A Black Lacy Dress for Summer

I love black dresses for summer, especially with a full skirt. I've been working on developing a princess seam bodice pattern, and I decided to test it out with some beautiful black stretch sateen from B&J Fabrics. It's a basic sleeveless scoop-neck bodice with full circle skirt, and then a straight-grain ruffle sewn all around the hem.

Let's discuss the neckline. I ended up trimming it with some gorgeous black Venice lace.

This, however, was not originally the plan. I was working with my student Rachel, who has been a wonderful constant in my life for several years now. I mentioned I was making a basic black dress and was thinking about trimming it with some cool trim, like rick rack or mini pompom trim. This launched Rachel into an idea about an Italian countryside/Dolce & Gabbana inspired neckline with lace that gives a sort of lingerie-inspired vibe. We discussed. (I think the dialogue included something like, "It's like you're Sophia Loren: 'Oops, my dress is too small!'" Have I mentioned that Rachel is hilarious?) I was instantly on board. 

I found the lace at M&J Trimmings. It's a 2 inch-wide Venice lace with tiny roses. Perfect. It would have been ideal to sandwich the lace trim between the bodice and the bodice lining--but that was difficult to maneuver. Instead, I fully lined the bodice with the outer dress fabric and then cut the lace into small pieces and pinned it behind the neckline. Then I secured the lace to the lining with very tiny hand stitches. Here it is from the inside.

I ended up adding a little bit of narrow clear elastic into the neckline seam (between the two layers of the bodice) to keep it hugged close to the body, which resulted in a slightly gathered look to the neckline. I'm trying to decide it if bothers me or not. 

The skirt is not lined, since the fabric is medium weight and opaque.

Back lapped zipper. Please excuse the wrinkles. I'd been sitting for a bit. 

The ruffle on the bottom is a strip of fabric that had to be extremely long. I made it 2.5 times the circumference of the skirt, which is a full circle. Daunted by the hemming, I tried out the narrow hemmer foot on the eXcellence 760 that Elna is lending me. 

It was so easy. Luckily, it was a straight grain hem. Narrow hemmers tend to be much more difficult on curved areas. 

The best part? Bike pictures! My friend Shari took these pictures on my new Bobbin bicycle (dude, it's called a Bobbin!) which I think completes the Italian summer look. Watch out, Sophia Loren. (Just kidding. There is just no competing with Sophia Loren, especially when it comes to plunging necklines.)

P.S. Biking in 4-inch heels? Do not try this at home, readers. Believe me.

Gertie's Sewing Show, Episode Three!

Episode Three is here! In this new installment, I look into a '50s dress, complete with boned inner corselet, waist stay, built-in crinoline, and horsehair braid. This is a beautiful example of workmanship (workwomanship?).

Hope you enjoy the episode, sewing nerds! As always, special thanks to my sponsor Elna. And endless gratitute to my production peeps Fleur Hoare and Martin Kemp, and songwriter Mark Ellison.

Don't forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel here. More episodes to come soon!

New Butterick Designs for Fall!

I have two new Butterick patterns out--just released yesterday! The first is B6094. This is a dress with two skirt options and a surprise in the back.

Boom!

Party in the back.

Version A has a full circle skirt, and an organdy petticoat sewn to the lining. View B is a simple pencil skirt.

The front of the bodice is simple and classic: a boatneck and a midriff. The contrast facings form the fold-back detail in the back, accented by two decorative buttons.

I made the sample version in a very lightweight corduroy, in teal and navy. The buttons are self-covered.

Second, a jacket! B6105 is a cozy wrap jacket that's a great transitional piece.

It has a shawl collar, peplum, pleated sleeve caps for a '40s silhouette, and a bow tie.

It looks great paired with a full skirt. Very Dior, 1947! Just as easy to wear with trousers, a dress, or a slim skirt.

There's a second version that is a coat-length. I envision it being made as a coat dress as well.

The sample is made in a cozy boiled wool with a taffeta lining. This would also be great in a stable ponte knit, or other snuggly wool. Crepe, charmeuse, or even cotton work for the lining. The lining fabric forms the contrast shawl collar and tie.

I hope you like the new designs!