Hallo from Vienna

I made it! It's been a fantastic three days in in beautiful Vienna. Thank you all so much for your recommendations on what to see and do here; it's been immensely helpful.

As soon as I got to my hotel, I saw a lovely dirndl in the lobby. It really is the land of dirndl!

This one is by Dirndl Herz, and I really love the unusual fabric and the way the apron is draped on the mannequin.

After a nap, one of the first things I did was visit Lena Hoschek's boutique. It's quite tucked away in the MuseumsQuartier, on a little side street.

The shop is cozy but packed with beautiful things.

Here's the adorable salesgirl, who spoke perfect English and even gave recommendations on vintage shops.

I might have left with that blue dress and a couple other things too.

Next up: cake! Cafe Landtmann came highly recommended from a commenter, and it was every bit as wonderful as anticipated. In fact, I've gone three times in three days.

I cannot get enough of this gorgeous cake, the Landtmann Feine Torte.

 And the coffee!

The next two days were a Sunday and a National Holiday, so all shops were closed. This got me to do some cultural things like visit the Sisi Museum.

I took some pictures of the wigs that showed her hairstyles and one beautiful dress, before I was rebuffed by a guard (whoops).

I also went to MAK and saw this gorgeous piece of embroidery.

But perhaps my favorite thing I saw was this giant pink bunny near the Opera House.

After posting it on Instagram, I learned from a helpful commenter that it's a big 3D representation of Albrecht Dürer's Hare made to promote last year's Dürer exhibit at the Albertina. So much better in pink! (If you ask me.) It was also mentioned on Instagram that it's available in smaller form in the museum gift shop, so . . .

It's perfect for my sewing room shelf! I did go through the museum as well, of course, including the Munch exhibit, which was so perfectly dark and pained. Wonderful!

The city bike system here has been really handy (aside from the fact that the stations can fill up so it's hard to return your bike sometimes). But I highly recommend using a bike to get around Vienna. There are great bike lanes and beautiful sights all around.

It's even fantastic at nighttime since all the bikes are equipped with lights. I got to see this amazing light show at the Natural History and Art History museum, which projected colorful patterns onto the facades on the buildings.

 The next day is all about fabric, fashion, and dirndls, so I will have much more to report!

Upcoming: Vienna and Munich

Well, I was so taken by Austria and Germany (particularly the traditional fashion) that I've jumped on an opportunity to make a return trip. Soon. Like in two days. I'll be spending half my time in Vienna and then heading to Munich.

I went to Vienna this summer on my Europe trip with my mom, for about 12 hours. Obviously it struck a chord! I got to do a quick walking tour, visit Schönbrunn Palace, and go to a Mozart concert. It just gave me a taste, and I'm going back to see things that are more personal to my interests. And this will be my first time in Munich.

One of my primary purposes is to do fashion and fabric research, and I want to see all the dirndls I possibly can. Obviously I will be visiting the boutiques of some of my favorite designers like Lena Hoschek, Julia Trentini, and Noh Nee. I'll visit some traditional houses like Gössl, and stare inside the dirndls to better understand the boning and construction.

Lena Hosheck store in Vienna

I'm also excited to see a couple museums like the Sisi Museum, to see some gowns that belonged to Empress Elisabeth, and the Fashion Collection at the Wien Museum.

Gown at the Sisi Museum

And of course I'm looking forward to some of that amazing Viennese espresso and cake. I had to take a picture of mine when I was there with my mom!

I'd really love some recommendations beyond all this, readers. Fabric stores, vintage shops, interesting designer boutiques, shoe stores, restaurants, museums, sights, etc! Please share your favorite inspiring places in Vienna and Munich.

Poodle Blouse!

Here's another version of B6217, this time in flocked poodle chiffon! This is one of my new fall fabrics, available here. I love flocked fabrics so much, and poodles just make everything better.

For this version of the blouse, I left off the bust ties and used the puff sleeve rather than the tulip sleeve. I added pom pom trim around the neckline and sleeves and a little black velvet bow at the center. I made a little alteration to the puff sleeve: it was a little big around the hem, so I added some gathers to the sleeve hem as well.

I paired it with store-bought capris (Modcloth!) and two-tone black and white Bass Weejuns. Retro Casual!

Chiffon can be tricky to sew, of course. I used French seams for a nice finish on the inside. For the facings, I used this technique of "facing a facing" which gives a really clean edge. I used plain grey chiffon, interfaced with grey tulle. Here is the facing, pinned to the neckline. 

This gave a nice sheer finish from the outside.

I wore a camisole underneath but I might try being super daring and just wear a bra sometime. Anyway, I'm so in love with these little flocked poodles!

Cover Reveal! Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book

I've been so excited to blog this one because I am IN LOVE with this cover! My next book, Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book, is now up on Amazon for pre-order. It's releasing in March 2016.

Here's a little info on the book:

Every vintage-obsessed sewist dreams of having a closet full of gorgeous dresses. The follow-up to the popular Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing and Gertie Sews Vintage Casual, Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book is packed with all the information and patterns you could ever need to create a wardrobe filled with stunning vintage frocks. The book begins with all the essential techniques for dressmaking and includes instructions and patterns for 23 dresses for a variety of occasions. Elements of each pattern can be mixed and matched, allowing readers to customize the bodice, skirt, sleeves, pockets, and details of each dress for a truly unique creation.

