Friday, December 4, 2015

Knit Wrap Sew-Along #2: Tie Length and Two/Four-Way Stretch

I made the above outfit from Butterick 6285 and haven't had a chance to model it for pictures yet! But I wanted to show it to you before we cut out our wrap tops for the sew-along. It happens that there's a discrepancy in the length of the wrap ties on the pattern and the sample, shown in red below:


The grey version was made from the pattern, as packaged. This version has you cut two ties the exact same length. They're long enough to tie into a simple knot but not quite long enough for a bow. 


The red version was made from my original personal pattern, in which I did a fussy thing where one tie is longer than the other.  Sometimes patterns go through changes in the process and I imagine this one was made to avoid an over-complication of the pattern pieces to gain a relatively minor design feature! After all, the ties appear to be different lengths anyway once you tie them to one side, though perhaps not as exaggerated as in the picture below. 



I'm not trying to confuse you, I promise. Here's the take-away: If you want to be able to tie the ties into a bow with long tails, you'll need to make a pattern change. Here's what I would suggest for a fuss-free alteration: Simply extend the tie pattern piece (it's labeled #2 on the tissue) by 10". Your ties will be long enough to tie into a bow this way. 

Here's a little sketch:



Okay, now let's talk about a hot-button issue: two- vs. four-way stretch! Two-way jerseys stretch across the fabric widthwise but not lengthwise. Four-way jerseys stretch in both directions. Which should you use for this top? The great news is that you can use either! The red roses jersey shown is a four-way stretch, with slightly more widthwise than lengthwise stretch. The grey jersey at the top of this post is a two way stretch, with the stretchiness going across the body.

You can use either, but your choice will effect the feel of your top. The four-way stretch has a softer, less stable feel to it. Also, the ties stretch, meaning that they wrap further around the body and result in a longer, floppier bow.

The grey top, made in two-way stretch feels more firm and stable, and the ties do not stretch, giving them a shorter look and firmer feel.

Please let me know if you have any questions! Next we'll be cutting out our pattern.

21 comments:

  1. I like the gray outfit, as gray is one of my favorite colors for clothing, because it's a great neutral. I often modify patterns myself.

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    1. I almost never wear grey, but I'm thinking I should start. It's so versatile!

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  2. Super cute. I'm going to purchase this pattern. :)

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  3. cute cute cute but not for me right now. Maybe next year!

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  4. I ordered the pattern, bought the fabric and asked my mom for my sewing machine back! I haven't sewn in a long time so I hope this isn't over my head!

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    1. A sew-along is a great way to jump back in!

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  5. Gertie, I love your blog! I discovered you years ago and just haven't checked in for a while. I love to sew too and what you do just makes me so happy! I am so impressed at all you've done. And your latest hair I think is my favorite look on you yet. Just had to tell you how beautiful you are and how checking your blog just made my day.

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    1. What a nice comment, thank you so much!

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  6. Fabric stretches either one way (across) or two ways (across and up-and-down). There's no such thing as four-way stretch unless you want to start talking diagonals.

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    1. We have a case of 2 peoples separated by a common language. It is counted as 4 way stretch as it is stretching up, down, left and right.

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    2. This is so funny--as I was writing the post I wondered if I should get into the semantics of this but decided to try to keep it simple. Some people call it one- or two-way stretch and others call it two- or four-way stretch. But it's the same thing. I didn't make it up, I swear!

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    3. I was told that in previous years it was one way and two way stretch, but the modern terms are two way and four way....

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  7. Gertie, you look great! The longer tie really creates a great shape against the skirt. Bravo!

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  8. I can't wait to cut this top out, I have one more project on my table to finish and then I'm ready to go. Thanks for the FYI on the tie length.

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  9. Hi Gertie have a lovely fabric I,d like to use for this but it has a one way pattern. Do you think it would affect the finish too much if I put in a shoulder/arm seam?

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    1. Interesting question! My only concern would be getting the seam in the correct placement so it forms a straight/pleasing line down the arm. I would suggest making up the lining first with no shoulder seam, then trying on the lining and marking the desired placement of the seam with pins, and then transferring that line to the pattern so you can cut the outer layer. That will save you the steps of making a muslin.

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  10. Which tie is longer? The right or the left???

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    1. The left, though it doesn't really matter since this top is the same on the inside as the outside! If you want to get the exact same look as the red sample, use the included pattern piece for the right tie, and make the 10" longer pattern for the left tie. Cut two of each pattern piece.

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  11. It's a really good design, Gerthie! A must in any wardrobe!

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  12. Thanks for pointing this out. I had a conversation with Sandra Betzina last month, and she had a lot to say on the "editorial" changes the pattern company makes to her patterns. One thing I notice on your pattern is where your ties on the gray top are on your left front, the line drawing shows them on the right. does this make any difference in the length of the ends? I appreciate the photo of your red print top with the ties looped to show the length difference.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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