Saturday, December 19, 2009

Coat Vlog #7: Interlining for Warmth

Interlining is a subject that caused me a lot of distress when I was first approaching this business of sewing a tailored coat. But it all boils down to just two major things you need to figure out: 1) what kind of interlining to use and 2) how to attach it.

To figure out which type of interlining to use, I took a swatch to the store with me and tried layering it with a couple different options. I opted for lambswool, which is very warm and will keep me from freezing as I walk back and forth to the subway each day. Next, I decided to attach my lambswool interlining to my lining pieces and then sew them all together as one, which is the method my tailoring book recommended and it made the most sense to me. Watch as I demonstrate each step in this video!

I purchased my lambswool at Greenberg & Hammer here in New York. You can order from them by mail, if you're interested.


  1. I'm learning so much through your blog... Thank you so so much!

  2. Are you still going to make the raglan-sleeve coat?
    And how do the cats feel about lambswool?

  3. Enabler! I just spent half an hour looking at the Greenberg and Hammer catalog.

    Thanks for the link!

  4. Gertie, How are you finishing your seams? are you serging everything since it is all on the inside because the coat is lined or are you serging the lining and doing something different with the wool?

    Have a great (warm) holiday in AZ!

  5. I just wanted to say that your blog is great and your coat "vlog" posts are very interesting. I'm looking forward to see it finished and I wish I can do one as beautiful as yours will certainly be :)
    So please keep going on the coat posts and the other kind of posts ;)
    -- Litchi

  6. It's an inspiring series, Gertie -- I find that I don't really know anyone who sews, and it's such a solitary activity anyway -- it's really good fun peeking over your shoulder! I am consistently awed that you just pin and sew. I am a baster -- I ALWAYS baste any kind of tricky sewing -- like that sleeve easing you did. I would have based on the interlining too. But you forged ahead! The fabrics look beautiful together. You are going to wear this coat for years. What a wonderful project. And it's nearing the end.

    With regard to seam finishes, you don't need to finish seams in a lined garment -- they are covered by the lining and won't be subjected to wear. Lining is a great time-saver that way! But maybe Gertie has a different idea?

  7. Hi guys! You know, I hadn't planned to finish any of the seams since it's fully lined. Bu then it ocurred to me that the lining is free-hanging, though it will be tacked all around. I wonder if I should at least pink the lining seams? I'm not worried about coat fabric--it's a very tightly woven flannel and doesn't fray.

    And k, I will definitely still make the raglan sleeve coat! Probably in a lighter fabric for fall. The cats have not voiced any opinion either way on lambswool . . . but I was thinking of making them a little bed with the leftovers. :)

  8. I think by the end of this series, Jeff will be able to sew his own coat, too! ;)

  9. Brilliant video, Gertie!

    Thanks so much!

    Great, tasteful choice of fabrics.

    Happy Xmas! :)

  10. Love the vlogs. Great post on the princess seams and interlining. I now have to buy applique scissors. :)

  11. I was so excited to find your blog. I recently bought several circa-1960 patterns, one of which is a coat. I am as we speak in the process of making the (3/4 sleeve, straight, knee-length) coat out of winter-white cashmere/mink/wool. I've just finished the bound button-holes, welt pockets (terrifying)and facings. Getting ready to do the top-stitching, lining (black/cream silk charmeuse) and interlining (lambswool). You look so calm. It will probably turn out fine, but I've worked on it for 6 days straight. Anyway, seeing your postings has helped keep me motivated.

  12. That was such a useful VLOG...thanks so much! Quick question - do you think that you could french seam a princess seam or do you think that would cause problems (I'm about to start work on the Lady Grey coat)?

  13. First, I love your vlogs.

    I'm in the process of sewing my first coat and I have a few questions...

    Can flannel be used as interlining attached to the lining fabric or should it be attached to the outer fabric?

    How much lambswool interlining did you use?


Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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