Friday, July 15, 2016

Blue Sketch Roses Dress

New finished dress! I'm so happy to finally showcase this sateen from my spring collection. This is the Sketch Rose in blue, a 100% cotton sateen, available at Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores.

This is one of the dresses my mom helped me cut out a few months ago, and I finally got around to sewing it up. I used patterns from my latest book, Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book. The bodice is the Basic Jewel Neck Bodice (with a small shoulder modification that I'll show below), paired with the three-quarter circle skirt.
 
I'm surprisingly crazy about this dress, given how simple it is. I want to make it in lots more colors and prints!

I've been trying to up my accessories game, and I paired it with big hoop earrings, white mules, and this amazingly cute belt I found for a steal on Amazon of all places. (Though I like the dress both with and without the belt.)


As you can see on the mannequin, the shoulders have a slight racer back look to them. They're cut inward for a narrower shoulder.


Here's a little tutorial on how to make this pattern change.

I did this by making marks at 1-3/4" in from the shoulder (where the sleeve would connect), and then 5/8" under the armhole.


Then I connected those marks with a curved ruler.



Cut away the excess.


Repeat on the back!


I finished the armholes and neck hole with an all-in-one facing.


You can either adjust the included facing pieces or make entirely new ones to follow the new armholes.

I also like to take off a scant 1/8" around the neckline and armholes, which helps the facing roll inside the garment better. See the new orange lines around the neck and armholes in the photo below!


Trace that section off (between the orange lines) and those are your new facing pieces.


Let me know if you have any questions about that pattern adjustment!

I always get asked about my foundation garments, so I took I few pictures this time! (Don't worry, nothing too racy). I wore my favorite longline bra, but it needed a little tweak in the back to accomodate the cut-away shoulders. These adjustable straps are perfect for this purpose.

The longline bra requires high waisted panties for a smooth line, and then a crinoline (this one is by Hell Bunny) gives the skirt lots of fluff. 
I don't always go full '50s in the foundation garment department, but it definitely looks good for pictures and it's nice to have the option.

The skirt has a three-step narrow hem (instructions in the book)!

And a back lapped zipper. I didn't even think about pattern matching, though I really should have. Luckily there are no egregiously badly placed flowers!
 I love this dress so much, I'm going to cut it out in another fabric this weekend!

30 comments:

  1. Pattern matched or not, I just love the whole look. I am getting into the whole retro look thanks to you. So glad I found you. You make everything look so simple, effortless and classy.

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  3. Thank you for posting on this dress and your underpinnings, very much appreciated! Not sure if it's the fabulous dress or the fabulous wearer or both but I'm going to attempt this look for myself and only hope to look half as good as you!

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  4. This dress is stunning, the fabric is gorgeous and a perfect pairing. It's nice to see what's under too especially as I'm thinking of buying/making a petticoat soon.

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  5. I have to say the fabric is a perfect match for this dress! I'm also loving that belt

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  6. Lovely,elegant, beautiful and very girlyyyy!

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  7. Such a pretty way to use that fabric. I do have a question though. I made a dress using that bodice and got some gaping in the neckline. How do I fix that in my pattern? I'd like to try the strap adjustment but don't want to make my neckline worse.

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  8. Absolutely amazing dress! Beautiful pattern. You look incredible! The fabric is gorgeus. I like it!
    Greetings from Poland!

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  9. You (and the dress) look amazing! The best part is, you showed what you needed to do to make it look so amazing, by adding the right undergarments. Bravo! Work well done!

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  10. Beautiful! Love the dress, the fabric and you!

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  11. This dress is sweet! It's a beautiful fabric and although not pattern matched, it looks gorgeous on you! What cute accessories too! Thank you for posting this and the foundation garments. I wouldn't have thought of pairing the dress with a blue petticoat. Cool look! Thanks, Kathy G. from Arizona

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  12. Great job! I love this fabric. Hopefully I'll be able to get my hands on it. And it pairs perfectly with this dress. Haven't seen many posts from you lately so glad to see you're back!

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  13. You and your dress both look really fab!

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  14. I only bought 2' so I will end up making a skirt. Love the fabric.

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  15. I'm just started to learn to sew (on my own) and the first thing I made is your napkins. You really do an excellent job explaining everything. Thank you so much!!

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  16. Love it! Thanks for the shoulder adjustment info! Am working on a shirt dress muslin to which I wanted to do the same!

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  17. Wow, what an amazing dress! Love it and it looks fabulous on you.

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  18. Just wow! You're such a stunner and what a beautiful dress!

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  19. Ein Kleid zum verlieben.
    Einfach wunderschön

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  20. Gorgeous! You and the dress!

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  21. The pattern and fabric were meant for each other, and your white accessories set it off. You did a great job of placing the pattern on the fabric, because the print is not in any unflattering position on you. I also think having the right undergarments are important for the fit and looks of the dress.

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  22. Wow, you look incredible! The fabric is so beautiful. I'd like to use it to make the PJ's that LLadybird just posted about... except I want to wear them as regular clothes, haha! And, the narrow hem is picture perfect.

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  23. This is a beautiful dress. I love it.

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  24. Another winner Gertie! :-) And thanks for sharing the undergarments too - I often wonder how full a petticoat is under a particular dress. I've been thinking about detachable collars. This dress would lend itself to adding one to change it up a bit. I wonder though, how does one attach the collar to the dress so that the collar doesn't shift around (like necklaces do)? Do you know? Thanks again for another super post!

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  25. Wow this dress is to die for!! I absolutely love the colour of the dress with the roses and the style of it is gorgeous. I love how you've shown your undergarments! It's great as you see dresses on people, but never know how they make it all poofy. I love how real you are showing us! I love all the accessories you've added and your hair looks beautiful, another great outfit! XxxX

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  26. Very creative! I have two loves quilting ( wall art primarily _ outdoor scenes) and dressmaking. I like the idea of learning more about pattern adjustment, which it seems,you are a master. Thanks for the inspiration. Lovely, retro look!

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  27. Gertie, it's been a while since I checked in at your blog. Wow, you look like you've been replaced with the model version of yourself! And great explanation on the racerback change.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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