Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Knit Wrap Top Sew-Along #3: Cutting and Marking

B6285 wrap top with the ties knotted in the back
Ready? Okay! Time to cut and mark our B6285 wrap tops.

Now, the most important thing I want you to know is this: This top is self-lined. That means it looks the same on the inside as the outside (anyone want to try a reversible one?!). This also means that you need to cut doubles of everything--it's like making two tops. 

Here is what I suggest. We're going to cut and mark one set of pattern pieces, and then repeat this process for the lining set. If you're in a rush, you can try making two double layers of fabric and cutting both sets at once, but it gets tricky and less accurate when you're cutting four layers of jersey.

You only have two pattern pieces.

Piece #1 is the top front and back. There's no shoulder seam, so it's all one piece. Piece #2 is the tie.

They get cut out on a double layer of fabric, with the selvages matching at the top and the fold at the bottom.

So lay out your fabric on your table with the right sides together, and place the pieces like this. Make sure the fabric is as smooth as possible, and that it doesn't twist as you're laying it out.

See how the selvages are on top of each other at the upper right corner? And then the fold is at the bottom.

After the pieces are pinned in place, cut! This is a great time to use serrated cutting shears (they grab the jersey so it doesn't slip around) or a rotary cutter.

Once you've cut around the two pieces, start by clipping into any notches. It's much easier to just make one little snip into the point of the notch rather than try to cut out the triangle shape of the notch.

Next, transfer any circles, like the ones on the end of the ties. I like to do this with a disappearing ink pen. First, place pins into the center of the circle.

Then, use your marking pen to make a circle on both wrong sides at the pin point.

Other important circles to mark are located at the Center Back on piece #1 (above the triple notch):

And the side seam of piece #1, where there are two circles.

Next, mark your dart on piece #1. It can be difficult to use a tracing wheel on knits, so here's how I do it. First, clip into the legs of the dart.

Then, mark the little circle at the top of the dart, using the pin method as above.

When you take off the tissue, you can use a ruler and your marking pen to connect the clips to the circle.

Alternatively, if you're feeling gutsy, you can just use the clips to fold together the dart and then stitch in a (hopefully) straight line to your circle point when you sew the dart.

Okay, now all your circles and darts are marked, and you have made little clips into all the triangular notches. Remove the pattern tissue from your cut pieces, and then repeat the whole process so that you have two sets of everything!

Now you have two pairs of pattern piece #1 and two pairs of pattern piece #2.

Next time, we'll start sewing! In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions.

Update: in response to the FBA issue! Here's a quickie idea. Cut along the green lines indicated in the photo below:

Slash and spread to get the required extra width and length. You will need to make a side bust dart to account for the extra length on the side seam, so that it matches the back side seam.

Keep in mind that even if you're busty, you may not need an FBA since this is a knit and can also be worn below the breasts, as in the photo at the top of this post.


  1. I'm so excited to be doing this sew along, I do I have one quick question though. How does one modify a pattern like this for narrow shoulders? Or will this self correct because it's a knit and a wrap? I've made about four muslins of the dress in your second book that has the same one piece top, and I still haven't hit on the sweet spot.

    1. Hi Colleen! My instinct is that you wouldn't have to modify it since it's a knit and it doesn't matter where your shoulders are in relation to the pattern. I can't pretend to know for certain though! Why don't you cut one set of bodice pieces and put them together as a quickie "muslin" and check just to be sure you're happy with the fit. I will say that the fit on this is fluid, it's okay if it gathers and drapes around the shoulders and arms.

  2. Do you have any recommendations on amln FBA? I know knits are forgiving for the busty, but I'm a 36K so even knits don't quite cover the subject the way they should.

    1. Hi lea, I just updated the post with one idea. Let me know if this works for you!

  3. I think I'll try making a double sided wrap, what would you suggest for the ties though? They're not going to do double sided very well. I'm thinking I'll have to do one print and one solid to make it work OK?

    1. I wish I knew why all my comments were posting twice...
      Sorry 🙏

  4. This comment has been removed by the author.

  5. What a great top...I am tall, and typically have to add length to patterns...do you recommend just adding the length at the waist by extending the pattern the necessary amount or would it be better to lengthen the pattern in another place?

    1. I was thinking about the same thing. I'm tall too! I've never adjusted a pattern though.

  6. Hi Gertie! I just purchased a copy of this pattern and I'm so excited to start on the sew along. My arms are on the more muscular side and I was was wondering if you knew how I could modify the sleeves on this pattern to accommodate them. I always have to add a couple of inches to pattern sleeves. Thanks!

  7. Echoing Cassie and Diana's comments about length. I made the top but is just about covers my bust. Where would you suggest to add length? Right above and below the sleeve? It's a tricky one...


Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

© Gertie's Blog For Better Sewing. Powered by Cake