Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Powernet Corselets, The Galaxy Dress, and the $475 Slip

Oh, readers. I've been pulled even deeper into the vortex of my obsession with couture dress under-structures since I wrote about corselets made of cotton tulle last week. As you may recall, I quoted a Claire Shaeffer book which listed powernet amongst the recommended materials for corselets, with cotton tulle (also called bobbinet) being the author's favorite. But powernet is also a strong contender, being more readily available than bobbinet and having better figure-controlling properties. (Also, one commenter shared that she had just made a corselet out of powernet! Visit her blog here.)

FYI: Powernet (also called powermesh or powerknit) is a spandex net fabric, which you'll often see in girdles and bra backs. It comes in varying weights from light to heavy duty, so you can choose the amount of compression and control you want. It has much more stretch in the crosswise than lengthwise grain. I've located it online here and here, among other places.

Which brings me to the Galaxy Dress, Roland Mouret's famous design which has launched a thousand knock-offs. When I posted one of Mouret's dresses last week (as worn by the lovely Dita Von Teese), a commenter noted that the Galaxy would have had an inner corselet itself. I don't know why that had never occurred to me. I went on an internet hunt, and found that the Galaxy had a powermesh layer, that some sources describe merely as a "lining," while others make it sound like quite a contraption, like this quote:
The Galaxy's secret is its boned waist 'restrainer' which is made from an elastic fabric first used in 1950's underwear. The French power mesh flattens the stomach, nips in at the waist and gives the wearer a flattering hour glass figure.
Anyway, it seems clear that powermesh was an integral part of the Galaxy's foundation, though perhaps we'll never know the exact construction . . . unless one of you has an old Mouret lying about that you'd like to take pictures of the inside for us?

But the story doesn't end there! In Spring 2010, Mouret debuted a powermesh slip that some claim is the base layer of the Galaxy dress.
In a season of nude illusion and lingerie effects, Mouret also came up with a practical device smartly developed from the "built" underpinning that was the secret ingredient in his famous hourglass Galaxy dress. Now he's selling the underlying power-mesh base as a body-control device in its own right: a skin-toned slip with a zipper in the side. "I think Spanx are great," he said, "until a woman gets home after the party. This gives a guy something to play with." [source]
Herewith the magical item, which can be yours in nude or black for $475.



All I know is that this is a $475 slip. Wait, I also know that powernet costs $8-$10 a yard in the Garment District. Granted, it's probably not "French powermesh," which I'm sure is very fancy, right? Wait, never mind. It's just plain old nylon and spandex, just like any other powernet.

But this is all great news for us sewing plebians. We could come up with our own dresses complete figure-enhancing powernet corselets for a fraction of the Mouret cost! I imagine it would be a regular boned corselet made of powernet that extends into a skin-tight slip on the bottom, don't you think? I'd love to hear your interpretations.

Whew, have you ever heard someone go on and on (and on) about corselets as I do? Anyway, I'm loving the idea of a corselet sew-along, and I'm pondering it for the late summer/early fall when I'll be done with my book. More to come!

44 comments:

  1. Yes, yes, yes to a sew along! Your sew alongs are the best, and I would love to help with finding powernet sources in the Garment District.

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  2. And who says you can't save money sewing? ; )I would need an industrial strength zipper lest I have a wardrobe malfunction and take someone's eye out! lol

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  3. Another vote for the corselet sew-along, that would be awesome!

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  4. I am so in for that sew along.

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  5. I think it sounds like an essential sew-along, every vintage enthusiast needs the right foundation wear after all...

    I have a panty-corselette from early 60s which is of powernet material. Looking at it, its hard to imagine it has much effect, but when its on I am amazed by how much it trims and shapes, its perfect to wear under waspish vintage dresses.

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  6. Gertie, you are just TOO. AWESOME. I would LOVE a corselet/powernet sew-a-long.

    RE: Pretty Kitty -And yes, sewing can save you money. I'm currently plotting making my own version of an eight thousand dollar coat by Ralph Lauren. And yeah, I'd need an industrial strength zipper too. http://peanutbuttermacrame.blogspot.com/2011/05/another-ralph-lauren-obsession-and-nyc.html

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  7. P.S. My corselette has no boning in it just little miracles woven into the seams.

