Monday, May 23, 2011

Crinoline Tutorial in Vogue Patterns Magazine

I still haven't taken the plunge and subscribed to Vogue Patterns magazine, but I do check it out on the newsstand every month. I had to buy the June/July issue because of one of the free projects: instructions to make your own crinoline to complete your Vintage Vogue ensemble.

One of the things that's always bothered me about the Vintage Vogues is that they don't modernize the length. That in itself is fine, but if you're wearing 50s tea-length, you definitely need some structure under your dress, whether from a big fluffy crinoline or a more subtle shaping with horsehair braid. Is there anything sadder than seeing someone who's taken the time to beautifully construct a vintage dress pattern in classic tea-length and their skirt is all limp? (Okay, I guess there are sadder things, but I'm being dramatic for the sake of the post.)

And finally Vintage Vogue acknowledges this! Their petticoat article shows a reissued 50s pattern, with and without a crinoline. And then they give you clear, step-by-step instructions for making your own. Love it!

I did think it was funny that the crinoline they make is a mere 21" inches long, when most Vintage Vogues end at a very dramatic tea-length, I would guess around 29-30". But it's progress. Next, I'd like an article on fitting the bodices of reissues to get a more 50s look. Right?

Also worth noting: if you don't have time to make a petticoat, these are supposed to be the best and they're very reasonably priced. Happy twirling!

34 comments:

  1. Oh, I love petticoats! They are girlie, and I have a soft spot for anything vintage and girlie! Have a great day, everyone!

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  2. haha! After reading your post I think I will only ever be able to see petticoat-less skirts as "sad skirts". ;) rofl.

    I've been itching to make my own petticoat for a bit, but always get stuck wondering if it's just more economical (and less frustrating) to buy one (which is pretty much what I've done up to now). Shall have to look through the issue next time I'm at JoAnns.

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  3. I so need to get a petticoat. I "made" one by cutting out the built in one from an old prom dress I was refashioning and added elastic for a quick waist band. It sort of works, but I'd love a proper one! (or three or ten!)

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  4. I agree nothing sadder than a full skirt not full!!

    I make dresses and i also supply crinolines in a wide variety of fullnesses and clours, see my facebook page for more info. (website still under construction)

    www.facebook.com/bbkcouture

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  5. Yes! One of the things that always bugs me with the vintage Vogue reissues is how baggy and saggy the bodices look in the modelled photos. You'd think they would want their dresses to look their best, yet they never seem to provide their models with the right underwear or the right fit. So glad someone else has noticed it!

    Btw. never got to congratulate you on your move to freelance, so here goes... Congratulations and looking forward to watching you go from strength to strength!

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  6. Thank you so much for posting this. I've wanted to make a petticoat for a long time. However, after linking to ReSashay I decided to purchase one. Thanks again!

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  7. I think it took them a while to address this because vintage underpinnings are scary and unknown.

    Petticoats take dresses into the realm of "look at me, I am dressing differently than you" in a way that wiggle dresses and pencil skirts do not.

    However, as far as undergarments go, petticoats are less restrictive than say, girdles and longline bras, so it makes sense that they are Vogue's choice for "Gateway Undies."

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  8. I have only met you in person one time (Golden Age of Couture in Nashville) but I fully support you more to a new career path. You will be quite successful as you have the talent and drive.

    I was a teenager in the late 1950's and do not recall any of my dresses being tea length. The rule was about 1" below the knee. My sister had lots of petticoats (or cancans as they were also called--from the dance--"cancan - a high-kicking dance of French origin performed by a female chorus line") They were fun and we would wear two or three under our skirts. Sadly, at the time the cancans were mostly white.

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  9. I've found petticoats and crinolines at the thrift store. That's where I got mine. The quality varies, but I love wearing one under my vintage style dress!

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  10. Full and crisp or soft and flowing, both skirt looks seem fine to me, just different. I also think that the fuller version looks very young and may be too girly for a womanly vintage style lover. just sayin'

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  11. Gertie, your posts are always so timely for me, I'm not sure how you do it!!

    I'm in the middle of sewing a very full, scalloped skirt and I need a crinoline for it. Thanks for posting up this and pointing me in the right direction. :)

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  13. Thanks so much for posting this! It is exactly what I have been looking for! Just went on the site and bought it!

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  14. Oh - crinolines! My mother used to soak mine in sugar water when I was a little girl so that they'd be extra stiff.

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  15. Oh, how strange. Vogue Patterns changed its name to Sew Today here in the UK a few years ago and I have never thought it to be quite as good since. Let me tell you there is NO such article in our June issue - we have a string bracelet!! Perhaps we may have it in a later issue?

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  16. Hi Gertie,
    I'm a long time lurker and love reading your blog! Had to comment on this one to say I have made several petticoats like the vogue one using the brilliant tutorial posted by Sugardale (just google Sugardale petticoat tutorial). They are pretty easy and good for developing skills like gathering; also not cost prohibitive really- ribbon can be costly if you make a big petticoat though! Gemma x

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  17. Thanks for this post, looks great!

