Thursday, October 11, 2012

Coat Collar Conundrum


Readers! Sewers-along! How's it going? I don't have a sewing post for today (tomorrow though!) but I did want to get your opinions on a design issue I'm having with my coat. When I tried on the partially constructed bodice (see above), I found I liked the look of the contrast collar. I started to worry that the collar in the lace/wool would be way too much muchness.

I gave it a test run.


It seems a little much, right? It's almost like the beauty of the fabric gets lost when there's too much of it.

I tried draping some black wool crepe on it.

Nice! What do you think?

And then, as an experiment, I tried ivory.

Nah. Not loving it.

And then I remembered this blog post by sew-along moderator Liz about vintage coat details. I loved this Lilli Ann jacket she included. (I am a HUGE Lilli Ann fan; just Google "Lilli Ann suit" and you'll see what I mean.)


Wouldn't it be cool to do some sort of contrast inset on the collar? I mocked it up with some bias silk ribbon.



I think I love it! I found another picture of the suit style:

{source}
I like how it curves around, getting wider at the shoulder. I could mimic this idea with an inset of black wool crepe (the same I used for the bound buttonholes). Bonus: I wouldn't have to scrap the facings I already cut from the lace.

What do you all think? Which one is your preference?

Thanks for helping me out with this one!

90 comments:

  1. I like the contrast edge (your last choice) the best! Highlights the shape of the collar while still showcasing the lace.

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  2. I like the contrasting edge! It could also be beautiful if you did it in small little stripes, out of a millinery grosgrain, so it could make it around the curves- or do three small rows of the millinery grosgrain, like they have on little edwardian capelets! After all, the 40's and 50's was a re-visit to the turn of the century!

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  3. YES! INSET!! It's gorgeous with that black edge.
    ~Natalie

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  4. You can't go wrong with the contrast edge--but I like the solid black collar best; it really pops and it seems like it would frame your face in a really lovely way.

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  5. The black contrast edge is gorgeous!

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  6. I like the solid black collar the best...incidentally, which of these will feel the best against your neck?

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  7. I really like the contrast edgeband and how it emphasizes the collar. The blagk collar works really well as well!

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  8. I like the contrasting edge, really sets off the collar and breaks up the all lace look.

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  9. I love the black collar and the collar with the black trim equally x

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  10. I don't think you can go wrong with either the black collar or the contrast edge. Both really set off the lace.

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  11. Gertie, here's one of my own Lilli Anns, trimmed in velvet and blogged about here for more ideas: http://thebluegardenia.typepad.com/the_diary_of_the_blue_gar/lilli-ann/

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  12. I like the contrasting collar but the solid black collar is lovely too.

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  13. i like your last choice! but the white collar is cute too. mmh, tough to decide :)

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  14. Just love the Lilli Anne idea, shows off the fabric beautifully.

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  15. The blank collar really sets off the fabric nicely. However, the edge sets off the fabric equally nicely and is higher fashion. Go for the contrast edge. It's gorgeous!

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  16. Yes to the contrast detail! You could make the trim leather for a little edge.

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  17. I'm going to against the grain.......I do really like the edged collar, but I love the ivory one!

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  18. I really like the solid black collar the best. It adds depth to the piece and gives the eye a resting place. This makes the focus of the jacket the lovely lace. I feel the ribbon detail is nice but not sufficient enough in bulk, if the jacket's fabric was more uniform as in the Lilli Ann photo above the ribbon would be a good option.

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  19. My first choice for your coat is the black along the edge with the lace fabric; second choice-the all black collar. I think the cream is too stark.

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  20. Hi! My first choice is the lace collar with the black contrast trim. Then the lace only collar. The white didn't appeal to me, mostly because I'd be afraid to do anything in it lest I spill and stain it. Or even get lipstick on it. I'm clumsy and never wear white for that reason! But I really think the black edging is lovely.

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  21. I agree; the just lace option makes everything kind of blend together. The contrasting stripe makes a huge difference. I think you should do that!

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  22. I agree that all pattern is too much. The collar just disappears. I do like how it looks with the black edging, it sets the collar off nicely. All black is quite nice too.

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  23. I like the contrast edge too. But I also like the white collar.
    -Emily

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  24. While I liked all three, I would choose the black collar. It pops, it makes the lace stand out better, and on the plainer black I could wear one of my fancy vintage jeweled pins and it wouldn't 'get lost' in the lace. So with the black collar, I could have my lace and wear my pins too. :)

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  25. I like the black collar best, followed closely by the contrast edging one. The all-lace collar is uninspiring and I almost dislike the ivory collar one for some reason.

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  26. I would have to vote for the black edging 1st and solid black 2nd. It is going to be a drop dead gorgeous coat either way! Hope my skills are up to par soon so I can sew one.

