Sunday, October 10, 2010

Neat Lapel, Messy Lapel

I generally try to improve my techniques with each task I complete. With my second lapel, I decided I needed to work on the appearance of my pad stitching by hiding the knots and thread tales between the layers of wool and hair canvas. This may sound slightly obsessive, since the stitching is hidden inside the coat, but a hallmark of good tailoring is neat handstitches. ("Like they were made by little mice!")

Here's the messy one. Eek!

And the tidy one. Much better, though my next pad stitching goal is to make my stitches more consistent.
Hiding your thread knots is easy to do: just start and stop each length of stitching between the fashion fabric and hair canvas, rather than on top of it.

How's your pad stitching going, Sew-Alongers?

17 comments:

  1. I like the "no-knot" version too although I haven't been doing it!

    The pad stitching is in-process- slowly but surely. I keep flipping over the lapel to see the little ridge that is forming. You weren't kidding- it IS like magic!

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  2. I'm not doing this project, but I always try to work neatly, well, as neatly as I can.

    It's a point of pride, but I also can't believe that consistency and clean work don't contribute to a better outcome. Uneven stitches might result in lumpy padding, for example. If you have to open up something, you know what you're dealing with.

    After discovering that I couldn't just eyeball most hand stitching, I began to chalk guidelines, or I scored lines with a ceramic Hera marker.

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  3. I'm not sewing along either but try to sew as tidily as possible. What I really wanted to say is that I LOVE your fabric choice for this coat. It's going to look be so chic but versatile.

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  4. I'm way behind, still on my muslin but I can wait to see how the pad stiching will look :D

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  5. Padstitching is exhausting. I'm not even halfway done!

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  6. i'm about to start on my second muslin. i'm super behind. but i hope it slows up just a bit to give me a chance to catch up! i can't wait to start my tailoring

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  7. I've got one lapel complete, but can't get the 2nd one started because I ran out of hair canvas.

    I'm a little bit concerned about my pad stitching, because no matter what I try I can't keep the stitches from showing on the right side - my fabric is pretty thin I guess. I'm just trying to keep the stitches as small as possible and hoping for the best.

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  8. I am not making the this coat, but am following your tuts on tailoring. I am SO EXCITED to make myself a tailored jacket!!! I hope these techniques will be in your book.... :-)

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  9. It always pays to be tidy and neat on the inside even though it never gets seen. Your pad stitching looks "Marvelous Darling".... I always try to keep the insides of the items I make neat as well. Gives one a sense of accomplishment to do a technique well...KUDOS to you on bettering your skills!!

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  10. Oh...I forgot to comment on my progress...after getting my alternative pattern this past week I have been in the process of altering the pattern to fit my "issues". Hoping to cut Muslin #1 out tomorrow and stitch it up. Keeping the fingers crossed I don't have to adjust further but we know how that goes.... ;-)

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  11. I have just started my pad stitching. I am sewing a different coat (a trench) in a cotton stretch jacquard, and I have been doing some things differently. I just had to come and post a comment because only half way through my first row, I could already see the lapel laying so much better at the roll line! How cool! Now let's hope the baby takes her naps this week so I can get these lapels done!

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  12. Im following you but i should give it a try!

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  13. I'm so messy that something like that is sort of beyond even my wildest dreams... wish I had the time and dedication to try something like this. I have to say though, your sewing is getting so professional it's really beyond my grasp now - even when I first started following you it was impressive but now it's just insanely advanced!

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  14. I can't belive it - I go away for a week and look at the progress you all have made! Looking forward to the next sew-a-long...

    btw congrates on getting the first chapter into your editor - I am so looking forward to it coming out (I just wish we were publishing it - in OZ as I would be letting everyone know about it now!!)

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  15. After seeing your comment on the pad stitching instruction post about keeping things neat, I've been trying to keep mine tidy too! ;) If nothing else, knowing how "pretty" the insides are is always satisfying.

    I started pad stitching yesterday afternoon, and have about two rows done. I'm having a bit of a hard time since the gabardine is so light and smooth, and stitches have a tendency to go through the fabric, rather than just pick up a little "nip". It's definitely worth the slower going though--the roll is starting to become a bit more defined! I dare say it's probably going to take me the rest of the week to do all this on the two lapels though... *sigh*

    ♥ Casey | blog

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  16. I did not join in the sew along this time, but have been following the progression. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but your description along with the photos has imparted significantly more knowledge to me. Many thanks, you have motivated me to try making a jacket this season!

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  17. Um, I'm still fitting my muslin... where are the little sewing mice when I need them?

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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