Wednesday, August 5, 2009

"The Full, Gathered Skirt"

My fourth finished project from Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing! I was going to make it in cotton gingham, as the book suggested. Then, well . . . I discovered that there is such a thing as silk taffeta gingham. Cotton would no longer suffice.




"A gathered skirt is just about the most useful skirt you could have . . . it's becoming . . . it mixes with all your blouses and sweaters . . . A beginner should make it in about four hours. As you get more experienced, it will take even less time." - VoNBBS


This skirt took me, um, longer than four hours. In fact, my husband turned to me last night and said, "Are you still working on that?" The reason for this was two-fold: 1) I kept messing up. And 2) I was really really good about following the directions. I basted by hand! I made gathering stitches by hand! And - you're not going to believe this - I overcasted all the seam allowances by hand. It was terrible. It took forever.

Here's a view of the inside:

The gathering was the part that kept tripping me up. Seriously, if you're going to gather with taffeta and then baste it to a waistband, I really recommend doing all the basting by hand. Seriously. I basted it to the waistband (the first time) by machine, and it was a sorry sight. The gathers were all uneven and crazy-looking. I had to rip it all out and redo it by hand.

But anyway. This skirt is extremely fun to wear. Because of the stiffness of the taffeta, it stands out as though I were wearing a crinoline.

Besides using a different fabric than the one recommended, I also did my usual alteration of shortening from tea length to knee length. Also, for once I actually had to make a vintage pattern smaller instead of larger. Doris was a wee bit more voluptuous than I, so I took 3 inches out of the waistband pattern piece by slashing and overlapping. I left the skirt piece the same size since it was just going to get gathered anyway.

One thing I've been doing with my VoNBBS projects is to use the same color seam binding on all my hems. This has gotten me to think of the garments as part of an integrated collection. I like it.

Here are inside views of three of the garments, so you can see the seam binding:



VoNBBS closed the instructions for this pattern with the following directives:
"Press skirt on wrong side. Now, turn to right side and - quick! - freshen your makeup, slip into a sweater or blouse - then, your skirt - and show the world what you made - and at such a saving!"
Thanks, VoNBBS! Next up is the "bonus project" from the book - the backless halter dress featured on the pattern envelope above.

39 comments:

  1. that skirt is gorgeous! and the description at the end of the instructions even better (if that were possible)

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  2. The skirt is adorable! And I love the seam binding being a different color. Hope it wasn't too late to "freshen your makeup" and go out when you finished.

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  3. Oh! I love it! The way the taffeta stands out and poufs is just so fun! :)

    The little snippets of text you keep posting from VoNBBS is always entertaining. I love how it's as if the authors of the book were talking to you. hehe!

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  4. That's absolutely gorgeous and very inspiring. Where did you get the silk taffeta from?

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  5. Thanks everyone! I'm glad you're as amused by the VoNBBS text as I am.

    Karen, the taffeta is from Mood here in New York. They have a wonderful selection of taffetas--polka dots, plaids, checks, you name it!

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  6. I thought I was looking at a color photo from the book! I love it especially with the shoes. Do you use a tripod or does your husband take your cute photos? I might have to fire my under age 10 photographers--they are only good with the iphone which isn't a good quality pic and can't figure the "high tech" camera. My dh isn't much better/patient!

    I never knew there was such a thing as silk taffeta! I just know about the synthetic stuff that prom and bridemaid dresses are made of. Thanks for the tip.
    You are doing an outstanding job! You might be needed at a couture shop soon!

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  7. I love the skirt! How does it feel to wear the silk taffeta? Is it swishy? Do you need a slip of some sort? It is just lovely!

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  8. Cindy, you are not going to believe the photo set-up I use: a cheapo digital camera with a self-timer set on a pile of books on top of my coffee table. So, yes, I suppose it is a "tripod" of sorts! I used to ask my husband to take them, but he is very impatient too. Plus, I get up at six am to do my photo shoots, and he would definitely not stand for that!

    The taffeta feels a little strange to wear at first. It stands out from my body quite a bit, which makes me feel a little . . . exposed. I'm wearing boyshorts, no slip. I have to make a special point of gathering the skirt around my legs when I walk up the subway stairs. There are lots of perverts here with cell phone cameras and websites!

    And yes, it makes a swishy sound when I walk, which I rawther like!

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  9. That looks amazing!!! I love the seam binding.

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  10. I *adore* your skirt. I love the style, the fabric...fabulous! I would run out to find this pattern but the idea of hand-basting just makes me sad. Maybe I can get over that because I've been looking for a great skirt in this style for fabric I bought last month.

    Again, fabulous!

