So remember this little book called Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing? And how I'm supposedly on a journey of making all 14 fashions from it? Well, the journey took a little detour, but I've decided that it's time to get back on track!So here's my plan to shake things up. I think I'm going to skip forward a couple patterns to the background dress. Mostly because it's a long-sleeved dress and it's the dead of winter here. And I have the pattern in a 34" bust size, which isn't too hard for me to size up to fit me.
So I'm TEMPORARILY skipping over the little girl's party dress (which I've decided is boring because apparently I'm a selfish seamstress - like some other people - and I don't feel like making clothing that isn't for me).
I'm also skipping (for now) the full-skirted dress which I LOVE but is more spring-like and I unfortunately could only find in a bust size 32" which sounds impossibly tiny to me. I know I'll have to do some pattern grading, and I'd like to put that off as long as possible.
So the background dress it is! It's a lovely frock on the model, though I do worry about a potential dowdiness factor in real life. Here's the pattern:
What do you think? Any tips for fitting and styling this so it's not too dowdy?VoNBBS includes directions for making the coordinating scarf, as well as the little double button doohickey that you see the on the upper righthand illustration. (Jeez, those poor ladies on the perimeter only have half a head each!) VoNBBS suggesting making this in a navy silk faille, so when I saw that the Vera Wang navy faille was $1.95 a yard on Fabric.com, I snapped it up. It's rayon and cotton - not silk - but who can pass up a bargain like that?!
BUT. Is navy a mistake with this dress, do you think? Is that a one-way ticket to Dowdsville? Should I think about a jewel tone instead? Help!
I'll be making a muslin this weekend. Woo hoo! Feels good to be back on track.
I love the pattern and as a big fan of navy I would say that it isn't dowdy at all. You could always pair it with a bright red scarf or shoes to make it stand out. I also think if the pattern is relatively form fitting it will counteract any potential dowdiness.
ReplyDeleteI think to un-dowd it you could make that v-neck low enough to almost hit the top of your cleavage, and taper in the skirt (which you were going to do anyway-- when you pointed out that touch, I was like, OHHHHHH). Maybe you could make a little bustle action or kickpleat ruffle in the back. Maybe you could do a facing in acid green or something. Or make the sleeves 3/4 or somewhere thereabouts.
ReplyDeleteJust wanna say, I admire your sewing and blog so much!
I love the pattern and Navy is a staple color in my closet. I love to sew this kind of thing, but add details. Maybe you could do kind of a nautical thing and try fitting in some white piping or buttons somewhere. The nautical look is huge here in CA in the spring, no matter what year it is, it may be different in NY. I also like the idea of the red contrast.
ReplyDeleteI have hardly in my life worn anything in navy because that was the colour of my school uniform. To make it a bit more funky could you adapt the tapered Jenny skirt design that you recently blogged about?
ReplyDeleteI have hardly in my life worn anything in navy because that was the colour of my school uniform. To make it a bit more funky could you adapt the tapered Jenny skirt design that you recently blogged about?
ReplyDeleteAt 1.95 a yard, GO FOR IT. It will be loverly. I am floored by how much the model in the background dress looks like my aunt's old barbie doll. Teeeeny weeeeeny. Methinks pizza was not as accessible back then.
ReplyDeleteFirst of all I'm really impressed about your patience to sew (almost) all the pattern in the book. This is a great project!
ReplyDeleteRegarding the dress, I think you could go with the navy fabric and pair it with accessories (handbag, gloves,...) in a contrasting color to avoid dowdiness. I personally could also envision the dress in a lightweight charcoal prinstripe suiting. In this case I would make the version with the bow and use black or red silk satin for the bow to add a little pizzaz.
Greetings from Germany
Barbara
I think this is probably my most favouritest pattern in the book. And did I mention I have the book now? I am very excited. Anyway, for heaven's sake, make it in navy. You'll never know until you try. You could make the funnel neck facings in another colour, say a navy-and-white print. Obviously shorten the skirt.
ReplyDeleteI'm considering how to making this from a modern pattern - what about V8633?
