Thursday, December 3, 2009

Coat Vlog #4: Tailoring the Collar

Here I am, once again documenting my coat-making experience! Today, watch the drama unfold (not really) as I grade and notch the collar seam allowances. Also, want to meet my adorable cat Henry? There's another video below!

How's that for a cute kitteh?

P.S. If you're looking for the applique/duckbill scissors that I mention in the non-cat video, click here. I don't know how I lived without these things! Buy yourself a pair; you won't regret it.

Also, here's a link to diagonal basting instructions. Diagonal basting is really just a large pad stitch.


  1. Deffo gotta get some of those duckbill scissors! I have seen them before and wondered what they were about but never investigated. Thought they had something to do with embroidery. now I can see what a boon they would be when grading collars.

    Thankyou for the Henry footage!!!

  2. Gertie, I really am enjoying this series. I've trimmed and graded a thousand seams but I've never seen anyone *else* do it -- this vlogging is really pretty cool. Thank you so much for taking the time.

    You coat is shaping up beautifully.

    (OK, this is the cautious me -- I would hand-baste all the sections together for fitting before sewing permanent seams. I know, I know, you made a muslin, but coat fabric and muslin are not the same... I would definitely put together all the major pieces and shrug it on before permanently sewing, setting in sleeves, etc. I know it seems over-cautious to some, but I make close-fitting trousers and jeans a lot and I've found this is really the secret, even when starting with a well-fitting pattern).

  3. I like the Mood bag that is visible in the last frame :)
    Looking good Gertie! I am working my way through the collar on my coat and secretly wishing I had chosen a shawl collar for my first hand-tailoring project.
    Oh well!
    It is fun to learn all these little details, isn't it?

  4. I have never seen those kind of scissors but I'm gonna look for one!
    I'm learning a lot with your vlogs and I can't wait for the next vlog about the sleeves! =)

  5. Looking great! I'm in the process now of working on a peacoat!

  6. Loving the vlogging. It's so much easier to understand for visual learners when you see a vlog! Thanks for the info about the scissors too, I never would have known how to use them otherwise!

    Great to meet Henry :)

  7. A mine of information. It's also great to see it in action. It's just not the same when reading it from a book.

  8. Forget the scissors and coat collar I love Henry and want to see more of him. Is he a Burmese? I have 2 Birmans. I am your new fan Henry.

  9. Oh yay! Thank you so much for this video. I have never seen anyone else grade and trim their seams, so I never knew if I was doing it right. Thanks again. I can't wait to see the setting in of the sleeve!

  10. Your coat is really shaping up beautifully - I am a real sucker for a red coat, and yours looks like a great one! Also, thanks for the demo on the scissors - I always thought they were one of those one-trick ponies that you don't really need, especially if, like me, you don't do much applique, but I see that they could really help me with my recurring problem of trying to grade a seam allowance and instead cutting off both sides short.

  11. I have the duckbill sissors and appreciate you showing me another way to use them. I did buy mine for embroidery. The large blade on bottom gives you a better hance of not cutting into the bottom fabric.
    As someone else mentioned, I've done this before but it is good to see someone else do it. It's always scary to cut the notches in and be careful to not cut the seam thread. How close to the seam thread do you think you cut up to? Right exactly up to it? Or a bit away from it? Thanks.

  12. thanks so much for showing me the duckbill scissors I got me some today and they are fab!

  13. I am working on a vintage vogue jacket V2884 - intimidating! I was working on learning the whole collar and padstitching thing but I was totally confused so I went searching on the internet for info and there you were!

    Thank you so much! I am a visual learner and these videos have been invaluable! I look forward to the sleeve bit - yikes! Happy sewing and thanks again!


Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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