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Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Cambie, Take Two

I loved my first Cambie so much, that I immediately cut out a second! I used a straight neckline this time, and I think I prefer it to the sweetheart. I had this Japanese double gauze in my stash and it was perfect. It's brown with aqua dots on it.
As a brunette, I would have totally avoided this color. But as a pinkhead, I think it's perfect. I've realized that I had very set ideas about what colors I could wear, and it's fun getting to turn my rules upside down. BTW, this pic was taken just after I'd gotten my hair colored and blown out. Hence the smoothness and lack of roots.
 Armpit flap! Sexy!
A couple construction notes. I spent some time making this in the studio, so I didn't have fusible with me. So instead of using a strip of fusible to stabilize the pocket opening, I used a little strip of the fabric's selvage. It worked perfectly! In fact, I think I prefer it to fusible since it's so strong. That pocket is NEVER going to stretch out of shape.

On the inside, I used a Freespirit voile solid in perfectly coordinating aqua as a lining and it is amazing--though, at $14 a yard, not for every project. (See my post about summer linings here.) Again, I added a front facing so the lining wouldn't peek out the top.


Hey, did you notice my shoes? I went for the Worishofer wedges, and OMG. They are so comfy.


In shop news! I got more of this beautiful Ascher mint bow print, which is a miracle. My supplier told me he was out, and then unexpectedly got more! It sold out so quickly last time, and I'm dubious I'll be able to get any more in this color again.



I saved 4 yards of it for myself, and I think it's going to be my next project. I want to make Vogue 8789 with it, since I think the ribbon will form a cool chevron on the bodice. I'll just have to be very strategic with it, so I don't end up with boob bows.



38 comments:

  1. Lovely Cambie, I'm going to have to make myself one. THanks for the pocket / selvage tip.

    I managed to get 3 yards of the Ascher fabric from your original listing. It arrived on Monday and its a beauty.

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  2. Nice pattern, i really like the neckline... you make it look soooo easy... i am working on your sweetheart sundress with a pencilskirt ...i am really having fun with it...apart from having to use google translate now and again to figure out the Dutch translations.....;-), but for now i am actually understanding it...

    please write a second book...:-)

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  3. So, so pretty! That dress is so flattering on you.

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  4. Armpit flap. I thought of this the other day as I was reading an article about airbrushing. Armpit flap was one of the things airbrushed or smoothed in photos...so it's no wonder we have armpit flap anxiety!

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    1. Hey, I saw that article too! It sure makes a good point about how unfamiliar most people are with real girls bodies out there in 'perfection land'. Missed it? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2340800/Retailers-moral-obligation-ban-airbrush-Debenhams-spearheads-ban-retouched-model-shots-calls-follow-suit.html?upworthy

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  5. You are just sewing up a storm lately for yourself! How wonderful!

    rosiewednesday.blogspot.com

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  6. Lovely dress. It is a very flattering design too. Thanks so much for the tip about using the selvedge - very useful.

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  7. What a genius idea to use the selvage as a stabilizer! I think the brown looks fabulous with your pink hair, and I'm dying over that bow print fabric!! I have a vintage 50s pattern that would look awesome made up in that fabric. Don't tempt me ;)

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  8. I've seen so many people raving about the Cambie dress, and loved all of the various versions I've seen; it's a little pricey but it sounds as though it's absolutely worth it, so I may have to invest!

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  9. Whoops, sorry, I guess I need my glasses checked because I don't see ANY armpit flap! LOL I see a beautiful woman in a beautiful dress. The colour combo is great on you!
    Your idea for selvage as stabilizer is great; frugal, strong and keeps selvage out of the garbage.

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  10. Boob bows are the new black. Trufax.

    I love the Cambie dress! I just wish it came in bigger bust sizes. :(

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  11. love that fabric + pattern combo for your next project, I can see those chevrons! pretty Cambie, too, I think I need to order that pattern, it is so versatile.

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  12. Go armpit flap! Your cambie is so pretty. I love the bright pop of the aqua lining!

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  13. Lovely Cambie! I've heard of using selvage as a stabilizer but keep forgetting to try it out, I must do so soon.

    I got some of the lovely lightweight purple floral from you last week (trying to push my color comfort zone since I typically don't go for purples), and now I'm thinking it might make a great Cambie! I've used the pocket pattern twice but have yet to sew up the dress, it's about time!

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  14. very beautiful! you inspire me to get going. soon. Keeping posting your work, really enjoying following you

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  15. By the way, I wonder if you (or any of your many wonderful readers!) might be able to give me some advice on hemming; straight skirts are fine, but I find it really difficult to get a nice crisp, smooth hem on anything even slightly curved; I've tried deep hems and narrow hems, hand-sewn and machine-stitched, cotton, polyester, linen, wool, and brocade; I've tried machine-stitching along the line to be turned up before hemming, I've tried just ironing the hell out of everything, but my hems always seem to come out a little lumpy and uneven. What is the secret? How do you ease in the extra so that the hem sits smoothly?

