Wednesday, July 11, 2012
Corset Week, Part Three
I hit a bump in the road on my underbust corset! After making my pattern adjustments and cutting out my coutil, I dutifully tried to begin step one in the pattern instructions: inserting the busk. I even obediently labeled my busk pieces TR (top right) and TL (top left) as the Laughing Moon pattern suggested.
When I lined the busk up on my front corset piece, however, I was suddenly reminded that I had shortened the length of the corset front--my busk is now too short! Oy. I need a 9" busk (the busk should be one inch shorter than your corset front). I called a couple places in NYC, and no one has a busk that short.
So I turned to the internet! Corsetmaking.com carries the busk I needed (as well as tons of other helpful stuff). I know they're located in Philadelphia so it wouldn't take that long to get to me. But then I got an almost-instant shipping notification and my busk is scheduled to be delivered today! Wow. Big thumbs up to Corsetmaking.com.
In the meantime, I read this post from Julia of Sew Curvy that followed a slightly different construction order. Following her advice, I started by stitching centered boning channels to the pieces that will have them, and then stitching and pressing all the seams.
At this point, I'm ready to insert my busk and eyelets, so I'll need to pick this up again tomorrow.
I've been looking at some master corsetieres for inspiration. I love this girdle corset by Sian Hoffman, which combines stretch fabrics used in midcentury shapewear with classic corsetry technique.
Waisted Couture piece. It has the option of added bust padding (not shown on this particular model, I'm guessing!); any idea how that would work? Maybe just sewn-in bra cups?