Over the weekend, I visited the FIT exhibit "His and Hers" and saw the most amazing garment: an evening ensemble designed in 1937 by Muriel King. It's essentially a jumpsuit in black silk crepe, with a low scoop neck and palazzo pants that gather into a turkish-type pantleg at the bottom. It had a hip swag with ties that hung gracefully in the front, almost making the ensemble appear to be a gown (in fact, the hip swag was reminiscent of the
green charmeuse gown from Atonement we discussed a few days ago). Apparently
Vogue magazine suggested that this would be just the kind of thing to wear for dining at home. (Whether this means entertaining at home or just eating takeout on the sofa was unclear to me.) What
was clear was that I was smitten with the whole effect. I so wish I could show you a picture of this ensemble! Alas, it is not on the FIT online archive.
The piece got me thinking about how to make a version for myself, in a slinky black jersey, which I will wear to eat bonbons and order about the pool boy. I quite like the scoop neck and waist tie on this pattern, which is a reproduction from Decades of Style called the "
kitchenette pajama:"
But perhaps the best of all is this
Marfy pattern, which has a glamorous bodice and the same turkish pant legs of the Muriel King on exhibit. Marfy calls it a "cross between the 1950s and the Far East."
Some more research indicated not only was the silk jumpsuit
the thing to wear for dining at home in 1937, but it's also
the piece of 2011. I especially like this Marc by Marc Jacobs number, perhaps mostly because of the fierce model and her amazing hair.
I'm also digging this Sonia Rykiel jumpsuit with it's floppy velvet bow. Has a certain elegant charm, yes?
What do you think of this whole look? It's one thing to imagine yourself wearing this while your butler brings you champagne and strawberries . . . and yet another to actually wear it. We've debated jumpsuits here before, but this is the most glamorous I've seen them. Can these slinky versions change your mind?
Not sure about the jumpsuit thing, but I do like that Marfy Pattern's bodice. I'll have to think about this some more :)
ReplyDeleteI'm definitely in the NAY camp. I just can't get behind jumpsuits. Something about having to get fully naked to pee puts me off :)
ReplyDeleteI think these are stunning. I do wonder about how fabulous they would look on a regular sized human though. I am sure not the same as the models or ladies on the pattern drawings! Longer legs might be a must for this look. Sigh.
ReplyDeleteHave to admit I can't get super excited about full-length jumpsuits in general, although the lounging pajamas of the 20s and 30s are alluring and glamorous! Especially if they're in some yummy pastel silks. I think for me the overriding factor is that 1.) they're a highly trendy garment and 2.) I have doubts as to how a full-length jumpsuit (no matter how slinky/sumptuous the fabric was!) would look on my short legs and wide rear. I'm curious to see what others have to say about this! ;)
ReplyDelete♥ Casey
I agree with Beth. Yea for jumpsuits, as long as they suit you. Poofy trousers are generally a look for long, slim legs (alas!), anyway, though I think the legs in that first pattern in your post (Butterick) would be more wearable for women of different proportions. That Marfy pattern looks amazing and I do have a soft spot for bows, so that part of the Sonia Rykiel pattern definitely works for me!
ReplyDeleteShort-length playsuits can work better for shorter ladies (like myself!), though - phew!
A definite yay for me! Elegant, flowy pant suit in a drapey crepe silk or even in a silk/viscose jersey. I can't imagine a more decadent, luxurious and utterly self-indulgent outfit. With a box of Swiss pralines and the pool boy dutifully refilling my glass...
ReplyDeleteHeh - others have noted the same issue that I always think of with this - the bathroom thing. And why put the opening and buttons/zip in the back? Dancing around a toilet cubicle in a restaurant trying to get that is a real turnoff.
ReplyDeleteAnd here I was worried that I would be the only one worried about bathroom issues. There's days that I might not get my slacks undone in time, let alone have to undress completely. And then there's my natural grace which would make sure that a sleeve got dipped in water every time. So, jumpsuits, no matter how cute, are not my cup of tea.
ReplyDeleteYeah! I found this jumpsuit by AKO V1185
ReplyDeleteMisses' Jumpsuit on the vogue site, on sale of course and paired it with a bolero jacket. Made it out of super light weight dark blue Terry cloth. With the double pockets on the side I made the inner pocket the same fabric as the bolero. Typically I nerve where a thing but dresses to work but I took a chance and boy did peole love the assemble. I use to think jumpsuit looked like Midwest on adults but this pattern felt grown up in it's styling.
