if the cotton was nice enough in quality, the side of the store it was on wouldnt' stop me -and I do use them to make garments for my 7yo daughter.

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  16. honestly, until i started reading other sewing blogs, i didn't know sewing garments with quilting cotton was one of the seven deadly sins of sewing. i have made garments from it, so i'm not against using it, but intentionally seek it out. so i'd say i'm a number 4-type sewist with fabric snob tendencies.

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  17. I'm a beginner, and I don't have a lot of money, so quilting cottons make sense for me at this point. I would DIE if I made something with $25/yd fabric, and I hated it because my skills aren't quite up to par yet.

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  18. I'm a new sewist and somewhat on the fence. I sewed my very first garment, Colette's Sorbetto, with quilting cotton. It was cheap and I loved the pattern. But I have to admit it's a bit too stiff for that pattern. I'm making it again in a garment-weight cotton and I think it will look a bit better. Still, I wouldn't rule out quilting-weight cotton depending on the project.

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  19. It seems to me that since the early days of sewing, quilts and bed coverings have been made from dressmaking fabrics!!!!
    The big problem I face, here in the middle of the country, is that "quilting fabrics" have bullied thier way through fabric stores. Fine fashion fabrics, linings, and quality notions are now the province of the internet and shopping vacations.

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  20. I think the anti-quilting cotton people are snobs and I don't put much stock in them. Today I am wearing a wonderful pencil skirt made from the Day of the Dead fabric you feature! It's lightweight and drapes just fine. If it fits the pattern and the sewist's personality, who cares?

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  21. I have never had any luck with the cheaper quilting cottons...which is sad because they are economical and do come in many neat patterns & colors... maybe I just haven't found the right garment for the type... ???

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  22. It seems to me that the appropriateness of quilting cotton for garment sewing is dependent on two things: The hand of the cotton (which can vary) and the design of the garment, which may need something with more drape, or which may work well with something with a stiffer hand.

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  23. I think I fall in number 3. It all depends of the quality and general caracteristics of the fabric and what you want to do with it. I have found some cotton labeled quilting cottons that are surprisingly soft and drapey.
    I tend to dislike people who are against something just because conventions say it.

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  24. I'm a #4 definitely. I generally try to stay away from it, because I can't trust myself to not get overly excited about a print and forget completely to check the drape etc. Really, it's all about comparing the fabric to the project regardless of what department you shop in for fabric.

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  25. I use whatever I like - if I like it I use it.

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  26. I sew most of my clothes with quilting cottons because of the cost. Also there is some really cute prints out there. :)

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  27. Third camp as it's very dependent on the garment and the fabric. I use quilting cottons for button up style shirts because the stiffness works there. I'll use it for the *occasional* shell blouse, but it's very print specific.

    To me, the Becky-home-ecky is more a matter of print choice than drape (assuming the garment calls for that type of hand). Novelty prints scream homemade (I agree with lladybird on the skull print fabric) and tiny florals are all Laura Ingalls Wilder. The polka dots ("shower of hail" my mom calls it) and other patterns more traditional to clothing work better if you want your clothes to read RTW rather than DIY.

    If you see fabric and think "OMG, that's soooo pretty and cute!" make a tea pot cozy and some matching mug rugs. It'll get cute out of your system without having to wear it. My tea pots generally don't have much fashion sense.

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  28. I would say 'yea'. The third group is most likely where I would place myself. If the quilting cotton works for the garment and if I find myself wanting to use it I will.

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  29. YEA! for any fabric that sparks inspiration whether it is found in the quilting, home decor, or sale bin! I'm also confused as to why this is even debate worthy, if it works why not. Sew be it ;)

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  30. Lovely patterns - but I do find them a bit thick for shirts. Have recently used Anna Maria Horner voile, and that was a good weight. It would be lovely if I could get the patterns without the stiffness!

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  31. I'm a yay overall. Quilting cottons aren't ideal for everything. I wouldn't use it for a drapey 30s dress. I would use it for a sundress or a sheath. It sews nicely but does wrinkle. B&J fabrics here in NYC carries a bunch. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me!

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  32. Like you said, it depends on the quality- Amy Butler's prints, for example, are printed on such beautiful smooth fabric with a great drape, I wouldn't hesitate to use them (and have, many times!). And for kids' clothes? Absolutely quilter's cotton- cheap, colorful, holds up perfectly well for the short amount of time they'll fit!

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  33. I go for cheap, cheerful and quality. And most of the times I get all three :)

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  34. I think it all depends on what your project is. The main issue with quilting cottons is generally drape, so if I'm making something where flow isn't important (corsets, dirndl skirts) then why not play around a little? And when it comes to projects where drape IS important, selecting a fabric comes down to more than just quilting or non quilting anyway. Garment fabrics very as much as the garments they will be made into.

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  35. I'd say it's an issue to be judged on a case by case basis - there are so many factors to consider based on the garment in question. I have a sundress made from a quilting cotton that I absolutely love! But for a something like a blouse, I prefer other fabrics. I say, if you're sewing for yourself, why not use what works for you?

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  36. Yea! If it works for the garment in mind, I will use it. I've made dresses, corsets, skirts, shirts and loads of baby dresses using quilting cottons. For me the variety of prints outweighs the fact that it's not its intended purpose if it will do the job well enough. Agreed, some quilting cottons can be unsuitable for dress wear though as quality, weight and weave can vary so much, but the majority work nicely for so many projects!

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  37. It depends on what your making. For hospital uniforms... YES. For a blouse that will get layered.... Yes. For a quick summer dress... Yes. For something fancy, an interview or a date? No.

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  38. I still wear a Aline skirt made 8 yrs ago with quilting cotton and it is OK, it serves its purpose. I use it all the time for my wee ones, cute, cheap, cheerful - I agree if you want drape etc its no that good - but I have to say I love the variety of prints.
    Is Koka fabric QF?

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  39. I'm the 3rd kind hands down. I have used quilting cotton for some things for myself some of which were better then others. I use a good bit of it for my dds clothes but she is only 3 and love a character print. I really think it depends both on the pattern and the fabric.

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  40. I must say, I'm the type to second, third and forth-guess my fabric choice even years after I've made something. Quilting cotton only adds to this insecurity, as I know people in the first grouping...or do I? My mom and sister were helping me clean out my closet recently when one such garment came into question. They said they loved it and I was so surprised - a quilting cotton turned Easter dress years ago! Maybe it's all in my head. I tend toward the 3rd group in my early stages. I have recently made a top and a skirt from quilting cottons which turned out really wonderfully, so maybe I've finally hit that sweet spot of successful fabric-for-project match-up ability!

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  41. Holy moly! There is a debate about this? If it's fabric, I'll make something out of it. I can find a lot of fun quilt cotton where I live and if I want a skirt made of it, why not? I have an awesome cowboy skirt (still looking for the boots to match). And skulls! And stripes! The cotton has worn well, it washes fine (I don't machine dry my homemade clothes) and they keep on going. So if you can sew it, why not?!

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  42. I refuse to use any fabric that has even a drop of polyester or acetate. This means that most fashion fabrics are out. Almost all of my summer dresses are quilting fabrics. However, I tend to use higher end "novelty prints" by Micheal Miller and Alexander Henry. It really does depend on the garment design. A quilting cotton is perfect for a 50's shirtwaist that needs a crisp collar and pleats, but would not work for a cowl neck or bias dress.

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  43. No one has any business telling someone what they can and cannot sew with. That's one of the reasons we sew, isn't it? Who cares if it looks a little home made? That's due to the skill of the sewer, not the choice of fabric. Not all of us have the same goals. My clothes may be home made, but at least they're well-made, one-of-a-kind and not made out of the horrid fabrics most store-bought clothes are.

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  44. I'm in category 3--but then I don't get passionate about most fabric deadly sins. Many quilting cottons are printed on delightfully, smooth, light and seemingly drapey cotton. Alll of my daughters summer skirts, dresses and shirts are from high quality quilting cotton (low qual, wrinkles too much, and fades and pills too fast). I have been able to tell when something isn't light or drapey enough after the fact. So makeing her stuff helps me figure out what does and doesn't work as a garment.

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  45. Well, I don't think cotton fabric was designated just for quilting until the 80s maybe? Quilting came out of the pioneer days when they used feedsacks and old clothing to make blankets. Now you can buy whole lines that coordinate just for quilting but that doesn't mean you can't make clothing from it. I began sewing in the 60s and I sewed with cotton fabrics but fabric was more clothing oriented then I think. What I DON'T like about it now is that you have to finish the seams well so it washes well. The seams come out easier than in a sturdier fabric, and lastly the worst. It has to be ironed after washing. A huge negative for me. But I really think you do what you want.

