The Daily Dress: '50s Nautical Rope Detail

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Vintage dresses can be the best inspiration for unusual trims. Designers of the '50s in particular seemed to have a special knack for using basic trims in completely innovative ways. Take this cherry red dress for instance--how sweet is that that rope trim on the skirt? This design is by Mam'selle by Betty Carol, one of the "better Seventh Avenue junior labels."

And I think my favorite thing about it is how accessible it would be to reproduce. A basic red frock, scalloped lace trim, thick cord, and grommets: done! Large grommets are set vertically down the skirt. The cord is laced through with a chinese ball knot on one end and a bow on the other. That's it!

I love the idea of reproducing this dress with my pattern B6094 as the basis.

The back could even use more knot balls or bows on the flaps.

I haven't gotten to make this design for myself yet, and now I'm a little obsessed with the idea. Cherry red corduroy would be perfect!

The Daily Dress: Cherry Smash

Do you readers watch Smash? I don't, and I really can't tell you why. It's comprised of many things I love: musicals, Marilyn Monroe, Katherine McPhee (I don't know why, I just like her, ok?), and musicals (yes, that had to be said twice). Someone wrote to me about this cherry print dress months before the show even premiered, and I'm sure you can see why. So cute! So retro!

Anyway, it's months and months later, and I find myself thinking about the dress again. And about Smash, which I just informed Jeff that we're going to get caught up on.

Anyway, the dress comes from repro brand Stop Staring!, and you can buy it here.

 Or, better yet, you can sew your own! New Look 6002 has a great option.

I would just remove the bow thingy and widen the neckline, making the straps slightly narrower. I would make it very snug, in a stretch woven (let me know if you find some cherry print fabric!).

Happy Friday, dear readers!

The Daily Dress: Full-Skirted LBD

When we think of the Little Black Dress, it's usually the sleek, slim-skirted model, right? But lately I've been dreaming about a fluffy-skirted dress in black cotton for summer. Like the Kate Spade number above. Wouldn't that be an incredibly useful dress to have in one's wardrobe? (Love it with the pink shoes and necklace!)

If I make my own version, I think I'll use New Look 6886. (I just got it for $1.99 at Jo-Ann! Yes, I have a Jo-Ann's now!)

I'd make View D, and add some box pleats to the flared skirt for extra fullness.

The fabric would be simple, like a black sateen or pique with just a little stretch.

Another great pattern option? Simplicity 1803, the pink version.

Okay, I've now worked myself up into needing this dress. I have a sewing afternoon with a friend planned for this weekend, and I just want to cut out a ton of summer dresses. This one will be included!

Anyone else down with the full-skirted LBD?

The Daily Dress: Dior's Sheer Roses

I am so pleased you all are into the idea of a home decor series! But even more than that, I was thrilled that one commenter asked for more Daily Dress posts. I miss writing these suckers.

So let's jump back in with a very au courant frock: this sheer loveliness from the recent Spring 2012 Dior Haute Couture show. This is one of those shows that everyone kept asking me if I had seen: after all, it has '50s-inspired couture, horsehair braid, roses--all of my favorite things! I finally got around to checking it out online, and it does not disappoint. Of course, every review of a Dior couture show mentions the absence of John Galliano. I kind of miss that little jerk too, but I think this Bill Gaytten fellow is really finding his stride. 

The dress pictured above is one of my favorites. On the surface, it's classic. The surplice bodice, kimono sleeves, full skirt, obi-style waist embellishment, and glorious rose embroidery are all straight out of the late '50s. It's pretty similar to this pattern I posted about last month, isn't it?

The twist in the Dior show was using sheer fabrics so the inner workings of each piece are exposed. These two detail shots (of similar dresses in the collection) show horsehair braid in the sleeves, and crinoline net underneath. (And boobs. I always feel sorry for the girl who has to wear the "edgy" see-through thing without a bra.)

I'm really loving the vintage-y waist drape. So perky!

I'm trying to incorporate something kind of similar into a design I've been working on, and I have a collection of vintage images as inspiration. A friend pointed out today that two current Vogue patterns have a really similar detail. First is 1108 by Bellville Sassoon:

And secondly, 1270 by Kay Unger, a much more subtle take on the bow.

What did you think of the collection? What do you think of perky waist drapes?

The Daily Dress: Glee Does Vintage

Lots of Glee fans hate it when the characters wear vintage, because that means they can't find the same garments in stores. How silly! The vintage pieces Rachel wears are often the most interesting on the show, take this black frock for instance. (From the episode "Asian F," when she and Mercedes sing "Out Here on My Own.")

It's hard to find a great picture of this dress, but trust me: it's fabulous. I barely listened to the music because I was so busy studying it. (And also noticing how thin Lea Michele has gotten since season 1, but that's another discussion for another time, I suppose. Update: I'm not trying to "body snark" here, and I apologize if anyone is offended by the reference to her weight. It's just been quite a dramatic change since she first appeared on TV.)

The dress is very classic early 60s: kimono sleeves, shaped midriff with piping, adorable bow, and a full pleated skirt. A search for similar patterns will bring up lots of gems, including this one (which is a bust 36" and I would like you to know I have refrained from buying just so one of you can have it. You're welcome.)

It's also fun to browse through the midriff category on the Vintage Pattern wiki.

The absolute perfect fabric for this dress would be black silk faille--here's one from Gorgeous Fabrics. Or maybe taffeta? Or a sturdy cotton for daytime maybe. The choice is yours!

