Tutorial: The Lilli Ann Collar Inset

Readers, last week I wrote about wanting to replicate the contrast collar trim on the vintage Lilli Ann suit above. And this week I did it! It took a little experimentation, and let me start by saying that there are certainly other ways you could do this. This is the method that worked best for me, my fabric, and my project. It uses an applied bias strip, and depends on your contrast fabric being malleable enough to steam into a curved shape on the bias.

First, I had to decide how to sew the contrast on. There seemed to be two options: seam it into the collar or apply it on top. I chose the second option because my fashion fabric (a boiled wool with black lace fused on top) is much firmer than the black wool crepe contrast fabric. The crepe would not have been compatible being seamed together with the boiled wool. But! When applied on top of the fashion fabric, the crepe was much happier since it had support underneath.

I started by chalking in the line of the trim on the collar facing. It helped me to first draw in my 5/8" seam line so I could picture the actual finished width of the trim. I made my inset about 2" wide at the back and shoulders, tapering to nothing at center front.

Note: these next few photos have been lightened dramatically so you can see the details on the black. 

Next, I cut a really wide bias strip of crepe that was long enough to go around one facing edge, plus about 6" or so. (We'll do this whole thing on the other facing as well, and then the two get seamed together at center back.) I made my strip 6" wide (which is honestly a bit wider than I actually needed), to give it room to stretch around the collar curve.

On your machine, stitch a line of basting 1/4" from one long edge on the bias strip.

With right sides together, match up that line of basting with your chalk line below, pinning exactly on the line. Leave yourself several inches at the top, as the strip will narrow as it goes around the curves.

Now, stitch just to the left of your basting stitches, using a regular stitch length.

Now, the bias strip will get flipped to the right side, like so.

At first, you will see lots of ripples from the bias. Using a press cloth and lots of steam, press your bias strip so that it curves and stretches out around the collar's curve. You can use a tailor's ham to help you.

But the ultimate goal is to get the bias strip to lay completely flat, until it reaches the edge of the fashion fabric at least.

Baste the two layers together inside the seam allowance, by hand. Keep everything as flat as possible.

Once the whole thing is basted, flip the entire piece over and trim away any excess contrast fabric.

Now I'll treat the whole facing as usual going forward.

Here's a peek at the effect, with seam allowances still in tact.

What do you think? I hope this was helpful!