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  46. The first sewing project I ever made at home was quilting cotton; our local big-box fabric store sells some really hideous polyester for horribly high prices, and I hadn't discovered internet fabric yet. Honestly, I don't wear that dress so much because a combination of thick, heavy cotton and not yet knowing how to do a square shoulders adjustment make it a really sweaty garment for my climate. I don't see any reason not to make garments that should have some body out of quilting cotton; my main objection is that it's more expensive than the $1.99 cotton shirtings I usually sew with.

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  47. Most of the time I don't care for quilting cottons just because I don't like the prints in garnments for me as an adult. But...... every once in a whole lot of a while I do meet a print I like and if the quality of the fabric is right I might get some to sew a quick skirt or something.

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  48. I think there's a fifth group : the seamstresses with no quilting culture (it's not half as popular in my country as it seems to be in US) and didn't even know there was such a thing as fabric before starting to read foreign sewing blogs!

    How stiff is quilting fabric, exactly? because it can't really be stiffer than denim _ so what would be wrong with denim-friendly projects, as an example? OK, maybe I'm a type 3 in disguise...

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  49. The fabric should dictate the form! If you like the fabric and it suits the pattern, I use it. Good quality quilting cotton is just like other good quality sewing fabric.

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  50. I'm definitely a Type 3. Hey, sometimes a stiffer, less drapey fabric is what a particular pattern needs.

    One use I really like quilting cotton for is lining tailored garments (suit jackets and suchlike). The cotton looks, feels, and wears better than that ghastly poly/acetate stuff. Plus it can be fun to hide a cute print inside a serious jacket.

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  51. I made a 50's looking dress from a Vogue pattern out of a quilting cotton because I wanted navy with polka dots and it was the only cotton fabric I could find. The dress has a very full skirt (it took 5 yards of fabric plus 5 yards of lining) and it turned out grogeous. I have never worn it without getting lots of compliments often from complete strangers. Here is a link to a picture of my dress: http://www.flickr.com/photos/63364708@N02/5764594937/in/photostream

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  52. I think I belong in category #4 (wish it was 1!) I only use quilters cotton if 1. it's super cheap and 2. it's a historically accurate wide floral stripe that would make the perfect 1840's dress (I reenact, which gets expensive when no dress takes less than 7 yards of fabric.)

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  53. Most of my garment sewing involves "quilting" cotton. I don't understand how it differs from other any other cotton fabric. I love crazy prints, which generally aren't available in non-cottons. Cotton works great for my climate, it's affordable, it's readily available. I wouldn't use it for a garment that was super dressy or slinky, but for most of what I make and wear, I love it.

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  54. Like most of the others - count me as one in the number three camp. Some of the quilting cottons are super stiff - even the ones in 'quilt shops' and others soooo soft and drapey. The dyes, sizings and grade of the cloth all factor in. If I like the print AND the combo of those three there's no hesitation. I have a closet full of clothes out of wonderful cottons with nary a regret.

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  55. Put me in with the voices of reason. Plain-woven fabrics in a natural fiber are hard to find. Quilting cottons are often of a better quality than cotton shirting sold for garment construction. Plus they come in fun prints, and coordinated prints. When you wash quilting cottons, that "hard" quality usually goes down the drain with the finish that was applied to make them easier to needle for the quilting process. The quilters for whom I sewed tops didn't care what kind of fabric was in the top, so long as they could muscle their needles through it. They hated cotton sheeting because it was so closely woven. They loved poly/cotton pre-printed tops because there were no seams.

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  56. I guess I would qualify for the third category. I am a self taught seamstress & am working towards increasing my skill. It's never been explained to me about NOT using quilting cottons.

    I have used quilting cotton for various projects. Some have been sucesses, some end up getting chucked in the bin or sold at yard sales.

    I am starting to become more discerning about my choices because I have had so many failures.

    Like Marie said, if I fall in love with a print, I usually make an apron or purse with it. Then I can pull it out and love it often.

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  57. I generally avoid the quilting cotton section (I'm not a big prints person and at least around here, the quilting cottons are NOT cheap), but I dove in recently for some craft projects for the kids and was surprised to come out with some light, soft, finely-woven cotton that reminds me more of a batiste or lawn than what I usually think of as "quilting cotton". So my new conclusion is that it really depends on the quilting cotton.

    It also depends, I think, on the look you're going for and your prejudices as a seamstress. Some of us were traumatized by "homemade" clothes as children and can't bear to wear anything that doesn't look storebought. Some of us actually enjoy the unique details, and fabrics, that home-stitching can incorporate. Neither is "wrong" any more than liking "vintage" vs. more modern styles is wrong.

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  58. I sew pretty much with ONLY quilting cottons. Not because I have anything against other fabrics, it's just that I like cotton on my body. It feels good to moi. And the prints express my personality more so than most garment prints. I do use linen as well. Everyone LOVES my crazy unconventional dresses, AND I feel good in them. So there's no harm!

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  59. I land in the third group. I'm a sucker for quilting cottons for all the reasons you stated... and yes, I've had some sewing fails with quilting cotton because they were too stiff for the garment in question... but I'm more careful with them now, and it has been a while since I had a problem.

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  60. I hafta be from the third group. I've sewn several blouses in quilting cotton as well as aprons, shorts, pj's and anything else if I love the fabric. I sew many wearable muslins out of quilting cotton as it's so predictable!

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  61. Here in my place you're glad to find any sort of fabric. You have to order nearly everything (be it fabric or notions) online without a chance of assesing the feel or drape of a fabric, so you take what you get.
    Sure it was strange to see someone make a dress for a girl out of a upholstery fabric, but only because I made a play-tent out of the same. I just could not imagine it to be very comfortable, it being rather stiff and scratchy, but as far as I could see it got a lot of use, so even comfort is relative.

    Plus, most of the fabric that you get around here is for girls. Young girls that is. There is a vast sewing community that uses a lot of these fabrics for grown up girls, but that really is not my cuppa. (Besides I've got two sons, why would I want to look like a five year old girl, right??)

    So quilting cottons are a wonderful option, given the pattern is suitable for that kind of fabric, or if I like the look and feel and drape of the finished garment. That for me is the only point that decides the yea or no.

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  62. Number three for sure. This could be due to a general lack of experience in selecting so-called 'proper fabrics' but generally I think fabric should be selected by texture, drape, and quality. If that means I'm sewing a coat with upholstery fabric - so be it! Sometimes amazing things can happen when you leave the standard conventions behind.

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  63. Funny, the sample you used was actually a fabric I was considering for a dress I'm going to make. I need something that's a little stiffer for an inset waistband.

    I like novelty patterns too much and am still too much of a novice to be comfortable spending a huge amount on fabric.

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  64. I never started sewing with quilting cotton myself but I have to admit it is a great way to engage beginners and kids! I find that some quilting cottons have a lovely richness and depth of colour that makes them great for a summer skirt or top.
    I made one top with amy butler fabric and I have had more compliments on it than anything else I've ever made!

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  65. Haha, you are brave. I think the only more controversial topic is the "wearable muslin" debate. I say go for the quilting cottons. I've made a few things out of them and find the drape to be fine after a wash or two. They're just clothes! Why not make them fun sometimes.

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  66. I'm a #3. I've used quilting cottons for clothing, and they are great for kids clothes.

    I recently bought a quilting cotton (for a quilt), and it had a lovely silky feel, and frankly, wasn't all that cheap. And I thought it would be a great top. When it comes to quilting cottons, often you get what you pay for.

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  67. All is fair game. It's the print and the sizing with in the garment that will send it into the no pile. But if it's pretty and not too stiff, why not. I don't for myself, but why not.

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  68. It's a scary day when I fall under category called the Voice of Reason!

    It's rare that I use a quilting cotton for a garment, especially because those cute prints have so frequently turned out to have been printed off-grain. But I have made a few A-line skirts from quilting cottons and have loved the ability to get perfectly coordinated colors and prints when using more than one fabric.

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  69. Hmm I think i fall into an unlisted category of "sewing with anything that makes me go OOOOOOOOOOOO!" I'm a noob so i didn't know which fabrics to use for what, I was just going with what caught my eye. As I write this, I'm actually wearing one of my quilting cotton creations-- a 1950s sleeveless pencil dress with a peter pan collar. The fabric is rust red with small (not tiny!) wrenches all over it. The fabric is really light and pretty perfect for this NYC summer.