The Daily Dress: Dior Velvet Floral

Oh my. Isn't this bodice just perfection? This is a 1950s Christian Dior in printed velvet, which is something you don't see everyday! I just adore the pink tones with the black; it's a surprisingly lovely effect.

I came across it because I was looking for pleated dresses to inspire us for tomorrow's Stitch-Along post. And yes, it does have a pleated skirt that falls in soft folds.

But it's the print that won my heart. It reminded me instantly of the dress Joan wore in the Mad Men episode where she hosts a dinner party (who can forget Joanie playing the accordion?!).

Sigh. So lovely. I believe the floral on Joan's dress is appliqued on, rather than printed, as with the Dior above.

Okay, so this post became more about pink and black floral dresses than pleats, didn't it? No matter. We must take inspiration when it comes!

Update: The Dior dress is surprisingly similar to this Vintage Vogue reissue pattern. A match made in sewing heaven!

The Daily Dress: Pintucked Floral

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Tomorrow I will be posting my entry on pintucking methods on the STC Craft Blog! I'll confess it was the method I was most excited to learn when I started the Stitch-Along over there. In honor of the occasion, here's an inspirational dress to whet your pintuck appetite.

I especially like the effect the pintucks make when darted. In this case, the fabric would have been pintucked before being cut.

The neckline is bound with a bias strip and the skirt is pleated.

I love how this dress shows what simple fabric manipulation techniques can do for a basic dress silhouette. I have some amazing silk organza printed with huge pink roses that I would love to do this with!

Will you be joining me for pintucking tomorrow?

The Daily Dress: Shirred-Back Anthro Slip Dress

Since we're in the middle of the shirring series, how about a shirred-back Anthropologie dress? This is their Verdant Slip Dress. Oddly, Anthropologie always refers to shirring as "smocking." I don't think heirloom seamstresses would appreciate that!

This is such a pretty print, don't you think? I love those big clusters of flowers.

But let's talk about what's important here: the shirring. The back has a panel of shirring and the skirt below has lovely soft pleats.

I'm kind of dying to check out the construction of this dress. Has anyone tried it on? Or better yet, own it? I especially want to know how they elasticized the skirt below the shirred panel.

I'll be in Rockefeller Center today; I might need to take an Anthro trip!

The Daily Dress: Esther Williams

In keeping with the "bathing beauty" theme, is anyone more apropos than Esther Williams? I'm quite sure she's modeling a swimsuit here, but I love the bodice style and it could be adapted very effectively to a dress. I very much like the use of stripes across the little collar (does anyone know what the word is for that type of neckline treatment? I always call them collars, but that doesn't seem quite right). This neckline feature is very easy to draft and add to your favorite sundress. In fact, I've been planning a tutorial on the topic! And doesn't the bow just set it off perfectly?

The Daily Dress: Adele in Barbara Tfank

I've been listening to Adele non-stop in the sewing room today; I just adore her music and her retro vibe. I was reminded of her dress for the Grammys in 2009, which was commissioned by Anna Wintour and designed by Barbara Tfank. (Remember Tfank's lime green scalloped frock we admired a while back?)

I think this dress was such a lovely design for Adele. The hourglass shape is so beautiful on her and the whole thing is a wonderfully understated retro look.

Tfank also made her this gorgeous green evening coat. To die for!

Vintage Vogues 2903 (with the neckline band omitted) and 1137 would be a great starting point for this ensemble.

Only slightly off-topic: LOVE THE HAIR, GIRL.

The Daily Dress: Emma Pillsbury in Kate Spade

I'm afraid I may have given the impression this morning that I'm anti-jabot, or even anti-ruffle. Goodness no! It's more that I'm tired of seeing the same cheaply made knit top everywhere. Jabots can be beautiful and classy, as demonstrated here by Emma Pillsbury of Glee, wearing the Kate SPade "Cloey" dress.

I love the bright colors and faux-one-piece look of this dress.

Kate Spade made it in approximately a bajillion colors and fabrics. Here's another one I love, showing how stripes can be used effectively on circular ruffles.

A great pattern to use as a starting point for this style would be Simplicity 2724:

Would you wear this style?

The Daily Dress: Dita in Dior

Happy Memorial Day! I thought we'd commemorate with a look that seems very WWII era to me. This is Dita Von Teese at Coachella this year, wearing Christian Dior RTW from Spring 2011. I love the subtle Hawaiian print of this jumpsuit and the sailor hat she paired it with. Plus: espadrilles!

The styling of this show was fabulous; I loved the hair and accessories.

For your own take on this look, I would pair a tropical-ish print like this one:

Pair it with a retro romper pattern like M6331:

Top it off with a jaunty sailor hat (I'm sure you've got a few of those around, right?) and you're done!

Have a lovely day, all!

The Daily Dress: Strapless Cotillion Dress

Look at the drama of this skirt! I chose this 50s dress today (for sale here) because it's a good example of a boned garment. My high-waisted boned skirt tutorial today is really just a short strapless bodice, if you think about it. You can use the same techniques to make a strapless dress, but you will want to omit the horsehair canvas (too stiff) and sandwich the boning in between a layer of lining fabric and a layer of silk organza instead.

This dress also demonstrates how to effectively use stripes on a full circle skirt. See how the grain line is horizontal at the center front skirt? Because the skirt is a complete circle, the stripes become vertical at the side seams, so there's no need to match stripes up at the seams, since they'll be parallel to each other.

The red arrows in this photo show the grainline.

In the picture below, you can see that the dress closes with a side lapped zipper, which is a lovely vintage detail.

The seller notes that the label reads "Cotillion Formals." It would also make a lovely wedding dress, don't you think?