Holiday Insta-Outfit!

Hey, you know what's fun? Sewing. Especially when you can knock out a couple pieces, without needing a pattern, in just a couple short sewing sessions!

This little ensemble is made up of a gathered circle skirt in Black and Grey Jacquard from my fall collection, paired with this Simple Knit Top project in black matte jersey.

Let's talk about the skirt, shall we? I've been wanting to make a gathered circle skirt for a while. This is a circle skirt made to a waist circumference waaaaay bigger than your own, and then you gather the excess into a waistband. For those times when you just need MORE circle skirt.

I multiplied my waist circumference by 2.5 to get the pattern circumference (and then divided by two and made one pattern for both the front and the back).

The waistband is grosgrain ribbon, with long ties at the side zipper so you can make a bow.

To make the waistband, you need a lot of ribbon. I think I used about 6.5 yards. Half is used for the outer layer, and the other half is stitched to the inside to hide the seam allowances, so the two ribbons sandwich the skirt waistline. Leave long tails past the side zipper, and gather the skirt and pin it to the ribbon. The gathered circumference should now match your waist circumference.

I edge stitched the grosgrain to the skirt. 

Trimmed the seam allowance with my scissors on an angle (to get less of a blunt, bulky cut).

And then pinned and stitched the second ribbon to the inside, edge stitching all the way around.

I finished the bottom hem with the rolled hem feature on my serger. This looks especially nice if you use Wooly Nylon thread in the loopers to get a satin-y finish. That's all there is to it!

I'm wearing a chiffon petticoat for a little extra fullness.

I made one little design change to the Simple Knit Top project. I sewed gathers at the shoulders for a pretty drapey look.

Here's to holiday sewing!

Finished! Butterick 6167 in Flocked Faille

I'm also calling this the "Meta Dress" because it has little dresses flocked on it! Dresses on dresses, readers. YES. This is my pattern design B6167 done up in my new flocked faille, just out at Joann.

I did make a couple changes to the pattern. First, I used a contrast fabric for the bust inset and the straps. It's a black tulle flocked with tiny dots all over it, a perfect match for the main fabric. Here's a picture of the texture.

I layered the tulle over black Kona cotton for opacity. When you use a sheer for the gathered inset, you will probably want to cut two of the bust stay: one for the lining, and one to underline the gathered inset with (this way you don't see the inside of the stay through the sheer fabric). Here are my two bust pieces during assembly. The gathered tulle is basted to the second bust stay, and the second bust stay is for the lining (note that it also has a strip of white fusible interfacing to stabilize the neckline).

I also changed the skirt design. The original design was made up in my rose sateen border print, so the skirt was a gathered rectangle.

The faille, however, doesn't gather very nicely because of its stiffness. So I used a three-quarter circle skirt pattern I have instead. I just measured the pattern pieces before cutting to make sure everything would fit together and match at the side seams.

I also added a little glitter velvet ribbon underneath the bust, with a bow at center front. I liked the idea of having a little "border" between the bust inset and the midriff.

I also wore a black satin belt with it for extra vintage flair. Also, a chiffon petticoat!

As for matching the print along the seams: I had great intentions of doing it on all the seams, until I realized that I would have to drastically shift the grainlines on the side bodice pieces to make that work. So I made do with matching the dresses along the center back seam, as you can see in the photo above.

Construction-wise, I made a small amount of changes. This pattern design was originally conceived as a casual sundress, so the pattern only calls for boning at the center back and the side seams. As this is a more formal look, I decided to add more structure. (Also, I love using steel boning so much that I get a little carried away!).

I added extra channels on the princess seams below the bust and diagonally on either side of the bust. Here's a picture of the inside of the bodice lining. 

I used black sew in interfacing for the outer bodice. You can press the faille lightly, but it's better to now use too much steam or pressure on flocking. So sew-in interfacing is best. You can baste it to your fabric by hand or machine (but only if the machine doesn't cause puckering).

I made my waist stay in lavender petersham.

As for the fit. I used my bodice lining as my muslin, and it worked out just fine. I made a size 12, which had to be taken in just a little at the side seams. I also had to raise the waist seam 1/4". I made the A/B cup size, which fit very well. I'm so glad this pattern also has C and D cup sizes, as the bust fit is so important.

I'm so loving this dress. It feels like it was made for dancing. And it's been wonderful having time to sew things in my patterns and fabrics. I hope you're enjoying the results!

Finished Rose Applique Dress

It's done! The Joan Holloway-inspired dress I blogged about last week is now complete, thanks to an old tablecloth and a little crafty thinking. (A big thanks to those who gave me applique tips in the comments; I took note for next time!) It seems pretty appropriate to post on Valentine's Day, doesn't it?

The pattern is this one that I draped last year, and am still perfecting the fit on. (I wear my green polka dot version all the time, and get so many nice compliments on it.) And yes, it's more of the pinky-red merino I made that little suit out of. And I still have some left! I must have bought out the entire stock of that stuff. What can I say? It's my color.

It has a centered, lapped zipper, just like Joan's would have. (I also have a classy Joan-esque chignon, thanks to the multi-talented Fleur!)

It's lined in bright red silk Habutai, and the midriff section is interfaced to keep it smooth. 

An applique close-up:

It wouldn't be an exaggeration to say I've gotten a little applique-happy. There's a vintage lobster tablecloth coming my way in the mail. (Lobsters!) And then all the products I have to look into: stabilizers, interfacings, threads . . .  Watch out, world!