Thursday, August 5, 2010

When Women Padded Their Hips


Readers, I just scored the coolest piece of 50s sewing ephemera off of eBay: a Vogue pattern for shoulder and hip pads! Casey knows that I'm obsessed with the engineering of Dior's New Look suits (blogged here) so she sweetly e-mailed me when she spotted this pattern. Hip pads are a sort of mythical being to me: I've read about them countless times but never seen them in their natural habitat, so to speak. Hence, I had to make this pattern mine.

A New Look jacket, like that of the Bar Suit below, would have been intensely structured with interfacings, pad stitching, and padding in the shoulders and hips. (And, of course, the model would be wearing a "waspie" corset to cinch her waist.)

I think the reason hip padding is so fascinating to me is that it's such a foreign concept to a modern woman: we're supposed to want to make our hips disappear, not emphasize them! (That's what you'll learn if you watch any yogurt or cereal commercial today, right?) But think about it: a little tailoring goes a long way in a jacket (just see the difference sleeve heads made in my red suit) to creating a more flattering fit. And there's nothing worse than a droopy, flimsy peplum. (Okay, that's not true. There are actually a lot worse things, but you get my point.) Wouldn't it be great to create a smooth, structured line on the hips as well? Hence, I've actually become rather attracted to the idea of tailoring the hips of jackets, just as the shoulders would be tailored.

So how does this pattern work, you ask? Well, I was surprised to see that it's not really padding at all, but three layers of heavy stiffeners: one layer of heavy hair canvas, one of buckram, and one of heavy muslin. (That's a lot of heaviness!)


There are two pattern pieces: an inner piece for the three stiffeners, and an outer piece for a fabric cover.


Here's how the construction works. All three layers are basted together, stitched in horizontal rows (this is how padstitching is done by machine), and then covered with a fabric outer cover.

Pretty cool stuff, huh? I'm kind of dying to try this in a jacket. What's really exciting is that you could manipulate this idea to be more extreme too: for example, deeper darts and some serious hand padstitching could get you super-structural hips, like in the Bar Suit above.

But this more subtle effect (well, relatively speaking) of the pattern above would be perfect for a slim suit, like the one from VoNBBS. (Which, by the way, I finally found! Thanks to a helpful reader. Only one VoNBBS pattern left to find!) Can't you just see this with the hips getting a little help from these pads?


What do you think? Could you ever bring yourself to pad your hips? Or will you happily leave this idea in the 50s?

53 comments:

  1. Wow, first commenter.
    I could totally pad my hips, but then I have frog thighs. the widest point on my hips is at the level of my crotch, which means I cannot find any ready to wear trousers, since I get stress wrinkles.
    I simply want to move the widest part of my hip a bit upwards.

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  2. I'd do it! It's crazy, but who cares? It looks great.

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  3. Seems like it would make sitting down uncomfortable. So... count me out.

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  4. My hips have enough padding as it is. I'd need to recover some of my waist for this look and that's not happening any time soon! I am interested in the shoulder pad part of this pattern. I have a later Vogue pattern with shoulder pads.

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  5. I'm so glad you posted about this--and thanks for including pictures of the pattern pieces and construction notes! :D I was actually just thinking about this earlier in the week (I sit around and think about sewing too much... I know ;). I would definitely pad out my hips--especially in a suit or other sort of design that requires it (evening wear springs to mind, although that's a different sort of padding/stiffening; still, same principle). I used to work at a store that specialized in suits for women, and I've seen far too many droopy, ill-fitting peplums (which is probably why I have an aversion to suits now ;). Sometimes an extra bit of stiffness, tailored to your body size helps a lot with keeping things smooth, creating the illusion of an hourglass, and adding a bit of structure to an area that tends to be a bit "fluffy" on most women.

    I'm so making 2011 the Year of the Suit! :D Must start planning to learn tailoring (I was just reading through that section in Claire Schaeffer's "Couture Sewing" yesterday ;) and make my own suit--complete with era-appropriate padding!

    ♥ Casey
    blog | elegantmusings.com

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  6. Definitely! Anything that might help my waist look smaller! I already saved your pattern images just in case the opportunity should ever arise. Thanks for posting them!

