Monday, October 12, 2009

All Zipped Up

Exposed zippers have been everywhere lately, haven't they? I'm not usually one to go for super trendy styles, but this is one that intrigued me, so I added one to my latest dress project. I like how the utilitarian zipper adds a bit of toughness to an otherwise sweet and pretty dress.

Last spring's issue of Sew Stylish magazine had a tutorial for inserting an exposed zipper, and the instructions were excellent. Seriously, I was very impressed. (Thanks, Sew Stylish!) If you'd like to order a copy of that issue, look here.

Here's the front of the dress!


This is McCall's 5971, and it is also excellent. I never really knew what people meant when they say a pattern is well-drafted, but now I do. This is a well-drafted pattern. The various pleats and darts all lined up easily and it just went together like a dream.

I made it in a bright blue wool crepe from New York Elegant Fabrics, which has an excellent selection of wool crepes and gabardines in fabulous jewel tones, mostly for $18.95 a yard. The bodice is lined in a black silk habutai.

I usually make a size 14 in McCall's patterns, but I sized down to a 12 for this dress, and I'm so glad I did. I just had to add a little more ease to the hips, and it fits like a glove.

Here's what it looks like with black tights and ankle boots.

And here's what it looks like when I'm doing the robot!

Anyway, I highly recommend this pattern. Has anyone else tried it? Also, what do you think of the exposed zipper trend?

48 comments:

  1. I love the color and cut and fabric of the dress, but I can't abide the exposed zipper...reminds me too much of the 80s (and I was only a child in the 80s, but it reminds me of images I've seen of the 80s) in a way that steps over the nostalgia line for me.

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  2. I love the dress and the colour, and your construction looks exquisite from here. The exposed zipper is cool, and makes it look seriously like something you would pay a lot for at a fashion house. The whole effect is totally autumn-winter on-trend fabulous. And presumably being home-made has the advantage that if, in two seasons' time, you don't like the exposed zipper any more, you could take it out and replace it with a normal zipper. Can't do that with off-the-peg!

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  3. I love the dress, it looks great on you. However I can't say I'm a fan of the exposed zipper. They HAVE been everywhere lately but it's just not my thing at least not with this much contrast.

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  4. Love how the dress came out and the color. But I must say I am not a fan of the exposed zipper. That is one trend I can live without.

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  5. Fabulous dress! Where did you get the zipper from?

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  6. I love the color and the fit of this dress. And I like the exposed zipper as well, although not on really fancy dresses like I've seen some places. Vogue just came out with a knit dress pattern sporting the exposed zipper that I really love. Thanks for the link to some instructions for this technique.

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  7. After I posted my previous comment I remembered that, earlier this year I made a skirt with an exposed zipper. I guess it's the contrast in color that's throwing me here.

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  8. The dress looks great on you and I love your robot pose! I don't like the exposed zippers, but I think I am just a little too old for that trend!! I am planning to make a Burda skirt from a year ago that has an exposed zipper, but I am going to switch it to a side invisible zipper.
    I am glad others like the trend, though. I like seeing lots of different styles of clothing, even if they are ones I wouldn't wear!

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  9. I love the exposed zipper look. I agree that it makes a pretty dress edgy and it is something that an older woman, me, can wear to get a trendy, edgy look without being overexposed or looking too young. The dress is great on you; the fit in the derriere is perfect and along with the zipper gives you, if I may say so, a very sexy rear view.

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  10. I have a dress with an exposed zipper on the front and I think it's cool. As long as it's not on every dress.

    And you are so cute in your glasses! :-) I love the dress, must get that pattern also.

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  11. I love this dress. The fit is perfection! I'm in the yay cap on the exposed zipper. I posted about them a few weeks ago - on a classic piece they can temper the "primness", like with your dress.

    Thanks for pointing out this pattern - on the envelope I thought the neckline was too severly sweetheart, but it does not look that way sewn up. Will have to grab it at the next McCall's sale.

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  12. I never would have thought that I would like an exposed zipper, but it looks so stylish on this dress that you made. That fabric and the color is fabulous. It looks so great on you. Regarding the robot photo, I love seeing the fun side of you. It shows a different side to your personality that we didn't know. It's great getting to know you better.

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  13. Interesting that exposed zippers are such a dividing issue! (Corny pun intended.) I have to say, after I put it in, I first thought, "good god, what have I done?!" but it's totally grown on me. I think it makes the dress look a bit higher-end that it might otherwise!

    Erica B., I think I got the zipper at Pacific Trim in NYC. It's been in my stash for a while now.

    Thanks for the nice comments, everyone!

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  14. Wow, great dress! I must say, it looks much better on you than the model on the cover of the pattern! I've always loved exposed zippers, it gives it a dash of Vivienne Westwood.

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  15. Beautiful dress! I love the jewel color! I just bought this pattern on sale. I don't really like the exposed zipper trend, but yours looks great. I think I may have to reconsider!

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  16. Excellent dress for doing the robot! Hilarious!

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  17. I saw that zipper treatment on a soap opera I watch! I love it!

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  18. Wow, that dress is so cute and beautifully fitted. And the exposed zipper really works. Love it!

