Tuesday, May 17, 2011

The Daily Dress: Inside a Dior Bodice

Sick of corselets yet? Don't worry, I've always got more to show you! This is the bodice of a Dior ensemble from 1957. I can't seem to find photos of the exterior of the dress, but it was called "Norvege" and was part of "La Ligne Libre" It was a light green organza outfit consisting of this bodice, a skirt, and a petticoat.

According to the V&A, where this piece is housed:
This image shows the interior of a bodice, part of an outfit designed by Christian Dior (1905-57). The full ensemble consists of a skirt and bodice of lightweight organza, which float on a complex under-structure of net and boning in the bodice, and tulle in the skirt.

In-built corsetry was typical of couture garments, particularly for evening wear, so the client could simply step into her garment. In this case, even suspenders for stockings are included.
What I like about this picture is that you can see the binding on the top of the corselet. According to my research, the inner foundation would often be bound at the top with a bias piece of the dress fabric, in case it peeked out. The corselet and the dress would have been tacked together by hand.

Anyone have a picture of this ensemble from the outside? The description says it has a fichu collar and a bouffant skirt.

16 comments:

  1. I am LOVING these "inside peeks" you're posting! Keep it up!

    Also, would you be tempted to do a powernet slip sew-along? I know I could use some shapewear that actually squishes things to where they "should" be a la Spanx, but have no idea where to start...

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  2. What's the differecne between corsets and corselets? Are corselets the babies of corsets? I'm confused.

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  3. Bianca - I've always thought it easiest to think of it in terms of 'bra' verses 'bralette'. One has less structure and is slightly less constricting. A corselette is just what it sounds like, a little corset! Generally made to be not as cinch-tastic, but can still give a bit of oomph to one's silhouette. Hope that helps!

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  4. No such thing as too many corsets. I am really enjoying the 'inside scoop' you are giving us. It is inspiring ideas. I am a self taught seamstress so there is much lacking in my knowledge but all of your posts add to my knowledge and increase my confidence and ideas. Thank you!

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  5. Suspenders for stockings? Those were called garters back in the day. They would make little bumps on your thighs if you had on a nice slim pencil skirt. I think I wore the last ones when I was 14.

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  6. I just love all of these foundation posts - I adore the idea of having underwear built into the garment! I'm thinking of trying something out myself.

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  7. Gertie, you may have seen the dress already, its listed in the catalogue for the V&A's Golden Age of Couture touring exhibition!

    If the V&A blurb on the bodice is correct then this is the is the long version of the dress (the V&A version is the shorter, cocktail length): You need to flick forward to page 313 of the scan (although the magazine page number is 87). Its the second page after the gorgeous floral number set against the red wall.

    Here is a less clear image of that page.

    Not sure if it is what I would imagine from the description or not. Certainly the shoulder straps are not visible in the modelled version but maybe that was intentional. Either way, it must have been sublime to wear!

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  9. PS. Click "Plein ecran" to view full screen and click again to bring up the magnifier

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  10. @Bunny
    Suspenders on this side of the Atlantic, always has been and still is :) and it's a V&A quote so they're of course using the UK term.

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  11. Thanks so much, Molly!

    Bianca, just to add to what Susan said, a corselet is an inner foundation layer that's attached to a dress. A corset is a separate garment. And like Susan said, a corselet is not as cinching as a corset. It doesn't have laces, but it does have boning.

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  12. Awwww... Thanks for not laughing at me. I just started sewing again after years of putting it aside. I'm really enjoying it so far. I just completed a make up bag and a pillow. My next project is a simple shirt.

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  13. There is also a great dress by Dior in Claire Schaeffer's "Couture Sewing Techniques" the Mexico dress from his 1953 collection. The gown is shown on page 192 and the inner corset (which looks almost ecactly like the one youve posted) on 194

    There's an awesome example of the corset bias finished at the top in her book as well, with a full picture of the gown (another Dior, by Yves Saunt Laurent) on p 196

    I'm madly obsessed with making dresses one day that will look fractionally as good on the inside as these gowns!
    I love this little rant you've been on to share the insides of dresses - LOVE it.

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  14. Perhaps your blog should morph into the womenswear version of this one - he takes apart bespoke suits and works out how they are put together.

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/

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  15. I love how beautiful and intricate the inside of this bodice is.

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  16. I love these Dior dress interior images. I am a huge fan of Christian Dior and one of the highlights of my design school education was a trip to Kent State's fashion museum where we were able to look up close at a couple of Dior garments with white gloves on. They are so amazing.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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