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  7. Glad that website worked for the suit pattern.
    I can't see padding my hips considering I'm off the charts for most patterns, but I really LOVE that look....And I get the most compliments when I wear a really tailored suit....

    Karen

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  8. I have enough natural padding for 3 suits and a skirt. I don't need to 'make' further embellishment! Monique xx

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  9. Well, I think part of the whole technology there is that the women were also wearing nuclear-powered girdle/waist cinchers too. So, part of this was a 'oh, wow..look at the difference in the appearance of the waist (all sucked in) and the hips (which, with padding or stiffening) are flaring out. Very 'Minoan statue of the girl with the snakes' sort of thing. Now, to make this really work, you also need to be a certain height, so that there is a certain amount of length between the hips and the bottom of the ribcage. For those of us who are in the 'petite' range, I don't think there is enough distance there; even at my skinniest when I was in my 20s, I always looked cut in half when I wore a dress with a gathered skirt. So this look, as they say, is not for everyone.

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  10. Oh, I could see myself using that technique. I have already been thinking of new ways to make tutus or skirts that have more fullness for children's cloths and costumes something new, and unique. I am thinking of modifying the hip pad technique to manipulate a skirt into a flower skirt with real flower shape.
    I have never seen or even heard of hip pads. I love the technique, and the look.

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  11. Interesting idea! My initial thought was "no more padding on my hips!" (My hips are two sizes larger than my waist, that's 13 inches and I'm a quite average size girl). But then, I can totally see how the lines of a jacket can be improved and more stable by hip pads.
    So yes, I can see myself trying it (once I gather eunough skills to tailor a jacket).

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  12. I would totally do it. I have absolutely no hips AT ALL (though I do have some T&A...)

    Hip pads I think would round out and smooth out lines quite nicely

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  13. I was so born in the wrong decade. My waist and hips pretty much form that shape all by themselves, so no, I wouldn't want to pad them out any further. I am pleased, though, that at some point a body that depresses the life out of my when I try to buy RTW clothes for it would have been a desirable shape.

    Now, if someone can find me a Tardis, I'm off.

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  14. I think structural tailoring can work for anyone, so even though I have the kind of hip to waist ratio (much broader than in once was) that makes a person laugh to consider accentuating it, I like the idea that the hip pad actually corrals it in a way. Plus, in spite of having nice wide hips, I am afflicted with a behind so flat it's almost concave, so I look for styles or shaping that create an illusion of a tire to make my wheel wells (or something) so that sort of goes hand in hand with the idea of a hip pad.

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  15. I love this pattern. I would definitely try the hip padder out. Although comfortable with my figure, my waist/hip area is definitely more up and down than in and out, so I'm not alwasy happy with how I look in retro styles. Padding hips might be a viable alternative to a corset and would definitely allow me to carry on eating and breathing.

    But it just goes to show, we've always been using technology to alter our figures.

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  16. Very interesting indeed that a pattern exists for that. I actually worked at Christian Dior for a while 4 years ago and I can tell you that the new versions of the Bar jacket (there is at least one every season as it's a classic of the House) are still padded. I had the opportunity to try one on, and it does not feel uncomfortable at all (well it's Dior after all, it's not supposed to be uncomfortable) but it did not really work with my figure (am already pear shaped) and with my current closet. But it was funny anyway !

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  17. I say bring it on! This is what fashion is all about. Rediscovering what used to be and making it work for the now. And saying poo poo to what the masses are trying to tell us is "good". Yeah Gertie! :)

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  18. For me, it depends on whether it would make the suit feel stuffy or uncomfortable. I have been pulling shoulder pads out of anything they came in since I was a child (I think the soft shoulder looks more feminine & my shoulders are broad enough), and I positively refused to wear a girdle under my gorgeous, one of a kind, 50's wedding dress that was sewed for me by a former clothing designer. I know he had hoped I would wear a girdle and padded bra, but I had always dreamed of a wedding at which I could eat and breathe comfortably. I am sure I sacrificed a little of the look of this dress, but I felt gorgeous in it anyway. I am all for comfort first, which is part of why I got interested in sewing- I'm hoping to improve my style with well fitted clothing.

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  19. I had never thought of this... I don't think I'd pad the front (I don't need any help with my pooch, thanks!) but I think i'd wear them on the back or the sides, but is that an option?

