Another fabulous couture day out here in the wilds of Baltimore! I'm really slumming it here at the Crowne Plaza surrounded by fabulous fabrics and gorgeous dresses. Don't worry about me too much, I did remember the bubble bath.
Yesterday I got my coat underlinings all cut out (muslin for my coat bodice, silk organza for the sleeves and skirt). So today I could jump right into fabric cutting. Here's my underlining laid out on my wool.
I think one of my biggest lightbulb moments so far was finally understanding the importance of the seamline (as opposed to seam allowance) in couture sewing. The seamline is all that matters, and the seam allowance doesn't actually need to be even! You start with a muslin on which you mark the seam line with wax tracing paper, and then cut around the piece, giving yourself an approximate 1" seam allowance. When you baste the seams together, you match the seamlines, making sure that they're pinned precisely on each side.
The process is repeated when you transfer your markings to your underlinings. Check out this piece, for instance. The waistline got adjusted during my fitting, but there's no need to fuss around with the seam allowance. See how there's less of a seam allowance on the left than the right? Look at the purple arrows.
I'm trying to make a point of watching others work on their projects as well. Three ladies are making strapless dresses, which I've been following eagerly. Here's a pic from a demo of making boning channels in an inner corselette.
More to come, friends.