Yellow Poplin Tropical Sundress

Dear readers, I'm writing this from Arizona! I'm staying with my mom for a couple weeks so I could do some serious sewing without distractions (of course, there have been all sorts of distractions including both of us getting sick, fires to put out at home, and shoe shopping). But the idea was this: my new book is coming out, and it perfectly coincides with the release of my new spring fabric line with Joann. So we'd spend two weeks making all new dresses from the book in the new fabrics, and in the meantime we'd break in Mom's new sewing room. What could be better? I've been doing regular updates on Instagram and Facebook, if you're interested in that kind of thing.

For the first dress, I chose this cheerful yellow and pink Hawaiian print poplin.

I knew I wanted a sundress silhouette, so I chose two of the mix and match skirt and bodice patterns from the book: the strapless bodice and three-quarter circle skirt.

It's similar to the Red Eyelet Sundress, but I used the sweetheart neckline option rather than the straight-across neckline. It's like a Choose Your Own Dress Adventure!

The construction is almost exactly what's described in the book, including a full lining. I used a lovely sunny yellow Kona cotton for the lining. The bodice is fully boned for support. Here it is in progress!

Incidentally, the hair scarf is made from this cotton lawn. I love how the two fabrics look together!

I had always intended this dress to have some sort of halter strap, as that's just something I associate with Hawaiian sundresses. So I made this easy gathered strap that snaps in.

I just made an 8" x 24" rectangle, and sewed it into a tube, then angled the ends so they'd sit properly when worn. I gathered the ends and the middle of the strap, tying off the bobbin threads. I finished off the ends with self binding, and then added snaps.

 

 I like the halter option, but I think strapless is my favorite for this dress, unexpectedly!
I'll have a lot more dresses to show you; in fact we've already completed several more. I'll tell you more about the fabrics as they ship into stores. Some of them are already available online though! Also, for you international readers, I will have fabrics available for sale in my etsy shop. More to come!

Cover Reveal! Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book

I've been so excited to blog this one because I am IN LOVE with this cover! My next book, Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book, is now up on Amazon for pre-order. It's releasing in March 2016.

Here's a little info on the book:

Every vintage-obsessed sewist dreams of having a closet full of gorgeous dresses. The follow-up to the popular Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing and Gertie Sews Vintage Casual, Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book is packed with all the information and patterns you could ever need to create a wardrobe filled with stunning vintage frocks. The book begins with all the essential techniques for dressmaking and includes instructions and patterns for 23 dresses for a variety of occasions. Elements of each pattern can be mixed and matched, allowing readers to customize the bodice, skirt, sleeves, pockets, and details of each dress for a truly unique creation.

The dress on the cover is called the Emerald Faille Party Dress and it's made from an amazing silk faille. It has a super structured boned bodice and very full skirt: it's a circle skirt with box pleats all around. The skirt and bodice are basic patterns included with the book, and then I show you how to make your own special details for each dress, like the halter strap (it closes with little rhinestone buttons in the back) and the bias band that goes across the bodice. There are tons of construction techniques like lining, underlining, using horsehair on hems and necklines, working with lace and beaded fabrics, and lots more.

I can't wait to show you more from the book!

P.S. Did you spot Henry on the cover?

Snow Day, Sew Day!

We've been hit with lots of snowstorms in the Hudson Valley this winter, and I can't help but love it. Is there anything better than watching the snow fall from a cozy vantage point sitting at a sewing machine? The past year has seen some changes for me, including going back to work part time (more on that some other time) so I have to take my sewing hours where I can get them. And there have been a LOT of sewing hours recently.

I'm working on my next book, which will most likely be called Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book. I'm making 25 dresses. When I plan these things, it always seems so do-able and natural. "Of course I'll make 25 dresses for the book! Any other number would be insane!" I don't know if trying to make 25 dresses in a relatively short period of time is a sign of insanity, but it certainly causes it.

In good news, I'm on dress 24 and I'm proud to say that I couldn't be more excited about this project. The most difficult thing about making sewing books for me is trying to get my vision to align with the finished product. Things always seem to shift and change along the way of course, but there's always a fundamental concept that I want to come through in the end. (In my first book, the concept was vintage couture inspired by Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing; in my second book, the concept was the way vintage can be sewn and worn in our everyday lives.) Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be happening more often than not on this project, so I'm happy as can be.

There's also something to be said for sewing 25 of one thing in a row. 25 zippers, 25 hems, etc. Just logging in those hours in the sewing room makes one a better seamstress. How could it not? I can't share the dresses with you yet, but I've sprinkled this post with some little detail shots that I've been taking along the way. And a cat.

In other news, I have a new Butterick pattern out! B6167 is a dress meant to get us all thinking about the warmer days to come. It's made here in one of my new fabrics that will be available in Joann stores next month. I love roses, polka dots, and border prints, so . . . why not all three?!

The dress has a boned bodice, a gathered bust inset, straps, and a full gathered skirt. 

I hope you love it!

For those of you in this stormy winter weather, I hope you're safe and enjoying being snowed in and getting some sewing done.

Shaping a Neckline with Horsehair Braid

Horsehair braid is not just for hems! You can also use it in a neckline to add shape and structure. This works especially well in strapless or strappy dresses, where the bodice is supported by boning. Sometimes interfacing the neckline isn't quite stiff enough to stand up to the structure of the bodice, especially when you want a lot of shape and stiffness around the neckline.