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  20. Fascinating post, Gertie, thank you so much! Hip pads are an intriguing idea, and it's surprising how shocking they seem (my jaw dropped open when I saw your post.) I don't know if I could bring myself to use them -- I grew up with aspirations to be a ballet dancer, so it's taken me long enough to accept that hips themselves aren't evil...

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  21. Definitely, if my hips weren't already two sizes bigger than my waist. I guess I'm lucky because not only do I love the look, but it's also the one that best fits my natural shape (although given the choice, I'd probably opt for the hips pads rather than the extra inches...).

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  22. You know, the biggest shock to me was recently learning that Dior's post-war look did not use any cinching on the waist (girdles for no jiggle, probably although it's not mentioned) -- his models were all painfully thin from rationing so they padded them out at bust and hips to make them look like girls and the result gave them insane hourglass figures. I'm sure that after a few years of eating again they did have to add waist cinchers, but the original look was the result of emaciation. Scary!! (Jonathan Walford's Forties Fashion, an amazing book)

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  23. I prefer to stick to my own ample organically grown padding, thank you very much! :)

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  24. Sure I'd do it! Wider hips give the appearance of a smaller waist. Very sexy hourglass.

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  25. Wellll...I worry that I'd have to turn sideways to get through doorways, but as it is not truly padding I'd be willing to give it a shot.

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  26. It's interesting how people get surprised and even repulsed by the idea of hip-pads. They've precisely the same purpose as the shoulder pads - creating the desired silouette.
    I'd totally use hip pads. I'm like Tania from the first comment and some smoothing out between the waist and widest part of the hip is so much desired. I wish I had that smooooth line... Obcessed with smooth lines am I!
    But Gertire, thank you so much for sharing all the construction details. I'm out there taking notes every time you post them, So please, please, pretty please! Do share with us any experiments with shoulder/hip/whatev pads you happen to make. I remember Casey promising a tutorial for a shoulder pad, but either I've missed it or she never got to posting it. Sob sob.

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  27. Anna, Casey definitely posted a shoulder pad tutorial. It was in the last couple weeks!

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  28. Of course I'll pad my hips! (I don't have any) even I find it little difficult to do...perhpas when you do it you should show us a tutorial.
    I really would like to see that red suit you have with those things!
    I LOVE the new look siluete!!

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  29. Unlike Tania, I would do anything to move the widest part of my hips *downwards*. I am H-shaped and the widest part of my hips is only 3-4" below my waist. Just once I'd like to have the appearance of an hourglass figure...

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  30. For me, it's not so much about padding the hips as it is giving structure to the hips. Even if we have full hips, the shape afforded in these kinds of inner structures in tailored clothes is what makes them look so sharp! So, yes! I would... I would love a nicely tailored and wasp waisted suit!

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  31. Oh, I love New Look suits! Of course, I've also been in love with the Victorian era pretty much since birth so it kind of follows. I don't think everyone can pull off padding hips, just like not everyone can pull off padding shoulders (yours truly included) but you don't know 'til you try. Give it a whirl!

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  32. I'd give it a try and see how it looked. If It looked good, I'd be willing.

    Trudy
    www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

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  33. Gertie, after I finished padding my dress form out recently (with Sharon), trust me, I don't need to add anything to these womanly curves of mine.

    That being said, I think the padding could be useful in places where one might need height or width.

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  34. Since I only recently decided to start sewing again, I've only made a few different skirts in the last 15 years - mostly a-line or bias a-line. Last month I made a basic gathered skirt with a wide waistband (a la your skirt tutorial from last fall) and I was surprised at how much I liked the fit. I don't have one RTW skirt that comes up to my waist or has any fullness in the skirt but the extra poofyness in the gathered skirt is flattering contrasted to the high and wide waistband.

    It isn't that I need accentuation in the hip area (I also have the 13 inch difference between my waist and hips) but I found that over emphasizing that is more flattering than I would have assumed.