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  27. Black collar all the way! I agree with a previous commenter that it gives the eye a place to rest after gazing over yards and yards of such a beautiful, intricate pattern. Plus I think it will be a beautiful frame for your neck, face, and any jewelry, hair accessories or special makeup you happen to be wearing.
    I'm a fan of black (it goes with everything! Including black!) so when I saw the black collar version I instantly fell in love. That particular version seemed to be the most 'simple elegent' look in my mind. I'm am worried that once you get the full skirt bottom attached to the coat, the edging along the collar (the 3rd variation you offered) will just get lost in a sea of fabric....unless you trim the sleeves or pockets or find some other place to use the trim to pull it all together.
    I can't wait to see what you decide!

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  28. contrast edge just looks so right .
    full black a little heavy and sort of ready to wear ish.
    Ivory hmm the least practicle of all, lipstick and grime would spring to mind.
    Patricia - who has always admired white coat wearers on the London underground they either have a teflon coating or shares in a dry cleaning firm x

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  29. I'm for the contrasting edge, b/c it's subtle enough to "pop" the outer edge of the collar, and not overwhelm it like some of the solid colors tend to do.

    Either way, niiiice fabric.

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  30. I like the edging. But I also like it with either white or black. So many decisions...if I had to pick, edging. :)

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  31. I'm loving the contrast edge, it really breaks up all of the lace without being too heavy.

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  32. Definitely either the contrast or the ivory! Contrast looks beautiful as the black on the pattern. :)

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  33. I prefer the black color, but the contrast edge collar is nice as well.

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  34. Oh I prefer the black collar and then next the contrast edge. They both really offset your fabric. Did you do post of your fabric details? What is it and where did you get that fabric! Laughs :)

    (leads the gagglers in the Sew-A-Long)

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  35. The contrast is awesome. I did initially like the cream collar, but I would get make-up on it immediately.

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  36. I definitely vote for the black contrast ribbon - or the black contrast collar. Both look amazing and will really show off that beautiful fabric.

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  37. Definitely the solid black collar. I agree with a previous commenter that when you get the 'skirt' portion of your coat attached, it will really offset the sea of beautiful lace nicely.

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  38. I like the contrast colour but not in black. I think it would be nice in ivory.

    The black collar is nice, but as a contrast, it seems to get a little lost and swallowed up the rest of the pattern. I think an ivory contrast trim would hold it's own better against all the lace.

    Leila

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    Replies
    1. I meant the contrast inset, not the entire collar, sorry for not being clearer.

      Leila

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  39. I'm loving the contrast inset. I agree that all lace would be way too much but that touch of black inset would be perfect!

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  40. Contrast trim, without a doubt!

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  41. Loving the bias tape trim, really breaks up the pattern nicely, the black wasn't too bad either...

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  42. You're onto a winner. Love the contrast edge. Really sets off the beautiful lace fabric. Such a great touch.

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  43. Either the black or the contrast edge collar. Gorgeous material!

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  44. Like the contrast edge the best. In black.

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  45. I like the contrast and the black equally, but I'm not a fan of the ivory at all.

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  46. I like the contrast band the best - I feel like the solid collar hides the lace-y fabric too much. The little bit of solid around the edges highlights the shape of the collar AND lets the fabric speak for itself. It feels like whatever fabric you use on the collar will be the first thing you notice about the coat, so if you want the lace to stand out, use it there. It does lose some of its "punch" as just lace on lace, though. Good idea to mix it up!

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  47. Well, if you did Ivory, I would think some big ivory buttons would be necessary. I really like the black and the contrast black band is nice too.

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  48. I like the black contrast. It looks lovely. Whatever you decide please show the steps since I have the same fabric and I am enjoying the help. I'm still trying to get my muslin correct in between running my children from sport to spor!

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  49. I like the full black with your fabric. I'm thinking of doing mine in black faux fur with my purple/black wool. But you have me thinking about the black edging instead. Decisions!!
    Erin/Graceamen

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  50. Love the contrast. It showcases the collar's beautiful shape as well as the fabric. Plus, I think it will probably frame your face well. I am liking your design more and more as you progress in the project!

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  51. Great choice! I liked the ivory, too. But not JUST black.

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  52. No ivory collar- it can get dirty quicker. Definitely like the black ribbon outlining the main fabric.

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  53. I like the contrast outer edge in black, especially if you can mimic the wider edge at the shoulders as in the Lilli Ann sample. This ties in with your bound buttonholes, right? Continuity is good. Second choice is the solid black (also ties in with your buttonholes). Nix on the cream...looks nice but would only work if buttonholes were also cream.

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  54. The ivory white just took caught my eye, but I'm swaying toward the contrast as a second option. I think the black is just too heavy for such a beautiful fabric.

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  55. I think the black collar is a little too heavy~ the ribbon trim on the collar is perfect! it draws attention up and also nicely accents the lines of the collar/neckline and will frame your neck/face beautifully.