Ooh, it's a lovely pattern. As far as dowdiness goes, I think you'll be okay depending upon how you do the neckline. Because of the shape of the dress, tying the scarf in a bow like the bottom right illustration, could possibly add frump to the dress, especially with less structured fabrics, if that makes sense. I personally like the top right and bottom left illustrations. The details are lovely. The whole design is very sleek. It will look great. :)
ReplyDeleteI'm sure you'll shorten the skirt to your preferred length, which will help a lot on the dowdiness. Beyond that, I think it'll have to do with how you accessorize it: I like the suggestions for bright colors in analogous or triadic schemes (lime green, hot pink, red-orange). Go for really funky shoes and you'll be just fine!
ReplyDeleteI actually think it'll be lovely. You'll probably want to shorten it a bit for a more modern length, but it shouldn't be a problem, really.
ReplyDeleteAs for the little girls' dress, well, it should be the easiest of the lot, anyway. (Or so says me, who spends most of her sewing time making baby, toddler, and little girls' clothes for nieces!)
As Fashion Theorist says, I think you'll come a long way with shortening the skirt. I don't know how you feel about changing the pattern too much in regards to "staying true" to the pattern and VoNBBS, but I agree on the 3/4 sleeve. Maybe that's because I love 3/4's and with a rather tight/proper/concealing neckline I prefer shorter sleeves to avoid the monotonous front (as usual, not very good in explaining myself...). Rather than altering the pattern too much, I'd pair the dress up with a light blue cardigan, or maybe change the colour of the belt. And dashing shoes (which I trust you'll do anyway).
ReplyDeleteWell, since you asked, maybe a way to keep it from being too dowdy is to pick a fabric with a subtle print or with a texture. I'm not so excited about navy, especially since you have dark hair. What about a brighter color, not red or yellow or anything but maybe something in between. I like that button detail though, I think you should do that one. I'm excited to see how this turns out.
ReplyDeleteooh ive been looking forward to this one! im sure you will make it look amazing!
ReplyDeleteOh I'm so excited! I'm a new reader toyour blog! Can't wait to see the outcome!
ReplyDeleteWhen I first saw the pattern pic, I thought, black wool jersey. I would have to see the details of the pattern,but like the idea of the wool jersey drape paired with the style. I, also, bought the navy faille for the great price, and question if it is too stiff for this particular dress, but again I am going just by the pic. Good luck.
ReplyDeleteI think if you had a really conservative personality or workplace that the navy would work for you but since you don't :) I'm thinking you need to find a more vibrant color to use for this.
ReplyDeleteAnd I agree with Cindy that VW faille is a little too stiff to get the proper drape for this dress. You need something more like a ltwt wool crepe or a medium wt silk crepe or even a doubleknit. The skirt is just not going to flow well with the VW faille.
Finally pick a coordinating bright color or small print for the scarf. It will add some oomph to the finishing touch.
It will be interesting to see what you finally choose to go with for this dress!
Tapering the skirt is a great idea, and perhaps adding some razor-sharp kickpleating in the back.
ReplyDeleteAnna at pleasantview schoolhouse often has lovely interpretations of vintage patterns.
http://pleasantviewschoolhouse.blogspot.com/2010/01/striped-cotton-dress-vintage-simplicity.html
http://pleasantviewschoolhouse.blogspot.com/2009/08/cotton-dress-vintage-butterick-4575.html
http://pleasantviewschoolhouse.blogspot.com/2007/09/vintage-thirties-housedress-hollywood.html
I hoped this dress out doing great, love the Navy, but you could give it a more lively in color, purple, for example. . I hope the outcome with anxiety
ReplyDeleteHrrm.... I wouldn't use navy for that dress. Will look too much like a school uniform. I'd use some sort of print and wear a scarf with it like the picture in the book. I've tried making dresses like that in the past... and I have to say they can be very frumpy and unflattering if you're not careful. Make sure it's really tight fitting and try to make the neckline as low as you possibly can!
ReplyDeleteIt's all about how you style it up! I love taking something that seems unwearable or dowdy and actually making it look chic or cool. I think it will be great on you :)
ReplyDeleteUm, Gertie, I don't think you could look dowdy if you TRIED. Love the double button detail. LOVE IT. Especially with some seriously SPARKLY buttons.
ReplyDeleteNavy is the chicest colour ever - IMO. Half my wardrobe is navy. And it looks great with hot pink or silver. So you could accessorize with those colours...
