Monday, April 14, 2014

Slip Sew-Along #3: Picking a Size and Making Adjustments



Hey sew-alongers! Let's get started on our slips, shall we?

First, choose a size for the slip. If you're between sizes, it's a pretty safe bet to size down. We're using a two-way stretch fabric which is very forgiving. Knit undergarments are best fitted, rather than having extra ease.

If you're one size on the top and another on the bottom, it's easy to make a custom-fit pattern. Let's say you're a 14 above the waist and a 16 in the hips. All you need to do is draw a new pattern line that tapers from the 14 at the waist to a 16 at the hip. Here's what that looks like:


When cutting, make sure to follow your new line!

Note that this pattern includes A/B, C, and D cup sizes, so choose your bra pattern piece accordingly.

As for the panties, they run true to size. However, if you have a large bottom/hips, I would definitely recommend going with your hip measurement. I designed these panties to have full butt coverage (my pet peeve is undies that cut across the butt cheek--ugh!). To get those benefits, you need to use your measurement from the largest part of your butt.

To give you a sense of sizing, my measurements put me solidly at a 16. However, I cut a 14 in the slip to get a close fit, since I intend to wear this under dresses and skirts. In the panties, I cut a 16 since I have a big butt. (It's true.)

In my next post, I'll show you how to do a full bust adjustment if you're larger than a D cup. See you soon!

Previous sew-along posts:

Slip Sew-Along #1: Inside the Kit, Plus Other Supplies
Slip Sew-Along #2: Pre-treating Your Fabric

21 comments:

  1. im so excited for this!! My fabric is drying as i type! :) I will prep my pattern tonight!

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  2. Possible rookie question but I have to ask: are the measurements on the envelope the finished garment measurements? As the tissue isn't marked otherwise and there isn't another listing for this in the pattern I assume this is the case, but my past assumptions have steered me wrong and I just want to be sure.

    Thank you! I'm excited for this sew along! :)

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    Replies
    1. I'm glad you asked, I've been wondering the same thing.

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    2. Hi there, the envelope measurements are NOT the finished measurements--they are your body measurements. For some reason there are no finished measurements marked on this pattern, but they are easy to figure out by measuring the pattern pieces, subtracting the seam allowances. I just measured the waist of the size 14 and it has a couple inches of ease.

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  3. I can't wait for the full bust adjustment! I am a 34F and it's a right pain in the bottom trying to find a full slip that fits, so I am planning on making one :)

    http://asaucystitch.blogspot.co.uk/

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  4. Hi, Gertie. I've always wondered how to pick my size for the patterns with the different bust cups. I'm above a D cup as well. When I'm comparing my measurements to the pattern sizes, my chest (not bust) /waist/hip measurements would put me in a size 16 but the bust would be several inches too small. If I go by my bust measurement, I would choose a size 20 or 22. Do I make a size 16 with the D cup piece (adjusted per your next post) or a size 22 with the D cup piece (adjusted per your next post)?

    Thanks!

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    Replies
    1. I would make a 16 with the adjusted D cup.

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  5. I'm actually a 34AA so can I make the bust smaller that what is given?

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    Replies
    1. Definitely! You'll just reverse the steps for the FBA, which I'm posting today.

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  6. Where are the finished measurements for the garments?

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  7. Hi Gertie, may I ask something completely different? I'm a rookie at sewing, and am at the moment attempting a portrait blouse. The muslin shows I need to do some sort of swayback adjustment, but if I do it as described in the book, then it's no longer possible to cut the pieces on the fold? Or am I missing something? A seam down the back seems such a shame.
    Sorry for interfering with the sew-along!

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    Replies
    1. Just true up the CB line using a long straight edge. It will add a little circumference but you can take that same amount from the side seam. You can then place it on the fold. :)

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    2. Excellent, thanks!

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  8. Hold the phone... this pattern has multi cup sizes? It doesn't say so on the Butterick website! I passed on it because of this very fact!

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  9. Excited that it is multi-cup sized! I also passed on it b/c I thought it was only a a/b cup size

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  10. The butterick website didn't include a size chart with body measurements. Can you post a link to the envelope back?

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    1. It's right here: http://butterick.mccall.com/misses--misses--petites-pages-459.php

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  11. Thank you so much for this post. I finally got my pattern and am cutting it out and prepping everything while I wait for my fabric to arrive, and I needed to know if I had blended the size 14 to 16 correctly (I have the exact issue you mentioned), so now I know and I can prep with confidence. I can't wait to sew this up. Thank for doing the sew-along. Maybe I'll be able to do the panties at the same time you are posting about them. :)

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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