But back to the construction. I hand basted the pleated bust pieces to the under-bust pieces.
I hand-basted, and then machine-stitched, the center seam of the upper bust. (You can see here how the pleats were looking rumply before I put the rigeline in.)
Now for the complicated stuff: twill tape and bra cups! Twill tape is a woven cotton tape that helps to keep the upper edge of the bust close to the chest, rather than gaping. I bought 1/4" white twill tape. It needs to be applied in the seam allowance so that the edge of the tape fits perfectly into the fold of the upper bodice seam. So here's the upper bodice seam allowance. I had already applied a row of stay stitching right onto the seam line, around the entire upper bodice - front and back. Next, I put in a line of machine basting right above it, to make slight gathers - but only on the front. Hopefully my little blue and purple arrows will help you out here!
|Double click to view larger|
Next, I put in the bra cups. This is very easy. Figure out the position of the cups by holding them, and the dress, up to your bust, and seeing what works. Once you're happy with the position, pin the cups in. Stitch them in by hand, using a catch stitch. Stitch them to the silk organza underlining only, not the fashion fabric. You only need to stitch the top of the cups. Don't stitch all the way around - this can cause the cups to pull at the outer fabric in weird ways.
Here's a close-up of the cup and the twill tape.
I finished the outer dress construction by attaching the skirt and applying the zipper.
Whew! I think that's enough for today, don't you? Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions in the comments. Next up: fun with spiral steel boning!