Thursday, July 12, 2012

Corset Week, Part Four


A lot of progress has been made on the underbust corset. Yesterday, I sewed my seams and stitched boning channels on the middle of some of the pieces (but not on any of the seams, in case I need to adjust them in the fitting). I came home late last night to find my package from Corsetmaking.com had arrived, yay! I decided to devote part of today to corset-making, since I don't have any classes to teach or take.

I sewed the right front facing on, leaving openings for the busk fasteners. 

Sliding the busk between the corset and facing felt like a religious experience.

Stitching next to the busk with a zipper foot was slightly terrifying, but I managed to not break a needle.

Whoops! My facing covers one of the boning channels I stitched in yesterday.

I took it out, and stitched it on top of the facing's raw edge to get a clean finish.




This is about the time Pip decided to take a nap on my instructions.

Luckily, I was able to read around her butt.


Next, the left side of the busk! I made the markings.

Made holes with an awl.

And popped in the busk, and then stitched next to it. (My clean record on needle breaking remains! For now.)

It looked magical when I put the two sides together.


Next: grommets! I was tempted to have my grommets professionally inserted at Steinlauf and Stoller. But my DIY pride got the best of me, and I decided to do it myself. My corset kit came with a grommet kit, but I took it out months ago to make a belt, and found I didn't really like it. So I tried a new kit. Unfortunately, I got size 0 rather than 00. You wouldn't think there would be much of a difference, but there really is!

I put the first two in wrong side up, but then I got the hang of it. My grommets look HUGE, but it's kind of a cool effect.

Tomorrow: fitting, plus a corset-y GIVEAWAY!

P.S. I also have an exciting post that I'll put up next week--Melanie, my editor, brought over an advance copy of my book! I'll be putting up a sneak peek for you on Monday! Here I am looking through it for the first time.




39 comments:

  1. Grommets *are* a learning curve, and even when you know how to do it, if you hammer a little off center, you have to pry the darn thing out and do it with another! I've done them a couple times--once on the Disney Tangled dress, and once on a jumpsuit for Bit--and learned how to do it. My first time out was awful! I was hammering on the wrong side and it took a bit to figure out what I was doing wrong!

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  2. Your corset looks fantastic! And I am so glad to see your book is wire bound! Very useful.

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  3. Grommets (or eyelets as we tend to call them in the UK) are tricky. I got myself the prym vario pliers and they are one of my best Corsetmaking investments. No more split eyelets and much quicker than with a hammer.

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  4. Looks gorgeous! Having made several myself over the years, including some that have been under tremendous stress (150 pounds of woman in a 140 pound corset) I have found I prefer buttonhole stitching instead of grommets, since mine always tore out over time! Hope yours work better than mine. I love the fabric, it looks so elegant.

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  5. I'm working up the courage to put grommets in my corset as well! It's really quite daunting. I put grommets in my mock-up because I'd never done it before and figured I could do with some practising. They feel a bit... loose, if that makes sense, but I'm hoping the thickness of my coutil will make up for that.

    The book looks fantastic! I'm really, really looking forward to it :)

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  6. It looks great already, cannot wait to it finished!!!

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  7. I am so suprised that you dont have a Crop a Dile Big Bite! I love this tool! It makes grommets so easy I did 20 in a corset in about 5 min!
    Here they are on Amazon:
    http://www.amazon.com/Crop-A-Dile-II-Big-Bite-Punch/dp/B008GRM7NC/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1342115601&sr=8-11&keywords=crop+a+dile+big+bite

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  8. You've never broken a needle? Man, when I first started sewing, I broke at least a dozen. And then I broke a bunch more this year when I got my serger. I figure breaking is a needle's secondary function. ;)

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  9. Hooray! The book is SPIRAL-BOUND! I am even more excited to get my copy now. ;-) I love the busk and grommets pictorial, too - just lovely.

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  10. Anna, I meant I haven't broken a needle *today*! (That should give you a sense of how many needles I've broken in my life.)

    Katie H, thanks for the link!

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  11. I am getting anxious to attempt to make a corset that actually fits well. The first I made, as a much more inexperienced sewist, is worn by a torso manequinn that lives in my bedroom. I found grommets to be much like most sewing techniques -- daunting until I really tried it.

