Disclaimer of the day: the method I'm showing you is Susan Khalje's method, which I learned from her book Bridal Couture as well as her recent article "Muslin Refined," which is in the current issue of Threads magazine. This method is time and labor-intense, and you certainly don't have to follow it. You can very well just cut out and mark your muslin as you would any pattern and have at it. But, if you're looking to elevate your game, consider this method.
First, locate the pieces that you'll need for your muslin. I've circled them in green here (double-click to enlarge):
I'm showing you all the following steps on one pattern piece, for the sake of clarity. (And for the sake of my sanity, since I didn't have time to do more than one last night!)
First, make any preliminary pattern changes. Personally, I knew I would need to grade from a size 10 in the waist up to a 12 in the hips. So I simply took my handy gridded ruler and angled it from the 10 down to the 12. I drew a new line in orange.
Now you want to trace your seam lines and markings using your tracing paper and tracing wheel. Place one piece of tracing paper face-up under your muslin.
Start tracing the seam lines, notches, grainline, and any other important marks with your tracing wheel. Move the tracing paper around as necessary. This will give you one red line on the bottom of the doubled-up muslin and one red line on the top of the muslin.
Go all the way around the pattern piece. Remove the pattern tissue, but then replace some of the pins in the muslin to keep the two layers from shifting. Mark the pattern name and piece.
Take your pieces to your machine and thread it with dark or bright color that will show up on your muslin. Begin stitching along the seam line. You need to break the thread at the end of each seam; don't pivot around the corners. You want your thread tracings to extend into the seam allowances.
Okay, I'm beat for now. If you want to continue on your own, here are the next steps:
- Machine baste your pieces together (right sides together, as per usual), using a different color thread from your thread tracing.
- Press up the lower hem and sleeve hem
- Press in the seam allowance on your collar and lapel, like so:
|Image from Tailoring: the Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket|
Everybody now: WOO HOO! MUSLINS!