Monday, August 26, 2013

My New Fall/Winter Butterick Designs!

Butterick 5953 and 5962
Readers, I have two new patterns released from Butterick! 

The first is B5962, and it's directly inspired by Dior's iconic Bar Suit of 1947.


I've spent many an hour on the internet looking for a pattern that would replicate the structure of the Bar Suit, to no avail. So I decided it would be the perfect starting point for one of my Butterick patterns!
The jacket is silk faille, underlined in silk gazaar (a heavy organza) for body). It has hair canvas structure inside, as well as a horsehair stabilizer at the hem. It features bound buttonholes, a notched lapel, and cuffed sleeves.

HUGE applause to the stylist of these Butterick photos!



The hourglass shaping is achieved through side panels and darts.

The skirt is made of lace. It's lined in taffeta for body, and has a wide horsehair braid hem facing for body. The waistband is made from grosgrain ribbon.

The pattern difficulty rating is average.

Next up is B5953, a simple wrap dress with lots of vintage flair.

The star detail of this dress is the structured bands over the bust, in contrast fabric.

The dress has elbow-length sleeves, dart shaping, and a side button closure.

There's a back godet for walking ease, done in contrast fabric.


I made the sample in wool gingham, with black gabardine contrast. The edges are finished with facings, and the pattern rating is Easy.

These designs were both very challenging and satisfying to design--I hope you enjoy them!


92 comments:

  1. These are terrific! I can't wait to try them.

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  2. Beautiful, your patterns are inspiring. I am going to buy the jacket pattern as soon as I see it.

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  3. Both patterns are so classy! But I love that dress. The godet and the side buttons are great!

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  4. Love the patterns but my favorite has to be the dress! So modern but with a wonderful vintage feel. More patterns to add to my stash!

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  5. I absolutely love the dress also! I have to mention that the best picture of the bunch is the black & white of the jacket pattern. I thought it was lifted straight out of a vintage style magazine! Perfect pattern, styling, model, and everything!

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    1. The only black & white photo on the page IS a photo of the original Christian Dior 'Bar Suit', which Gertie mentions was her inspiration for her suit pattern. So it is actually a vintage photograph!

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    2. Oops! I meant to say below the black & white picture, the one of the jacket pattern. :) I kept scrolling up and down to see the similarities & differences! I'm in love with the cropped sleeves and the styling is great! The makeup is impeccable and I love the hat, long gloves, and bracelet over the glove.

      That'll teach me to not proofread my comments. :)

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    3. Haha, I understand what you are saying now! It is amazing how modern photographs can be made to look like authentic vintage though, some people really do have the retro styling down pat! Just thought I'd comment in case any one else glancing through the photos was confused. After looking at the photos again, I really think I need to find me a pair of long gloves : )

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  6. Beautiful! You are truly a talented pattern drafter Gertie!

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  7. Love them! Guess I better figure out how to make a button hole with my current machine or perfect my hand work :)

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  8. OHHHHH man! That dress!!! I just bought a bunch of patterns from butterick last week! Why oh why wasn't this released last week!?

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  9. I love the bodice on that dress especially! I might have to figure out a full-skirted version... Also, the lapel on the Dior suit is killer.

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  10. Wow! I've been buried in work-work lately, but that jacket may be enough to distract me!

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  11. I love both designs, but there's something strange about the front darts on the photo of the model, especially in the jacket.It seems to have the effect of flattening the bust?

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    1. I agree, they seem lower in the technical drawing? I feel like they should have lowered the end point on the dart for this model.

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    2. I agree, too. But the samples are made for a mannequin, not for any particular model (in fact, they're sewn long before models are casted). If only I could fit each design to a set model! Luckily, anyone who sews will be able to customize the fit for themselves.

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    3. Gertie, thank you for that explanation. It explains why sometimes it seems the garments are really not fit well to the model...because they AREN'T fit FOR the model!

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    4. Thanks, Gertie, I always wondered about that. :)

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    5. One of these days I'll do a post on the whole process! I found it fascinating to get a glimpse "behind the scenes" of a pattern company.

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  12. That dress! Swooning over here!!

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  13. Gorgeous! I especially love the dress; the fabric is a perfect choice although it would also be fabulous in a jewel-toned solid with black contrast!

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  14. I fell in love with the jacket! I hope I can sew it properly :)

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  15. I have always loved the Dior Bar Suit! I am so happy you made a pattern for it so we can all recreate it for ourselves!

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  16. Love it. Do you think interfacing would work well inside the jacket to give the bottom some stiffness?

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  17. Wonderful designs Gertie, you certainly have been working hard for us all. Thank you.

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  18. Great work! I really love those designs.

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  19. This dress is unbelievable! You did a fantastic job!

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  20. These were my two favourites of the new collection. Gertie you're a genius!

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  21. LOVELY patterns, Gertie! It's high time somebody reproduced Dior's famous New Look jacket, and the dress is gorgeous, too. If I wasn't busy getting ready for my England costume trip I'd have to whip out a garment from one or both of them right away!