I love the look, but it would never work on my short fluffy body. And yeah, the bathroom thing . ..
ReplyDeleteYay!!!!! I wish I had V1249 and S2401 in my closet right now. In my mind, I see these making appearances at summer concerts and nice dinners out. They are not for my couch.
ReplyDeleteThe Marfy pattern is gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteI'm in the 'it depends' camp -- it seems to me that a garment like this requires a certain amount of attitude to carry it off well. If you have (or can pretend to have) the attitude, then by all means, go for it.
If I had the attitude, I wouldn't waste these on bonbons. That's a dinner party outfit.
UGH. I just can't get behind jumpsuits or playsuits. Jumpsuits are for skydivers, military pilots and mechanics. Playsuits for small children. Any variation of these two in fancy fabrics or styles for adult ladies always strikes me as awkward and sometimes downright creepy.
ReplyDeleteNo. No, no. No. No. No. They're great for changing diapers and all, but on a grown up? How would you pee? I've always wondered that.
ReplyDeleteI have to say yes to the first one, view C. I could absolutely lounge on the couch while my butler brought me treats in that. However, the rest of them are a definite no. Just way to '80s, regardless of any impracticality (which I frequently over look for style anyway). I do agree about the bodice on the Marfy pattern though. Very nice!
ReplyDeleteI totally love jumpsuits. Especially circa '76 Suzi Quatro jumpsuits, but these slinky numbers are quite fetching. I love the Marc by Marc Jacobs one because the volume of the pants is really great. I think the Butterick pattern looks like something Wallis Simpson might have worn in The King's Speech, glamorous and decadent.
ReplyDeleteWay back in the olden days when I was thin I made myself a jumpsuit--like a REAL looking jumpsuit as part of an aviatrix look I was working, with heels and red lipstick of course. ( I don't really like jumpsuits; I'm just excessively open minded. )
ReplyDeleteI had the same experience as Krista. I have never had more compliments and people who knew I sew wanted the pattern number. Given how many people don't like them here, it must be a love them or hate them thing.
There was a jumpsuit in the spring Sew Stylish magazine (based on Simplicity 2227) that had wide legs and a laid back feel that I was pretty enamored with. I didn't even think of the bathroom issues, but I was concerned with either having to deal with wedgies or have a crotch that hangs very low to allow for free movement - especially sitting down! I have the same concern with rompers... guess I should just test one out!
ReplyDeleteFor the statuesque or willowy, Yea.
ReplyDeleteFor the vertically challenged and rotund (ME!), NAY.
I would LOVE, LOVE, LOVE to be able to wear a silk jumpery, pantsy thing like Nora Charles, but alas... I do not have the figure.
When I was a kid [cough]70s[cough] we wore jumpsuits. They look cute on kids. But for those of us curvaceous women... Well... Le sigh.
wv: preal - a hybrid of "puh-lease" and "get real".
I think I am in the 'Yay' category. It just seems like so much fun, and super cozy for lounging in. I really like the Marfy one as well.
ReplyDeleteI did alter a jumpsuit for a steam-punk costume one time. It was quite a bit of work, but I wore an undershirt with it, and it buttoned down the front so I didn't really feel 'naked' using the rest room. It was a lot of fun to wear but the one I altered wasn't really 'lounge wear'. I say go for it.
I suppose if you're only going to have one jumpsuit in life...a dressy one would be good, but prepared to do bathroom gymnastics to keep it clean. I have a 1940s rayon fabric playsuit...it's darling but between the face that I have to take it off for the washroom and it's nearly backless, well, I haven't worn it in years although it's darling.
ReplyDeleteYAY!! I've been daydreaming about jumpsuits for a month for my next sewing project. I'm doing mine in jersey, though, and it will likely have a wrap front bodice so that I'll be able to get out of it without contortions. M6083, McCall's 1.99 pattern of the week this week has a jumpsuit pattern not so different than what I'm going for. I'm probably going to use the 1976 pattern, M5366, a la Adey from "the Sew Convert" blog. I also don't love the harem pant cuffs.
ReplyDeleteThe vintage pattern looks lovely, but I still wouldn't go for it because of the bathroom issue (I'm the same with bathing attire - love the one piece vintage suits but a tankini wins out every time). I think the 2 modern jumpsuits are hideous.