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  11. Wow, I love that! I think I might need to make one too!

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  12. Hello! I found your blog not too long ago and have really enjoyed reading it.

    I absolutely adore this skirt. The fabric is fantastic, too!

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  13. This turned out so great! It looks just like the picture! And I love the shoes too!

    I really enjoy hearing about all your hand sewing adventures. i really enjoy hand sewing and will readily do something by hand especially when my machine decides to fight with me!

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  14. that skirt is gorgeous! Is just square panels gathered and sewn to a waistband? I'd love to make one for myself!

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  15. The skirt looks amazing!! The pink shoes are perfect with it!! AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  16. This skirt looks soooo much cuter than I expected! The difference that shortening it makes is really striking. Also, I love the taffeta gingham. The bold wide black and white looks really fabulous with the extra poof that you get. I like how the large geometric print interacts with the pleats. Stunning!

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  17. I'm not huge on the vintage look, but that skirt is heaven on a stick (vintage saying from the 50s!). Your construction techniques are great too. I'd never show my garments inside out.

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  18. It's awesome. You're awesome.
    Question; I noticed the band of light and dark for the waistband. Do you like that? Did you have any kind of choice?

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  19. The pattern is a little different than you might expect, only because the seams run up the top of each leg, not at the sides where they'd usually be. But yes, you could definitely get the same effect by using two rectangular pattern pieces and a waistband. I was thinking I'd do a make-your-own-pattern tutorial if you're interested!

    k, I could have avoided that pattern layout on the waistband with a little foresight. It doesn't bother me too much though. I'm just happy all my checks matched up!

    Thanks for reading, everyone! I love seeing your comments!

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  20. I love a tutorial! I'm going on a cruise and I could just see this at the Captain's ball :)

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  21. LOVE IT!
    I just love it! It looks so great!
    I commend you for hand basting and giving us your cautionary tale for dealing with this type of fabric.
    I don't know how you find the time to do all your projects. I am so impressed and inspired.

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  22. Your self made tripod made me laugh. I need to try it--I have all the equipment except for a coffee table!

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  23. That is such a fantastic skirt, looks great! You've inspired me to make something just like it!

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  24. The taffeta is beautiful! It was a good choice--I think the cotton would not have looked near as fabulous.

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  25. That is a beautiful skirt with fabulous fabric!

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  26. gorgeous! love the way it turned out (especially paired with pink shoes).

    must say, i have lived in nyc for 8 years and had never been to mood until today. it was jaw-dropping.

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  27. That is absouletly gorgeous! You mentioned posting a tutorial, and that would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Or perhaps, you could take a photo of the pattern pieces? How much did you spend on the taffeta? Pink is my favorite color, so naturally, I LOVE those shoes! :D

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  28. i love it! but why do I look at this and think I can make it in 2 hours?!!!! I always do that! I'll start with a mini version for the minis and if that works I'll take the plunge and make one for myself...

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  29. I love this skirt. It's incredibly classy! My one query is, why the 4" hem do you think? I was wondering if it was a weight issue, like it might help keep the fabric from flying up every time you get a gust of wind under there? But then what you said about the subway... hm.. thoughts?

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  30. Catherine, I'm not sure about the 4" hem. All my patterns from this year, whether full skirts or slim, have a deep hem. I think you may be onto something with the idea that it would weigh the skirt down. The taffeta is so full it would pouf out no matter what!

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    1. Hello! I was wondering the same thing as Catherine about the deep hem - I'm about to attempt this project in a gorgeous black and cream gingham silk (as soon as I saw it in the store I knew I had to make this skirt!). Is it worth doing the 4" hem for this project, do you think? And I'm not sure if I should attempt to hand stitch the hem or use the 'invisible' hem option on my machine. I've used it once before and it came out ok, but it feels like a risk with such precious fabric. Love to have your thoughts on this! :)

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  31. What a perfect little skirt! Great tips on the taffeta.

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  32. This is so stinkin' cute, I can't stand it. DAISY WANT!

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  33. My grandmother used to say that a silk taffeta slip was the ultimate. I remember where in Gone With The Wind and Rhett bought Mammy a wonderful red taffeta petticoat like his mammy always dreamed of that would rustle when she walked. The deep hem is for weight and also to show the owner could afford the extra fabric. It is very common in heirloom children's clothes because it can be let down as the girl grows.

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  34. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I made this skirt last weekend and it turned out great with your instructions! I'll have to send a pic when i get a chance.

    Happy sewing!

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  35. I like the way it has crinoline volume without the bulk of a underskirt.
    As an avid hand sewer even I wouldn't overcast seams....its either french seams if I'm being neat or pinked if I'm in a hurry.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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