ReplyDeleteI think you would look beautiful in any color, but that dress in navy says, "nun," to me - sorry! I think it would be gorgeous in green or purple. I like to save navy for less conservative dresses. Can't wait to see it!
ReplyDeletePurple would also be a nice colour choice, but don't forget you could always add some kicky scarves.
ReplyDeleteIn terms of fitting, looks like it's fairly tailored as it is, just make sure it fits you well in the shoulders and esp the upper arm - taking a centimetre or two out of upper arms can really do amazing things!
I think the dress is beautiful and classic. Going with a fab belt and amazing shoes should dispel any doudy thoughts folks might get. Go for it.
ReplyDeleteI am new to sewing. I bought a Kenmore sewing machine about a year ago on a whim. I'm pretty crafty, meticulous, and willing to learn. I can make my own bias trim (yay, for me), simple pillows, and banners, but I am SO afraid to make a piece of clothing! Is there a simple clothing item I can make to get the ball rolling? Any advice?
ReplyDeleteDon't you love how some vintage patterns go to extremes like that when recommending fabrics. I bought a 40's pattern recently, my oldest pattern so far, suggested materials are
ReplyDelete"linen-like rayons
Navy blue or cocoa brown rayon crepe.
Rose spun rayon polka dotted with white.
Fine checked rayon jersey in black and white.
Sheer rayon fabric in aqua, printed with a fern design in deeper aqua."
Wow
Also I don't get the poplar opinion on the blogosphere that sizing patterns is something to be avoided. Sounds like fun to me.
Can't wait to see the VoNBBS pieces you make
Oooh, purple! I like that idea! I have a swatch of a deep purple wool crepe that would actually be perfect. I might have to think on that . . . Thanks for the inspiration!
ReplyDeleteAnd I think I might even model the skirt after my Jenny skirt, like someone suggested.
Good ideas, everyone! I knew you'd have good advice!
Ribbons Undone, why don't you start with a simple straight skirt?
Ribbons Undone.
ReplyDeleteMy first piece of clothing I made was a wrap around kimono top thing from Burdastyle called Desira back in the old days when it was offered for free. It is $3 now which is not so expensive. The pattern was very simple to follow and no zipper or buttonholes to worry about.
http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/desira
OOooooooo....make it navy and pipe it in either lavender or a lime-y sage!! (I've had a dress in my head in these colors for the LONGEST time....)
ReplyDeletedefinitely shorten the skirt though...and the sleeves to at least 3/4....
but yeah, even then...in a dark color it might still scream 'sensible enough for a funeral'....
What about taking it out of the background arena, and doing it in a kinda bold print?
I would stick with the navy, but add an inverted pleat in the front in a contrasting and vibrant fabric (maybe striped). I would also use the contrasting fabric as cuffs on the sleeves (shortened of course) and inside the lapel of the stand-up collar. You can always create the bow in that fabric as well, if you want a bigger splash at the neck some days.
ReplyDeleteRibbons Undone, the first 'clothing' items I made were doll clothes. You get all the technique and sometimes problems with them that you do with people clothes, only in miniature.
ReplyDeletePants are a good first project. Lounging pajama pants with elastic waistband. :)
So glad to see VonBBS is back: I had been missing it! Plus the background dress is one of my favs, so I'm thrilled by your new project. I love the design and I think that shortening the sleeves would be sufficient to update it (but to me, using the jenny pattern is really a bit like cheating... maybe for a second project?)Playing with facings is a nice suggestion too.
ReplyDeleteI love navy, but the fabric on the pattern enveloppe seems way more drapey than faille, doesn't it? Plus, to me, the stiffer the fabric, the less modern the look... If you had to pick a different fabric, a bright red or purple would be so nice! And I'm eager to see which colors and pattern you'll pick for the matching accessories.
My first thought was also to go the way of chic nautical details (white piping or buttons). If you decorate it too obviously though, it won't be a background dress any more!
ReplyDeleteI prefer the idea of the purple wool crepe ;)
Ribbons Undone - I am also new to sewing, and completed my first project earlier this week. It was a cowl neck top using a Selfish Seamstress pattern. (The reference and my progress report are on my blog, if you are interested in trying something like that.)