ReplyDeleteI think this is an interesting discussion. If a person looks at pattern illustrations for "wardrobe" sets, there is invariably a top and pants from the same fabric that can be worn together for a look that is decidedly jumpsuit-like. And that never raises any eyebrows. But jumpsuits are polarizing.
ReplyDeletePersonally, I would go for a top and pants combo of the same fabric for more mileage and because of bathroom issues. That Marfy patter could definitely be modified for separates.
I have made the Decades of Style pattern, but not nearly as glamorous as you envision. Mine are polar fleece for the bottoms and flannel for the bodice. That jumpsuit is the most comfortable item of clothing I own and looks much better on this plus-sized gal that your typical track suit loungewear. I do, however, feel that its a bit too costumey to wear out of the house and I typically only wear it when I'm sick or we have a blizzard-induced power outage.
ReplyDeleteI really, really like the idea of this, but I don't really think I could pull it off. I never wear trousers at all to begin with, and I've got a feeling that pieces like this might look better on those willowy cat-walk girls. Which isn't that far from the 30's silhouette. But I don't know, I think you should give it a go if you can fit it in, it might turn out to be fabulous :)
ReplyDeleteI keep looking over that Decades of Style pattern. It's jumpsuit as pajamas, clearly intended for the home. I love that she's drying a dish in the illustration.
ReplyDeleteI did jumpsuits the first go round, in my 20's. Everything everybody says is true about bathroom cubicles...but for strictly at home wear, maybe.
I like the jumpsuits! I think even a shortie like me could pull off the look because all one colour is lengthening.
ReplyDeleteSky high heels would be absolutely necessary. The bathroom thing, yes that could end up being an I Love Lucy moment!
I really love the top pattern you posted - very elegant. In general I'm still on the fence about jumpsuits though, I am seeing a lot more designs that I really like but I'm not sure that they will look nearly as good on me in real life as they do in my mind :o)
ReplyDeleteMaybe I'll give up on practicalities (like drinking - no fulids, no toilet dilemma) and just go for it.
I wore those back in the 70's. I sewed up two for summer, and that was the last time I was ever tempted. They are not comfortable to wear and unmanageable generally. I looked cute, but they were soon relegated to sleepwear.
ReplyDeleteI always dismissed jumpsuits as trendy and impractical... However Gertie, you've done an excellent job of making me question my previous assumption! I still agree with many other comments-this style may be more flattering for the tall and willowy type, but the pieces that you showcase in this post, I find appealing. (I commend you for this because my usual reaction to jumpsuits is somewhat of a horrified gasp.) I can now imagine myself hosting a dinner party by the pool in my elegant suit. This said, I think my acquisition of a jumpsuit will follow that of the pool, pool boy, and the free time to lounge by it while consuming professionally prepared deliciousness. (This is all in the works :P )
ReplyDeleteHrrrrm. I admit that the gold Marfy is pretty sumptuous. But overall (heh, pun), jumpsuits seem gimmicky and costume-y to me. Like you couldn't just wear one and walk around like normal. If you wear it, you must loll around by a pool wearing a turban and sparkly earrings, snapping your fingers to get the waiter's attention.
ReplyDeleteThe bathroom problem is hugely off-putting. Getting naked would knock my turban off and I'd definitely end up dunking at least one of the sleeves. Jumpsuits get a thumbs-down for practicality and a thumbs-up for silliness.
NO! Saw & wore them in the 80's... never want to see them again!
ReplyDeleteLOVE IT!!! Sign me up. The Marfy pattern is the jumpsuit I've been dreaming of...jumpsuit sew along, anyone. We could start a revolution. ;)
ReplyDeleteI love jumpsuits. Recently made and wore Vogue 1249 -- with NO problems. I just finished my second version of McCall's 6083... this time it's the strapless version. I do agree that you have to have a certain amount of "panache" to wear one. If you carry yourself with confidence like this is something you're SUPPOSED to have on, everyone else will believe it!