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  8. I would do that sew along for sure. Those are verY hard to find. I shopped up aat Woodbury Commons a few weeks ago and found a similar 1 piece in the Hanes stores at $85 a piece.

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  9. Well, how about that? I just made a bra slip for this year's prom dress for my niece. She wears a 30G and this was a good solution for her gown. I used powernet, too. Now I want one for myself! The perfect thing for summer dresses.

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  10. Firstly, I want to say I love that you're going on and on about corsetlettes! This is something I've geeked out over (aka spent hours studying/sketching/writing down notes) in the distant past, and always love reading up on the nitty-gritty of dress construction anyway. Please, please, please do a sew-along (if you have time, of course! ;)--I know I'd love to jump in and learn how to make these properly; especially since I do tend to make an evening gown every couple years for the Navy Ball. :)

    Anyway, back to the Moret dress. The thought that it had a built-in power mesh lining never occured to me either; and now that I know, it makes sense. How easy would it be to make a power mesh slip?! Probably too easy for those of us that know how to sew. lol. Gee... I could make a whole wardrobe of powernet slips to last me a lifetime for $475! The idea of a boned corsetlette and has a slip extension over the thighs sounds spot-on to me; I believe I've seen something similar somewhere on a designer/couture dress, and it really does make a difference.

    ♥ Casey

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  11. I meant to post the other day, but I also am craving more photos and exhibits where the insides of the couture garments are displayed. Before I learned to sew and couture techniques, I didn't particularly care about costume/fashion exhibitions. Now I can't get enough, but I am dissatisfied because I want to see the insides...hand stitching, foundations, hemming, underlinings, linings.... Ah, if only... I did see an exhibit recently, though, where there was a muslin on display, which was pretty neat.

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  12. I've not signed up for a sew-a-long yet, but I'd be top of the list if you decide to do this slip! What a super idea.

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  13. Yes please to the corselet sewalong! (And, I think it might of been me that was the commenter re: the Galaxy having an inner corselet ;) hehe!)

    Re: pictures of the insides of the original dress - I think last year I saved some pictures from an old eBay listing someone had of an original dress - if I find them when I get home from work tonight I'll email them to you Gertie :)!

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  14. Wow, yes, also love! Sew along for the win!

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  15. Yes to the sew along Gertie! It's so cute that you get so obsessed about sewing!

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  16. I think a powernet sew-a-long would be fun. It's the greatest underlining ever. Imagine underlining a wide waist yoke with powernet and boning, it's a small project, but I imagine with incredibly satisfying results.

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  17. Oh yes please to the sewalong. I can't spend hundreds of dollars on those kind of things but would love to have one.

    I've been obsessed with that other Mouret dress you posted about earlier. (the one Dita wore) I'm making it up with Simplicity 2213. So I'll need something to go under it!

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  18. Sew along? Doooo eeeeet. :) Despite lots of research, lingerie sewing remains a mystery to me and I'd love to see a project like this broken down! Sign me up! :)

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  19. OK if I was to have the option of sewing something that would give me a figure like her!! IM IN!! :) :)

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  20. Mouret's explanation for his slip really rubbed me the wrong way.

    1. Making a shaper that also looks good is not a revolutionary idea. Vintagey stores have a lot of them.

    2. "Gives a guy something to play with"? Srsly? Hey, gals, you can now wear something like Spanx without neglecting your duty to be good playthings to "a guy" "at home after the party"! Gee, thanks, Roland.

    Yes, there are a lot of feminist issues you could raise in this context but frack it, I'm a feminist who thinks that both shapers and lingerie are shiny shiny toys, and if you're trying to sell me some you can at least pretend you don't think I'm a moron.

    3. The $475 slip - not that sexy-looking. In fact, it looks a lot like a Spanx full slip from this picture. So.

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  21. Yes please, I'd love to join in.

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  22. Yes! Yes! I have become enthralled with making better undies and lingerie and really can't stand Spanx. I think they are awfully ugly, uncomfortable, and they make me sweat like crazy. Do you think that the "mesh" would be breathable? That would be a super plus for me.

