Wednesday, February 5, 2014

My Butterick Lingerie Pattern: Choosing Fabric



I've received some comments from readers wondering why I chose to design Butterick 6031 for stretch fabrics only. Vintage slips were always made from woven fabrics, usually nylon. For some reason, I don't find woven slips comfortable, even if there's some lycra woven into the fabric. I'm not a vintage purist (as if the purple hair and tattoos didn't tell you that!), so I decided to look into other options.

My favorite slip of all time is one that I purchased years and years ago from Anthropologie. It was a slinky blush knit that glided over the body and kept my dresses looking smooth. I wore that thing to pieces. Unfortunately, I could never find another like it! It was similar to this beautiful stretch slip by indie brand Ti Mo.


I spent a lot of time researching what kind of fabric the Anthro slip was made from and looking for something similar. The best thing I found was this fabric called Micro Stretch Jersey from Berenstein Textiles. 


Here's what this fabric looks like when it drapes: slinky!


Online, you can find it at Emma One Sock under the name Venezia Stretch Lining. She has a selection of neutral colors. I highly recommend this site; I've been thrilled with every fabric I've ordered from them! (Note: the Emma One Sock listing says this fabric is a poly/lycra blend, instead of nylon/tencel. I've found conflicting info on the fabric content, and I'm not sure which is the most current.)

I also know that B&J Fabrics in New York carries this fabric in many colors. You can call them at 212-354-8150 to order.

If you prefer all natural fibers, silk jersey is a good option for this slip. However, keep in mind that it doesn't stretch as much as lycra-blend jerseys, so you may need to cut a size or two larger than normal.

Do any of you have a slinky knit to recommend for this type of design? Please share! I will be doing more research to find online options before I begin the sew-along for the slip, so stay tuned.

26 comments:

  1. Your inspiration slip is lovely, I may have to join in and order from Emma one sock your recommended fabric. The camisoles look great too and I am always in need of those. Now to pick a color.

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  2. http://www.tissufabrics.co.uk/fabric-store/lycra-fabrics/silk-touch-lycra-fabrics.html?p=1

    For those in the Uk tissue fabrics have something they say drapes better than micro jersey at £3.99. not sure but maybe worth a try. they have lovely colours and some animal prints.
    Patricia

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  3. I think the issue of stretchiness will be solved by cutting the pattern on the bias ( if using silk). If I remember correctly from my personal research into vintage lingerie, that what they used to do befor the nylon was invented. I also have a few slips like that, I wear to bed and feel very old Hollywood. Do you wear a bra under it when you wear it as an undergarment? It seems a lot of layers..

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  4. I used to be a technical designer in Anthropologie's intimates/sweaters/knits department. Although I didn't handle the slip you referred to, I think it was kept as a sample for future designs and tech packs. If so, you are right, it was a dream slip!

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    1. I was just thinking "I bet Maddie would know..,"

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  5. I'm so glad this is a knit pattern, I have always found woven slips to be uncomfortable. I just got the pattern this weekend, I can't wait to sew up it up! One question though -- do you have a recommended source for the stretch lace? I have been looking online and hadn't found anything yet that I thought would work well for this project.

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  6. I already bought the lace this weekend, I am so excited about this project! I've made a few half slips using your tutorial, and I am wearing them a lot! I never thought I was a slip king of girl, but it seems I am! I live in Brazil, it's really hot now, but we have this dreamy, slinky, cold fabric for slips and lingerie (I don't know the name of this fabric in English...), so I'll be using that... Can't wait for the sewalong! This is truly an amazing pattern, congratulations Gertie!

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    1. Tatiana, my guess is that you got the knit that is made with rayon with a little bit of lycra. I am actually wearing a shirt wight now that my sister bought for me in Brasil that is made of the rayon-lycra combination.

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  7. I'm planning to use a cherry red bamboo lycra jersey that I bought from FabricMart about a year ago, but am planning to use the garment as sleepwear, not as a functional slip. I only bought a yard, but knew something awesome would come around for me to make it with it...and here it is!

    Where would you recommend for the stretch lace? Sew Sassy was one place that came to mind, but I would love to hear about alternatives.

    Lastly, I was so excited when I picked up this pattern that it was A/B, C and D cup sizes! Woohoo! But I'll admit I was dismayed to find that there are NO bust measurements listed on the pattern tissue. It would've been really great to have the information at my fingertips for the different cup sizes.

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  8. Where can I find silk jersey fabric online? I only wear natural fibers and struggle to find anything these days that isn't at least partially polyester. Any suggestions on good sites to find natural fiber fabrics? Always on the lookout! BTW - love the pattern! I am planning to make the undies as well - silk underwear in my budget is a dream. Thanks!

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    1. Rayon is made from natural fiber, going through some chemical process. "Because rayon is manufactured from naturally occurring polymers, it is considered a semi-synthetic fiber". The only reason I know is that when I get dyes for cotton, the manufacturer mentions silk, rayon, etc.

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  9. Gretchen, no high-waisted "pin-up" girl brief? At some point you have to come up with an adorable high-waisted brief. Thanks.

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    1. Diana you could have a look at Ohhh Lulu's patterns, she has several different styles of high waisted pin up girl briefs: https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/OhhhLuluSews

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  10. Choosing an appropriate lingerie is crucial. Because a comfortable lingerie give you sexy as well as comfortable look. So when you are going to buy lingerie keep certain factors in your mind such as quality of material and shape and size of your body.

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  11. I loved this pattern since I saw it on your blog a few weeks ago, but I can't locate it in the UK, is it USA release only?

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    1. I've been waiting for this to come out in the UK. Just bought it from Sew Direct. Very excitied!

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  13. Very cute pattern, I've just been getting into sewing my own lingerie, and this is going on my list! Mood fabrics has a wide range of jerseys, including a bamboo/lycra that looks lovely and comes in some great colors. They also have silk jersey in a nice range of colors.

    For stretch lace sew sassy has a nice selection of different widths, and you can find a lot on etsy as well by searching for stretch lace trim.

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    1. Thanks for the sources on stretch lace!

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  14. in the south knits and rayon and nylon fabrics are WAY to hot to wear in the summer. we need cottons/batiste/voiles for sheer breathe-ability. how about some slips for us Gertie?

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  15. All the patterns I came across were for wovens, so they're certainly out there! It made more sense to address the gap in the market. Something to think about for the future though.

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  16. I love this pattern and can't wait to try it out. And I so agree with you about Emma One Sock. I've ordered a lot of items from them and they're always exactly as described and the turnaround is just insanely fast.

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  17. Nice.Thanks for your sharing.

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  18. I have some semi-vintage tricot in a few colors an am excited to try this pattern.

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  19. great guide and design for a lingerie

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  20. For those looking for colors and/or natural fibers, this seems promising. I sent them a message asking which ones are 2-way stretch. http://stores.ebay.com/highendfabrics-organics-more

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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