Friday, November 9, 2012
Coat Sew-Along: Hemming and Finishing!
Hurrah! We're there! The last steps of Butterick 5824.
Let's get this thing hemmed. First, you're going to do a line of basting stitches 1/4" from the bottom edge of the coat. I put a heavy duty thread in my bobbin since my fabric is kind of thick--it helps with pulling up the basting threads (so they don't snap and break). Because this hem is so flared, we need to gather up the raw edge to reduce the extra ease in the hem allowance. (Sorry about the weird colors in the photos; I shot them in the middle of the night!)
So I got out my blind hemmer foot and did it that way!
It ends up looking like this. (Yay, we're back to daylight pictures!)
If your fabric is thin (or you just prefer to hand stitch), get cozy on the sofa and hem that baby up with a slip stitch or catch stitch.
Once you're all hemmed, it's time for step 36, where you'll catch stitch the edge of the facing down to the hem. First, note that this is a raw edge. If your fabric unravels, you can finish it with a little strip of seam binding or bias tape first.
Step 38! French tack your lining hem to the coat hem at the side seams.
To do this, use a hand needle and a long strand of strong thread. Take a little stitch from the top of the coat hem, and then a little stitch from the bottom of the lining hem, leaving 1" of slack between the stitches. Repeat these two stitches so you have several strands of thread between the two layers of fabric. Then cover those stitches with blanket stitches. Here is a diagram from the Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing that will help!
If you're making machine buttonholes, do them now.
Sew your buttons on so that they correspond to your buttonholes.
Lastly, give your coat a final press and then remove any basting stitches. Don't forget the basting in the center back pleat of the bodice lining!
Whew! The coat is done. Now it's time to take pictures!