ReplyDeleteOne piece lounge pajamas from the 30s can look really elegant and chic. See Carole Lombard in My Man Godfrey. Some sets were elegant enough that they could have been worn as alternatives to the "hostess gown" (so a lady could receive guests at her home in such wear, though it seems that the "trend" was short lived in the early 30s). The "palazzo" style was also often seen worn by ladies on holiday at warm resorts. What a coincidence, too: yesterday, I actually posted about the fact that I own a pair of "kitchenettes" from the early 30s. They are made of cotton and have a shorter hem, so they are more casual than the silky loungewear you might be thinking of. In the end, the chicest version of this style I've ever seen was designed by Claire McCardell in the 30s. Halter neck, dark navy, full, wide, long trouser legs. Not a fan of the "casbah" or "jumpsuit" look of later styles...
ReplyDeleteIt really does take a certain figure to pull off a jumpsuit and I'm just not in that category, so it's a NAY from me. My SIL however -SHE could pull it off, but she's the only one I know who would ba able to...
ReplyDeleteIt's a yeah for me! I think jumpsuits can look good on several body types. I'm long-waisted with short legs and jumpsuits I wore in the 70's gave me better proportions as the same fabric on top and bottom gave a longer, leaner line visually.
ReplyDeleteKaren in Houston
I'm with @Monique here. Done that in the 1980s and never again!
ReplyDeleteBut the 1930s ones look quite lovely. Have a look for illustrations, models and real women: http://lamodepyjama.blogspot.com/
The do look best on tall and slender types. That ain't me.
This is one of those trends that I hated, then became accustomed to, and now really like. I'd LOVE a silk jumpsuit for myself!
ReplyDeleteMy brother's band does this thing with the audience-
ReplyDeleteBand: When I say "jumpsuit", you say, "Nay"!
Band: JUMPSUIT
Audience: NAY!
Band: JUMPSUIT
Audience: NAY!
ut Gertie, when you SHOW A PICTURE of a jumpsuit, I say, "wait!"
JUMPSUIT - WAIT!
Whoa ... maybe I can put an invisible zipper in there somewhere? I love the 2nd one with the bow.....
Endured jumpsuits in the 1970s, when I was young and beautiful, lol. Never again. Struggle out and in every time you visit the toilet, and usually dunk some part of the garment into the ... water. I actually bought a pattern (in the 80s) with a drop-seat for the jumpsuits, but was not interested enough to ever sew it up. Jumpsuits are like raising chickens: I like the idea of them, but the reality is a whole 'nother mess.
ReplyDeleteI like them in theory, but not in execution. Those 1930s versions are so elegant that they could sway me, but then I think of the practicalities and tell myself to move on...
ReplyDeleteYEA! I have been thinking about making a jumpsuit for this summer for a couple of months now.
ReplyDeleteI love the designer ones you've shown, the Marfy one and the kitchenette pyjama. I never thought I'd like jumpsuits but a designer friend of mine has made them as part of her collection for the past two years and the look has grown on me. Now, I have even more in my inspiration folder for when I start drafting mine.
I like them in theory, but not in execution. Those 1930s versions are so elegant that they could sway me, but then I think of the practicalities and tell myself to move on...
ReplyDeleteYay! I love em when they are cute. And I have to say, I am neither tall or skinny. I'm 5"4 with a very hourglass figure, and I can rock a jumpsuit. I stick to the short ones because to me this is a summer look. I think it depends more on the shape of the suit and most people could find something to fit their figure.
ReplyDeleteI absolutely love jumpsuits and the idea of a silk version for the home. So much more chic that my flannel pants.
ReplyDeleteMake them as separates and I'm right there with you. There is no real reason it has to be a jumpsuit, right?
ReplyDeleteDefinitely swellegant!
Funny, even though I like them, my word verification was dislic.
Erica Bunker did a fabulous jumpsuit using a new Vogue pattern. I really like how they look. I think the right styling is needed, but it has a nice classic feel that makes it keep resurfacing every decade. Got to love all of Lanvin's takes on it from the 70s to last year's runway show.
ReplyDeletei love it, i think! maybe for wearing while eating a bowl of truffles and watching old movies.
ReplyDeleteAnother here in the 'it depends' camp. Yea if done glamourously (love that Marfy patt), nay if it approaches clownsuit status. And probably nay for me personally just because of the bathroom challenges.
ReplyDeleteNay!
ReplyDeleteI see it as something a man would think up for a woman to wear. Unattractive on nearly every body type except tall & slender.
I am also in the camp of "How does one use the facilities?" camp.