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  18. I'll be looking out for this, thanks Gertie! I hope the UK version Sew Today has it. I've bought a few petticoats online but they've never been fluffy enough for my liking so making one myself is an idea. I have a fair few tea length dresses and they do look a bit sad and limp without petticoats under them. The effect can be a little bit costume-y, but I think that's what I like about it!

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  19. Oh wow I stumbled upon your blog at the perfect time! I was just getting set to buy a petticoat pattern of Etsy, but this looks much better! thanks for the heads up!

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  20. Gertie....Coco Chanel said, "A girl should always be two things, classy and fabulous", you my darling are both!! You've renewed my motivation and spirit in this wonderful craft we call sewing! Keep up the great work!

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  21. I have one black petticoat but need a light colored one for summery dresses. I've been thinking pink or yellow instead of just white. But I really want to try making an Alice Lon petticoat, if only because it's so extreme!

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  22. Oh Gertie, Thank you so much for the link to the petticoat shop! I need one for the full skirt I made recently and I spotted one on "pinupclothing" but it's always out of stock. And I think I'd better buy one than make it because these days I'm not very often with my sewing machine (it stayed in Switzerland and I'm studying in Italy).
    By the way, I rarely comment but I absolutely adore your blog, your attention to details and your views concerning the place of women in society. Of course, I "like" your blog on facebook :)

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  23. I bought the magazine online, and it's being shipped to my house! Can't wait to get it. I've seen the tutorials online and they are fantastic, as well, but I'm still a paper and ink kinda girl! :) LOL

    I'll post pix on my blog when I'm done. www.sewsewenchanting.blogspot.com

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  24. I cheat. I sew netting or tulle to the skirt in between the skirt and the lining.

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  25. Good on Vogue for finally catching up! Hopefully they can help make the fuller skirt trendy because I can't help but feel if you put a crin under your skirt people assume you're dressed for a wedding, not just a day out about town!

    A shame that they instruct for a 21", okay so it can be lengthened with extra tiers but one of my biggest bug bears is too short crinolines under dresses, so it has this lovely shape then suddenly hangs down limp for the last few inches, the petticoat should reach the hem of the skirt, especially if it has lots of ruffles worth showing off!

    Nathalie - I also find the lack of fit really annoying, plus the fact they seem to make everything out of dodgy curtain fabric! It always me think of The Sound of Music when Mary makes herself and the children outfits out of the draperies! It certainly does nothing to entice me to buy their patterns.

    Mary, I do that trick too with some dresses, problem is they become wardrobe hoggers!

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  26. And looking at the article properly I see they've used 2902 an an example which I've recently made with a built in petticoat. Not that mine ever looked that flat, I made a three layered skirt for it (more fool me, forgot about having to hem them all!), it is enormous.

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  27. I'm showing my age here, but I can remember the full skirts of the early '60s and I can tell you, you need more than one petticoat to get that look. We wore 3, 4, 5, even more. I even had one that had rows of plastic air pockets (like bubble wrap) to make it hold its shape!

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  28. As soon as I read this, I thought of you! I think I have to try this pattern...

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  29. Hi. I've been reading your blog for a while and I love it. It's very inspiring. I'm a beginning sewer and barely starting to work on clothing. I look forward to learning more from your blog.
    I bought this Vogue magazine just for the petticoat pattern. You never know when you will need one.
    Congrats on the new career path. Can't wait for your book to be published.

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  30. I have been wanting a petticoat for soooo long I went to the store yesterday and bought this issue.

    Looking at the fabric requirements and not having enough fabric knowledge, since it says not to use tulle, is the netting fabric they are suggesting itchy on the legs? I remember having a petticoat built into one of my dresses as a young girl and hating it because it was so itchy!!

    Also, if you sit all day in your petticoat will it mishape it and wear it out quicker? I would love to rock my petticoat at work, but don't want to ruin it because I sit all day.

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  31. I remember my sisters wearing the can-can petticoats. I was really young but I remember them and thinking how glad I was to not have to wear one.

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  32. Bwaha. I subscribe to Vogue Magazine, and haven't gotten to look through the last couple of issues. I almost bought a crinoline because I didn't have a pattern. Thanks for pointing this out Gertie!

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  33. Thanks for posting this Gertie! I'm just starting my first retro pattern and didn't think about how to make the skirt a little bit fuller. Perfect timing! Thanks for all the tips you put on here! I'm sure it will come in handy for my sewing projects for my blog http://stylishadventures.blogspot.com/ I hope my dresses can come out as cute as yours do!

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  34. Thanks for writing about this, Gertie! I made the Alice Lon petticoat for my wedding dress, and Ryan is right, it is pretty extreme! My pattern review I definitely want to give the Vogue tutorial a try. It seems more practical for everyday wear.
    Also, that's my pattern on the back cover! And my name is actually on page 86! Thanks for this post! Otherwise I would have never known it was there! :)

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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