    Keep up the wonderful designs!

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  22. Love them both. I'm just making the suit out of your book (muslin fits great) but 'm ordering the suit pattern as soon as I can!

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  23. I can't wait to add both of these to my stash!

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  24. They are both gorgeous! I've always wanted one of those Dior type suits, maybe I'll be brave enough to tackle a jacket when the possibility of something so wonderful could be the end result. And would you consider doing a sew along for the suit for those of us easily intimidated?

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  25. WOW! The suit is absolutely gorgeous! Would love to tackle that jacket as I'm an hourglass...scared stiff but hoping maybe a sew along will help get me over the fear! Your work is inspiring and so worthy of the "vintage-inspired" label! Thanks for sharing your talents!

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  26. Wow! Great job of creating couture pieces for us to make at home ;) Thank you!!

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  27. The dresses don't seem to fit the model very well... they look baggy over the bust. Also the sleeves on the black dress are pulling in a weird way. What is Butterick thinking? If a pattern looks bad on the model I don't want to buy it.

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  28. i just made a pattern order and am really regretting not getting that dress! d'oh!

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  29. That suit pattern is amazing. Love the styling they did for it!

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  30. Congrats Gertie! These are amaz!ing

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  31. You are spot on with the Bar suit inspiration. Congratulations! I was privileged to see an original Bar suit many, many years ago in the V&A museum in London.
    Love the other dress, too :)
    I am finding the best way to leave a comment on your blog is through Wordpress Reader.

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  32. Hi Gertie,

    I'm a fashion editor for a sewing magazine here in Australia...we regularly show your designs on our pages as they are some of my favourites!
    Regards,

    Eddi Frantz
    Sewing With Stitches magazine

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  33. Clap, clap, clap!! Bravo! Bravo! You took it totally to another level! Good going!!

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  34. Gorgeous!!! Love that Dress! Wish I could sew well enough to give it a go...

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  35. What an amazing jacket! I've been wanting to recreate this modern Dior jacket http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2013RTW-CDIOR/#6 for a while - and your pattern is perfect. While I love the retro styling - I also like the modern bar suit with wide leg pants look. Thank you!
    Also, will you do a sew along??

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  36. Beautiful patterns, you did a great job!

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  37. I'm speechless. Truly, these patterns are so amazing, as they really catch that vintage style. I'm in love with your Bar Suit, however, I'm rather on the round side, so I doubt I would look like an hour-glass :-) Thank you for all your inspiration!

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    1. Never discount what foundation garments can do--women weren't naturally shaped like that back then either!

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  38. i ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT JACKET! i'VE GOT TO FIND A REASON TO WORK IT INTO MY RETIRED TEACHER'S WARDROBE

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    1. Diana, I am in your shoes too, and I think this will look great with jeans and a T shirt, so I'm going to give it a go!

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  39. Oh, Gertie. Both are beautiful! I will definitely be putting them on my list, the dress right at the top!

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  40. I'm so glad the sizing for the suit goes up to a 24. I can actually sew one of your patterns now!

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    1. I know, I'm so happy about that too!

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  41. What an outstanding set of patterns! I have posted a blog article featuring these new looks --they are so great I want everyone to know about them! I also plan to make the jacket soon, taking my blog readers along for the ride. Thanks for all of the work you did to create these exciting new patterns.

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  42. Wow!I have to have these patterns! I love the suit, but I think the dress will be more flattering to my figure. Both designs are timeless and elegant.

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  43. Congrats Gertie! another awesome collection! I don't think ill ever make one personally, but i appreciate the effort you, and the other sewers will make in sewing these!
    And also - sewing patterns that give a challenge! As much as i pull my hair out over them, patterns that make you actually think about your next step are the most rewarding in the end!

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  44. Great jacket, looks very figure flattering.

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  45. Silliest thing in the world, but: I've always loved the look of the neat little suits of 50s courthouse weddings, and wanted a nice gray wedding suit that had enough pizzazz for the occasion but could be trundled out for later wear.... I'm going to be buying this pattern and hiding it away for an unknown future, because while I'd settled on your earlier suit jacket, this is too perfect to be believed! Thank you for always exceeding expectations!

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  46. I just looked back at your twirl skirt 1st draping project June 2010. How incredibly far and fast you've come!!! You are a poster child for follow your passion. I like the newest patterns too. I think I could carry off that dress very well.

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  47. wow, I love both of them. Definitely will buy the dress. It would make a perfect, pretty and stylish office wear.

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  48. Oh, and another one. How quickly does the printable versions appear? The shipping to my country is more expensive than the pattern itself. :(

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  49. they are stunning, I adore the Dior new look! SO the jacket and skirt will start my autumnal must makes list!

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  50. I really like both designs. I'll be taking the wrap dress out for drinks at some point. :) Well done.