In the mid-1980s, I had a jumpsuit with the gathered legs that I found in one of those stores that used to abound that sold clothes from India in gauze, etc. The one I bought was on the clearance rack because it had a rip up the back, which I fixed (I think I just bound the edges with bias tape and left it as an opening). It was actually pretty nice -- sheer black fabric with a gold and silver striped design woven in, a crossover bodice, sleeveless. I wore it for several concerts, and I looked fine in it (at least, the pictures don't make me cringe today!), even though I'm not exactly willowy. (An odd thing: the man I'm married to now actually saw me for the first time when I was wearing that outfit on stage more than a decade before we actually met.)
ReplyDeleteI think the vintage ones just beautifull, and there are a few around that pull it off, although I;m personally not keen with big bow!! YAY YAY YAY!!!
ReplyDeleteI am short and extremely short waisted so I know that a jumpsuit on me would just look like prison clothes. I also agree with Paula it seems like going to the bathroom would be a ton of work.
ReplyDeleteA product of the 80s/90s, I've seen many of the awful 70s/80s variety and used to cringe at the thought of jumpsuits as everyday wear. However, in the last six months or so I have seen many lovely 30s/40s silk playsuits in movies and have fallen in love. I've been considering putting one on my sewing list. Unfortunately, I have a long waist, shorter legs, and huge thigh muscles. I'm fairly certain the only way I could avoid looking like a Weeble would be to sew one in a solid color with wide legs and cuffs. And since they're intended to be worn at home, that's where I'd wear mine as well, so no worries about bathroom breaks. I say sew one up and see how it goes!
ReplyDeleteDon't you have to be as slim as Katherine Hepburn to look good in a jumpsuit?
ReplyDeleteTwo words, "adult onesie". Especially the pic of the velvet one without a model.....
ReplyDeleteI used to be firmly in the nay camp, but the Mark + James (as in Badgley Mischka) for Vogue 1249 has got me rethinking my position. Although, I'm not sure how anyone with hips could wear this.
ReplyDeleteThat said, I hope that no one ever uses the word "floppy" in reference to anything I might wear. Ever.
I'm unsure about jumpsuits. I always see them in fashion magazines but I hardly ever see them on the street on "real people."
ReplyDeleteHa! I just bought Vogue 1129 the other day:)
ReplyDeleteI used to say nay, but as a broke college student in the 90s I had a rayon blend jumpsuit that I adored and it brings back fond memories. black Halo had a very cute frequently seen on celebs a few years ago (I remember because I wanted and couldn't wear as I was pregnant:/)
http://www.shopbop.com/strapless-jumpsuit-black-halo/vp/v=1/845524441834755.htm?folderID=2534374302101242&extid=affprg-1434713-BLACK2002112867
I love the idea of a jumpsuit. But I don't think modern versions do it justice. They often come off as much more relaxed than I think a jumpsuit should be. If done in a luxurious fabric with perfect accessories and hair, it could be amazing. But when done in those slouchy cuts and fabrics, it ends up looking like a definite fashion don't... That's just me though!
ReplyDeleteI don't know if I'd ever wear one (I'd have to try one on and see) but I love jumpsuits, especially the really glamorous one's. Have you seen Downton Abbey? Looking at these reminds me a bit of the jumpsuit Sybil had made up for dinner in one episode (image here: http://images4.fanpop.com/image/photos/19300000/Downton-Abbey-downton-abbey-19339244-500-750.jpg ). The show is full of gorgeous clothes but that one really stood out, especially since it was the only time I saw a woman in pants on the show.
ReplyDeleteI quite like the last illustrated one you posted- but I'd like it more if it had a straight/flared leg than what looks like an elastic at the bottom of it. It's much more glamorous with a belt I think, so I'll give it a conditional yea.
ReplyDeleteI have to give an unconditional YES. I admit to owning THREE silk jumpsuits - neither of which, sadly, I made - but I do have a 70s-inspired silk jumpsuit project that is going to be a Frankenpattern. Jumpsuits were big it seems in every era but the 90s and when they started coming back in, at first they were really 80s-Olivia-Newton-John, then they got more 40s-meets-70s. Anyway, I love them and there is a lot you can do to dress up or down. It's basically like a dress, cept with pants, and it IS more complicated to use the bathroom. But I don't care ;).
ReplyDeleteThis post has pushed me to order the Marfly pattern (through a friend who knows someone in America - damn them for not shipping to the UK!)
ReplyDeletexxx