Converting a Skirt Dart to Hemline Flare

A while back, we looked at using the pivot method to move a dart around on a bodice. I thought I'd show you another easy dart technique--this one eliminates a waistline dart on a skirt and turns it into flare at the hemline. It's like magic! Here's what you do, as illustrated on a tiny, not-to-scale front skirt pattern.

You have your basic straight skirt, right?

Draw a line up from the hem to the bottom of the dart.

Cut out the dart, and then slash up the line to the dart, leaving a little hinge.

Open out the slash until the waistline dart closes up.

Ta da! A flared skirt with no dart. Tape the pattern down to a new piece of paper to secure. True the lines at the waistline and the hemline, as shown in red below.

This technique just came in handy when I wanted to eliminate the dart on a skirt for a clean waistline look, while simultaneously adding more flare to the hem.

Slashing and closing a dart will work on a bodice too, to convert the dart to gathers or a dart in a new location. Try it and see!

Cultivating a Scissor Arsenal

Scissors are no doubt one of a sewist's most important tools. It's all well and good to start out with a cheap pair of shears, but pretty soon you'll want to amass a collection of quality cutting tools, each having its own special purpose. I've spent the last couple years figuring out what works for me, so I thought I'd share. This list may seem like overkill, but I really do use all of these quite frequently!

1. Paper Scissors: these should be inexpensive and plentiful in your abode. I seem to have a pair in every drawer, which helps avoid temptation to cut paper patterns with my fabric shears.
2. Dressmaker's Shears: aka the most important pair of scissors you'll own. Get a sharp, high-quality pair that feels good in your hand and cut smoothly. I'm quite partial to my new Kai 10" Shears which are lightweight and smooth as butter. 9" or 11" may work better for you, so try out several. I put a fancy fabric scrap on my handle to discourage "borrowing."
3. Serrated Shears: these aren't a necessity, but they sure are nice. These shears look like standard shears, but they have tiny serrations along the blade, which will help you cut slippery fabrics. You know how regular shears can push a slippery fabric away while you're cutting? The serrated shears grip the fabric instead, making it easy to cut. Of course, another option for slippery fabrics is a rotary cutter.
4. Pinking Shears: I often use these to create a vintage-y finish for seam allowances. Simply trim the two allowances together and you're done!
5. Tailor's points: I couldn't live without these 5" Ginghers. They're perfect for notching and clipping into layers of thick fabrics, like when you're tailoring a coat collar made of heavy wool.
6. Embroidery scissors (top photo, middle): Great for getting into small places and for ripping stitches.
7. Applique scissors: also called duckbill scissors, these ingenius little things have a curved blade that helps you isolate one seam allowance at a time to avoid cutting things you shouldn't. Great for baby hems and grading seam allowances.
8. Snips: I keep these by my machine for quick cutting of threads. Mine are the dollar-bin variety, not these shiny ones.

So that's it, my nearest and dearest scissors. Any you'd like to add, readers? 

Pants Are Weird

{Not my butt; photo courtesy of Colette Patterns}

Have you ever sat around and thought about the way pants are sewn? I spent some time doing just that yesterday and it really messes with one's head. Isn't it kind of mind-blowing the way the pieces sew together to form the shape that they do? Personally, I think that's why they're so hard to fit. It's impossible to look at those flat pieces and understand where all the points are going to end up. For me, anyway.

I fit my Clover pants (modeled yesterday), mostly through an understanding of issues that I have in ready-to-wear: the ever-present gaping back waist and the weirdly low back. But I long to really understand how pants are supposed to fit and how to make them do so. So I went ahead and ordered Pants for Real People, hoping for some major insight.

To be honest, I just don't get the crotch at all. You know how Michael Kors is always shrieking something like "that crotch is craaazy!" on Project Runway? I don't make a lot of pants because I live in fear of the craaazy crotch. I'm hoping that my new fitting book will have a lot of insights into the crotch issue. (Tee hee!)

Are any of you out there pants-fitting wizards? How did you come to understand these wacky bifurcated garments anyway?

P.S. I would be remiss if I didn't mention Colette's great pants-fitting cheatsheet!

