Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Evening Dresses of the New Look and Early 50s


Vogue’s New Book for Better Sewing was published in 1952, and it was a wonderful time for evening gowns. Christian Dior’s New Look was unveiled in 1947, and by the early 50s the silhouette was well established, with its full skirts, tiny waists, and structured bodices.

Waspie "corset" from the V&A collection

The New Look silhouette relied upon a corseted waist, so it’s a happy coincidence that I just made my first underbust corset. My corset is very similar to the waspies of the late 40s and early 50s, actually. It’s narrow, encircling the waist and leaving the hips and bust free. (Of course, a true New Look devotee would take this opportunity to add hip padding and bust padding to increase hourglass proportions; I think I’ll stick with what I’ve got in those areas.)
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Evening gowns provided even more opportunity to use obscene amounts of fabric than day dresses and suits. At least, it must have seemed obscene in those early post-war years. It’s no wonder that the New Look was protested by some: after years of rations and “Make Do and Mend,” skirts that ventured below the knee seemed extravagant. Fabrics were milled in narrower widths in those days, so it’s not unusual to see an evening dress call for ten yards or more of fabric.

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I read an interesting statement in the book Theatre de la Mode: Fashion Dolls: The Survival of Haute Couture that's stuck with me ever since. The author wrote of the marvels of seeing a fresh couture exhibit in a recently war-torn continent: "Today, freed from such preoccupations, are we even capable of being sufficiently amazed?" Likewise, I don’t think we can manage to be suitably impressed by the wonder (and perhaps anger) these huge evening gowns would have instilled in someone of the time period. (Interesting side story: I told Jeff about about the above quote, and he replied, "I don't really think we're sufficiently amazed by anything anymore." How true!)

The pattern for the Evening Dress featured in VoNBBS actually came out a bit earlier than the book. It was originally released in 1949, and I think the styling betrays its late 40s origins. Which I think explains why there’s something relatively restrained about this dress. The skirt could be much fuller than it is. But perhaps that's because this is from the very early days of the New Look, when designers were still testing the waters with the idea of excess and volume.



The pattern was reissued in a new envelope for the publication of VoNBBS. The illustration style certainly changed, didn’t it?



The model pictured has raven (Elizabeth Taylor-esque even) hair and bright red lips. The line quality of the art is different: less restrained, I think. And of course the brilliant pink screams femininity.

Well, that's your Evening Dress installment of the day. I'll be back tomorrow with my adventures in muslin-ing the VoNBBS dress!


23 comments:

  1. I can't wait to see what this dress comes out like with such lovely fabric. It is interesting to see how quickly the illustrations changed with the new decade. I think her posture is also interesting. It accentuates the new shape a lot more. It's good to see the next installment of the vnbfbs (is that the right acronym?)

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  2. Very interesting history lesson! I can't wait to see how yours turns out, it will be lovely.

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  3. How lovely! I've recently been working on a 50s evening gown too. My version used a mere 5.5 yds but there was a version that called for 9 yds! Can't wait to see how your version of this dress comes out.

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  4. I think this is going to look great in tea length...

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  5. Can I suggest a trip to London (for research purposes of course) to see the V&A's latest exhibition on Ballgowns since 1950? For some reason I can't paste the link in but you can find it at www.vam.ac.uk

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    1. Oh I wish! You have no idea how much I want to see the V&A.

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  6. Wow, thanks for the history on the pattern. I can't wait to learn more.thanks again.

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  7. The difference in illustration is truly striking! In the 40's view, the women are standing tall with square shoulders that carry the dress. In the 50's view, the beginning of the hunched-over posture is evident, with the sloping shoulders that seem to put the dress in charge. I can't wait to see your progress!

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  8. I love everything about this post. Thank you for taking the time to write and explain all of this to us. You are a great writer.

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  9. I must be older than the rest of you - This Brings back memories of a beautiful ball gown that one of my Aunties made for me in the late 50s, when I was at University.
    It was bright turquoise, with a boned strapless bodice, and a full skirt with loads of layers of stiff net in the underskirt. I felt really glamorous, and it was such a contrast with the drab, war-deprived years.
    Thanks to you, Auntie Peggy!

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  10. I just saw a really similar vintage Dior dress as in the first picture on display at a private art gallery, maybe its from the same collection. http://imgur.com/a/Ltqss#0 (shitty iphone photo quality, sorry!) It was gorgeous.

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  11. 10 yards! Wow, frankly that still seems extravagant to me. Especially for something that only gets occasional wear? I'm hesitating over a coat pattern that wants 5 yards. But I imagine even then if you sewed it yourself you would save significantly over the cost of rtw or couture. Thanks for sharing this thoughtful post.

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  12. In fact, in Europe, fabrics were rationed (at least in the Netherlands and the UK, but very likely almost everywhere else as well) until 1950. As a result, there was just no way for a normal woman to try out the New Look, even if she were willing to put up with the cost of all that fabric.

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    1. Very true, I've read that the black skirt in Dior's famous 1947 "Bar" New Look ensemble used 7 yards of fabric.

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  13. Just asked my Ma born in 1928 in the Uk she was 20 in 1948 and remembers the war, rationing and the sheer excitment of seeing Dior's new look for the first time. it was something she never got to wear as rationing was still in place until 1950 and things were still very austere, one of the only places to find such yardage of fabric were curtains but Ma said if you still had large curtains by 1948 then you were well off and didn't need to make dresses from curtains! Married in 1952 to my dad - they met at the local dance hall and yes Ma wore fablous frocks - all tea length Gertie with as bigger skirt as fabric you could afford. Did she wear a waspie - yes - she tells me she has a natural 18" waist but that was gifted to her by all those years of rationing - with her waspie she had a 16" waist. She's 84 and is still tiny around the waist despite 4 kids (not a cake eater) Patricia UK

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    1. Patricia - you've triggered another memory of those days. I'm about 10 years younger than your Mum and when I started grammar school in late 40s the summer uniform was a blue and white checked gingham dress. My Mum had 2 dresses made for me out of a blue and white checked coarse cotton mattress cover. I wasn't pleased about it but there was no choice in those days; I can't remember what the others did.

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    2. I love these stories! Thank you so much for sharing them.

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  14. The blog was absolutely fantastic! Lot of great information which can be helpful in some or the other way. Keep updating the blog, looking forward for more contents.

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  15. Oh, how I wish my grandmother were still alive so I could ask her about postwar sewing! Gertie, thanks for a great post. I'm fascinated by the changes in illustration and want another lifetime to get degrees in art/illustration history and fashion history. I have to say I like the first pattern illustration more!

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  16. Born in 1937, I was in the middle of the New Look when I took Home Ec in the early 50's I made bridesmaids gowns and my wedding gown (1956) with all those yards of Tulle and lace. How nice that the younger ladies are becoming interested in "Our" look. I gave away two commercial pattern cabinets full of those old patterns up to about ten years ago to a theater Department. They were happy and my kids were happy they didn't have to find room in my new home for them. Happy sewing girls.

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  17. I think a few people have said this already, but I am always horrified when I pick up a voluminous vintage reissue and realize that the dress calls for 5-6 yds of fabric. I am comfortable salary-wise, but my student days still make me hesitate to spend more than $5/yd for "nice" fabric. I'm gradually dipping my toe into the $10-$20/yd fabrics (thank you MOOD) for fitted dresses and skirts. Maybe I'll stop being shocked after I've successfully used these pricier fabrics?

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  18. Useful information! All these articles you had post are great. You are so kind to share them with us.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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