Friday, March 8, 2013

Reader Question: Will Butterick 5882 Work on a Large Bust?

Hi readers! Today I thought I'd answer a FAQ about one of my new Butterick patterns, number 5882. This design has a feature called a "shelf bust," which is a set-in inlay of pleats with a bias band underneath.

The question I've been hearing a lot is: will this style work on a figure with a larger bust? My opinion is a resounding YES. Now let me tell you why.

While it may seem like a shelf bust would draw extra attention and volume to a large bust, that's only really true if the "shelf" extends to the bottom of the bustline. Let me explain what I mean.

Check out these dresses from my long-ago inspiration post.



The bustline looks heavy on all of these because it extends to below the bust, where the underwire on your bra would be.

In my version, I made the shelf more shallow to minimize this heaviness. The shelf seamline goes across the bustline horizontally, visually minimizing its proportions.


The other thing I did was to make the pleated insets rather small, proportionately. If you look a repro brand Trashy Diva's shelf bust dress, you'll see that the pleated sections are rather large.



Now, don't get me wrong. I am a HUGE Trashy Diva fan. But I tried this dress on and felt that my bustline looked enormous (and I'm a B cup!). If you look at my design in comparison, the pleated sections are much smaller.

So that's my reasoning for liking this style for a larger bustline. But please keep in mind that this is not a modest neckline! You will be showing cleavage, but I think my pattern will minimize the overall scale of the bustline, if that makes sense. 

Of course, the more important question is how to do an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) on this style? I'm going to dedicate a post to the topic, but here's the short answer. You would need to add length and width in the seams around the bust: the shelf seamline, and the princess seams below it. From there, you would need to slash and spread the pleated inset and its lining piece to fit your new bodice. That's probably really hard to visualize, which is why I'll do a post on the whole topic. 

I hope this helps!


49 comments:

  1. Yay this is great to know! and something I was concerned with too, looking forward to the FBA post :D Thanks Gertie!

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  2. That's one of the things I love about this dress pattern. Can't wait to try it out.

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  3. Absolutely love this. Can't wait to see your FBA post to go with this pattern!

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  4. Thank you Gertie! As someone with a 6" difference betwen high and full bust I'm really glad that this can be made to work for me! I'm also really pleased that you went for a smaller shelf and didn't extend it to the underwire as that much pleating would be ermmm, overwhelming?!
    I don't mind a bit of cleavage, but at the same time I don't want the girls to be more 'centre stage' than is perhaps necessary - does that make sense?
    Any how, love the design and can't wait to see the mechanics of the adjustment!

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  5. Thank you!!! I bought this pattern yesterday to make for a full-busted friend. I will make a muslin tonight and I was wondering how much of an adjustment I was going to have to make to accommodate for a larger bust. I look forward to your detailed blog posting on the topic. I am going to dive right in tonight with the FBA you described above.
    Yea!!

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  6. Butterick patterns are drafted for a B cup, right? As an F cup, I feel like it would be easier to take your design as an inspiration and to redraft the bust off of a sloper that I have. Any chance you'd be willing to show a bit of the design process for the pattern?

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  7. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I don't know if I'm the reader you're referring to, but I did ask about doing an FBA for this pattern, and I cannot WAIT to see your post on it!

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  8. I just bought this pattern yesterday. (and your coat pattern as well)
    I'll be making it for my friend who is built pretty much like the model in the photos.
    I may lower the shelf line to enhance her bust a bit more.

    I love this style, but I'm not sure it would be flattering for my size/shape.

    I'm looking forward to the FBA post on this.
    I found your blog (and book) about a month ago and I love it!
    Thanks for sharing :)

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  9. Wait, so it will then cut across my bust? Damn, I don't think I will like that on my FF boobs :( They look funny unless things go under them, cutting them in to makes me look fat!

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    1. i know what you mean BUT i think this might actually be one time wher eit will work. i think this might actually look good. i'm an F and really like this but was afraid to tryit. given gertie's post, i think i just might (AFTEr i finish the coat!!! and AFTer i see a fuller busted woman's version ;) )

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    2. I am with Michelle on this one. I will believe it when I see it. A seam that cuts through the middle of a full bust just makes it look like you are wearing something that is too small for you. The picture that Gertie has showing where the bottom of the model's bustline is only applies to small busts in my opinion. That transition would look A LOT different on someone with an ample bosom. The model is barely an A! Of course there isn't much of a difference between the bottom of her bust and her ribs! Excited to see if Gertie can make this work, because I would buy this pattern in a second!

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    3. I like the dress but I'm huge (and uneven) and spend rather a lot of effort trying to visually minimise the wretched things as much as possible. I just can't see this one working for me but I'd love to be proven wrong.
      I think on a very large bust (I'm talking FF-K and beyond here girls) the overall effect will either be that the bodice of the dress is way too small (a common problem) or the neckline is so low that there is an undergarment showing out the top which again makes the bodice look too small, just in the opposite direction!
      I'm watching this with interest.

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  10. Yes to a full bust adjustment post. Not all FBAs are quite the same and the more variations I learn the better.

    ~Sewjourner

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  11. Your lovely new patterns are finally available in the UK. Have just ordered the dress pattern. Can't wait to get cracking on it!!

    Thanks for this post - very useful.

    Linda xx

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  12. Don't you need a new party dress for St. Patty's Day? *wink wink*

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  13. If I had a cleavage, I would love to show it off this way! I think it will look great on the larger bust, It is a lovely dress.

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  14. I'm happy to have this pattern. The dress is so well designed, I love it!

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  15. Thank you Gertie! Looking forward to the FBA post!