The dress on the cover is called the Emerald Faille Party Dress and it's made from an amazing silk faille. It has a super structured boned bodice and very full skirt: it's a circle skirt with box pleats all around. The skirt and bodice are basic patterns included with the book, and then I show you how to make your own special details for each dress, like the halter strap (it closes with little rhinestone buttons in the back) and the bias band that goes across the bodice. There are tons of construction techniques like lining, underlining, using horsehair on hems and necklines, working with lace and beaded fabrics, and lots more.

I can't wait to show you more from the book!

P.S. Did you spot Henry on the cover?

Making a Quilted Skirt, Part 2

First, some vital information: Here's part 1 of this tutorial! And here are pictures of the finished skirt.

Okay, at this point in the process you have the front skirt, with quilted lines going on the bias in one direction. I marked your original line with blue painters tape, and used a quilting guide on a walking foot to keep the rest of the lines even.

Now we need to do the criss-crossing lines. They should start at the same point in the opposite corner of the skirt, and be perfectly perpendicular to your first set of lines. You can check this with a clear ruler.

Use the blue tape to stitch your first line, and then your quilting foot guide to make the rest of the lines. You'll have a nice and neat grid.

Now to quilt the back pieces. Use the same method of marking the first lines with blue tape. Start the tape in the upper corners like you did with the skirt front, and have the lines go at a 45 degree angle. Make sure that they will meet at the same point in the center back, in a V shape.

Quilt the two back pieces in both directions. Now all three pieces are quilted!

Now it's time to sew the side seams. Place the back pieces right sides together with the front piece. Match the quilting lines as best you can by using a pin as a guide. Poke the pin through the fabric, and then adjust the two layers of fabric until the pin is going through the two lines of stitching that you are matching up.

Next, sew the center back seam, but only up to the point where the zipper will be inserted.

Press all seam allowances open.

I chose Hong Kong seams for my skirt, and used the contrast quilting fabric. Finish all seams, including the back zipper opening.

Insert a zipper at center back. I used my favorite method, the lapped zipper.

Next, I cut the waistband, leaving seam allowances and 1" for an underlap. The waistband is 1.5" wide when finished.

I used a nonwoven medium weight interfacing on my waistband. To give a slightly different look, I used 1/4" channel stitching on the waistband. This provides both stability and visual interest.

I sewed on the waistband, leaving the 1" underlap at the right back. The waistband closes with a hook and eye.

I turned up a narrow hem, and finished the raw edge. Hem lace is perfect for this purpose.

I finished the hem with a slip stitch, stitching the lace to the inside of the skirt.

And that's it! You have a cozy, perfectly '50s-style quilted skirt!

Finished! Butterick 6167 in Flocked Faille

I'm also calling this the "Meta Dress" because it has little dresses flocked on it! Dresses on dresses, readers. YES. This is my pattern design B6167 done up in my new flocked faille, just out at Joann.

I did make a couple changes to the pattern. First, I used a contrast fabric for the bust inset and the straps. It's a black tulle flocked with tiny dots all over it, a perfect match for the main fabric. Here's a picture of the texture.

I layered the tulle over black Kona cotton for opacity. When you use a sheer for the gathered inset, you will probably want to cut two of the bust stay: one for the lining, and one to underline the gathered inset with (this way you don't see the inside of the stay through the sheer fabric). Here are my two bust pieces during assembly. The gathered tulle is basted to the second bust stay, and the second bust stay is for the lining (note that it also has a strip of white fusible interfacing to stabilize the neckline).

I also changed the skirt design. The original design was made up in my rose sateen border print, so the skirt was a gathered rectangle.

The faille, however, doesn't gather very nicely because of its stiffness. So I used a three-quarter circle skirt pattern I have instead. I just measured the pattern pieces before cutting to make sure everything would fit together and match at the side seams.

I also added a little glitter velvet ribbon underneath the bust, with a bow at center front. I liked the idea of having a little "border" between the bust inset and the midriff.

I also wore a black satin belt with it for extra vintage flair. Also, a chiffon petticoat!

As for matching the print along the seams: I had great intentions of doing it on all the seams, until I realized that I would have to drastically shift the grainlines on the side bodice pieces to make that work. So I made do with matching the dresses along the center back seam, as you can see in the photo above.

Construction-wise, I made a small amount of changes. This pattern design was originally conceived as a casual sundress, so the pattern only calls for boning at the center back and the side seams. As this is a more formal look, I decided to add more structure. (Also, I love using steel boning so much that I get a little carried away!).

I added extra channels on the princess seams below the bust and diagonally on either side of the bust. Here's a picture of the inside of the bodice lining. 

I used black sew in interfacing for the outer bodice. You can press the faille lightly, but it's better to now use too much steam or pressure on flocking. So sew-in interfacing is best. You can baste it to your fabric by hand or machine (but only if the machine doesn't cause puckering).

I made my waist stay in lavender petersham.

As for the fit. I used my bodice lining as my muslin, and it worked out just fine. I made a size 12, which had to be taken in just a little at the side seams. I also had to raise the waist seam 1/4". I made the A/B cup size, which fit very well. I'm so glad this pattern also has C and D cup sizes, as the bust fit is so important.

I'm so loving this dress. It feels like it was made for dancing. And it's been wonderful having time to sew things in my patterns and fabrics. I hope you're enjoying the results!