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  56. Contrasting Edge! Beautiful!

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  57. Black trim looks lovely, black collar looks glamorous. It's a hard call. Black collar is very rich and dramatic looking.

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  58. Contrasting edge in black, with a thin line of white/ivory around the edge closest to the lace!

    I think the solid black edge is just a tad TOO "solid" and could use a touch of white/ivory to harmonize it better with the black and white lace.

    Or, even RED. I LOVE black and white with a tiny hit of RED on it.

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  59. I actually like the full effect fabric but the ribbon is definitely next best. Beautiful fabric too!

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  60. I say you "Lilli Ann" it! Perfect solution---I think it would look very rich in black velvet.

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  61. Good Idea, love the contrasting edge detail.

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  62. I like the White the best but I do like your contrast strip alot I think your initial 'too much of a muchness' will be an issue still. I think you should experimant with the width and colour of the contrast stripe.. in my opinion it needs to be wider than the suit you pictured to properly separate the collar and the coat itself other wise they kind of just blend to the eye because the lace is quite busy.
    I do love the white though!

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  63. How about Astrakhan? Or faux Astrakhan? Not sure I spelled that right, but it would look beautiful against the lace/wool

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  64. My favourite is the ivory, but it is impractical (hello lipstick marks!). I have been returning to this page all night trying to decide which is the most appealing. In the end my vote is for the solid black, it makes the coat look very lush and expensive. I find the contrast with the pattern too busy.

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  65. As I was reading, I was thinking about a velvet edge, and then you said it too! The Lilli Ann idea is the way to go. Someday I dream of a coat like this with Persian lamb on collar (and matching hat!). Loving your work, this will be a spectacular coat.

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  66. Love , Love , love the contrast edge! So elegant! I just might borrow that idea for a jacket I have planned for spring...
    The all black is also beautiful, it somehow looks more luxorious than the white or the fashion fabric.

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  67. For me the contrast inset is the best option as the lace wool is a beautiful fabric and you would want to show as much of it as possible.

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  68. I really like the contrast inset and agree with Erika that it looks so elegant. I like the ivory collar as second choice. Can't wait to see which one you choose. =0)

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  69. I like black collar the best. It is verry elegant.

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  70. What about using the contrast insert (which I love), but also making a plain black removable collar for if you wanted to wear a pin?

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  71. Another vote for the contrast edge here. It makes for a much younger look than full black collar IMHO.

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  72. Solid black makes it more versatile and helps the lace to pop I think. Plus I think it would frame the face better as well. But, I love black...although it's a bore to sew.

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  73. I prefer the all-black collar. And that Lilli Ann suit is exquisite.

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  74. Definitely the contrast! I love the lace, want to take as much advantage as possible without it feeling too much or losing detail. This just sets the details and the fabric off so well. Great solution!

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  75. My two cent - I love that black accent (the last option). So sharp! it'll really frame the face beautifully.

    And definitely a bonus to not waste any fabric ;)

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  76. I like the last option with the black edging as it highlights the lace without swamping it or contrasting too much (as is the case with the white). Lily. xxx

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  77. oh yes the last option! beautiful! the all black collar is my second fave

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  78. I like the black one and the contrast trim best.

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  79. Yes to black contrast trim with the lace collar!!! It's lovely. As soon as our out-of-town company leaves I'll be back to MY coat ;-).

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  80. That black trim effect is very good, particularly tappered as shown in the LA suit, I would offer up the skirt to check you are still happy with the balance.

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  81. I like the solid black. What about a solid gray/silver? Gray/silver may be hard to match up to the gray/silver background of your fabric but could be interesting.

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  82. Gertie,

    I have another option for you. I think the ivory is perfect, especially for your colouring and how it sets off the lace fabric. How about using the ivory with the black inset? You would then be tying in the bound buttonholes with the black and the ivory collar will look perfect!:)

    Which ever option you choose will look beautiful on you. I just think the ivory will actually look more spectacular on you. :) Love your fabric choices.

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  83. Have you considered removable collars. That way you can have the lovely ivory and clean it when needed while wearing the one with edging or the black. I personally like the ivory best but it lacks practicality unless it can be removed for more frequent cleaning. They are all good choices.

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  84. I love the black collar. My second favourite is the contrast edge. Both really highlight the beautiful collar, which could potentially get lost from a distance with that beautiful lace.

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  85. Hi Gertie! I am loving how your coat is looking - I am busting to start on mine, but I have a few other commitments to get through first.

    I think that the black collar looks so so so elegant - for me, it would be my choice. I just imagine wearing a gorgeous scarf or statement piece of jewellery with it.

    My second option would be the black edge option.

    Either would look absolutely lovely!

    (delayed response I know but that's my two cents :) )

    Kathryn.

    www.kimakeitmine.blogspot.com

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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