Saturday, November 28, 2009

Coat Vlog #1: Shaping the Undercollar

video

Hello, all! This is the first of a series in which I'll update you on my coat progress as I go along. This whole business of tailoring is completely new to me, so I thought it would be cool to document each step as I learn. See the full post below for a corresponding resource guide!

Resources:
  • The book I refer to is Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket from Creative Publishing International. I just noticed that it's currently 55% off on Amazon!
  • The pattern I'm using is Vogue 8346.
  • If you have trouble locating tailoring supplies such as hair canvas, I suggest contacting Greenberg & Hammer here in New York. They currently have a mail order catalog for download on their website, and have an online shopping feature in the works.
  • I'm including a scan of the pad stitching instruction page from my tailoring book below. (Click the image to see it full-size.) The material isn't mine to reprint, but I thought it might help for you to see one page if you're considering purchasing this text. I hope the copyright police don't arrest me! I highly recommend this book, and it's a steal for $8.57 on Amazon right now.

16 comments:

  1. Love the Vlog format! This post was very helpful. I have never padstitched but a recent project would have definitely benefited from the technique! Thanks for sharing. The coat is looking fantastic.

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  2. This is great! The video is very helpful. Your coat is going to be amazing!

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  3. You are a better woman than I as I would never try this type of sewing. Your coat is going to be wonderful. And red is my favorite color!

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  4. Wow, a lot of work, but that collar is shaping up really nicely. A tailored coat is one of things on my list of stuff I really want to sew, but I don't think I'm quite there yet. I also really like the Tikva trench coat pattern on Burdastyle last week, although maybe without the bubble hem. Anyway, thanks for the informative update. :)

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  5. I am like you in the sense that I have no tailoring experience and I am also sewing a coat. I got this book about 10 years ago (from my sweet DD - she found it on my amazon wish list).
    http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Tailoring-Techniques-Construction-Collection/dp/0870054317
    So, I have read a lot about tailoring in preparation for my first try, too. I do think the book you have is very good for your pattern with the shawl collar. If you were doing a notched lapel collar, I'd recommend the Roberto Cabrero book (I think his technique will yeild a better looking result. And sorry for writing the world's longet comment here, but yes, all that armor underneath the fashion fabric is going to give you a beautiful structure.
    Good on ya for your tenacity & determination. Learning is fun!

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  6. Gertie: I'm new to your blog and I have to say I'm so impressed by your talent - and by you ability to do these tutorials. I've just started sewing. I know very little except everything takes so long and is so mentally painful :-) Of course, the thrill of creating something (not sophisticated like a coat, but simple like a beginner skirt or top) keeps me going.

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  7. You have enlightened me because I have never heard of pad stitching.

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  8. So, the deal with pad stitching is that it establishes - formalizes - makes rigid and permanent - the difference in diameter of the two pieces of material as they go across the curve from stand to collar, right? Is there a better way of saying that? And what are the blue lines that go perpendicular to the pad stitching that is shown?
    And do the vlog posts remind anyone else of the video transmissions in 2001: Space Odyssey, like one's response is oddly atavistic? Not that I don't love the vlogs, because I wouldn't "get" this whole pad stitching thing otherwise.

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  9. Yes! Coat collars are time consuming. I'm currently making a coat for myself and one for my boyfriend for our trip to europe over Christmas and New Year - very labour intensive. It's very unseasonable weather for coat making as we're just coming into summer here. I will look in to getting that book it looks very useful! Lovely video too

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  10. I love the vlog. You are making me feel like I can attempt this someday. See how much your work means to so many!! Thankyou. I'm going to watch this coat being made all the way through and then I am going to make one too.

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  11. You are a glutton for punishment! Just kidding...congratulations on the padstitching. My only advice to anyone going this route (I have made two jackets in a tailoring class with this method) is MAKE SURE YOU PICK A CLASSIC STYLE THAT WILL ENDURE THE TEST OF TIME. Never put that much work into a coat or jacket that is too trendy. This garment will outlast you so beware. Gertie, yours will always be stylish.

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  12. Your coat is going to be fabulous! I'm a BIG fan of tailoring. I'm clearly a glutton for punishment because I will tailor even the most trendiest jacket that I probably will not wear next year. Hey, I enjoy the process.

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  13. OK, I have no informative input to provide on the coat topic (apart from "woah, that looks great! and complicated!", which is not very helpful).

    But I find the blue top/dress you're wearing very nice :D

    (So, I'm a clothes addict, so what ? :) )

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  14. I just found your blog about a month ago and I love it. I've also been contemplating making a 'real' coat lately. I've made a couple of SIMPLE trenches just using regular interfacing in the past. I've always been intimidated by padstitching and hair canvas but I think you're inspiring me to give it a whirl. I also appreciate your take on the roll line. I always try to shape the roll line of jackets without a muslin and usually end up steaming it out of shape and fiddling with it way too much. Argh. I think I'll try the muslin route.

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  15. You're darling :)

    I recently had my first pad-stitching experience too and you have my sympathies. It makes it look awesome but WHOO BUDDIES does it take a long time. I thought I was going to run out of documentaries on Hulu before I was done

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  16. About the book.....

    This was originally released as a Singer Sewing Reference Library Book and I read reviews on these books for ages. The ONLY bad reviews is that people bought the reissued prints that didn't say SSRL on them, so they ended up with 2 copies. I figured if that was the only bad review, these books might be worth it.

    So I checked Ebay and I ended up winning an auction with 10 of these books. Perfect fit (pattern alterations and diagnostics with pictures to identify what your problems are) and Tailoring (the book you have listed here) were included in the 10 and are absolutely fabulous!! I HIGHLY recommend any of the SSRL books for anyone who's learning and putting together their own library of reference books. Some of the best money I've spent on sewing. Ever.

    Oh and my mom has had a pair of the "duckbill" applique scissors as long as I can remember and they have stayed very sharp all these years.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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