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  12. Looking great! Like the look of your book!

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  13. Good to know, Gertie. I was starting to wonder if I was buying the wrong needles. ;)

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  14. Corset is fascinating - book is exciting! I'm so glad it'll be spiral bound :)

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  15. my regency corset has 30+ grommets, you learn real fast. lol
    if anyone lives near Berkeley,CA, Lacis lets you use their grommet presses.......worth the drive if you are putting in a ton of them. lots of corset and specialty sewing supplies. they are online too.

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  16. I have that exact same kit! But awls are much better for making the initial holes. :-P

    I'm also super jealous of your not breaking needles! I think the last corset I made, I broke two packages of needles.

    I'm so excited about your book!

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  17. Your corset looks like it is going to turn out amazing! I just looked through some of your posts and I have a cat (Pete) that looks just like Henry Higgens. Pete is a Russian Blue and I adore his furry self.

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  18. Your corset is looking good so far. It must be so exciting to see an actual copy of the book. Congratulations are in order!

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  19. Your corset is looking terrific. I have been looking at that pattern for ages. Now I have to purchase. Your blot entries will be a great help. I have made corsets before and there is something wonderful about putting the busk in, especially when you don't break the needle. Now you just have to make a dress fitted to your forested shape! I cannot wait for the book preview. I have preordered and found the perfect fabric to make the wiggle dress. BTW there is nothing better than a feline paperweight.

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    1. That should read corseted shape not forested. Damn you autocorrect!!!

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  20. ooh it's looking pretty - are you using a brocade coutil? They're costly but gosh they make a pretty corset :)

    I'm SOO excited for your book! You must have been so stoked to see it live!! :)

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  21. I really am enjoying watching your corset evolve this week! I just discovered you on crafts.com and I am love loving this blog. I have preordered the book on and can't wait for it to arrive!!

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  22. ugg... autocorret... Craftsy.com...

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  23. You look so proud and lovely as you scan through your book. Fantastic! I can't wait to get the copy I preordered!

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  24. Katie H, respectfully, I disagree with your recommendation. The grommet setting kit Gertie got on the green card is the correct one that should be used when making a corset.
    If you read the reviews of the 'Crop-A-Dile II Big Bite Punch', many people were very unhappy with it. It is for scrap-booking, period. The kit Gertie bought as a replacement is the one I have (albeit, in the size 00!) It is foolproof, given some practice and a bit of patience. No part of a quality corset can be whacked out in "about 5 minutes".

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  25. Yay I am making my first corset too. I just brought Julia's book which is fantastic. Can't wait to see your book preview!

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  26. Your corset begins to look good, can't wait to see it finished! And to be able to read your book, too!And my cat also always finds it very funny to lie on the fabric whenever I'm tracing or cutting...
    Not feeling confident enough with my sewing yet, but I might try to make a corset in the future...so thanks for this series of posts!

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  27. I've pre-ordered your book at www.bookdepository.co.uk

    Very excited to receive it over here is Australia! The corset is lookibg amazing.

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  28. I am so unbelievably excited about your book - and even better that it's spiral bound. AND it looks so chunky and full of good stuff.

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  29. Ohhh...your book is in my wishlist on Amazon and getting a quick peak at it makes me want it even more. I love the fact that it is spiral bound so that it can lay flat when open. I am hoping that someone (aka-daughter) will push that buy button from my wishlist. ;-)

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  30. You did an wonderful job!Can't wait to see it finished

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  31. I just stumbled up on your blog. I love it! I recently got in to sewing my own clothes, mainly because I hate what you can get in the store and it never fits. Thanks for this blog! I hope to become a long time reader! :)

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  32. Hi there, I have some great kitsch 50s border fabric that is not large enough for a dress, so I am going to follow your full gathered skirt tutorial. I have been looking around your blog and came across the corsets. I made some last year, after going on a course. Have a look if you like...Rose x

    http://www.thecottoncollective.com/

    The model's bust don't do them justice but I loved finding and working with some gorgeous vintage material.

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  33. Sorry about the anonymous comment!

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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