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  70. I'm definitely a number three, but oh man, do I have number 1 moments!!! I spent four years working under the tutelage of the costume designer of my undergrad theatre program who has costumed hundreds of operas and celebrity singers, and she definitely has an eye for quality and detail, especially when it comes to fabric choice, and that has been passed on to me. I think you can take any fabric that is isn't put together with glue and horse hair and make just about anything out of it. Whether or not it's comfortable on your body (or will survive washing) is another matter entirely... :-D

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  71. I just bought a load of quilting cotton for blouses and summer dresses. I bought some for another non-garment project and loved it as it was finer than the polycottons I can usually find in the stores here.

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  72. I use quilters cotton for dresses...I like it, and there is the biggest variety in prints!

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  73. I would like to be in the #1 category (minus the mean disdain for those lovely sewists that use quilting cotton), but the nature of what's available and affordable sometimes dictates otherwise. The truth is that garment fabrics almost always look better in garments. It's just plain true. I would dare almost anyone in the #3 camp to sew a dress from quilting cotton and the same dress from a similar garment fabric with the right steps (underlining, etc.). I would bet $20 that the garment fabric performs better and looks more "professional" on the body in the finished product. Sure, the prints might be a little bit different, but if we have learned anything from Anthropologie and ASOS, its that you CAN find garment fabric in kitschy prints like birds on a telephone wire or running horses or a cityscape - with a lot of effort and perhaps a lot of money.

    However, I fully agree with camp #3 that a refined eye can turn just about anything into a lovely piece of clothing. Its about learning to work with what you have.

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  74. Since it seems no one else has commented on this...I love that dress!! What pattern is that?

    Loving the polka dots too! It's perfect and quilt fabric or not, it seems to drape perfectly on you.

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  75. I like quilt cotton for my bottom half like a skirt but never happy with it on my top half. I just don't like the heavier weight for a top or the way it drapes (or lacks drape). Just personal choice...and my own sensory issues! There are charming prints in the the cottons!

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  76. Having made one of my favourites dresses out of that very birdcage fabric (garnering compliments only last Saturday when I last wore it!), I'll gladly place myself within category 2. Quilting fabrics have so many great prints and I won't be swayed by the notion that they can't be used for clothing... They're not suitable for everything, but I find they work perfectly for those dresses and skirts that require a bit of body. That said, not all quilting cottons are equal. Some are really thick and densely woven and don't drape well at all, whereas others drape very nicely indeed. I don't get the category 1 snobbery that exists against quilting cottons...

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  77. I started out in the 2nd group and have to admit that if it weren't for quilting cottons I probably wouldn't be sewing the way I do today. That said though, I noticed a little later on that my love for the prints proved overwhelming and my wardrobe started to look a little nuts and "homemade." So a few years ago, I made a switch to camping in group 3.

    However, I'll admit that I'm also surprised that people say they don't notice the difference in a quilting cotton and a cotton that was intended for apparel. I do. I've yet to come across a quilting cotton that drapes as well, has the sheen of, or wrinkles the same as a cotton that was made for apparel. It's just not the same. The short staple fibers that quilting cotton is woven from just don't allow it. Still, I think its usable for certain garment projects and shouldn't just be left to the quilters. Now if only those quilting fabric designers would design some apparel fabrics too....

    xoxo, Sunni

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  78. Woe is me.
    The quilting cottons have taken over the world.
    To find natural fiber garment fabrics is a constant quest to find that needle in the haystack.

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  79. I have made several garments with quilting cotton and had varying levels of success (many of them are posted on my blog). I find that quilting cotton works for me with casual skirts but if I try to do tops or bodices it doesn't work out well. I have had great success using quilting cotton for girls summer dresses that have a good bit of ease in them.

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  80. I've definitely sensed a bit of sewing snobbery in the opinions of those in camp #1 in a few of the comments here...be it fabric snobbery, snobbery against novelty prints, or sewing snobbery. I guess I was ignorant to the fact that this was even a debate!

    I like cotton. I don't really care much for silk or slippery fabrics, knits (except tees) or man-made fabrics. Not because I don't like to sew with them, but because I just don't really like to wear them. Almost all of my vintage and modern wardrobe is cotton, so I mostly choose to sew with what I like to wear best: cotton.

    So that being said yes, I've sewn with quilting cotton! I just finished an awesome sundress in it! I love prints in general and while when in my fabric hunt I look for 'shirting' first, I often am sadly disappointed with the boring prints or the shades of solids, so I tend to look for other types of cotton, which sometimes leads me to quilting cottons. I have found they wash and wear well and get better over time. Of course as others have said there are quality differences, and you have to know when the fabric would be appropriate for the project, but isn't that the same for any fabric? I've gotten cotton voile that was thin and sheer yet stiff and crunchy even after washing (!) and cotton voile that was like buttah. So that all being said, I definitely wouldn't use it for all projects, but you wouldn't use any other type of fabric across the board, either.

    What I REALLY wish is that more great fabric designers (like Anna Maria Horner) would get behind lawn or voile or shirting for those of us who love cotton but also know sometimes you need/want a lighter weight fabric!

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  81. Your perception of the level of controversy (though clearly somewhat tongue-in-cheek) may be out of proportion with the reality in the rest of the country where it is much (and sometimes much much) harder to get ahold of anything other than quilt-weight cottons. I mean, what's a Garment District?

    The internet brings some choice in apparel fabric back to the midwest, but it's still hard to buy when you can't see the bolt (or is that just me?).

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  82. I adore a lot of the prints in quilting cotton. However, I don't like using cotton in general because it wrinkles so much. Are there any tricks to dealing with this?

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  83. Don't know if you need another comment, but here's my two cents' worth. It's the weight of the fabric that determines its suitability for a particular garment, and "quilting" cottons work beautifully for a number of garments - lovely summer skirts, for one. Can't beat the choice of wonderful prints with this fabric. And where is there a label on the fabric that designates it as "quilts only"?

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  84. I'm of the third type. I love luscious, luxurious, expensive fabrics, and I love to use them. But let's face it, they're not practical for everyday wear. How many ballgowns and cocktail dresses does a girl need (this girl, I mean)? Very few. I also happen to love quilting cottons for their vast variety of prints and colors, especially the designs of Amy Butler and others of her ilk. They make adorable dresses, and the patterns make me just as happy and drooly as a gorgeous silk. Just in a different way. Plus, they're very easy to take care of, and they're relatively inexpensive. QUality varies, but as with any purchase, you just have to do your homework, test it, evaluate it based on your own standards and cross your fingers.
    Nothing I make is going to look RTW or couture, anyway, whether it's silk or cotton. In fact, I kind of like sewing clothes that look "home-sewn", not in that the quality is lacking, but in that they're so unique and expressive of my personality, they can't be anything BUT homemade.
    Mine is the only opinion that counts for my personal sewing! :-)

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  85. I'm in the third group. I think you have to consider the silhouette and pattern when choosing to go the quilting cotton route. Some quilting fabrics are just far too stiff for details like tightly gathered skirts,puffed sleeves, etc. The fabric's hand--no matter if it's for apparel or quilting--has to be harmonious with the overall design of the garment so you have a successful piece in the end.

    I've used quilting cottons on the past for a handful of garments, and I do haven't been smitten by the sewing gods. lol. But I don't tend to veer towards that category first, unless it's a silhouette that I think would be compatible with quilting cotton and there is a print that caught my eye. (Which there are loads of!)

    I think really at the end of it, it's about educating yourself and learning what suits what. Which is what becoming a better seamstress is all about after all, right? ;)

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  86. I've never really considered this topic, since I figure if I like the pattern I'll make something out of it! =) And it's true that some of the cutest patterns tend to be quilting cottons. But if you were to prewash it in hot water wouldn't it soften the material a bit? In any case, I'm generally a purist when it comes to choosing fabrics and almost always choose linen blends or cotton or silk (no rayon for me! Which of course means that I've learned to live happily with wrinkles - such is life)... the quilting cottons in my fave fabric shop are imported from the US (!!!) and are therefore way too expensive.

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  87. I've never really considered that, I use quilting cotton all the time. I just use a weight that's close to what's called for in the pattern.

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  88. I mostly do costume sewing, and for that, I'll use whatever works well. I've used upholstery fabric to make a Japanese hakama (traditional men's pants) and an 1840s day dress with quilting cottons. I tested it to make sure it had the drape I liked first, but in both cases the pieces turned out beautifully.

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  89. Hmmm. Even when I first started sewing I avoided the quilting cottons, but I think I may be in camp #3 today. I had the good fortune of finding and using good quality garment cotton (it had a lovely sheen, nice drape, and yet was thicker than most quilting cottons, but still very soft), so by comparison I can see how quilt cotton can be considered lacking. For those who were asking about the "stiffness" - part of it comes from the weave of the fabric and the fibers used, but often times I find that the pattern on the fabric feels like it has been painted on top of the cotton, which adds to the stiffness. I would almost worry about the design cracking and splitting through wear and wash.