    I'm a fairly new sewist, and my skills are gradually improving (I now sew a beautiful lapped zipper, largely thanks to your fabulously clear tutorial!), and my next big project (after some nice easy jersey pyjamas!) is a shirtdress from a vintage 50s pattern, which has an awful lot of hem, so I'd really like it to be neat and crisp, and I figure if anyone can help, you can!

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  16. I was searching through patterns the other day looking for the perfect one for some Alfred Shaheen fabric I found stashed in a little quilt shop in NC. When I saw Vogue 8789, I immediately thought of the bow print in your shop! Please make it, I'd love to see it :)

    PS - I've ordered a couple of patterns for my Shaheen fabric and may just combine them to get the look I want.

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  17. Sushi dog, run a gathering sitch along the inside of the Hem so you can gather it slightly as you go along :) this works well if you are doing invisible hand hemming. You should also hang full skirts for a few days before you hem them.

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  18. That bow fabric is PERFECT for that pattern! Can't wait to see the chevron bodice :)

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  19. selvedges are so handy! I first used them when I got the urge to make a skirt one sunday evening. The ever reliable stash provided fabric, zip, thread and lining, but i was out of stay tape. The fabric was a very fine summer weight wool, and the selvedge was perfect. Since then, I've used selvedges a lot - no stretch, and there is is never a shortage!

    Love the Cambi - I have the pattern, and hope to make it up for next summer (currently in the depths of winter here in Tasmania! Brrrr!)

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  20. You are awesome. Boob bows! And I love the armpit flap! (though it doesn't really seem so much like a flap to me, but I digress). It is sexy!

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  21. Your cambie dress is super gorgeous, I think I want to try one myself, but I have to take lessons first :)

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  22. Had a peer at the screen, but not even a AA sized armpit flap. You are going to have to do some serious eating to get a decent set! Imagine- the new plastic surgery- armpit flap enhancement. Love your Cambies, but I've been put off going down that path by my rampant hourglass figure. I've been scared off by the "pear shaped" fitting. Not sure if I've got a FBA in me. I tend to just make a huge size and take in the loose bits with the help of Ruby, my willing dressmaker's model. I can't wait to see the Vogue pattern made up. I have admired it, but thought the bust line might be a bit unflattering on me. I bet it will look gorgeous on you! xx

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  23. gorgeous! and the inside is soooo neat and perfectg you could *almost* even wear it that way

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  24. This is gorgeous. I love the inside too. Great dress!

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  25. Very impressive. I loathe sewing with sheer fabrics, so I double applaud you. Beautiful dresses.

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  26. Great dress! Think the boob bows in your new project would be too hilarious indeed, so good luck on avoiding them...

    pienkel.blogspot.com

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  27. Such a lovely dress but I do agree the straight neckline looks nicer than the sweetheart neckline but at the same time, they're both gorgeous dresses :)

    Good luck with the next project, can't wait to read about it!!

    If you're interested, here's my blog: http://melanievalentine01.blogspot.co.uk/

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  28. EEP! I love that bow print!! Can't wait to see how it looks in dress form :)

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  29. Just got my Threads magazine today and you are in it! Such fun to read about your work. And my son was in soho last night , he follows you thru me, and he swears he saw you walking around SoHo.Congratulations are your new house

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  30. I love all your dresses and am looking forward to getting my sewing room set up after the big move next fall and learning how to sew one for myself (with your book, that my hubby gave me for Christmas). My goodness, whatever do you do with all those dresses? We look the same size....hint hint. Lol!

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  31. How funny, that same double gauze spotty fabric with the coordinating print is to be my next dress project! I was wondering about the need to line it, and see you've lined yours. I guess some very fine cotton voile would work. And my, that Ascher print is gorgeous!

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  32. i've just made the vogue chevron dress- I wore it today! In cotton/ linen blend blue and white stripes. I can't wait to see your version.

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  33. Hello from the Philippines...
    I am fascinated with vintage stuff, that is why I got here and boy am I glad to have found great tutorials from you. Thanks for your generous tips and for sharing beautiful dresses with us. Makes me want to make stuff for myself more, too (since I only make clothes for dolls :))..
    Hope to drop by more often.

    shasha

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  34. Hi, Gertie, longtime lurker here--just want to say I love the pink hair! Plus I appreciate your sewing explanations and tips. Love the new dress and props to you for coming up with a unique stabilizing solution!

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  35. I'm loving the pocket stabilising tip. It's never actually been something that I've had trouble with (pockets, and stretching) and therefore never tested. But methinks I will.

    Also, you have a studio?!? Epic envy!

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  36. Great fabric, I'd wear that colour too as a blondie!

    MORE ARMPIT PLEASE!

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  37. Hi, I'm Michaela, I tend to be a lurker, sorry. But I love your blog!
    I laughed a lot with your original armpit flap post, but for the life of me, I honestly can't even see what you are talking about! I mean, yes, I see your armpit. But it doesn't seem remarkably different from any others I've seen. Am I crazy?? Maybe I don't look at enough airbrushed clothing ads...
    Either way, I love the dress :)

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie