Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Finished Butterick 6019 in Shocking Pink

Yay--a dress made just for fun! This is my pattern, Butterick 6019, which I've been dying to make for myself since it came out last month.


Here's the line drawing, so you can see the two different views.

This pattern was inspired by the designs of Alfred Shaheen, and I developed the pattern by draping it, which was both challenging and fun. 

One of the main features of the dress is the bias strip that crosses over the bust. In the pattern, the instructions tell you to tuck the right side of the bias band into the side seam, but I decided to experiment with seaming it and leaving it out. I think it looks pretty cool!
The fabric is an amazing silk shantung woven from hot pink and orange threads. It practically glows. I bought it in Salt Lake City maybe three years ago, and I'm thrilled to have finally sewn it.
 
There's a lot of understructure in this dress. Let's start with the skirt. I underlined in in silk organza, and used hem lace at the bottom. I decided to use horsehair braid on the skirt lining--I saw this recently when I was lucky enough to look inside a couture gown. It makes so much sense! You get the structure of the horsehair braid, but you can't see it on the outer fabric. (For instructions on sewing with horsehair braid, see this post and this video!)


Here's the dress inside out. The horsehair braid is hidden between the skirt layers. 


(Oh, BTW! The pattern doesn't call for a skirt lining, but I added one made of cotton broadcloth.) I also lengthened the skirt by about 3 inches, for a more tea-length vibe.

The bodice has all sorts of stuff. 


I added a grosgrain waist stay, underwires (see tutorial here), bra cups, and interfacing. There's fusible batting to support the outer cup, and steel boning throughout. 

There are two sections of elastic shirring in the back. I used 1/8" strips of elastic sandwiched into channels rather than elastic thread, which I'm going to put into a tutorial soon. 

I'm super happy with how the dress turned out. Which is good, because I put a lot of time into it! 


This is a really fun pattern to sew, and it makes me feel like a movie star. So, two thumbs up! (Wait, I can review my own pattern, right?)

Has anyone else made this one yet? I'm looking forward to doing another version with the slim skirt.

59 comments:

  1. Talk about light bulb moments with the horsehair braid + lining combo! Simply genius. I really like how wide your waist stay looks too, like the bottom of a long-line bra (as it should be really)... I absolutely adore how that shantung photographs. It has got to be amazing in person.

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  2. Nice make! I do so love the color!

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  3. That pink looks amazing with your hair!

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  4. That's stunning! I love your hair too; the colour is just perfect, and the vintage style just looks lovely.

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    1. Yeah, it's literally stunning. I was on the phone with my boyfriend when this popped up in my feed....I was dumbstruck and stopped talking in mid sentence....I heard "Babe, are you there?" in my ear and I was like..."HUH? Gertie...bright pink dress, bright purple hair....awesomeness..."

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  5. Beautiful! And I love how your hair complements the dress. Just stunning. Particularly like the bias strip left out. And I like the look the bodice front with the cups. My bust would need padding out so I love reading what you did.

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  6. First it looks gorgeous.

    But secondly... why elastic in channels. Does it just give the bodice more structure? It seems like it would be too constricting with so much elastic. You can ignore me here if you're going to cover all this in a future tutorial of course. heh

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    1. Some machines don't play well with elastic thread in the bobbin so I've been working on an alternative method for those folks. If elastic thread works in your machine, go with that!

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  7. That skirt sits so beautifully, with those big petally folds. Good cutting!

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  8. This is wonderfull I wish I were abit younger !

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  9. Gertie, you and your dress are stunning! You put a lot of talent into this dress and it shows!! Excellent!

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  10. It looks gorgeous! I just love the colour too!

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  11. So pretty, I love the bias strip. And it must be such a relief to be able to sew for fun again for a while!

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  12. Amazing dress! Amazing colour! I need to try the horsehair braid hem in my next skirt. I think it gives the dress/ skirt an elegant look.

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  13. LOVE the pink!!!!!!!!!!!!! Especially with the purple hair!

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  14. Your frock looks gorgeous, the colour must be amazing IRL. The horsehair braid method on the skirt lining is genius. And so very obvious once it is done. How could we have all missed this??!!! Thank you for sharing the tip.

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  15. I'm just imagining what this fabric looks like up close with the pink and orange threads and I'm sure it's even more fantastic than in the photos! Gorgeous dress, as always.

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  16. Ooh, I love this version! I have the pattern in my stash, but haven't had time to make it yet. Now I must seek out silk shantung and silk organza :)

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  17. I just got this pattern the other day. Your dress is amazing, mine won't be nearly as elegant. I also love the pink paired with your purple hair, looks great!