    Aside from the whole quality debate, I am not often one who likes to wear prints, so I am not really tempted on that count either. On the other hand, I am located near stores where the flatfolds of $1.50/yard quilt cottons seem limitless, so I can see the price appeal. I think quilt cottons could be great as a summer skirt or a nice summer dress, and I have totally been using them for structural support in my other projects. I think if people like to sew and wear quilt cottons they should go right ahead. I don't know that I would be joining them any time soon, but that is my personal preference. I think the trick to wearing quilting cottons is using the right print in the right scale for the right pattern. But then, that is the trick for any project, regardless of fabric, isn't it?

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  90. I'm definitely type 2 or 3. I have made a few garments with quilting cottons and I love them. I love the variety of prints, especially flower prints get me every time. I can hardly pass them by.
    I wouldn't sew something that requires a flowing, soft, drapey fabric with QC, of course, since they tend to be on the stiffer side of things, but exactly this quality makes them perfectly suitable for other projects.
    I don't see the point in rejecting QC for garments just because they're labelled as quilting fabric. That's a degree of fabric snobbery that I can't understand (even though I am quite a fabric snob when it comes to fiber content).

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  91. I love using quilting cottons for clothes! Of course, I also loved Little House on the Prairie growing up, so I have a thing for calico. The variety of colors and prints available is incredible, make cute skirts and dresses for both me and my daughter, and are inexpensive if you can get them on sale. I don't have a large sewing budget, so $4/yard is about my limit.

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  92. I'm going to say that I find myself in the #3 position most of the time. I make a lot of clothes for my kids and there are many patterns that work well with 'quilting' cottons. And as you point out, there are lots of wonderful prints out there these days that are just too cool to resist. And as a someone who makes quilts as well as clothing, I frequently buy cotton prints that I like because they would work equally well for a child's garment as for a quilt.

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  93. While I don't often sew garments for myself using quilting cotton, I use it for my kid's clothes all the time. Quilting cotton generally has cute patterns my kids love, it is cheap enough to justify sewing for my kids rather than shopping at the local big box store, and it stands up to their playing until they grow out of it (and often longer).

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  94. Ha! Just the question I was asking myself today whilst poking about in Joann's. I was looking for a pretty woven print for Simplicity 2409. All their prints are way too bold for me; the pretty, more subtle print were all far too sheer.

    So then I found myself over in the quilting cottons section, lots of pretty prints, but this blouse pattern really needs something with the right kind of drape. I was wishing they had some Liberty of London cottons! (Not to be found in a JOanns, sadly.)

    Years ago when I first started sewing garments I made many a cute top out of cotton calico. The main reason for stopping using quilting cottons in clothing is that they are a stinker to get the wrinkles out of after coming out of the dryer. ;-)

    So, to answer your question, I wouldn't hesitate to use any fabric for any purpose as long as it worked and enhanced the project.

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  95. I used to be dead-set against quilting cotton, and annoyed at how much space it takes up in local crafting stores, but after making a couple of really lovely peasant skirts out of nothing but muslin, I got to wondering about quilting cotton.

    This spring I really wanted to make a polka-dot sundress with a fitted bodice and full skirt, but couldn't find any good polka-dot fabric locally. I didn't want to drive into LA or order online for just a sundress, so in my frustration I headed over to the quilting section of my local Jo Ann's and started touching all the fabric there. A lot of it was stiff and thin, but some of it felt like it had potential, if only I could get the sizing starch out of it...

    The other thing that's always bothered me about quilting cotton when it comes to sewing garments is that the patterns are just printed onto white fabric usually, so no matter how cute and colorful the pattern is on the right side, the wrong side is white. Or at best, a faded out version of the right side. Any time the wrong side shows, it just screams "cheap quilting cotton", which drives me nuts.

    But as I was looking through all the quilting cotton, determined to make a dress one way or another, my plans were further frustrated by the fact that with all the prints, they *still* didn't have the look I wanted -- black fabric with tiny red polka-dots. What they did have was black with tiny *white* polka-dots, and the dreaded white wrong side. And then inspiration struck. Quilting cotton is 100% cotton (unlike a lot of the so-called fashion fabrics Jo Ann's carries these days ;P ), so it'll take dye no problem.

    So I bought a couple of yards of what looked in the store to be really ugly, white on one side, black with white dots on the other side, stiff, starched, thin quilting cotton, and a packet of iDye in red. I took it home, washed the fabric three or four times until it started to really soften up, then let it sit in a dye bath for a good hour.

    What I ended up with was delightfully thin summer-weight cotton, with body but not too stiff, black with red dots on the right side, and bright red on the wrong side. I sewed it into a cute little sundress with black top-stitching. I can't wear that dress without getting complements, and I know no one else is going to have fabric like that. And any time a breeze comes along and flips the bottom edge of the skirt a bit, the bright red shows for just a moment. I love that, and it wouldn't have happened without quilting cotton. ;)

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  96. I hold advanced degrees in Clothing & Textiles and work in the industry.
    As a rule, quilting cottons do not have the right hand for garment sewing.
    However, I have seen some high quality quilting cottons that drape almost like a lawn and are great for garments. French General is usually of this quality.
    If you are making a couture garment, no quilting cottons. If you are doing Wal-Mart sewing, it really doesn't matter.

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  97. I think I am a seamstress "all terrain" but maybe depends on the model chosen fabric for clothing is fine, maybe I am a seamstress in the third group ....

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  98. I started sewing about 25 years ago and was taught by a strict aunt and grandmother that certain fabric goes with certain things. I'm a quilter and I enjoy sewing clothes. I guess my fear is making a shirt or something out of quilting fabric and then being camoflouged when I sit on my bed. But then again, I guess it depends on the print...but I would have a really difficult time deciding to use a quilting fabric for clothes.

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  99. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  100. Some of us can't afford to pay "couture" prices for fabric or for finished clothing; that's why we sew in the first place. My goodness, talk about negating someone's creative expression and financial realities...

    I don't think you can buy Kaffe Fassett, Amy Butler and Anna Marie Horner in Walmart.

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  101. I will use whatever I feel is best for a garment, granted quilting cottons don't hang right for some garments but they're fine for others, as pointed out by some, some of us don't have excessive cash and quilting cotton can be the answer

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  102. What a timely discussion! I am using quilting cotton for a blouse right now...I have never used it for a garment before but I needed an interlining for a voile I am using and its relative stiffness compared to the fluidity of the voile is really working out for this project. I sort of like the contrast of the two cottons.

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  103. I will use any fabric that does the job I'm looking to get done. As long as the fabric will drape the way I want it to in the finished project I will use it.

    I've made many garments from "quilting" fabric. They make especially nice vests, I find.

    Besides, I don't know any other seamstresses, so who would know the difference?

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  104. I don't have much money so quilting cotton can be a great alternative to more expensive fabrics. Plus I can't help but be sucked in by the lovely prints, ooo is that cherries and ice creams....

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  105. I think that quilting weight cotton is fine to use. Amy Butler, Michael Miller, Alexander Henry...all beautiful designs on quilting weight cotton. Obviously if you want something light and floaty then QC is out, but for hard-wearing day dresses and skirts I think why not!

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  106. I'm in group 3. See, I'm a quilter, too, but I sewed apparel first. And while some quilter's cottons have sizing in them that makes them stiff, not all of them do. And print sizes vary, and you can get *any* pattern, not just kill-me-with-cuteness. I'm also of the opinion that the size of the print should go with the size of the person wearing it. I mean,you shouldn't make a baby dress out of a huge print!

    The main problem with quilter's cotton as apparel fabric is the same as with any 100% cotton--maintenance afterwards. They wrinkle horribly, so they require steam pressing afterwards.

    Certain brands of quilters' cotton are better than others. Moda, Northcott, and any of the other designer labels tend to avoid the worst of the sizing. My opinion is that a lot of the fabric out there is only labeled so that they can charge more!

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  107. This is a very US-centric debate. Here, a good quality craft cotton is around $35m (about $28US) and so a lot more expensive than most apparel fabrics. Cost affects perception of quality. And yes there is a massive quality variation - good quality quilt cotton is fine and has good drape, the dyes are well "soaked in" and the print straight and true.
    I have never heard anyone say that these cottons are not suitable for garment sewing. I use them a lot - novelty men's shirts, smocks, skirts, all kinds of summer stuff. Really nice to wear, just needs a lot of ironing as do all cottoms.

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  108. How about category #5: If you are going to sew anything out of quilting fabric - sew a garment. (Pajamas are fine. If you can make a dress or a shirt, celebrate)

    Because come on, what is this whole quilting thing anyway? You buy special quilting fabric, just so you can cut it up and sew it back together?

