Thursday, October 18, 2012

Tutorial: The Lilli Ann Collar Inset

Readers, last week I wrote about wanting to replicate the contrast collar trim on the vintage Lilli Ann suit above. And this week I did it! It took a little experimentation, and let me start by saying that there are certainly other ways you could do this. This is the method that worked best for me, my fabric, and my project. It uses an applied bias strip, and depends on your contrast fabric being malleable enough to steam into a curved shape on the bias.

First, I had to decide how to sew the contrast on. There seemed to be two options: seam it into the collar or apply it on top. I chose the second option because my fashion fabric (a boiled wool with black lace fused on top) is much firmer than the black wool crepe contrast fabric. The crepe would not have been compatible being seamed together with the boiled wool. But! When applied on top of the fashion fabric, the crepe was much happier since it had support underneath.

I started by chalking in the line of the trim on the collar facing. It helped me to first draw in my 5/8" seam line so I could picture the actual finished width of the trim. I made my inset about 2" wide at the back and shoulders, tapering to nothing at center front.

Note: these next few photos have been lightened dramatically so you can see the details on the black. 

Next, I cut a really wide bias strip of crepe that was long enough to go around one facing edge, plus about 6" or so. (We'll do this whole thing on the other facing as well, and then the two get seamed together at center back.) I made my strip 6" wide (which is honestly a bit wider than I actually needed), to give it room to stretch around the collar curve.



On your machine, stitch a line of basting 1/4" from one long edge on the bias strip.

With right sides together, match up that line of basting with your chalk line below, pinning exactly on the line. Leave yourself several inches at the top, as the strip will narrow as it goes around the curves.




Now, stitch just to the left of your basting stitches, using a regular stitch length.

Now, the bias strip will get flipped to the right side, like so.

At first, you will see lots of ripples from the bias. Using a press cloth and lots of steam, press your bias strip so that it curves and stretches out around the collar's curve. You can use a tailor's ham to help you.

But the ultimate goal is to get the bias strip to lay completely flat, until it reaches the edge of the fashion fabric at least.


Baste the two layers together inside the seam allowance, by hand. Keep everything as flat as possible.

Once the whole thing is basted, flip the entire piece over and trim away any excess contrast fabric.

Now I'll treat the whole facing as usual going forward.



Here's a peek at the effect, with seam allowances still in tact.


What do you think? I hope this was helpful!

49 comments:

  1. LINDO CASACO
    http://becaeyel.blogspot.com.br/

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  2. Drop dead gorgeous! I am jealous of all your fabulous coats.. :)

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  3. It's looking great!

    Can you shed some light on why you decided to go with a bias strip rather than making a pattern piece the (finished) shape of the trim and using that? (Because that's what I would have done)

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    1. Great question! I did try both ways. The pattern piece way is complicated because you have to sew a concave curve to a convex one (kind of like a princess seam, but much more extreme!). That way would be great if you wanted top stitching. In that case you could turn under the seam allowance, press it, and then edgestitch the whole thing onto the collar.

      With the bias strip, the sewing is easier, there's no stitching showing, and the bias curves nicely around the collar.

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    2. It is absolutely gorgeous.

      Thank you for the well documented instructions, and for this additional note as to your approach.

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  4. lovely. Will you top stitch the contrast or will it require any special pad stitching? It is looking gorgeous. I am feeling some serious coat envy. (But I already have 10+ vintage coats so I am not allowed to buy or make any more. hahah) k.

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  5. C'est magnifique ! I'll never be able sew something like that ! Thanks for all the things you explain here ! I'll try something easy in the near future !
    Have a great day !

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  6. It looks gorgeous!! And many thanks for the tutorial!

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  7. Gertie, this is absolutely stunning! Wow. Wow. Wow. It gives the coat such a classy look and the wide collar now really takes the stage *and* the balance with the wide "skirt" below is much better now.
    Brilliant idea to make it work!

    SabineC

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  8. Such a great application and tutorial!

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  9. You know, I thought I wouldn't like the trim after your poll, but this is just lovely! Wow!

