First things first. It's a good idea to thread-trace your seam allowances on the collar. (Just use a basting stitch and a contrasting thread color to stitch 5/8" from the edge.) This way you can get a sense of how big the collar will actually look on your frame. If you're petite, you may wish to reduce the scale of the collar on the outside edges so it doesn't overwhelm your frame. (Just don't forget to make the same change to the collar facing.)
I also thread-traced over my center front line and my buttonholes so I knew where to pin my overlap in place--the center front lines should match when worn.
Also, pin up your sleeves 1-1/2" to account for the hem allowance.
When you try on your muslin, wear the same amount of layers you usually wear in the cooler weather. In my case, a long sleeved sweater.
Okay, let's talk fit!
One thing to remember with this pattern: the skirt on this coat is really heavy, so it will be putting weight on the bodice. (Some participants have reported the bust darts ending too high, and the lack of skirt weight at this point could be the reason.) You may want to pull down slightly on the bodice to get an idea of how it will look when you're wearing it.
You also may notice some pull marks under the arms. The kimono sleeves cause this, and without a gusset to shape them, there's not a whole lot to do about it--since you want the sleeve to have plenty of ease to allow for clothing underneath. Also, remember that your fashion fabric will add some structure to the entire garment.
Make sure that you have enough room to place a few fingers between your body and the waist of the muslin.
I like the way the fit is looking in the front. However, I'm noticing more excess than I'd like in the back sleeves. My plan is to try to take some of this out at the overarm seam. (Unless any of you have a better idea, that is!)
I got Rosie to hop into a picture!
Next week I will introduce our sew-along moderators, talk about cutting, interfacing, and constructing the bodice front and back! (Don't worry, I will go over those pesky pivot points on the back neckline!)