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  35. Thanks so much for sharing this with us Gertie!
    I would definitely wear it if the design called for it, as long as it wasn't unflattering on me! I can't imagine it being heavy or uncomfortable, in fact I doubt you would feel anything - it just hangs there like an ultrashort stiff petticoat!
    When I started making wedding dresses, I was amazed how a full skirt always enhanced the waist - making it look two sizes smaller, and this would have the same effect.
    I think subtle hip padding would look great in your slim suit, as long as it doesn't make the hem stand out from the narrow skirt too much.

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  36. There is no need for me to pad my hips, haha...I already have enough curves! ;) Interesting concept though.

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  37. I am a hip pad, so no competition for me. However, if my hips were smaller, I'd wear 'em.

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  38. Have you, or your readers, seen the great video at Worn Through on the history of underwear? http://www.wornthrough.com/2010/07/21/fashion-history-video-history-of-underwear/ I think it gives great insight on how both undergarments and the ideal of women's figures has changed over the centuries.

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  39. I have a vintage suit jacket with hip pads. It looks great! The padding is very light, and creates a smoothing effect while helping to emphasise the waist.

    I don't have a long torso, and I don't wear a girdle. I doubt I could pull off heavy padding or a full skirt, but with a pencil skirt, it's a good look for me.

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  40. Oh my! No, I think I will leave the hip padding in the past. I'm paranoid about my hips already so I can well do without the extra worry. I can see how they work and under the correct garment would give a lovely shape, but I'm not brave enough to do it.

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  41. I think that it would really help to tailor a jacket nicely, but I do not think that I would pad my hips on a regular basis. Mainly because by the time I've got my gathered skirt on with a petticoat underneath, there is plenty going on with my hips!

    xox,
    b. of Depict This!

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  42. Would I wear the hip shaping? Yes, I have worn vintage jackets with heavily interfaced and tailored hips which makes them fit smoothly over the hips like a riding jacket. Very chic, I think.

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  43. Hip padding? well, I have mine naturally.

    Bust padding? I do that everyday, lol.

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  44. Luckily I have no problems in the hip and rear area nor the waist. Otherwise I would give the hip pads a try. However I could see the use of it to create a more 'hour glass' type figure for someone who has a boyish figure if that is the the look they want. You know, make the waist look smaller by creating hip structure. Don't know if that is the idea behind the hip padding. But I guess a belt at the waist might work just as well.

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  45. I'm pretty happy with my hips as they are, I'm not sure how comfortable hip padding would be. It's the shoulder pads I hate. I used to get teased for having such broad shoulders (one sweet boyfriend once called me his little line backer) and I have enough trouble fitting in rtw shirts.
    Having kids broadened my hips just enough to balance my shoulders, so I don't think I'd want to mess with it anymore. The only place I like padding is in my bras. ;)

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  46. Thx, Girtie! I'll check it out! ;>

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  47. That's so fascinating! I love the idea of emphasising the hips, but I really don't think mine need padding!

    xx Charlotte
    Tuppence Ha'penny Vintage

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  48. i LOVE this! i'm a definite pear -but i would never wear shoulder pads, or a padded bra (even though i have smaller shoulders and wear a 34AA...), but i would love to have hip pads! it's like updated panniers (which i would also wear in an everyday setting if i could get away with it...)
    i can't wait to see what you do with this :)

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  49. You are kidding, right? Why would I want to widen the widest part of my body right now??? If my hips are any bigger I couldn't go through the doorway of my double closet. :) PaT

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  50. Hmmm... this could be the answer to a slight problem I have with the Simplicity 4911 suit that I've made.
    The jacket has a lovely curve from the waist to the hips, but one of the seams curves out so far and then collapses.
    I haven't posted the pics on my blog yet of the finished suit - it's too damned cold in melbourne to muster the enthusiasm to try anything on at the moment - but I think the flop will be all too apparent.
    I was going to try and stiffen the seam but this is an interesting idea...

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  51. I'd do it for the tailoring, not for the body shaping. My hips are already wayyy wider than my waist (13") Very cool that you scored this guide though! I've seen that New Look suit and wondered how they formed the jacket just so.

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  52. If I were so unfortunate to need to do so, I would totally pad my hips!

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  53. I usually wear a 0 or 2 and was skeptical about buying something marked as "one size fits most." That's almost never a good idea. I was pleased to find that this looked like it was made for me when I put it on. There's not much coverage to be had, mind you, but that's the entire idea.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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