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  51. Well done Gertie i love both patterns lets have a sew-a-long for that jacket please.
    Winsome

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  52. Both patterns are on sale now at Butterick online ~ $4.99 or $3.99 for ClubBMV. Whoot!

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  53. I too have wanted to recreate the Dior Bar jacket for a very long time, and I am wondering if this pattern could be the basis for a more accurate copy? I know this pattern gives a very good approximation (it is immediately recognisable, from the first glace) and will suit intermediate sewists, but I want to go further (and I know you do too Gertie). Could I use this pattern to create a more authentic look? I am thinking of turning it into a princess seamed bodice, or maybe putting a seam at the waist with a separate peplum attatched. Obviously I don't want to go all the way with loads of padding, interlining etc, but I still think there is a further step one could take. What do you think? Thanks!

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  54. I NEED that wrap dress!I think I'm in love.

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  55. Congrats, Gertie, they both look amazing!

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  56. Lovely patterns! I have mixed feelings about these retro looks. on the one hand, I * love * them!!! On the other hand, I'm an overweight apple, impossible to nip in my waist. If I had a 3rd hand, I'd say that I'm grateful that you keep creating these lovelies and giving me an incentive to slim down (and get a waist-cinching longline foundation!). Really, Gertie, they're gorgeous, I'm drooling....

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    1. Love the wrap dress! Would you consider a long sleeve tute? For those of us stuck in offices where it is always freezing?

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  57. The wrap dress is fantastic! Would it be doable in one of Joann's thicker flannels?

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    1. Hello. I have progressed far enough on the wrap dress pattern to offer some advice! I would not go for one of those thicker flannels. I saw them and was totally tempted, but am very glad I didn't try it. First off, I'm afraid that the darts in front and back would be too bulky, and the wearer would end up looking thicker than she is. Second, there is a lot of easing and curving of pattern pieces to fit one another, especially on the black front collar like pieces. I saw a wool blend at Joanne's that looks exactly like what is shown on the envelope. I am using one of Joanne's fall suitings, a poly blend, and it is going together beautifully. Hope this helps!

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  58. Wow, those are really great designs! I'm not really into slim/straight skirts, but the details of the wrap dress really make me want to try it. Maybe I'd find out the shape suits me after all...

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  59. I just have to tell you how much I love these, especially the wrap dress. Unlike some of the vintage reprints, your patterns have a retro feel but still work well in modern settings. I can't wait to get these!

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  60. bonsoir la robe est magnifique le contraste la rend encore plus agréable pour le regard
    bravo corinne

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  61. Gertie: are you having a sew along or tutorial for the Dior Suit.
    Love your patterns.

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  62. I received my patterns on Saturday, and I think I can figure out how to alter them. The sixty-four thousand dollar question (how's that for retro) is, where am I going to find fabric? I was in JoAnn's. There's enough fleece to outfit a dozen Antarctic expeditions, but nothing for these patterns. Also, can anyone offer alternatives for the suggested fabrics? I don't care to hear myself walk and I've reached the age where the very thought of wool gives me a dripping glow. Thanks!

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    1. I hear you RZ. I bypassed the wool blends, including one that looked just like what was on the pattern envelope. I picked a cotton poly blend from the Joann's section called "fall suitings." It a small houndstooth plaid. I have now sewed up all the pattern pieces, but haven't yet done the finishing. I have been extremely happy with my choice. It is sewing together beautifully and seems to be the perfect weight. I would caution against any thing too heavy, because there is a lot of easing and turning in the pattern. I also went with bias tape for finishing the seams, and it is looking as good inside as outside!!! Also the recommended yardage is generous. I bought extra so I could match the plaid, and didn't need it. I encourage you to go for it! I would classify it as intermediate skill level, and it is constructed in a way I have never seen before! I am having a wonderful time with it!

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  63. Oh, congrats Gertie, both patterns are beautiful! I will buy both next time I'm at the fabric store, I find them perfect to wear at work, and both "ensembles" are easy to dress up or down.

    Are you going to post a tutorial/sew-along, as I find it so much easier to follow instructions when you explains it and post pictures than follow the pattern's instructions. That would be awesome!

    Also is there a way to do it without the horse hair braid? I'm not sure I'm ready for that yet!

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  64. Gorgeous!! I saw the wrap dress in an email from Butterick and recommended it to my daughter who said, oh the new Gertie. I hadn't even realized it was one of yours. As I long-time reader, it tickles me to see you finding your niche and continuing your beautiful work.

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  65. You have done a great job on both of these patterns! When will they be available in local stores? Have already been to local Hancock's and they are not there but I certainly want them

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  66. I just love love the suit! Dress is very nice too but I am a suit nut so I will be making that

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  67. Wow, love the jacket, will definitely make it, but I must say the models do these patterns no justice. They don't fill out these clothes in an attractive way at all. I feel your designs are for curves, and your whole philosophy is about the fitting, too bad the models don't fit the clothes.(or the clothes don't fit the models)

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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