Monday, April 15, 2013

Time-Saving Trick for a Boned Bodice Muslin



When I went through my corset-making obsession, I learned a lot of cool tricks that can be transferred to dressmaking. And this particular trick is my absolute favorite.

When making a muslin for a dress with a boned bodice, it's imperative to actually put boning into your muslin. A boned bodice generally has little to no ease. But without the boning for stability, it just looks like a too tight, wrinkly muslin--which makes it impossible to evaluate the fit. Obviously, however, sewing boning into a garment is time-consuming and often makes it difficult to alter the seams of a garment--exactly what you need to be doing in the muslin stage!

So, meet your new best friend, masking tape. Yep, you can tape lengths of spiral steel boning into your muslin for fitting purposes. (Does masking tape have different names in different countries? It's that parchment-colored tape typically used to cover molding or door frames when painting walls.)

Center the steel boning over the seam allowance (or wherever you want to place it) and secure it with a length of masking tape.

The only rule is that you don't want the boning to extend into the waistline seam allowance. The boning must end right at your waistline seam allowance.

It's perfectly fine for it to extend over the top of the bodice, though, as long as it doesn't poke into your armpit or anything awkward like that. Here I let the back boning extend past the upper edge of the bodice, just for the purposes of fitting. This way you don't have to cut the boning to length until you've figured out the fitting issues. 

Another time-saving trick is to fit only the bodice (this works if the skirt is full and only needs to fit at the waist). If you're fitting yourself, it's really important to put a dress-length zipper into the muslin--just let the extra zipper length hang below the bodice.

I'm currently working on my design, Butterick 5882, to wear to a wedding next weekend! Sorry for the mirror photo, but it's about all I could handle this weekend. The only fitting change I needed to make was removing some ease from the waistline. The taped-in boning made this super easy: I just removed the boning to take in the seams, and then stuck it back in place to re-fit. You don't even need new masking tape since it stays sticky!

I'm making it from this amazing brocade with flocked velvet polka dots. The bustline and straps will be in coordinating black shantung.


More to come on this design, including the long-promised FBA post.

Hope this sticky trick helps you out on your next party dress muslin!

26 comments:

  1. Genius! Never thought to do that. Also, really looking forward to the FBA post...hoping to whip your beautiful 5882 for an event mid-May!

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  2. What a great tip. Who'd have thought of that! Thank you!

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  3. What a great idea, thanks for sharing. I'm looking forward to seeing your finished dress - even the muslin looks pretty!

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  4. It's called masking tape here in the UK too :)

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  5. What a great idea. I'll definitely be using it when I next to a boned bodice.

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  6. This is a fantastic tip, I'm so glad you shared it. I've only just started on the corset building obsession and I have a tendancy to do things the absolute hardest way imaginable if left to my own devices. I'm sure this will save me hours of frustration.

    Masking tape can also be found under the name painter's tape and is sometimes blue. As an added bonus, the blue brand (from 3M I think) comes in different widths.

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  7. Ah what a great idea, I've yet to try boning despite having sewn for years, it's next on my list of 'must try' and this suggestion is just great, I have a large cup size so need to do a trial first for fit. Also as Samantha said, finally a word that translates, it IS masking tape here in the UK too :o)

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  8. I have no time to sew at the moment, so I am living vicariously through all of you. This is a wonderful idea, and I look forward to trying it.

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  9. Thanks for sharing! I'm loving your tips and tricks that you are sharing right now! That fabric is amazing! I can't wait to see the finished product!

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  10. That's the most clever thing I read in quite a while! Thanks :)

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  11. Thanks for sharing. Beautiful. Love the new dress design too!!!

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  12. ZOMG THAT FABRIC! I am dying here!

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  13. thanks for this gertie, its a very goot idea!

    looking forward for this dress - the fabric is a dream!!!!!

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  14. Thanks for this time saving tip Gertie. I have your pattern, but have a project to finish before I move onto this dress. Yes, the project I am currently finishing off is also a Gertie inspired one...........Boned bodice top from your bombshell course, and the evening skirt I am attaching is from a Vogue evening dress. Must post pics of it when its finished!!!!

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  15. Brilliant! I have used rigline in bodice/corset mock-up since you can machine sew it in quickly but this is even better. And easy to rip a piece of boning out if you want to adjust the seam in a fitting.

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  16. It is 'masking tape' in Australia too, just in case you were wondering!

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  17. WOW, I feel like I definitely should've thought of this--I redneck everything up with tape!

    Thanks so much for this tip, and I can't wait to see: a) your finished dress [that fabric!!], and b) your FBA post for this dress. It's such a beautiful design! Thanks, Gertie!

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  18. Wow. What a 'Eureka moment' tip. The number of corset toiles I've made and bothered to sew boning channels into... this is a much more sensible idea. Thanks so much for sharing!

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  19. Oh my! I hadn't even thought of this, but I will definitely be using it for my next corset project this summer!

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  20. this book looks great... I've never used knits, they always seemed a bit scary!
    love the blog, can't wait to see the dress you're making for the wedding next weekend. The fabric looks gorgeous!

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  21. That's brilliant-- I wish I'd known that a few months ago! Oh well, I'll definitely remember it for next time I'm making something boned!

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  22. You just saved my whole Saturday! Thanks!

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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