Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Corset Week, Part Three


I hit a bump in the road on my underbust corset! After making my pattern adjustments and cutting out my coutil, I dutifully tried to begin step one in the pattern instructions: inserting the busk. I even obediently labeled my busk pieces TR (top right) and TL (top left) as the Laughing Moon pattern suggested.


When I lined the busk up on my front corset piece, however, I was suddenly reminded that I had shortened the length of the corset front--my busk is now too short! Oy. I need a 9" busk (the busk should be one inch shorter than your corset front). I called a couple places in NYC, and no one has a busk that short.

So I turned to the internet! Corsetmaking.com carries the busk I needed (as well as tons of other helpful stuff). I know they're located in Philadelphia so it wouldn't take that long to get to me. But then I got an almost-instant shipping notification and my busk is scheduled to be delivered today! Wow. Big thumbs up to Corsetmaking.com.

In the meantime, I read this post from Julia of Sew Curvy that followed a slightly different construction order. Following her advice, I started by stitching centered boning channels to the pieces that will have them, and then stitching and pressing all the seams.



At this point, I'm ready to insert my busk and eyelets, so I'll need to pick this up again tomorrow.

I've been looking at some master corsetieres for inspiration. I love this girdle corset by Sian Hoffman, which combines stretch fabrics used in midcentury shapewear with classic corsetry technique.

I also love the removeable bow on this Waisted Couture piece. It has the option of added bust padding (not shown on this particular model, I'm guessing!); any idea how that would work? Maybe just sewn-in bra cups?

Lastly, in case you think I'm just focusing on the dog these days, a new Henry in bed pic for you.


16 comments:

  1. i am so enjoying this series--it is inspiring me to try one! I have been oogling over corsets forever and have one very spendy one that is soooooo challenging to put on i never wear it. this looks like i could actually make my own! thanks for sharing and breaking it all down!

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  2. The busk business sounds annoying, but how great that corsetmaking.com shipped so quickly!

    And I'm drooling so much over that girdle corset, it's perfect!

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  3. I'm late to the party, but congratulations on Rosie! She is such a darling and such a pretty girl!

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  4. I bet it has some type of shelf like padding to help keep the girls from slipping down.

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  5. Coincidentally, the bloggers at Two Nerdy History girls just posted about this 1830's self-fastening corset that's in LACMA's collection. Each pair of eyelets is threaded with a separate string; the strings are collected in a pair of tabs at the front, and the wearer can thus tighten the corset from the front without an assistant!

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  6. Oh I am obsessed with corsets...so fiddly to make though, cannot wait to see the end result!
    Amii xo

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  7. If you find yourself with a busk that is too long again, you can trim in down with tin snips and then dip the ends in plasti-dip (found at the hardware store).
    I have a pattern for a early 19 century stays (think jane austen) traced from an actual pair of stays, that have a little pocket to slip in bust padding.

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  8. Great your busk will arrive so quickly!! I love corsets but haven't been brave enough to make them. Your are inspiring me!

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  9. There's a great class taught by a Steampunk afficionado here in Seattle--it's basically 3 classes, 3 hours each. The teacher has us use canvas and then the outer fabric we like--and had some great tips for matching up the busk. The key thing I learned was that some of those stays are sharp--so I dip the edges in Plasti-Dip so they're not digging into my tender parts!

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  10. Farthingales has shorter busks available :)

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  11. You could also snip the ends of your busk, file it to a round point with a steel file and dip it in nail polish to tip it. Not that I've EVER had to hack together a corset at 3AM... :-P

    Or you can be like Ryan and use Plasti-Dip. But I used nail polish in a pinch and it's holding up fine. You just have to let them air dry completely.

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  12. I say, bring back Man's corset! :)

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  13. Aren't you glad I pointed out the Fairygothmother site to you ;)

    In fact, I've been eyeing that girdle corset for over a year now, dreaming about making something sort of like it.

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  14. In my last sewing class, drafting. The teacher thalked about corset, and she mentioned some sort of padding you "lay" your breast in. I think they use it in theather, and that it was called "cradle" in swedish (but I'm not to sure about that).

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  15. Ooh, also, if you want to self-lace into corsets, spiral lacing is I think the best way to go. I'm not sure how well it works for doing the double lacing thing, but spiral lacing on Elizabethan corsets is a SNAP.

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  16. Great idea of corset!This DIY corset is just amazing!

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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