Okay, I'm late in the commenting game, but just wanted to throw my two cents in. ;) I can see what you mean about the dress teetering on the edge of dowdiness; it's a great design, but if it's not handled correctly could come out more frumpy than retro-cute. I'd say go with a brighter color that is more you than navy; I think it would do loads for this style of you did a gorgeous jewel-tone! Also, shortening the skirt to your favorite length would help update it and make it more wearable (or, as I like to put it: desirable-wearable; meaning something that you want to wear! ;).
ReplyDeleteI am so excited you're getting back to the VoNBBS project! Can't wait to see what this one looks like--I'm sure you'll make it look so glam! ;)
♥ Casey
blog | elegantmusings.com
It is a very 'grown up' dress isn't it. I think the suggestions made for altering the skirt sound perfect. One idea I had would be to make the scarf out of a crazy print - such as flamingoes or spacemen etc. Not enough to ruin the ladylike quality of the dress just enough to add a touch of fun and whimsy.
ReplyDeleteHmm... a potentially lovely dress but personally I'd go for either cream or a bright colour like coral so the lines and details show up.
ReplyDeleteHey!
ReplyDeleteWhy not yellow? Or is it just a stupid, end-of-working-day suggestion of mine?
I love this pattern, and I think that navy would be a great choice, accenting with brighter colors in the belt, scarf and/or shoes, of course. Although, I do like the sound of purple, especially a deep purple. I definitely think it needs to be a rich/deep color. I'm glad I don't have to decide this, too much pressure ;)
ReplyDeleteAlso, I second (or third, or whatever number we are on) for the 3/4 length sleeves. Good luck!
I think the navy sounds great, and I don't think the color or dress will be dowdy at all. I'm sure with the fit standards you have, it'll look great on and if you need to spruce up the "background" dress, I'm sure you have the pair of shoes to do so!
ReplyDeletePersonally I think teal does a great job of kicking up navy -- maybe you could make the scarf or lining out of a teal fabric?
ReplyDeleteI think you could rock this dress in plenty of colors, but I do really like the idea of the navy. With the modifications you are making to un-dowdy the otherwise fabulous shape (I have been looking forward to the Background Dress!), I think navy would be quite striking. I avoided navy most of my life; it had these prissy, chilly, uptight connotations for me (apparently nuns & school uniforms for everyone else). Then I discovered, a) it looks better on me than black or brown, and b) there's something oddly, appealingly subversive about un-WASPing the navy, if you know what I mean. I don't know that I have been entirely successful with that, but I really think on younger, artier folk, navy can be really visually interesting-- it can make an eye-catchingly unexpected contradiction in visual cues. So I like the navy idea; I know you'd make & style it in an interesting way!
ReplyDeleteThat said, this dress definitely says wool crepe or jersey to me. I was surprised they recommended silk faille. That's just such a completely different dress than I had in my head.
Navy would be great, but maybe take it a bit brighter for your coloring, towards the royal blue. I agree with Carolyn, maybe double knit or the wool crepe, something flowy. Definitely 3/4 sleeves, too.
ReplyDeleteWhy is it called a background dress? Anybody know? Does VoNBBS say?
ReplyDeleteI love navy! It was even one of my school uniform colors, and yet I never got sick of it. If you ask me, I say making that dress in navy will be classic, not at all dowdy (though the school uniforms definitely *were* that, it just had nothing to do with the color). A great pair of shoes in an unexpected shade will liven the look right up.
ReplyDeleteI like to wear navy when I want to be taken seriously.... if I were making this dress right now it would be an emerald green or maybe even ruby. And for a summer version I would try out what was mentioned before. Navy with a nautical theme and 3/4 sleeves.
ReplyDeleteI bought some of that $1.99/yd lavender label cotton/rayon faille and it is the weirdest fabric ever. It really does have a school uniform quality, because it it's in between navy and black, and because it's weirdly stiff (not crisp). That said, if anybody can make this work it's you. I don't think school uniformishness is necessarily a bad thing anyhow. And I agree with the poster who said that you couldn't look dowdy if you tried. I very much admire your sewing talent and your sense of style.
ReplyDeleteThis is such a beautiful project. I can see the dress in a lighter yellow like the one here... http://www.perkuponline.com/50s-buttercup-yellow-shirtwaist-dress-p-393.html
ReplyDelete