Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Underlining Shortcut

So, I've always been a big proponent of not taking shortcuts. I used to machine baste my underlinings with very bad results, so I switched to hand basting and never looked back. Until the Crepe Sew-Along. I've been a little overwhelmed lately: work has been crazy and I had the never-ending cold. I desperately wanted to get caught up on my sew-along posts but had to do all the painstaking hand basting of the underlining that I instructed you all to do.

Readers, here's my confession: I glued the underlining! This will no doubt sound wacky and ill-advised. But I came across the tip in Claire Shaeffer's The Complete Book of Sewing Shortcuts, and she's a lady I respect. So I cut the fashion fabric and batiste underlining out separately, and laid out the fashion fabric pieces, wrong side up. Make tiny dots of fabric glue (I used a brand called Sobo, pictured above) in the seam allowances every couple inches. Lay the batiste piece on top and run your hands over the top of the fabric to make sure it's secured. Set the pieces aside to dry. Done!

I will say that this method doesn't work well with an organza underlining because the glue seeps through the organza and makes a mess.

Shaeffer's philosophy is that shortcuts are good things. If they make life easier and do the job well, what's the harm?

Have any favorite shortcuts of your own?

33 comments:

  1. Are you aware of the method where you can underline and Hong Kong finish your garment at the same time (well, only the vertical seam)? It involves cutting the underlining 3 cm bigger than the shell, securing both, pressing and sewing as usual. A great trick.

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  2. Well, shortcuts are good provided that facilitate your work and be successful, and that you are the expert, I admire your perfect job.

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  3. I have been doing this for years and love the technique. The trick is to use the tiniest of dots. It does work like a charm. I learned it from a very respected dressmaker in NH.

    I have also "flat lined" my garments as well as lin3arossa suggests. It gives a lovely finishe but only works on vertical seams, therefore good for pants and pencil skirts.

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  4. Short cut? Sounds more like an innovation to me!

    I didn't quite understand how lin3arossa's HKG seam trick would work. I'd love more details on flat lining garments.

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  5. I have done that before, DP Coffin also mentions glue stick in the shirt book. Lovely fabric, btw.

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  6. the method for lining and hongkong finish at the same time, is in "Dressmakers handbook of couture sewing techniques. Basically, you cut the lining 3 cm larger than the fabricpiece you need lined, then you match up the edges right side to rigth side, stitch 1/4 inch from the edge, turn the resulting fabric tube inside out, so the the lining and the fabric are each the right side out. Press the lining fabric around the edge and stitch in the ditch. Then asseble the fabric pieces.
    Hope this is clear as mud
    Tania

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  7. I realize you're busy and not feeling well -- when I saw this entry in my Google Reader, I thought, Having a blog is like a second job -- but having said that, I'm not a fan of shortcuts, especially for beginners.

    When I started evening sewing classes I often would not get as good results with shortcuts, for example, pinning rather than basting. (I also was sewing on very fast industrial machines.)

    Some students with more sewing experience -- I had virtually none -- used to laugh at me. Now, my work looks a lot cleaner than some of theirs, which is important to me because I'm learning to sew for myself. The contractor will be me.

    It takes great patience to learn to sew the right way and if you don't develop the discipline at the start, you may never.

    Fabric glue is fine for one-time costumes and insignificant projects.

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  8. I wonder how the spray adhesive for quilt basting would work. It washes away and you could basically just turn the two pieces of fabric into one. I have no problem with shortcuts as long as the finished piece is still a quality garment (with you as the maker I am sure it will be!)

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  9. I really like this idea, a lot! (Especially since Claire Schaeffer advocates it; and she's got far more sewing experience than I! ;) I think it would definitely come in handy for projects that are on a bit of a time crunch or require underlining large amounts of fabric. After all: who will be the wiser once the dress is finished? ;)

    Hope you feel better soon! :)

    ♥ Casey | blog

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  10. A bit off topic BUT would I have better results chopping off the cap sleeve AFTER I'm done assembling the dress or leaving it off all together? I will look like a linebacker with those sleeves!

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  11. Hi all! Here's a really good explanation for flatlining:

    http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?readreview=1&ID=1044

    I haven't tried it yet, but I really want to!

    Anonymous, I agree that it's important to learn the traditional way of doing things first. And if you're not getting good results with a shortcut, you shouldn't do it. But, like I said, if the results are as good or better, I really don't see the harm.

    It's not like the glue is holding the garment together. It's just a temporary baste before the seams get sewn.

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  12. Does the glue wash out once the dress is all assembled? Or is it a permanent thing? Short cuts that work are good in my book. Cutting corners, no, but sensible short cuts, definitely yes!

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  13. In the sewing room we have to use shortcuts to raise productivity, often times I sew the lining together into a tuck instead of hemmin all the layers of crinoline at the bottom of a bridal gown. However we have some pretty s.t.a.u.n.c.h. old-school seamstresses who preach it takes longer to fix something than do it right the first time. Shortcuts work now and again, but as long as it doesn't compromise wearability I think it's fine.