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  10. Love, love, love, love, love, LOVE this!!!! Thanks for sharing, I think I might have to try something like this. I would not have thought of using the bias strip. That does seem like it would be easier to deal with and lay more flat. Again, GORgeous!!!!!

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  11. Hi, I love your idea. Um, this is just my opinion but I wonder if it wouldn't be more flattering having the black trim a little more narrower down the front than it is. I hope that made sense. I'm trying hard not sound critical, because I really love your work, and your blog.

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    1. Hi, I totally agree! I thought I had tapered the shape more so it was narrower. I went back today after I read your comment to check it and all is well. It looks wide in the picture because of the way the facings are haphazardly tucked into the coat temporarily. I think you'll prefer it when it's actually finished. Thank you for the comment!

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  12. That is going to be stunningly beautiful.

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  13. OMG I LOVE this! Love the fashion fabric you've chosen for this. Can't wait to see the finished product!

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  14. In a word- Stunning. really really lovely :)

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  15. Hi, I'm the crazy lady who stopped you on 6th ave yesterday. It was nice to meet you!

    I was in favor of the all black collar. But now see I was wrong! This is just beautiful and what a smart way to approach the application of the contrast collar.

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    1. It was great to meet you too! You're not crazy--always nice to meet a reader! :)

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  16. That is quite lovely! It definitely helps to break up all that lace a bit.

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  17. Positively gorgeous! Thanks for the tutorial.

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  18. This coat just gets more breathtaking with every shot!

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  19. Love it! and love the tutorial! Thank you.

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  20. Absolutely beautiful....I only wish I had a small percent of your talent :)

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  21. This is perfect! Definitely my favourite colour option, and so kind of you to make a mini tutorial on it. This coat is going to be so gorgeous :)

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  22. Sweet! Looks Great~sets your material off beautifully!

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  23. Beautiful with a capital "B." A couture finish for a beautiful piece. I love contrast trims, they elevates the style but also show the design lines clearly.

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  24. I think the black trim just took the whole coat many notches up!

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  25. Wow! Love it! It"s so nice to see such an appreciation for the art of sewing. Thanks Gertie, for all your great info!

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  26. I'm so glad you went for the trim - It breaks up the busy lace so perfectly!

    The coat is turning out to be quite a stunner!

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  27. That black trim is the perfect detail, this coat is going to be sublime!!!

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  28. Oh Thank You Gertie for showing this trim. It's beautiful and I can't wait to get to mine. I really appreciate you showing the steps. I am learning so much.

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  29. Gertie - question. Why did you stay stitch the bias before applying it? I'm wondering what the benefits were - any time I've applied bias bindings like this, I haven't used stay stitches in order to give the binding maximum flexibility. In fact, I often steam the bias into a curve first, to give it 'memory'. Just curious :)

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  30. It looks even better than I thought it would! Can't wait to see the coat all finished!!

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  31. Gertie, your fabric for this coat is spectacular! What a statement drop-dead gorgeous coat this will be.

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  32. Wow, I am in love with your coat. Thank for the instructions. By the way your patterns in your book are with out words fantastic. I am on my second garment from your book.:)

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  33. absolutely gorgeous! You are just so awesome!
    M

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  34. I really think you ought to consider putting a thin line of WHITE along the collar as well, right where you have the basting line! Maybe soutache braid? I agree: the black trim is the best choice for those lapels, but I think a teeny-tiny touch of white would be the "cherry on the sundae" (I was also thinking that matching CUFFS on the sleeves would be nice too! Maybe detachable cuffs?)

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  35. That coat is going to be gorgeous!

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  36. How fabulous! May I ask you something about the sleeves? In your last picture they seem to be arching backwards instead of forwards (following the shape of an arm). Is this because you have pushed them out of the way to show off that beautiful collar? (Just wondering; I've taken pictures of some of my sewn garments and realized I put the sleeves in the wrong way around, doh!)

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  37. Forgive me my previous comment, I have only just now seen the pattern you are using, so never mind!

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  38. Very beautiful.
    I made this dress last weekend too. Using a quick lecture from a friend.

    http://www.stylebybike.com/how-to-sew-a-mini-dress-in-less-than-an-hou/

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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