Hey readers! I realized that one of the things I can do while I'm working on top secret projects is to put together little mini tutorials without showing an entire garment. For instance, right now I'm working on developing a classic 40s style blouse pattern. A project like this usually takes me several tries in fabric, which is a plus because then I end up with several new blouses in my wardrobe! So the one you see here won't actually end up in my next book, it's just part of my process.
I've written about shaping a tailored jacket collar with steam, but it's worth mentioning that you can do the same thing with an interfaced shirt collar. Going through these steps will give you a shirt collar that stands up and rolls around your neck nicely. What you're doing is "training" it into shape with steam. Here's how it works.
First, interface the upper collar only. I'm using a soft sew-in interfacing, which gets basted to the collar piece. (Yes, I know I'm not going to win any awards for the aesthetics of my basting stitches.)
Stitch around the outer edges. I like to take one stitch diagonally across the corner to get a crisper point.
Press so that the seam line rolls toward the under collar (this way it won't show on the outside of the collar).
Pin the collar to a tailor's ham, arranging the roll of the collar as desired. Remember that you still have a neckline seam allowance on the collar, so take that into account as you're pinning. I make the stand of my collar about 1 inch tall.
Steam well (do not press down on the collar, just apply lots of steam to it) and leave to dry for at least several hours.
When you remove it from the ham and sew it to your shirt, you'll have a nicely shaped roll on your collar!
P.S. For a hardcore shirt collar tutorial, check out Pam's blog. I've been meaning to try her method because it looks awesome!