Up in the Air in Clover Pants and a Liz Blouse

Technology is an amazing thing, readers. This morning I was rushing out of the apartment to get my flight to Orlando (heading to the Southern Women's Show with BurdaStyle, y'all!) I've made a few separates lately and haven't even gotten around to blogging them (the horror). So after I dressed in my new Colette Patterns Clover pants and BurdaStyle Liz blouse this morning, I had Jeff take a picture with his phone. He then e-mailed it to me, I downloaded it on my laptop, and now I'm writing this from 30,000 feet in the air with in-flight wi-fi. The mind reels.

Anyway, I know it's not the best detail shot, but at least I'm blogging a sewing project, right? The Clover pattern was really quick and fun, and I made it in a thick rayon doubleknit. So comfy! I had some fitting issues in my posterior region, which is--ahem--not insignificant on my frame. I didn't make an official muslin, since I needed a stretch fabric to get the fit right. I took a risk and knew this version may not be wearable, but it totally is, after a few tweaks. I had the very-familiar-to-me problem of a gaping center back seam and the waistband dipping down at the back. The fix for the gaping was easy--I took out an inch at center back. But the dipping was an issue that should be solved in flat pattern by lengthening the back crotch. Instead, I added an inch to the center back top of the waistband, tapering to the side seams. It worked like a charm! I may still have some thigh/front crotch issues to work out, more to come on that exciting topic.

I made the blouse as a sample for season 2 of It's Sew Easy, since I show a simple retro pattern tweak on it in my episode. This version is made in the best fabric of all time, Liberty of London's Carmine print. I could only wear this print and be happy. I could decorate my entire apartment in it and not get sick of it.

So there you have it. An outfit.

Any of you live in Orlando? Anyone going to the Southern Women's Show?

Washing Machine Lust

Well, I'm back from The Sewing Summit in Salt Lake City, and I should be writing about the conference. (In a word: it was fabulous.) But what I really want to write about is washer/dryer combos. Yeah.

You see, when I stayed at my friend's childhood home, her parents had a Whirlpool Duet. This, I learned, is a practically space-age set of appliances. Friends, I was mesmerized. I washed almost everything I brought with me just so I could use it. The washing machine has a "hand wash" cycle that is more delicate than "delicate." It was perfect for my bombshell dress. I watched the entire 20 minute cycle, completely transfixed.

The dryer is just as amazing. Readers, it has a "Quick Refresh Steam Cycle" that is genius. I put my linen suit (which was all wrinkled from traveling) in there, and it came out looking new. There's actually a water hookup for the dryer so you can steam your clothes!

Anyway, I could on. And on. But the point is that this experience practically ruined me for city living. Since I've been home, I've been ogling the cherry red version (above) and looking at real estate listings in the suburbs. Yes. I want to buy a house just so we can get this thing. It will be the most expensive washer/dryer set ever. But pre-washing fabric would actually be fun!

Are any of you so lucky to have a Duet? Also, because I'm curious, what is your garment care situation? Do you have a washer/dryer or do you depend on a laundry mat?

Hi from Salt Lake City!

Dear readers, I'm writing this from Utah with an adorable black cat in my lap. His name is Ed. Isn't he handsome?

I'm here for the Sewing Summit this weekend, and came a bit early with my friend Ashlee, who is originally from Salt Lake. I'm staying at her lovely family's lovely house with this lovely temporary cat, who is helping me bear the separation from my own adorable kitties a bit better. I'm working on my book today and prepping my classes for the Sewing Summit, but don't worry--it's not all work! I'll have time to explore some vintage shops here later today and relax a bit too. And hopefully find some time to play around on Ashlee's mom's amazing vintage sewing machine. It's pink!

I've been so fortunate to see so many parts of the country this year: St. Paul, Cleveland, Novi, and now Salt Lake City. (And Orlando next week!) I've truly liked each one of them, and the change of pace is refreshing. I've been so stressed at home, and traveling can certainly be stressful too. But all the gallivanting has really helped me detach from my day-to-day life, which is a kind of a good thing right now!

More to come on the Sewing Summit and my adventures in Utah! How is everything in your neck of the woods?