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  18. So fun! I love the color and material.

    igetmycraftyfrommymama.blogspot.com

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  19. Holy macaroni! This is beautiful. It looks as gorgeous on the inside as the outside.
    I am in awe. And I want this dress!
    ~Michelle

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  20. Un vestido maravilloso. KISSES.

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  21. I love the inside of it - so beautiful and well done. (I like the outside too, of course...!)

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  22. What a beautiful dress!! I love it... I haven't made it yet - but i'm thinking bridal-dress - with dots!!
    Sunshine
    Stine (Denmark)

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  23. Wow! Gorgeous! You are such a good seamstress.

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  24. Gosh, Gertie, but that dress is absolutely stunning - both inside and out.
    Congratulations not just on the make, but also the pattern itself.
    And your hair looks super cool too. I love the colour!

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  25. marilyn monroe-esqe is so cool

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  26. I love the look of this dress and all the extra details you added like the underwire, bra cups and horsehair braid…! WOW WOW! Also hot pink = yay! I'd really love to make this one and try to do some of the details you included.

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  27. Love this on you. Would love to have this as a link on the product page.

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  28. That dress is really stunning and you LOOK like a movie star wearing it. Thanks for all the info on it--I loved reading about all the structural touches you added--it really makes the dress amazing (and the fabric doesn't hurt, either).

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  29. I just had to say that you look incredibly stunning and gorgeous and beautiful in this awe inspiring creation.

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  30. You look absolutely beautiful in that dress and the color is perfectly amazing! I can't wait to see what the slim skirt version looks like! Well done, as usual :)

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  31. DAMN GIRL!!! You look amazing. Now you've got me scheming ways to justify making myself one haha

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  32. I have the pattern too but I haven't made it yet. Love the pink! great look girl!

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  33. This is why we sew, to make adress just for fun and feeling great wearing it. Gorgeous dress!

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  34. The dress is amazing! It's gets even more amazing when you show the inside of it. So many details that makes it perfect fit.

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  35. WOW, Gertie, you and the dress are absolutely stunning!

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  36. Thanks for including all the structural details, these are the things that make all the difference and that dress really sings.
    Carol

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  37. I am almost at a loss for words. The only one that comes to mind is
    Fantabulousness

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  38. For someone who publishes her own patterns, how did you do such an amateur job pressing that hem?! You're killing what could be a flawless look!

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  39. Thanks for one's marvelous posting! I certainly enjoyed
    reading it, you are a great author.I will make sure to
    bookmark your blog and will come back later in life.
    I want to encourage that you continue your great work,
    have a nice evening! Obat aborsi

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  40. Hey Bertie, I wonder if there's a way to raise the neckline. I l would love to make this dress but want it to be a little less "eye-catching"

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  41. You look gorgeous in that dress. I can tell that you are happy with it because of your beautiful smile.

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  42. You rock that bombshell look so well!! I love it x

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  43. Fabulous! Your dress suits your personality perfectly and the details are, as always, impeccable. WTG!

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  45. OK, after seeing you in this dress, I need to get that pattern. I love what you have done with the bodice design, and as a Shaheen junkie, this is so inspiring!

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  46. This dress is an exquisite example of gourmet sewing... Fit to perfection, with purposeful inner foundation, and a softly turned hem..... the hallmark of fine couture sewing.. The fabric choice is beautiful and the dress is an inspiration to push our skills, thank you Gertie.

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  47. Just gorgeous! I'm working on mine now, but I CANNOT get the center front of the bust to lay flat against my sternum. It's not you, it's me. I have this problem ALL the TIME. I don't think I'm using cups that are too small. Any other thoughts? Anyone?
    -Sandra

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    1. Hi Sandra, this is such a common fitting issue! It's usually that the cups are too small. Otherwise, it might be the unique shape of your bust--would you say that your breasts are close together or wide set? Not to get too personal, but I think that could be a factor here! Send me an email with pics if you want, and I can try to help more.

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  48. gorgeous work Gertie! I love the pink with you hair too! and all your dress making skills are so wonderful! the inside of that bodice is just a lovely as the outside!

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  49. I just made this dress! Love it! But what's with the pattern sizing? My measurements (44 35 47) mean im a 22 according to the pattern envelope, but I made the 18 and it is a perfect fit. That could really mess up a novice seamstress. If you want to see my completed dress I blogged about it at missdixieodare.blogspot.com.au/2014/12/a-christmas-dress.html

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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