yellow dress, except that I swapped out the pleated bust and draped a bra-cup top in its place!
The fabric is a very cool cotton/linen woven in blue and white, that forms a diagonal zigzag pattern. It's fairly heavy, like a tweed.
And the innards: Blue rayon lining and a white grosgrain waist stay.
bra cups that were stitched to the underlining. I wasn't totally happy with the outcome. They can create some weird rippling at the top of the bodice. Enter bust padding! I got to wondering if I could use light padding for modesty and to create subtle shaping of the bra cups. I found my answer in the bustier section of the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Here's how I applied it to my project.
First, I sewed all the bust pieces together.
Then the bodice gets stitched up, and the one-inch seam allowance on the top gets turned down as the facing. The nice thing about the padding is that it creates a subtle shaping at the top of the bra cups, as the seam allowance gets folded over the padding's edge.
Okay, one last thing: the boning situation. I went a little lighter on this dress than the yellow dress since the straps provide more bodice support. There are just two sets of bones. One is in the side seams, set into boning channels (in blue). That extra boning length will get cut down to fit, of course.
Whew! That was a lot! Long story short, I'm loving my new blue dress and I got to try out some cool new construction tricks. Let me know if you have questions or additional tips!