This red halter dress is a great example. As you can see above, it's boned around the bodice, but not over the bust. The horsehair braid keeps the neckline from collapsing above the bustline. It also keeps the neckline nice and crisp. I've seen it used in dresses like this pink chiffon one, where you need extra structure to support the ruching of the lightweight fabric.

To apply the horsehair braid, you'll want to stitch it to the lining neckline so that it's positioned just below the seamline. (Do this step after all lining seams are constructed and boning is sewn in.) Because my seam allowance is 5/8", I stitched my horsehair just a hair below that. 

The braid can go all around the upper edge of the bodice, or stop at the side seams, which ever you prefer. If you have it go around to the zipper opening, make sure that you cut it just short of the opening so it doesn't get caught in any seam allowances. 

Pull up the string in the horsehair braid so that it shapes to the curve of the bodice. It's a nice touch to stitch some scrap fabric around the short ends of the braid so the cut edges don't poke through the dress. 

Stitch the bodice to the bodice lining, right sides together. Understitch the lining, catching the horsehair braid and the seam allowances in your understitching. Turn the lining to the right side and press, and there you have it! A nicely shaped neckline.

P.S. Happy Halloween!

My New Butterick Patterns for Spring 2014!

Exciting day! I have two new pattern designs that just released. The first is B6019, and it's a dress I've been dreaming of for a long time. Ever since I did the Bombshell Dress class on Craftsy, I've wanted a dress pattern that was more authentic to the designs of Alfred Shaheen. Here are a couple of his designs from the '50s, to give you an idea.

I love the details: the bias band across the bodice, boned bodice, structured bra cups, removable halter strap, sarong skirt, and elastic shirring. So I designed a pattern to these exact specifications. Here's the line drawing.

As you can see, there's a full-skirted version in addition to the sarong version.

The bra cups have batting for structure.

There's shirring in the back panels, and a lapped center back zipper.

The second pattern is very different: lingerie!

B6031 was inspired by vintage lingerie, but is made in modern stretch fabrics. As much as I love the look of vintage slips, I find the nylon fabric they're made of to be sticky and uncomfortable.

So I designed something similar in matte jersey. This is an entire lingerie set with slip, camisole in 2 lengths, and panties.

All the designs are finished with stretch lace and pretty bows.

The undies are my modern interpretation of vintage style panties. They have full butt coverage and low-cut legs but the waist is shaped more like a boyshort. You can make them higher waisted for an authentic '50s look!

I hope you enjoy the new patterns! I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

Finished! Butterick 5882, the Shelf Bust Dress

Whew! That was a whirlwind. I made this dress over the course of a week, flew out to Dallas to wear it to a wedding, and flew back home the next day.

To catch you up, this pattern is part of my line of retro designs for Butterick Patterns, "Patterns by Gertie." (And they are all currently on sale for $1.88!) This particular design is number B5882 and was inspired by a 50s style called the "shelf bust."

Here's how my process works: I make the pattern and sample garment (all in a size 10), send it in to Butterick for grading and photographing and all that stuff. When the pattern is officially released, then I get a copy and can make it for myself in my own size (which is a 14, for reference).

Here's the model-y version.

And the Gertie version.

I added pockets!

And just happened to have the perfect shoes in my closet, never worn.

They're by Poetic Licence (the style is called "Faithfully"), and they are black on the outside and white on the inside of foot! Perfect for my black and white dress.

It was unseasonably cold in Dallas (I spent the outdoor reception huddled in Jeff's jacket) and crazy windy. Hair at the beginning of the day:

Hair one hour later:

Yikes!

Anyway, back to the dress, with a few construction details.

I added 3" wide horsehair braid to the hem. I bought this horsehair from Steinlauf and Stoller by the 36 yard roll. That's how much I love it. It's the best quality horsehair I've come across, very firm with a strong cord for pulling to shape the braid. (If you're curious how to use horsehair braid, here's tutorial to help you! I also have a segment from It's Sew Easy if you're more of a video person.)

The unmentionables! I added bra cups to the bodice. I just tacked them in by hand.

The waist stay is a wide petersham ribbon from a millinery supply store. The bodice is steel-boned all the way around. I made the boning channels by cutting two bodice linings, sewing them together wrong sides together, and then stitching lines to make pockets for the boning. (I detailed this method on my yellow dress from 2010, the days of yore. Thankfully I've figured out a better way to cut steel boning since then, which I will share one of these days.)

I borrowed a pocket pattern from a skirt pattern I own and sewed them into the side seams.

The fashion fabric is a silk and cotton brocade with flocked velvet polka dots from New York Elegant Fabrics. AMAZING. The contrast is a silk satin shantung from Paron Fabrics. I lined the whole thing in a lightweight cotton-poly blend from Metro Textiles, and finished the hem on the lining in black contrast narrow hemming on my serger.

Lapped zipper.

Okay, about the straps. I wrote a post about how I originally intended them to be worn, which is with the band flipped down under the bust and then twisting at the upper edge of the bodice.

And after all that, I ended up sewing mine differently. I kept my band flipped down all the way around the bust, no twist. I just liked how it looked on me when I tried it on.

I tacked the band down just where it turns into the strap, to keep it in place.

Whew! I think that's it! Overall, I'm really happy with the dress. It's a special kind of thrill being able to make my own pattern design. Here's a couple shot to end with.