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  14. I do understand. What's that adage? "The long way is the short way." However, some things take entirely toooooooo long. I mean, are we ever supposed to wear anything we make and work full time and run a small business on the side and answer emails and have sewalongs and.....not that I'm complaining as life would be so terribly dull without all of these things. But I'm all for a good shortcut. Much thanks for this shortcut tip. And for the book tip. I need that book. Does she by chance mention how to get home faster from work so as to be able to sew more?

    xoxo,
    Sunni

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  15. For years, I've been doing the same thing, only w/spray basting adhesive. Faster & easier! Sold in the quilting area of most sewing stores. It's repositionable for a few minutes, works great on light fabrics & well-enough on heavy fabrics. Doesn't seep thru at all, dries fast. Friends told me about this trick & I've never looked back :-)

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  16. Abbeyshane, did you make a bodice muslin? Because that's really the best time to make pattern changes. I wouldn't suggest lobbing any part of the pattern off without seeing it on. I suppose it's a change you could make in your first fitting, but remember that you'll also have to adjust the sleeve facings.

    woolcat, the type of glue I used does wash out. It's not permanent. But always check the label on the bottle - there are so many kinds out there! You want something specifically for fabric.

    Sunni, I'm looking for instructions on cloning myself so I can be at work and sew at the same time. :)

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  17. My method is to use quilters spray baste,I haven't had a problem with it ...so far!

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  18. That does sound like a good time-saver, however I do recall Vixen Vintage complaining about vintage dresses being hemmed with that sticky tape and just causing big problems later on. I guess you just have to weigh up the pros and cons!

    I don't comment often, but adore your work and your style, gertie!

    xx

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  19. I short cut- whenever I can!
    I made simplicity 3782 for Halloween (Good Queen Bess)
    and I fully admit to gluing in the boning with liquid stitch like the cheater that I am :)

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_fHsnZLh6CdU/TTB3Rn-ijDI/AAAAAAAAABo/sQnr31Nsp9Y/s1600/IMG_4520.JPG

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  20. Thank you for having the guts to try this. I will keep it in mind. Whenever I hear about gluing fabric I am skeptical but this post has caused me to rethink it.

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  21. I've always been a leery also to try this, but if it's good enough for you AND Claire Shaeffer, then, it definitely is good enough for me! Thanks for sharing. Love, love, love your blog.

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  22. Woooo for shortcuts! I have always wanted to try fabric glue but have never actually gotten around to getting it. Can you use it for hems? Because I hate doing the hem!!

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  23. I have used the spray adhesive used for quilt layering for years. You do have time to reposition before it sets. Some brands wash out others just dissipate with time. Remember to be in a well ventilated area and protect your table, mat whatever from over-spray and you will be pleased. For very specific areas to be secured, the glue is probably the better option because the control is better.

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  24. I do not think you will find glue used in the couture workrooms. I mean, Chanel even banned sewing machines, because a true couture garment is hand sewn.

    It really depends on what you want to achieve - a couture garment - no glue.
    A wearable garment - glue away!

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  25. Considering my handsewing abilities, I think the glue may work out better... So, you cut out both the underlining and the fashion fabric and put the glue on the fashion fabric and carefully line them up? Just want to be sure about the order of glueing and cutting. Thanks!

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  26. When I do french seams, I serge the inside seam, rather than stitch it.

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  27. I use a washable stick of glue instead of pins on anything where the pins will distort : zippers, rounded corners, appliqué, it's not a shortcut for me, it's an aid.

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  28. Since someone asked about using quilt basting spray in the comments: When I'm using organza as underlining or interfacing, I generally use a can of temporary fabric adhesive spray. It works like a charm.

    The only trouble is that I sometimes have to reposition large pieces, because the fabric flops over and starts sticking to the wrong spot. I may try Gertie's suggestion for the large pieces, and keep using the spray for small ones (collar/sleeve interfacing, etc.).

    It's always seemed to wash out OK on my projects, but I advise testing it on your fabric, just to be certain.

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  29. Claire Shaeffer is a Goddess and if she told me jumping off a bridge would improve my sewing project, I would do it.

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  30. Just want to plant a seed about your never ending cold. Please be sure that you don't have Whooping Cough. It won't go away for a long time without anti-biotics. I caught it, and figured it out b/c everyone around me (who had their Tetanus up to date, and therefore a pertussis vaccination) wasn't getting sick. Watch out!

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  31. I've never tried the glue for underlining. It sounds like a good shortcut. Claire is wonderful. I don't have the shortcut book.

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  32. I use Elmer's School Glue and it is washes out. I cut a tiny hole at the tip and then a pencil sacrificed its eraser into which I poked a hole. The eraser fits right over the tip and keeps the glue from drying out.

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  33. I just finished a pair of wool-blend pants using the flat lining technique. Threads Magazine, Aug/sept 1982, #12, page 58-59. The article is also in Taunton's "Beyond the Pattern" and on the Threads archival DVD. It is wonderful that people enjoy this technique outlined in my article.
    patsijean/Patricia Clements

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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