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  16. Great question...I love this dress, but have a bigger than B bust. Looking forward to your detailed FBA post with bated breath! :D

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  17. Gertie, you are a doll! Thank you! I just got this pattern in the mail and I am super excited to start on it. I was one of the full bust inquirers. I don't mind showing cleavage - in a dress like this, I'm not worried about modesty. I may have a go at an FBA for it on my own if I get to it before you have time - I know you are busy right now!

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  18. I've always wanted a shelf bust dress. Can't wait to read about the FBA!

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  19. It is such a lovely design, and it is sexy, without being vulgar- it is sweet sexy. You really once again nailed it! I am so blown away, once again by your creativity! Cheers!

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  20. Yes that makes sense but a tutorial would sure help
    DD girls don't need more attention than they already get
    Kb

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  21. Hi Gertie! I bought your pattern and I can't wait to get it in the mail! The set-in inlay of pleats of your dress looks different from the one on the model, am I right? It looks higher and I personally prefer it that way.

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    1. That's because Gertie flipped the bias tape down under the bust in hers and the Butterick people didn't ;)

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  22. Joanns had a Butterick pattern sale.I went to get this pattern and they were all gone! and the other one of the Blouse and Pedal pushers were gone too! :(. I glad it sold out (that means it is popular) I hate I cant get my hands on them! :(

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    1. They're currently on sale online at BMV for 1,99$

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  23. That dress is awesome and I love the way you have decreased the pleating. Not all big girls want to add even more bulk! Ps adore your first two patterns for butterick. Understand we are now getting them in the UK. Yippee!

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  24. I agree, I've always had a large bust and often worn this style of dress! Love the pattern btw, simply gorgeous!

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  25. If only this were my problem... It's nice to know that there are many body types that can suit this dress nicely, and that the patternmaker actually cares!

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  26. Looking forward to a more detailed post on this, but may try it with your tips. Thanks a lot!

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  27. Gertie, when you do your post on an FBA for this pattern, could you also include a mini-tute on lowering the band to the underbust? I'd prefer not to minimize anything about my curves, and I'm sure some of the smaller buster would like the option of emphasizing theirs. Thank you.

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    1. I have to agree with you. I don't think a band across my ample cleavage would be comfortable. Frankly it is my best asset

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  28. Thanks Gertie! i'm definately interested in the fuller bust option (36FF) and the lower band, i'm all for maximising!

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    1. Exactly! (32G here) flaunt it if you've got it :)

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  29. I'm looking forward to the FBA post. Like Aliss, I would love it if you could also extend some tips to the upper end of the cup scale, i.e more than 2" addition. (NZ doesn't have FF, so I guess that would make a G?)

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    1. Depends on where it is manufactured because some brands run F, FF, G etc and others F, G, GG etc.
      Personally I'm in a 12GG/H and I would be amazed if I could get away with this style! I do love the dress though so I'll be keeping an eye out for examples of the finished product on other well endowed girls.

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  30. I can see the proportions being absolutely fine, but I would make sure only to make and fit this when wearing a good bra, perhaps with some bust boning to give the right sort of line. If the shelf is not running under the bust then it will probably not be giving any lift but will flatten, and it will be hard to get the right fit.

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  31. I love this and am very excited for the Fba. Do you think it would work in a seersucker or would that not drape nicely enough? Thanks!

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  32. Firstly, I love this pattern (as well as the others)!

    I'm in the same boat as Jessica Louise, though; I'm afraid that that the reduced shelf will have a flattening effect and emphasize the lack of cleavage. Is it an easy fix to lower band?

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  33. I love it, love it. It has got to be tiring to carry around all that creativity in your lil head. :-)

    I would love to sport this dress with no cleavage. I'll keep reading to see if that would be possible. I am a 38D and really don't need the church ladies opinions. I know, I know.

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  34. Have pattern in hand, looking for perfect fabric and waiting for instructions for large bustline. This would be a great dress to make and show off. I have been looking at old tv shows and found a few examples of this style I love. Hope I don't have to have the tiny waistlines like the actress'.

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  35. We want NO we DEMAND a BUSTY...Luscious Shelf Bust dress pattern! The FULL MONTY! I have this pattern and while I support modesty. I some dresses you just Have to have it! ... and as the song says ".... is busting out all over!"
    ~please post instructions and post them soon.
    ~retroREfinery

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  36. I love love love this pattern!!!! Was going to make it for a friend's wedding but I only have a month to do it in. **SIGH** My measurements usually take about three weeks to customize around and another 3-4 weeks to make the final product (my mom instilled in me to do couturier-like habits when sewing). This pattern would be the perfect "I am here!" moment.
    Side idea: maybe the front pieces, especially under the bust for the well endowed, could be sectionally reinforced (like the shoulder/bust area for a jacket. Like padstitching a stronger but super thin layer to the underlining before attaching the fashion layer.

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  37. Thank you for the upcoming FBA tutorial. Could you please pretty please model it on a real busty woman (rather than a mannequin). Would love to see how this would fit.

    I don't necessarily agree with previous commentators that the seam would be unflattering on a large bust as long as the shaping beneath is done well. The pleating could serve as a sweet little cover at the top sort of kind of the way a frilly cami works under a cleavagey dress or shirt.

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  38. raises hand-I also need the FBA tutorial! LOVE LOVE LOVE this and like others, I'd love to see it on an AVERAGE size as well as plus size person!

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  39. I would love a tutorial in adapting this pattern to be a more traditional shelf bust look - I adore the trashy diva dresses but would rather do it myself!

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  40. Gertie please please put a 50's inspired swimsuit line !!! You are amazing and so are you patterns ...love ya

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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