The Slim Skirt: A Modern Re-do!

I decided to tackle the slim skirt again--this time using all modern techniques and equipment.

I made lots of changes from the lavender version I made, in which I strictly followed all of the instructions in Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing (VoNBBS).

The first thing I did was to make a couple tiny pattern alterations. I took in an inch at the waist, and added more taper to the bottom of the skirt. I also shortened it a bit more--I wanted this version to hit just a smidge above the knee. I think these changes give the skirt a more contemporary look, much like these current offerings at Anthropologie.com.

But the real changes were in the construction. In stark contrast to the lavender version I made, for this version I purposely did as much by machine as I could. In fact, the only things I did by hand were to attach the waistband to the skirt on the inside and to tack the vent down.

Some other changes I made construction-wise were:

1. I used interfacing in the waistband. I thought it odd that VoNBSS did not suggest this.
2. I serged the raw edges rather than hand overcasting.
3. I used a machine blind hem rather than using seam binding and hand stitching.
4. I did not even attempt a handworked buttonhole this time, I went straight for my machine.
5. I substituted the lapped zipper with an invisible zipper.

But the biggest change I noticed was in my attitude. With the VoNBBS version, I was committed to a very slow, detail-oriented process. VoNBSS told me the skirt should take 9 hours to make, and I definitely took that, if not longer. There were frustrations along the way, but for the most part, I was relaxed and enjoyed the ride.

With this modern version, I somehow got it into my head that I had to go as fast as possible so that I could see how much time my modern methods saved. Well, this was a disaster. Because I was rushing so much, I accidentally sewed the skirt inside out! I even applied the zipper to the outside! Yes, that's right. I sewed the zipper to the outside of the skirt.

Had I not had so many mishaps, this version would have taken under two hours, from cutting to finishing. But is that really the point? To whip something up as quickly as humanly possible? I love a fun, quick project as much as the next lady, but it's good to remember the virtues of slow sewing.

The fabric I used is a fantastic rayon-cotton blend from Gorgeous Fabrics. It's a mix of colors--navy, black, and white--giving it a tweed look. I love the fabric so much that I've now made a pair of pants, shorts and a skirt from this fabric! A dress is probably in the works too. I bought six yards of it! It unfortunately seems to be sold out now, so I'm glad I did.

The Making of the Slim Skirt

Well, it's done. My second VoNBSS project!

All in all, I'm pretty happy with this skirt, though I'm not sure it's the most flattering thing ever. I think I made it a size too big, so I feel like it really overemphasizes my lower body. Because of the construction (no side seams), there really isn't a way to take it in. Oh well. A belt helps to cinch it in, though not like the model of the 22" waist in VoNBSS!

I shortened the pattern by 6-1/2 inches, to take it from tea length to knee length. I tucked the length out in the middle to keep the shape at the bottom of the skirt.

I made it up in a lightweight lavender wool and rayon blend that was $12 a yard at Mood. It only took a yard, so this is a pretty economical project! Notice I'm wearing it with my "feminine, portrait neckline blouse!" And, of course, I'm wearing it with my vintage-inspired half slip. (See the tutorial here!) I'm well on my way to a fabulous VoNBSS wardrobe.

I really went all out with this one. I once again used tailor's tacks and a faced, lapped zipper. And here are the new skills I attempted (notice I did not say "mastered"):

1. Hand overcasting. There is only one seam on the body of the skirt, so I thought, "Heck, why not give one of them there hand overcast seams a go?" Verdict: Thumbs down. I do not understand this technique. I mean, I don't understand how it is possibly supposed to stop edges from raveling. I love to serge my edges, which obviously wouldn't have been an option in 1952. But why not use a Hong Kong binding? Or a turned-and-stitched edge? Anything other than this silly hand overcasting. But, to be fair, I've read in Clare Schaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide that this is the couture way to do it. I must be missing something.

2. A handworked buttonhole. I was really excited to try this. I spent yesterday afternoon tracking down the prescribed thread (a heavy weight silk) in the Garment District. Verdict: disaster. Read the full saga here. I ended up making the buttonhole by machine.

3. Seam binding on the hem. VoNBSS indicated that I should sew seam binding flat to the raw edge, and then sew through the seam binding to hem the skirt. Verdict: Nice! I'm pretty proud of my hem on this project, actually. I was very careful to pick up only the tiniest bit of fabric thread when hemming by hand, so it's pretty undetectable from the right side. The seam binding looks nice and clean on the inside too.

Plus, it comes in this retro-fabulous packaging.


Will definitely be using this technique again.

4. Silk thread for handstitching. Verdict: I am SO into silk thread for handstitching! It's amazing. I had no idea! I love the way it pulls so smoothly through the fabric like . . .silk. I'm obsessed, people.

5. Hand basting. I actually did some. Verdict: great for areas where you need a lot of control, like on these pleats:


Two VoNBSS projects down, twelve to go!

The Sad, Sad Saga of the Most Pathetic Handworked Buttonhole Ever

This is a "buttonhole," dear readers. Oh, you couldn't tell? You thought perhaps it was an thread-worked interpretation of a knife wound? An art therapy project by a very disturbed individual? No, it is my first attempt at a handworked buttonhole, led by the trusty guidance of VoNBSS. And I am putting my shame out there for the entire internets to see.

Here's what VoNBSS told me, not mentioning the horror that was to come:

"The next step is handwork, so why not get the ball game or symphony, or your favorite soap opera on the radio? This time, we're going to make a handworked buttonhole from buttonhole twist."

Oh, thank you VoNBSS, don't mind if I do! Let me just grab a Diet Coke and turn on Judge Judy. And that was how it all started.

Here's what was supposed to happen:

Oh, how that page mocks me. And all the while, not two yards away, sits my lovely sewing machine with its glowing LCD screen and its glorious one-step buttonhole stitch.

But don't worry, readers. I will persevere. For a while anyway. And then I will give up and use my one-step buttonholer. Don't judge me.

'A Slim Skirt--Full of Sewing Pointers'

VoNBSS is not kidding, ladies: they've packed this slim skirt FULL of sewing pointers! (And they're punny too!)

I'm still making the "slim, supple skirt" and I'm being really dutiful this time about following all of the VoNBSS (Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing) instructions. This not only means tailor's tacks and a basted fitting, but things like seam binding on the hem and vent, hand overcasting, a hand-worked buttonhole, and much more.

I did make one alteration on the pattern, and that was to shorten it. It's tea length, and I just cannot abide tea length. I had to take a good six inches off. It's a cute style though, with pleats in the front and darts in the back. The pattern is only two pieces-the skirt and the belt! There's only one seam in the skirt (up the back), hence my new found willingness to hand overcast the seam allowances.

The tailor's tacks were intense. I had to use five different colors of thread for the different markings. To amuse myself, I used thread in ice cream colors. You can see chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry here. (Pistachio is down on the hem. There's a tangerine sorbet somewhere too.)

I have to run to the Garment District today for some supplies: seam binding, silk thread, buttonhole twist, and a zipper. Speaking of which, have any of you actually seen buttonhole twist in a store? Or is this an item that would have been more easily found in 1952?

Update: Thanks to the commenter who left the link to buttonhole twist! That looks like a good option, though VoNBSS refers to buttonhole twist as a heavy silk thread. I managed to find some heavy weight silk Gutermann thread today, but I'm actually intrigued by this option as well. I'm planning on ordering some for the next project!