    I am with Auntie on this one. Real quilting about re-cycling old clothes and leftovers from garment projects.

    And before anyone can try to persuade me of anything, my fingers go in my ears and I say la-la-la-la-la.

    And finally (perhaps this really aligns me with the 4th category, as I prefer to change opinions on a whim) I have sewn a really cute quilt and I have bought Anna Maria Horner and Amy Butler and Heather Ross fabrics becuase they are so stinkin' cute. I made the Color Wheel Quilt from a stack of fabrics purchased from Purl Soho. so yeah....

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  109. Firstly Great Dress! I don't like to debate so have never joined this one. I have always felt it is about being creative and about design. If you love it, if it will make the type of garment you want, then use it. The same discussions happen with knitting and I ignore those too. You just make a judgement call based on what your needs are for that garment. Nothing is that black and white for me, it is about getting the look I want.

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  110. Funny, many people on this site state that quilt cotton is a cheap alternative for a beginner. I am a beginner but I have the impression that here in germany the opposite is the case. I was often tempted by the design but repelled by price of quilt cotton. But then I am convinced that germany is a developing country in the area of fabrics!

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  111. I tend to fall in category three. Some quilting cottons are of poor quality, or are too stiff for my liking. However, alot of my sewing is making quick shorts for my kids, or summer skirts for me. For these two needs, I feel I can judge each fabric on its own. However, I also like to make lightweight summer tops (I live in sweltering South Florida) and for these tops, I prefer something lighter and drapier, like a good voile or cotton lawn.

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  112. Why am I obsessed with this thread? I didn't know what shirting cotton (not oxford, the light stuff) was until December 2010 when I went to NYC for my birthday. Actually, I went to Mood for my birthday :) . I bought a ton of it and it's amazing and I'm wearing a blouse I made RIGHT NOW that gets tons of compliments and where-did-you-buy-thats. Otherwise, I too live in a bit of a fashion-fabric desert especially when it comes to natural fibers. In the U.S. crafters rule supreme over the fabric stores (see JoAnnes) and they tend to dictate what's in stock.

    Oh and I love a little sewing's comment about why cut up fabric to sew it back together again as a quilt. My mom always jokes that my dad is in the shop making big boards into little boards.

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  113. I guess maybe I'm in the 4th camp? I buy quilting cotton because the prints tempt me and then it sits there because I don't really want to make garments out of it. I do make things for my son and niece, though. Maybe I'll have to actually make a quilt one of these days.
    That said, I think people should sew with whatever they like. I just don't tend to wear garments that work well with the stiffness of quilting cotton. And, as some others have mentioned, I often second guess my print choices because once I get the fabric home it looks too garish or home-ecky.

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  114. Well... I don't really like quilting cottons for garments. I made a dress from an Amy Butler cotton, and while the print was cute it was stiff, didn't wash well, faded, and looked wrinkled in a hurry. I can see them being ok for shirts, but since I mostly make dresses and full skirts they don't work for me. I also don't like crisp garment fabrics like poplin, so I think it's really just the hand I dislike. I also resent how hard it is to find garment fabrics - I have to buy almost everything online, even though we have 5 quilting stores here.

    I do love a novelty print though! If you look hard enough, you can find great prints in cottons, especially sateen (my favorite!)

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  115. I love many quilting cottons and have used them for quilting and for garments. It totally depends on the quality and weave of the fabric. In my experience, quilting cottons are great for skirts, but not so much for shirts/tops/blouses. I would argue that a shirt's drape definitely requires apparel fabric.

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  116. I have sewn garments with quilting cotton. In my experience, skirts are fine, unless it's supposed to be a flouncy skirt. I made a shirt with quilting cotton once, and it's very stiff, thus, making the drape look funky. For skirts, I think quilting cottons can be great, but a shirt's drape definitely requires apparel fabric (unless you want it to look like you're wearing an architectural structure)!

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  117. I'm def in the 3rd group. every cotton has a different weight, hand, drape. Every project has it's own particular needs. So does my budget. IMHO If i can find a cute cotton that feels right in the quilting section why should i pay 3x as much for something similar in the 'shirtings' section just because it's called not on a rack for quilters? /shrug M2C

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  118. I look like a fabric snob, but it's mostly because I'm hella broke: if I pay full-price for fabric in a store, I really can't afford to have it bleed, shrink crazily, rip, or fray into nonexistence. I had some bad experiences with quilting cotton that did ALL these things when I first starting sewing, and I've been scared off it since. I'm sure there are sturdy QC's out there, but I can't quite afford to systematically figure out which ones are worthwhile.

    Linen, sturdy cotton, and even wool don't have to cost the earth: I paid $3.50/yard for some gorgeous linen at Fabric.com the other week, and my last yard-sale haul included tropical wool, linen-rayon blends, and vintage cotton.

    I'm not morally opposed to using quilting cotton in garments (I got a pile at the aforementioned yard sale!), but when I'm buying new, QC doesn't look like a great investment to me. If I'm patient and watch the sales, I know I can get things I trust more for similar prices.

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  119. Oh, I'm a grab anything and use it regardless sort of a person, as long as I like the pattern :o)

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  120. I'm so new to sewing that I wouldn't know what a quilting cotton was if it bit me on the bum! I choose material on a case by case basis, if it's suitable for what I'm trying to make and doesn't look like it'll cause me any technical problems then I'll sew with it!

    Oh well, rules are there to be broken I guess!

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  121. I'm definitely a #3 - go with what works.

    Still, I do have some frustrations with the dominance of the heavier quilting cottons. I was very excited years ago when I heard that companies were releasing reproduction "feed sack" prints, only to find that the designs were printed on the same hard, stiff cotton--not at all the soft, light fabric from which my mother and grandmother made pretty little summer dresses. The only thing even sort of similar is Liberty...and, really, that's not a reasonable price for a simple, casual dress for running around on weekends.

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  122. I'd be the third type if any, but there's a fifth type that I really fall into. The seamstress with a limited supply of fabric available to her.

    We have a grand total of two fabric stores where I live in Australia, one of them tends to stock 'bargain bin' types and nothing else, the other just rarely ever gets truly special stuff in. There wouldn't be a market for it here, I suppose (I'm in the tropics).. I adore reading about all the spiff-deluxe fabrics that you use and get to see. I've always wanted to try shopping online, but the hand of a fabric is so important to me. I'd love to know your thoughts and ideas on online shopping for the fabric-hungry seamstress.

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  123. Ha! Had to laugh when I saw this post because I just received a few yards of that skull fabric in the mail - and I'm makin' a skirt with it! I am new to sewing and have heard that quilting fabrics don't make the best garments, but I figured I'd give it a try. I plan to chalk it up to a lesson learned if it doesn't work out as planned. BTW, LOVE your blog, Gertie!

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  124. I like quilting cottons for garment making. I've made several pieces for myself and they are very comfortable in the summer heat.

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  125. I'm always seduced by the prints, myself.
    Your green shoes are super fab, by the way.

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  126. I quilt and I sew -- and my stash isn't organized around end use. For practical reasons (never say the m*th word!) I've got cottons in one place, silks in another, and linens and wools in their respective places. I definitely organize around color, and I'm pretty picky about what goes into a quilt (I learned the hard way that linen doesn't work in quilts), but I'm completely agnostic when it comes to general sewing. What does matter to me is wearabilty, drape, and durability. Fabrics need to demonstrate qualities that fit them for their intended use. If it fits the bill, I'll use it. Anyone else's opinion had better be a compliment!

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  127. For sure, yea. I've just started making garments for myself. Before that I was quilting and really fell for fabrics hard and forever. My mother always made our clothes and I always wanted to be with fabric, though I never sewed. Once I started buying fabrics, I just started taking apart tops that I liked and making new ones with quilting fabrics in between quilts. I've branched out in voile and lawn because those are sort of quilty driven, too. But, now I'm really finding myself trying to learn more and more about how fabrics fit best. I live in a place that has great quilt shops but only one very high priced fabric store for apparel. I go in there and hunt around and study things. So quilting cottons have led me to the place I think I wanted to be for 40 years and so: Yea, a big yea.

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  128. It's always about the quality of the fabric. I've seen some quilting cottons that have been far superior to what else is for offer in the same store. I don't see how quilting cottons are any cheaper, given some can range up to $30 a metre. I made a vintage shirt pattern with a quilting cotton that was divine to work with, and equally as divine to wear.

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  129. Well there you go I had no idea we sewists were split into groups of fabric. I'll sew with anything if it suits the project.

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  130. I just made my first dress for myself, after paying quite a bit to get a pattern custom made. It's a shape I really like and the idea is to work it up in different fabrics, ending with some Liberty of London.