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  19. That dress is beautiful! The color is great.

    I only have one dress with an exposed zipper, but it wasn't intentional. I don't wear that dress much.

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  20. And I completely agree with whoever said it looked much nicer on you than the model on the pattern!

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  21. I give my vote to the exposed zipper - very bespoke touch. And I agree that your version of the dress is much nicer than the pattern envelope - I'd wear your version in a heartbeat!

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  22. i love the exposed zipper. i missed it in the 80s so its fresh to me. great job

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  23. That looks awesome! The fit is incredible! I like the zipper it adds some rock and roll to an otherwise conservative dress. I also like the black tights and boots. You rock that dress!

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  24. Schiaparelli used a lot of exposed zippers in her designs in the 20s, so it can't be bad. :)

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  25. That dress looks amazing on you, Gertie! Love the color, love the fit. You did a fabulous job!

    I like my clothes to be pretty classic so they work for several seasons. So I don't think I'd go for an exposed zipper... if this is a trend that runs its course fairly quickly, I'd hate to be left with unwearable outfits.

    But Hanna above mentioned removing the zipper and putting in a normal one later, which is really appealing. I suppose to do that you'd have to leave a larger seam allowance to later take the place of the exposed tape? I can't quite picture how that would work, but I like the idea...

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  26. How cute are you, with the robot. I just bought this dress pattern, at a 99 cent sale, can't wait to try it now. Love the whole look.

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  27. The dress suits you so beautifully! I wasn't too sure about the exposed zipper thing before, but you've totally converted me! So cool.

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  28. I love your dress! I saw a skirt awhile ago that used exposed zippers in place of hip darts, I thought it looked really cool!

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  29. Gorgeous!!! Great choice of dress for using the exposed zipper too; I agree it edges up the dress nicely without being overdone-- really nice juxtaposition of classic and bold!

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  30. Nice work, Gertie. The fit is great! I've been contemplating making a skirt with an exposed zipper. It seems like a cooler weather feature to me, for some reason.

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  31. Fabulous dress! It looks great on you - the color and the fit. And as much as I've been hesitant about the exposed zipper trend, I really like it on your dress.

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  32. I'm a fan of the exposed zipper and love it on your dress. Thanks for the pointer to the tutorial too!

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  33. I admire your sewing and tailoring skills. I have this issue of Sew Stylish (which is crazy on the cover) - and thought that zipper project was striking - it's cool to see it in a design. Thanks for your blog I love it.

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  34. Totally rad! I love the exposed zip, and the colour of the dress! Such a nice fit too.

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  35. Love the dress and might try the pattern. Its the perfect dress to wear under a coat I'm making right now. The exposed zip is great - not sure that I agree with Knitosaurus that it was an 80s thing. The 70s and 80s were my era and they weren't in any of the patterns I was using or shops I frequented. This could be a topic from further research!?

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  36. Oh cool, I've always thought about the exposed zipper and wondered if it was easier at all. I'm actually fantastic at putting zips in, but like variety/challenge

    I might have to check that pattern out too... very flattering

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  37. I just adore the exposed zipper. I like the edginess. And I have to tell you, Gertie, you look fabulous in your specs.

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  38. That dress is amazing and the cut really makes you look fantastic! I would have passed over that pattern looking at it in the books but I just might reconsider. I'm not a fan of the exposed zipper, but only because my hair is long and gets caught up in them. Seeing as I have no ability to do an updo of any sort I really can't get into this trend. Maybe I could be convinced with an example in a skirt???

    Btw, very jealous of your easy access to amazing fabric. It makes me realize with every post just how limited Joann's fabric selection really is.

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  39. I love how the exposed zipper adds a bit of toughness to this dress! It looks so sexy from the front, and then the surprise in the back--so cool! :)

    (Love the last photo, btw! ;)

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  40. Your dress is beautiful and it looks great on you. I wasn't a fan of the exposed zipper, but my daughter loved it and I think I just have to get used to the idea, I also love that color on you.

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  41. for anyone who wants to make a garment with an exposed zipper, the sew stylish tutorial is online
    http://www.craftstylish.com/item/49907/how-to-sew-an-exposed-zipper

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  42. Fantastic fit and colour! I love the exposed zipper, I have a few things with a nice fat one up the back and I'm still not sick of them. I didn't even consider it a trend and therefore something I might tire of until a friend I was shopping with balked at trying on anything with one for fear it would get old. But for me, so far, so good! And Marni has been doing it for years so there must be something to it!

    Thanks for including me in your blogs list, it helped me discover your blog which is just fantastic! I'm ashamed to say I've had a brand new sewing machine sitting here for over 2 years, I tried to thread it and thought I got it until I started sewing and it looped. And I have no one to help me, it so sad! ♥

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  43. I'm super jealous of your sewing skills! Beautiful dress, you're gorgeous!

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  44. Gertie, you look so much BETTER than the pattern model. They should have hired you! Gorgeous project, by the way...

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  45. Wow! I want that dress, in about 5 different colours!

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  46. Gertie I want to make this dress and have bought the pattern. Can you tell me if it would work in a lighter fabric? I'm wanting to use some Alexander Henry fabric I love. Many thanks o'wise one!

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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