My Lady Grey Muslin (and How to Mark Your Roll Lines)
Here it is, at long last! Overall, I'm very happy with the fit. The biggest problem I noticed right away was a gaping in the lapels. You can see it in the side view. See how the lapels stand away from my chest?
I just pinned out the excess, through both layers of fabric.
As usual, I'm not totally sure about the back, and I would love your thoughts. There are a few wrinkles in the mid-back region. I tried letting the back princess seams out a tad, as readers suggested in an earlier post, and that seemed to help. The shoulders look a little mushy, so I will probably try to rectify that with shoulder pads.
Other than that, the only other change I want to make is shaving about half an inch of width off the lapels and collar. They look a bit exaggerated to me here:
Here's how I re-drew the lapel point (the green line is the new one). I'll repeat that on the collar point.
Here's the tuck taken out of the front piece, to reduce the lapel length.
Okay, now here's the next important part about making a muslin for a tailored garment: you want to mark your roll lines on the lapel and the collar. Put your muslin on, and see where the garment folds at the lapel and at the collar stand. Pin it in place. Here's mine on my dressform.
Once it's pinned into place, you want to mark the fold right on the crease (see the handy purple arrow below). I do this with a thin Sharpie.
Do the same on the crease of your collar:
When you take the pieces apart, true the roll lines with a ruler and a marker or pencil. See the new roll line in green below?
Here's the collar roll line, which curves around the neck. (Ignore the sloppy pen marks! Oy.)
And that's it! These marks will need to be transferred to the coat pieces once the interfacing has been applied. More on that later. As always, let me know if you have questions or suggestions!