    I made the first dress with what I think is very decent quilting fabric bought a couple of years ago from a New York store called The City Quilter.

    It's pretty, but it is kind of stiff, especially with the underlining I selected. I've also noticed that it is beginning to attract some lint. On top of that, although I had prewashed the fabric, a little of the color ran on the underlining when I hand washed the dress. The Liberty of London fabric that I bought hand washed last night did not run.

    I think I have enough taste and self-awareness to make good choices in prints, but I don't like garments that scream "Amy Butler."

    That quilting fabrics are generally only 45" wide does not help.

    For me, it's not so much a matter of snobbery, as of time. If there is going to be a bigger risk of wasting time when using a quilting fabric, I'm going to use a garment fabric.

    I have a few more very nice pieces from The City Quilter (if you take a class you get a 15% discount), so I'll see how they work out.

    American Sewer (not Seamstress)

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  131. I would say group 3....I love the pricey fabulous stuff for blouses (on sale, mind you!). I find cottons are great for skirts and non-fitted items like drop-waist or empire waist dresses/skirts. I also find that if you can afford to do quilting cottons on the bias, they do quite well!

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  132. I took a noncredit class at FIT called "Sew Like a Pro." It met on Sunday, a day when few fabric stores are open. The teacher suggested we might want to go to The City Quilter, which is not far away, to buy some batik quilting fabric. There were many beautiful choices.

    But we were making a very basic project: pajamas.

    I don't think anyone I know who sews seriously, which includes some FIT grads, uses quilting fabric for "real" clothes.

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  133. I sew clothing with quilting cotton all the time. I sew my children's clothes, though, not mine. As others have said, there is quite a wide variety in weight and hand among quilting cottons. Cheapo stuff is stiff and scratchy but more expensive stuff is soft and smooth.

    The prints and colors available in quilting cotton are wonderful for children's clothing. I've found that the higher quality cottons really do hold up beautifully. One of my daughter's dresses is never in her closet - she wears it every chance she gets and it still looks good as new. I never put garments sewn from quilting cotton in the dryer. I hang them to dry instead. It really helps avoid the white edges you may get if you tumble dry quilting cottons.

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  134. In the short time that I've been sewing, I've never used a quilting cotton. My first fabrics were chosen by my mother-in-law, and she has super fancy taste, and since that's the way I got started, that's the way I've continued. I'm very curious to read everyone's opinions. It gives me a good base for what to expect or try in the future. Great discussion, all. Though, I wish there were a way to truly have a discussion here. Oh, the conversations!

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  135. If it's a nice quality quilting fabric, ok. It will need ironing, and will wrinkle as it's worn (but the nice quality stuff doesn't wrinkle as badly). I wash it in cold water and hang it it dry so it doesn't get too beat up in the wash. And quilting shops have so much to choose from!

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  136. One day I will likely grow up and start purchasing (more expensive) garment-quality fabrics for my homemade clothes.......But my real dream is to take up quilting! haha...

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  137. Group #2. I love the funky prints and patterns. I recently finished a dress out of quilting cotton and I love it.

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  138. I learned to sew by turning quilting cottons into dresses! : ) Some of them turned out beautifully; others were totally, and then some, Becky Home-ecky. It all depended on the drape and weight of the cotton.

    My current all time favorite casual dress is a large print calico shift cut on the bias. That puts me FIRMLY in group 3. : ) I've learned what will work and what won't, for both print and fabric drape.

    I say if it works, use it!

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  139. Despite my other reservations, I have to say that the quilting cotton I used wrinkles very little. Maybe because it's underlined and because I hand washed it.

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  140. Actually, I am on the side of using 'garment' quality fabric for quilting because who would ever object to having a Tana lawn quilt?

    More seriously, there are some bright sparks here pointing out the 'commercial construction' of a category called 'quilting cottons'; the surface printing that might be a design let-down in a garment where the reverse shows and access/affordability.

    My view - balance design, materials and costs according to the context ... and the prettiest blue was the cheap cesarine of World War 11

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  141. This is amazing - did you ever imagine you'd get this many comments? Apparently it's truly a big deal.

    I laughed at your option 4 since it seemed you were writing it for me, having lusted over birdcage fabric only last week.

    However, I don't usually use the quilting cottons for two reasons that are very different from what the garment fabric purists say.

    One, I have to wash the living bleep out of every fabric I get because of chemical sensitivity, so even the stiffest fabrics get beaten into submission. As a result, I find the quilt fabrics much too floppy and lifeless rather than stiff and difficult.

    The other reason is that they are so expensive! When I can get nice linen blends, silk shirtings, and cotton lawns online for so cheap these days, why spend $8 to $20 per yard on quilt fabrics?

    That said, I'll probably still break down and buy the occasional birdcage print. :)

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  142. We have some very good quilt shops in our area but the fabric is not cheap. I can get better deals on garment fabric online. I do occasionally get novelty prints to sew up pajama pants. Some skirt styles do okay with quilt fabric. I just wish shops carried more variety of cottons-- some pique, viole, sateen, seersucker, twill, lawn etc. and some silk/cotton and wool/cotton blends would be nice too. It is all the same texture/weave which is boring once you get past the prints.

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  143. I am in group 1 but I would never criticize anyone for their choice of fabric. I think that many of the patterns on quilting cottons are very cute but are not something I would want to wear, they look too childish. Where I live quilting fabrics are not really inexpensive but are far more available than garment fabrics. I have to shop online or travel an hour away to a decent fabric store. I am very picky about fabrics because the time I spend sewing is valuable to me and I want to produce the best garment I can. Once you use a beautiful garment fabric you won't want anything else!

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  144. I don't know what the quality of quilting cotton in American is like but Japanese cottons here are ideal to wear for the tropical weather, so I use quilting cottons for garments sometimes. I also pick my fabric according to the need of the design. I just love natural content fabric. Silks, cottons and linens. I hoard it all!

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  145. I love quilting cottons. Love love love. Of course, I wont sew with synthetic fabrics unless absolutely forced to do so, so I'm a weirdo, honestly.

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  146. I suppose I am the voice of reason. I choose what ever material seems to suit my current project the best and fits my budget. Basically I could use anything available but lets face it, the garment has to work for the project, otherwise you might end up ruining your hard work. But quilting cottons are, in my honest opinion, just perfect for light summer dresses or cute blouses. so if it works for your project, then go for it.

    Perhaps they are cheap in your universe, but not here in Finland. Especially if you get them in specialised shops they are rather costly. However they can be sometimes found in cheap sale-piles in fabric shops and then I'm quite happy to dig in. I just recently made 40's style summer dress of one of those. It was lovely two-tone brown cotton with some sort of weird tentacle-flower print :D

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  147. I say if they could make double knit polyester suits, then why not use quilting cottons for dresses--and considering that some of them are around $20 a yard, cheap fabric doesn't have to be an issue. I think its like any fabric really, its how you sew with it that makes the real difference.

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  148. A big YES from me! One of my favourite summer skirts I made two summers back is made out of quilting cotton and it is the happiest cheeriest skirt, and I just LOVE it when it gets warm enough so I can wear it! On sale, you can get the best quilting cottons for mere $'s a meter and when every penny counts, it's a bargain. They just lend a different quality and look to clothes, and isn't that what makes clothes individual?

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  149. Well, this is interesting! Here in Australia, there's no such thing as cheap quilting cotton much - it's far more expensive than dress cottons! It is generally lovely quality, with such beautiful colours and prints, and therefore would be ideal for the right project, but I am more often warned off by price than any other consideration. Interesting how things are so different on this side of the world.

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  150. I am definitely in the 'Yea'-group - under the right circumstances that is.

    I have made a lot of twirly girly dresses for my 5-year old. The slightly stiff fabric helps the dress twirl even better - which in her books is a major MUST for a dress :-)

    As for the washability and colorfastness (is that a word?) of the quilting cottons - I have not had any problems in those areas. The cottons from Moda have survived weekly washings and dryings for 18 months now - thats pretty good in my books!

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  151. Frankly, I have no idea. I'm Czech, and we Czechs have different kinds of fabric when it comes to names. If quilting cotton equals bedding cotton, than I'm group 3, I think.

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  152. Just to add to this enormous discussion
    I agree with all those who point ou that in Europe "quilting cottons" are often more expensive than - for example - good shirtings
    Second, quilters here often use Liberty Tana lawn for quilting.So is it a "quilting cotton"? It is just wonderful for sewing and sometimes used in high end RTW.
    Finally, Ottobre magazine often shows their lovely summer patterns for children made up in "quilting cottons" (Horner for example)- and they look high quality and fashion forward.
    So as always I guess the main point is the need to to choose fabric which suits the pattern in weight and drape and to choose patterns/prints and colours that go with current trends and suit the wearer. Certainly that is what I try to do. Not sure where that puts me in your spectrum!

