Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Pattern Changes for the Pinkie Pie Dress

Hello, readers! As promised, I wanted to walk you through the bodice pattern changes I made to turn the Wiggle Dress pattern from my book into the Pinkie Pie dress. Here's the original in wool tweed:

And then here's the Pinkie Pie version:


Here's an overall map of the bodice pattern changes.

Here's how I did it:

1. Underarm. The pattern, as published, has gussets under the arms for a close fit. They look like this when sewn.


I eliminated the gussets to form a dolman sleeve, which is similar to a kimono sleeve. This is a great option if you're feeling a little intimidated by sewing gussets or if you're using a fray-prone or delicate fabric (these fabrics may tear at the stress points of the gussets during wear).

It's helpful to use a French Curve ruler for this. Here's what mine looks like. (You can most likely find a household item to substitute, like a saucer or other small round object.)

Start with the bodice side front. Place the French curve under the arm, connecting the side seam to the underarm seam. Draw a new line, as indicated in red below. You're adding a little triangle that extends down about 1.5" from the original underarm point.


2. Trace this underarm curve onto your back bodice pattern piece, so that the underarm seams match up perfectly.

3. When sewing, eliminate the gussets. Stitch the front bodice to the back bodice at the overarm seam, and then stitch the underarm seam. Reinforce at the curviest part of the underarm seam by stitching again 1/8" away from your original seam line (in the seam allowance) and then trim close to the second line of stitching. Clip and then press the underarm seam open above and below the underarm curve.

4. Waistline pattern changes. Draw a new seamline at the waistline curve on the dress front, side front, and back pattern pieces. Give yourself a 1" seam allowance (indicated by the dotted purple line) so that you can adjust the waistline if needed during fitting. Cut off the pattern below the 1" seam allowance.

5. You can add any skirt you like to the new bodice. Check out pages 98-103 in my book for full directions on making dirndl and circle skirt patterns. What I did for the Pinkie Pie dress was essentially a dirndl skirt, but with side pleats rather than gathers. Baste the new skirt to the dress bodice and then try on to make sure you're happy with the waistline placement.

That's all there is to it! Let me know if you have any questions.

21 comments:

  1. PINKIE PIE! I love her! This dress is fab, I've been itching to make my own MLP dress, but am struggling to find some fabric - where did you find yours?

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    1. I designed it on Spoonflower--see my previous post for more details. :)

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    2. There are a lot of My Little Pony inspired fabrics on Spoonflower, so definitely check it out.

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  2. How does the sleeve change affect your range of motion for your arms in this dress? It looks like it might be a bit limitting in raising the arms up.

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    1. Yes, you're definitely giving up some overarm mobility in this design. If that's important (like for an everyday/work dress), I would stick with the gussets or use a true kimono sleeve, which sticks straight out from the bodice, rather than angling downwards. I hope to do a tutorial for that soon!

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  3. I cant wait till I get your book (I have just ordered it...). I am sooo going to sew this dress.
    Best wishes from
    Susanne

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  4. Oh, this is grand! Thank you for this and for your book. It is amazing!

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  5. One of my 6th graders showed me a picture that she had drawn of Pinkie Pie. I in turn showed her your dress...just to prove that adults still liked ponies as well :)

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  6. You were quick - or maybe it wasn't as difficult as I imagined. I'm looking forward to trying the "wiggle" dress with gussets and the dolman sleeve versions - I just need to find the right fabric.

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  7. You look charming and the instructions are easy to understand to. Now to try this one day...

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  8. Oh. My. God. I just stumbled onto your blog...where have I been?!? You are adorable! Love, love, love this! I can't drag myself away. I just ordered your book and can't wait to get into it.

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  9. I really do like it when you empower people to use the pattern as a creative springboard, and not simply a formula to follow. I've always felt that so many "here's the pattern I used" posts eliminate the info people need to really translate it for themselves. Good work!

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  10. Hi Gertie, thank you for this post, I figure that's how its done, but nice to get specific instructions. I have a question about the original pattern (and how cool is the fact that I can ask the author herself:))Did you line/ underline the gusseted versions of the dress? And is you lined it, what did you do with the gussets? Same story, silk organza patches and all? I made this version http://thehomeblues.blogspot.co.il/2012/12/the-red-wiggle-dress-gerties-book-for.html and and haven't lined the arms, and have just the lining part left to finish for my second one. (Thank you!:)

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  11. I like the way you made it!!! Thank you for the tips ;)

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  12. Hi Gertie, I have stumbled on your blog a while back and keep coming back for the wonderful things you make. I also follow your tutorials on Creativebug. I am new to sewing (has been only a little more than a year). I want to make your wiggle dress for a friend. Do you think it is going to be too difficult for a beginner? Thank you!!!! Sohini

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  13. Love them both, but the pinkie pie is really adorable! Nice to now have both options.

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  14. Thanks for the fab tips, this dress looks absolutely gorgeous!! They both do! XxxX http://thesecondhandrose.blogspot.co.uk

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  15. Not related to this post...

    Not sure if it was intentional, but are you aware that not all the photos in the left menu link?

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  16. Oh my gosh, I love your dress with the hair! Perfect match.

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  17. Seeing how the skirt looked on your pinkie dress...helped me to finally decide to go with that style on my dress.
    http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/candy-wrapper-dress.html
    Totally loving your book BTW. I keep using the portrait blouse as my 'sloper' to base dresses off.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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