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  23. Do you know what is best about this post? It is the excitement about your favorite subject that comes on through. It's not just words or style it is tangible. That is what makes your information interesting. Not just that we all like to sew, that we all want to learn the mechanics, but that you reflect our interests. Whether it is undergarments, underpinnings or high fashion. Your enthusiasm is so inspiring. A Sew along would be wonderful if you have time.

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  24. yes to the corselet sew-along!

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  25. Corselet sew-along? I'm in!

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  26. YES YES YES! I am IN for a sew along.

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  27. I would LOVE this sew-along. We all know that undergarment sizes are created by an evil cabal that seeks to inflict discomfort and fury through bizarre assumptions about the shape and size of women's bodies, and I for one think that you just may be the Jeanne D'Arc who triumphantly leads us into battle against this cabal (but without all of the religion and burning).

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  28. Yes, a corselet sew-along please! I've never tried making a Spanx-type garment, and it never occurred to me to make one... until now, that is =)

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  29. There is an entire line of clothing called "Shape Fx" with spandex "shapers" lining the items. They are sold through Spiegel and Newport News. Limited line of clothing, mostly in black. The "Secret Sculptor" (tm) slip is an "all-in-one, body-perfecting shapewear miracle layer." It sells for $64. It would be more fun to make an knockoff of a $450 garment, though. Ladies, have fun.

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  30. Count me in on the corselet sew along - good by muffin top!

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  31. 'sewing plebians' haha love it.

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  32. ^Darn, I only had pics of the outside of his 'Moon' dress :(!

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  33. I'm definitely in for this one. 

    Actually I would love to have a whole wardrobe of these slips.

    Cheers,

    Melissa

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  34. I would LOVE to do a sew-along of that! And I can't wait for your book to come out. Please share an update of the expected release date as soon as you are able.

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  35. I've been getting into wearing slips under my dresses lately for a smoother look and I would LOVE to have a shaper slip like this (or two). Count me in for the sew-along!

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  36. Yes, PLEASE to the sew-along!!! The sooner the better. Wouldn't you need a special machine such as a serger to work with the powerknit, or just a special needle?

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  37. I've never sewed powernet, but I've made simple slips before! (I attempted a boned bodice once, but I didn't make it well enough to want to finish the dress, much less wear it.) But do add my voice to the chorus for a sew along! (And also, a belated thank you for your Garment District tour-along a few weeks ago. I always find that area intimidating & overwhelming & I end up overpaying for things in panic, but your overview of some 'go-to' shops made it much more manageable for me!)

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  38. I remember a couple of years ago Australian Stitches magazine ran a 'how to' article on sewing a powernet foundation/lining for Vogue Pattern 8280 (considered by many to be a knock off of the Galaxy Dress). I don't have the issue anymore. Did anyone else see it?

    PS I'm loving your articles on the insides of garments! Thanks Gertie.

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  39. I love your obsession! Makes me feel normal when I get obsessive over some things (everything) sometimes (all the time)!

    I wear a vintage corselet of my grandmother's and I can't go back to normal bras now so I would love a sew-along to do my own!

    Thank you so much for sharing this!

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  40. I love the idea of making my own, properly fitted foundational garments. I would love to participate in a sew-along, but I do fear such things would require a dress form and skills beyond my intermediate level :\

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  41. I'm in! I think it would be a blast to sew up a foundation garment for beneath my creations. How about we make our own longline bras too? OK, maybe that's a little too ambitious...but I am definitely with you on the inner workings fascination, Gertie. I want to examine the interior of all those fab dresses you've posted thus far, and am always grateful when you have them to show us.

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  42. I'm in! I think it would be a blast to sew up a foundation garment for beneath my creations. How about we make our own longline bras too? OK, maybe that's a little too ambitious...but I am definitely with you on the inner workings fascination, Gertie. I want to examine the interior of all those fab dresses you've posted thus far, and am always grateful when you have them to show us.

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  43. YES YES to a sew along! And I'm so GLAD you go on and on and on about corselets and such stuff, because how else would we know and learn about all this necessary "bones" of garment making?

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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