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  153. I don't know if I'm a three or a four. When I see a cotton print in the fabric shop I don't know if it is an official "quilting cotton". In Israel you say thank you for whatever decent fabric is available! Decent meaning remotely suitable for your pattern, somewhat related to the color/style you had in mind (a vivid imagination and a lot of flexibility is needed!), and does not look like something your great-aunt would wear... :-)

    On the "snooty" side I don't like seeing (or making) a garment whose fabric screams out "WRONG". For example: bad color combination (I don't like seeing black used together with a colorful print for example), too light/thin/heavy, or whatever. It just has to look right.

    More snootiness - I feel queasy seeing ill-matched stripes and plaids, really ill-fitting garments, or just really sloppy sewing. I mean, if you don't plan on matching it up or doing it well, why not choose a plain fabric and a simpler design? So that's my confession... :-) I feel better now that it's out in the open :-)

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  154. I fall into the third camp. I think that quilting fabrics can be a great choice for many skirt patterns and also for beginner sewists. Better to make your mistakes on a less expensive fabric than a high dollar one, but yet still have something wearable in the end.

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  155. I am of the results justify the means camp, whichever number that is. Quilting cottons have come a long way and sometimes they are the opposite of their stiff and cardy rep. They can also be too loosely woven and the lighter colors possibly too sheer. And many others are just medium-weight cottons and the sewist must match the print and fabric to her pattern as she would in buying regular garment fabric. Sewing is one of those crafts that as soon as you say "never" someone else will come along who has done it successfully. I don't often shop in the quilting section, but I do sometimes if I believe it is an option for a particular pattern.

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  156. I have used "quilting" cottons in the past for some projects unsuccessfully. Even more expensive yardage doesn't seem to hold up under wear...and I want my garments to last for years without fading and losing shape.

    My parents-in-law are very active quilters and they have told me time and time again that quilts should be rarely washed and kept out of sunlight. Perhaps that is why I've had the experience I have had with such cottons.

    Personally, I would rather spend the time and money on fabulous sateens, lawn, and shirtings than plunk down hard-earned cash on something that isn't going to hold up.

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  157. I can often not resist quilting cottons, especially when I'm sewing kid's clothing. I have learned, however, that drape is a crucial element to my most successful sewing projects, and because of that the cottons often don't 'make the cut'.

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  158. I had such a crisis of conscience over this a few months ago! I was making a coat to replicate a costume in a movie and had a dreadful time finding anything like the right colour and design, to say nothing of finding something cheap enough for me to afford 7-8 yards on a student budget! Finally I found something that suited - but it was quilting cotton.

    After much deliberation I went for it and was delighted with the results - with a little interfacing in the appropriate spots, it hangs perfectly and had just enough body for the look I wanted. It was very easy to sew and great value for money. For this particular project, it was a great fabric for me :)

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  159. I have to admit that I always wondered the difference, but I pretty much figured it was the stiffness in the cotton. I have to say that I just don't care. I sew a lot for my kids, and quilting cottons have just awesome designs you can't pass up! I don't mean to offend those who keep the lines separated, but on this topic I'm a liberal! Fabric is fabric!

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  160. Being relatively new to sewing, I've often wondered about the kinds of cotton. I didn't realize that the stuff that is so widely available is Quilting Cotton, but it seemed as though they were marketing it towards that.

    That being said, I am trying to go with the suggestions on the patterns and using what seems appropriate to the garment. I'm usually inspired by the kind of fabric to make the garment that would best use it, too.

    I did, just make a skirt with QC and the stiffness was great! It gave the skirt a bit of body and I had the most fun wearing it.

    Ignorance is bliss.

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  161. If people would stick to so-called quilting cottons for 50s designs, the world would be a better place..
    I mean that quilting cottons have some characteristics, mostly crispness, which are very suited to fitted styles. If you use drapy rayon for these, you get a soggy mess. If you use crisp cottons for say 80s bags, you get shockingly bad results. It's OK, matching the fabric characteristics to the style is something you should learn. That doesn't make one kind of characteristics better or worse..

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  162. I will use QC if it's subdued or one color. NO novelty prints, that just screams homemade. I have one pencil skirt made of quilting cotton, but only because 1) I was a poor fashion student at the time and 2) the closest fabric store only carried quilting cotton. It's a very subdued gray paisley print. I also have a plain purple button-down shirt that I made in school out of quilting cotton, again, because I was a poor student and the fabric was cheap. I never wear it.

    I think I basically hate quilting cotton because my mother made me numerous hideous novelty-print skirts when I was younger. I was extremely embarrassed by the fact that everyone knew my mom made my clothes. They looked very "Becky Home-ecky." Ever since then, I tend to avoid QC, except in extreme instances as mentioned above.

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  163. Hmph... the opening of this post is very ironic in retrospect. Apparently, there is something a bit more controversial than quilting cotton!

    I am in a 5th group: I do love quilting cottons, but sometimes I shy away from them for fear of being judged by the first group. There. I said it. I don't usually care about the opinions of others, but I do when it comes to my sewing. Even the comment about seeing the same Alexander Henry skull print stung a bit (even though I think my version does rock: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=64829). I still sew and wear garments made from quilting cotton, but, in all honesty, not when I think I might be around other sewers who might look down on me.

    Otherwise, I'm in group 3. Quilting cotton is great for all the aforementioned reasons and applications. I do think quilting cottons say homemade, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Homemade does not mean poorly made, and in a world where many people can't even sew on a button, wearing something that is obviously homemade should be a point of pride.

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  164. I just wanted to add that my previous post was not in response to the person who posted above me. I didn't see what they said about quilting cottons looking homemade until *after* I posted. I still stand by what I said, but I don't want to to seem like I was being snarky or anything. Everybody's honest opinion is equally valid and worthy of being expressed without censure.

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  165. Just wanted to add my two cents here, as requested. I use "quilting" cottons a lot. I use them for many of the children's garments I make. I find the better quality cottons need little pressing and don't shrink much if at all. The variety is infinite and I can always find something adorable to be worked up with some smocking or madeira embroidery for a child. I also use them for some of my bags, not many, but some. I NEVER use them for adult garments. Their drape doesn't flatter me and it is quite rare that I see it flatter someone else, really. I don't want to sit my butt in a cotton skirt to get all wrinkly but a child who is constantly moving and twirling doesn't have such a problem. I just do not like them for adult garments. Give me a quality cotton twill, denim, batiste, etc. any day, instead.

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  166. I use quilting cotton quite a lot for dressmaking, often it's the only way I can find prints I like, this one is my current fave 'quilt fabric' dress http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/5220577304_ef7969e210_z.jpg oh and yes, it's Japanese. But hey, I used vintage upholstery fabric for the bodice of my wedding dress...

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  167. I LOOOOOOVE quilting fabric since most of it comes in FAB patterns, colors etc. What is there not to like about bold, fun prints that are, for the most part, a great value and look awesome? PRO PRO PRO QF!

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  168. @ Lady Be Good I was the anonymous poster (forgot to type in a name, lol). No offense taken. I agree with you that they say homemade. I guess it just depends on if you want people to be able to tell if you made it. there's a difference between "homemade," and making well-done, nicely sewn garments at home. To me, the ultimate compliment is having people not be able to tell which garments I bought, and which ones I have sewn myself.

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  169. I think I shied away from them because the prints were always a bit twee to me. But then again, I am very cautious about prints in general because in my opinion they can get dated looking so fast, even in RTW, so I stick to solids. However, I'm getting lured by some of those double gauze Japanese cottons... and I've got a stash of Radiance sllk/cotton in various colors--and I can usually only find it at online quilting sellers. It'd be great if it was advertised as an apparel cotton because it's lovely and a dream to sew.

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  170. What about another type of sewist? The one who really doesn't know any different and just picks something based on what she likes and can afford.

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  171. I adore quilting cottons (Heather Ross? That woman is a genius) but admit I have a hard time appropriately incorporating them into garment making. Although I have some garments I've made full-on using them (mostly skirts), of late I've incorporated them as accent pieces - fabric covered buttons, bias tape, a yoke, etc. I find them really fun and whimsical in a way that most garment cottons are not ... generally speaking, I prefer thrifted fabrics that I deconstruct/refashion over garment fabrics, to be honest. I don't really like the prints you buy off the bolt, but that's just a matter of personal preference.

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  172. Craft cottons all the way! I love 'em, and have no qualms at all about using them. Most of my 1950's style dresses are made from craft cottons. The prints are just so much fun! (And, quite frankly, there isn't a huge amount of fabric choice where I live unless you want to make a ballgown or a quilt.)