Student Spotlight: Debi and Oona

Since I'm teaching so much these days, I thought it would be fun to write about my students and what they're making. And damn, I have some talented, interesting students. Let's start with two ladies you've probably seen around the blogosphere. Oona and Debi came in to take a private lesson with me last week.

Readers, I  can't believe I get paid for this. Hang out with two amazing, funny, charming, sewing enthusiasts for two hours? Yep, I'll take that job! These gals wanted to learn bound buttonholes and a bit about draping. We started with an hour on buttonholes and they picked it up super quickly. I'm a recent convert to the patch method (more on that later) so that's the technique I taught them.

On to hour two. Oona was curious to learn more about draping--which, mind you, I've never actually taught. But I won't let a silly detail like that stop me! I was lucky enough to score a vintage half-size dress form last week (from Sew Fast Sew Easy, which is sadly closing up shop). It's a Wolf, and I've named her Tiny. She's the perfect size for demonstrating and experimenting upon. Oona skipped the basics and made some crazy pleated-shoulder design. It was awesome.

After our lesson, we went out for a lovely Italian dinner. The whole night was just so much fun--exactly what I needed. My cheek muscles got a workout since I pretty much laughed the entire time. Thanks, Oona and Debi!

More to come on my other students and what they're making . . .

Guest Post: Draping a Knit Cowl Dress, Part Two

Hey everyone! Remember this post on draping your own knit cowl dress? Well, our knits expert Alyson is back for a second installment. Enjoy! Also, check out the flier for Alyson's trunk show this weekend in Portland (see flier below). --Gertie

Hello folks, so sorry for the delay on the follow up from the first installment of this draping a knit dress. My life got away from me for a minute there! Got hitched, bought a house, adopted a 3rd dog (adopting senior dogs is the best thing ever), and have been traveling. Don't fret though; I've finished writing up the entire thing now. As Bob Ross would say - I've encountered a few happy accidents with this dress, and I'm finally pleased with how it turned out.

Help Wanted! I Need a Clone for a Day.

Update: the clone position has been filled. Thanks everyone!

Hey readers! I'm on a couple deadlines right now and things are getting a bit much for one person to handle. I looked into cloning myself but I think it might be easier to hire some temporary help. I'm looking for someone, preferably for a few hours tomorrow, who can trace some patterns for me. That's it! Not hard work, but I need a sewist's eye. I can pay a modest hourly rate. The work will be done in Chelsea at The Sewing Studio. Please e-mail me at gretchen@blogforbettersewing.com if you can do it.

How Would You Sew this Neckline?

Happy weekend, readers! For once I am home in my pjs rather than gallivanting around the country. I'm working on a project for an article (that's all I can say about that for now, but more to come) and I've hit a slight roadblock. The question is: what is the best way to sew an illusion neckline like the one on the Peggy Hunt dress above?

A few thoughts:

1. I originally thought this kind of yoke would be made in a mesh illusion fabric, but later decided it must be chiffon. It has a floatiness (is that a word?) to it rather than the fitted mesh of a figure skater's costume.
2. I can only find this kind of design addressed in one sewing book, Singer's out-of-print Sewing for Special Occasions. The text suggests making a double layer of sheers--one is a lining and one is the outer layer. Sew right sides together, trim down the seam allowances, and flip right sides out. The problem with this method is that a double layer spoils the super-sheer effect of the dress above. I can't imagine that it's more than one layer.
3. The neckline above seems to resemble a serger's rolled hem, no? It looks more like thread than fabric at the edges. Do you think that's possible given the time period? Also, would you use a serger rolled hem around a curved neckline? I would worry about stretching out the bias.
4. The other option is to bind the neckline with self fabric. But it seems that would give a wider effect rather than the narrow edge in the photo. (And also be a major pain to sew in chiffon!)

Whew! I've been thinking about this a lot--can you tell?  I'd love to hear your thoughts. And here a couple more Peggy Hunt beauties to get your creative wheels turning.

All these photos were taken from this Peggy Hunt photo collection on Flickr. I credit Sarai with introducing me to its wonders!