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  173. My biggest issues with quilt weight cotton is so often the hand is less than lovely. I'm looking for silkiness on par with the perfect cotton/poly blend sheet from your mom's linen closet- bought in 1972, washed weekly for at least several years. That's the texture I'd most like to drape myself in for the ages. In any case, at Sewtropolis we make our class samples out of fabric readily available in the store, and as a result almost everything I've sewn recently has been quilting weight cotton. If you pay attention to the drape and pick the right pattern it can be killer. All quilting cottons cannot be judged equally. But if you fall in love, just make it work! Your imaged 5 gore Elvis a-line skirt doesn't want to hang just so around your knees? That's what underlining is for.

    I'd also like to chime in with my love of home-dec weight cotton, especially drapery weight. No pun intended, I feel like these are ideal for full skirts, weight-wise, and only the cutout finagling with one-way pattern repeats can rain on that parade.

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  174. I have a skirt (burdastyle maria pattern) that I made out of that birdcage cotton. I love it! It drapes well for the skirt and is easy to clean! I've gotten lots of complements, and people are surprised when i said i made it. I think it depends entirely on the garment, the skill of the sewist, and the cotton itself. Not to mention the time taken with all the little parts of sewing. Pressing makes a difference, and when i'm lazy, i can tell.

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  175. when one needs a dress for comic con and the dalek fabric from spoonflower costs so much that the quilting cotton is the only option - this sewer is not ashamed to admit to using it! However, I will probably dry clean this dress just to make sure it holds up.

    really, I've made a lot of clothes from quilting cottons - and I like it just fine. Never had any problems!

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  176. My take? There are no "rules" just as there are no "they" and no "sewing police". Honestly, sew what you want and stop looking for approval or permission from complete strangers on the internet! Part of the beauty of sewing your own clothes is that you make your OWN rules (and change them when the whim strikes) and you create the garments YOU want to wear (and change them when the whim strikes). Why listen to those who feel it necessary to patronize? Never before in the history of clothesmaking has this been a "controversy". I find it laughable that it is now.

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  177. I am in the process of remaking a RTW dress I already own in an identical print, but different (unoffered) colorway. Now I am terrified that a snootier fabric-snob sewist will mistake my store-bought dress for a "Becky Home-Ecky" nightmare. (Can we retire this term? It's really condescending.)

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  178. Nay--although I do agree that the only people who would notice are other people who sew. I've made garments from QC and I just don't like it on my body. I do love my big floppy sun hat that I made from Amy Butler fabric though. It makes me happy.

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  179. I'll add that I got burned badly by QC when I labored over a pair of booties I made for son #1 who was crawling at the time. Despite interfacing them well and questioning the suitability of QC for shoes of any sort, I forged ahead with the QC and they actually lasted a day and a half on my son before the fabric shredded. I cried. It was not a pretty picture.

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  180. I never knew there was an issue with doing it. If not for the quilting cotton there would be no decent selection of fabrics without going online and spending way more than a lower-middle class person can afford. It must be nice to be a snob that pays upwards of $10 per yard, but many of us are not that financially fortunate.

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  181. "stop looking for approval or permission from complete strangers on the internet!"

    angie.a's comment here is wise for almost every topic, not just sewing.

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  182. I believe I am the fourth type too. I just bought or rather had to have powder blue and white paisley that I thought would make a totally awesome sun dress....

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  183. I have used quilting cottons in the past with great results. I do make sure to wash them before using, though, to get some of the stiffness out.

    So far I've done two outfits out of quilting cotton because I LOVED the prints. And you know what? I think they totally rocked out.

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  184. I'm number 4. I do what I feel...at the moment:)

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  185. I'm a QC user. I'm in love with Alexander Henry's fabric. I bought most of my fabric on Etsy since the fabric store we have here in Quebec city doesn't carry print I like. I never thought twice about the type of cotton. I make 50's style dresses so I think QC fits. Here an exemple ;) http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=65713

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  186. Hmmm.... some of these comments insinuate that not using quilting cotton = moneybags and beyond lower middle class. I don't use QC precisely because they are expensive. Waaaay too expensive here in Australia for garment sewing. $25-30 a metre. so please don't judge non QC sewers as being rich and snobby. I'm amazed at how expensive quilting must be these days. I think we get ripped off here in Oz with fabric.

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  187. I will happily use quilters cotton fabric if I like it for garments and find it works just fine for skirts and children's clothes .... plus there is so much choice :OD

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  188. I do use quilting cotton for my clothes. Now, if I were going for something really flowy or drapey, of course I wouldn't. I couldn't, because the fabric doesn't WORK that way.

    But for a well-fitted shell and semi-structured jacket and straight skirt? You BET I'd use it. In fact, I do. I did a SWAP for about $150 in quilting cotton and am just getting around to sewing a new one four years later.

    For a ball gown? Not so much.

    I can get good quilting cotton fairly inexpensively, so that works for me.

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  189. Very nice info... I guess this would help a lot of people to buy the right form of innerwears and other garments.

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  190. I'm nah. I used quilting cotton when I first started sewing because that's what the local fabric store carried and I didn't know better. I was young, the patterns were fun and that was that. No wonder non of those garments turned out. :) but years later I see the err of my way. The characteristic of quilting cotton aren't conducive to draping and the plain weave is not every durable. Plus being a printed fabric not a trough body fiber they fade easily.

    So I'm a no but to each there own.

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  191. Well what do you know! This is my favorite sewing blog (your recent post on pattern ease revolutionized my garment construction process); I should've known that when I googled "can you sew a dress from quilting cotton" that your website would show up first on the list!

    My most recent project is creating a girl-sized version of the American Girl Addy's pink dress (http://eatitforlunch.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/addy-walker-fb.jpg). I've been looking for a pink and white striped fabric that comes close to the doll dress fabric, and the closest I have found is this:
    http://www.etsy.com/listing/96999343/1-yard-sunburst-stripe-in-pink-by-dear?ref=sr_gallery_33&ga_search_query=pink+white+stripe&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=ZZ&ga_min=0&ga_max=0&ga_page=2&ga_search_type=supplies

    A quilting cotton. But, based on the comments and your original post, I think it may actually work well because the dress is supposed to be structured. I'm just worried about it being too heavy - it's for an outdoor play in June!

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  192. When I was a kid my mum sewed a lot for me, and obviously I had no preconceptions about what fabrics could be used for what. I can remember asking 'can I have this' and her answering 'well ... You could' sometimes she would explain how the material would behave differently to what I might expect and I would yay or nay it. Now, learning to sew myself, I am excited about trying as many different fabrics as I can and experimenting with texture and pattern. Of course I shall be using quilting fabrics if I want! :-)

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  193. Hi......i love sewing garments for big company and if the fabric is in good quality...........

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  194. Great read and very Helpful. I am making some pinafores and a-line jumpers for my niece's. I think I am a Yea for these style dresses with quilt cotton. I will just line them with a soft cotton lining. I looked up this question first to see if it was a major, "no, no" for using quilt cotton, but I guess if the texture is good, and the washing instructions meet my needs....they should turn out exactly how I need them to be. I am going for the more boxy, stiff, dress that holds it's shape. Thanks for posting this...I am now heading to the quilt shop which is right around the corner vs. going 20 miles out! LOL!

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  195. I'm a beginning sewer and baffled by the difficulty of finding ANY fabrics that aren't designed for either quilts or curtains. (I'm in the UK.) The choice seems to be either quilting cotton or serious Liberty of London stuff I'm too scared to cut...

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  196. Formerly in the first camp, naively influence by "experts" who know(?) better.

    Then I made a test skirt out of some super pretty quilting fabric I had on hand.

    5 years ago.

    Still wearing it and getting compliments every time I do. So it occurs to me to revisit my proven incorrect mindset and make more. Why did it take me this long to see the light? I have no idea.

    Sewing insecurity, maybe.

    (This yea or nay also applies to home dec fabrics, although I have read that some 'experts' do suggest some home dec fabrics for clothing (and purses).)

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  197. I am definitely all for using quilting cotton. Between being poor and a VERY novice seamstress, it would be a huge waste of my money to use "nice" fabric. I tend to make most of the clothes I make (which are most of the time for small children or babies) out of either quilting cotton, broadcloth, or flannel. It makes my hobby affordable and makes it much less depressing when something turns out really bad. Plus a lot of my fabric is given to my by quilters who have extra or quit quilting, so I don't have to pay anything for it. My other favorite source of fabric is old sheets, because you get a huge sheet for only a couple dollars and have TONS of fabric to work with.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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