Thursday, November 11, 2010

The Secret to an Instant Hourglass

Ah, foundation garments: a subject near and dear to my heart. It doesn't take a lot to get me writing about undies, but I feel especially moved to write about longline bras. Mostly because I'm worried they're becoming extinct! Why, oh why, don't more women wear these fabulous, comfortable bras that do wonders for the figure? They provide support, smooth without pinching, and give you a nice foundation for retro garments, all at the same time. And did I mention comfortable? I usually take off my bra the nanosecond I get home from work, but I often find myself just hanging out while still wearing my longline bra. That's pretty much the highest recommendation I can give an undergarment!

Retro foundation garments have certainly come more into public awareness with the advent of Mad Men. But have you noticed how people only talk about the girdles? Girdles are only half the equation that will get you that Joan shape. I was pleased to see costume designer Janie Bryant mention longline bras in her new book and give them credit where it's due:
How do you think Joan Holloway achieves that seamless hourglass silhouette with nary a visual hiccup to her sensuous curves? She wears a long-line bra that comes down to her waist and a closed-bottom girdle, which resembles a pair of modern-day bicycle shorts, with boning and garters. 
The first time I wore a longline bra that actually fit, I felt like I had discovered the Holy Grail. I'm really into this Carnival fronthook one. Not only are they super comfortable (seriously!), but they smooth your midriff and define your waist like no pair of Spanx can. They make the perfect wiggle dress even wigglier! I did have to do some trial and error, though, so here are a few tips I discovered.
  • You might want to go up a band size. If you have a substantial ribcage, you may find that your normal band size is too small in a longline. I discovered this the hard way.
  • Once you get the band size right, you may then discover that the cups are too big. This can be remedied by taking the cups in with your handy sewing skills. (This may sound like a lot of fiddling around with a bra, but I promise that a custom-fit longline is worth the trouble.)
  • I have also read that if you have the opposite problem, i.e. small torso and a bigger bust (I'll try not to be too jealous), you can sew darts into the midriff of the bra to make it snugger.
  • The cups aren't lined at all, so I added thin sew-in cups from the notions store.
  • I've also tried this Rago model, which I love the look of, but it's tricky to get on (you have to fasten it in the front and then shimmy it around to the back) and the cups aren't as easy to customize as the Carnival one.
  • You'll probably want some sort of control garment on the bottom to keep that smooth line going. But don't feel like you need to go all old-school girdle. I've found that control-top tights work fine, as does a pair of Spanx. (Also: if you're between sizes on Spanx, go up a size rather than down! I don't think it's worth compromising on comfort.) 
  • If the fit issues on a longline are bringing you down, I also like this Rago waist cincher which allows you to wear your own bra.
Anyhoo, I hope this is somehow helpful. It takes so much trial and error to find the right shapewear solution, don't you think? The tips here are ones that have worked for me. And by "worked," I mean they did the job in addition to being comfortable to wear for 10 hours straight. Please share any tips of your own!

P.S. Hey, I missed you all! It was nice having a little blogging break, but it's sure good to be back.

54 comments:

  1. If the mood ever strikes you to feature another sewing movie, I suggest "The Pajama Game." Of course it's about factory sewing rather than home sewing. But anyways it's a colorful and really fun display of vintage fashion.

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  2. I've been looking for the perfect longline myself, because I used to have several vintage ones and they were the greatest. The powernet back does wonders for your posture, and I always felt locked and loaded bust-wise. I'm excited to hear my memories of the comfort might not be delusional wistful thinking! I do wish there was a store I could try one on, but unless I find the right size in a vintage shop (unlikely now!) it's the internet for me..

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  3. My mother and her sister wears these. Whether hot or cold out. Under anything including sweats. Funny story....

    When I was a budding woman of 8 and told by the department store lingerie consultant that I was now required to wear a bra, I burst into inconsolable tears. She showed me a pretty bra with lace and flowers all over it and asked me if I wouldn't like to wear that. Through my tears I was incredulous that such a garment could be mine. She asked me why I had cried. I said I didn't know that I could wear something so pretty. She laughed and asked what I thought I would wear. I pointed to the long line bra. The consultant laughed and asked why I thought I would have to wear one those. My mother answered, "Because that's what I wear." I had never seen any other type of bra.

    I just can't bring myself to get there yet though I am certain these would make me look wonderful under my clothes.

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  4. I think this would do wonders for me, but as I have so much difficulty finding regular bras that fit, I'm kind of scared off from delving into more specialized/vintage foundational garments....

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  5. yay! I've been thinking lately of getting a longline bra - I looked a lot prior to getting married, but my dress was corset backed, so I ended up skipping - there was already enough locking and loading!

    I'd love a front closure that comes in my size (40 DD), although the waist cincher might also do the trick. I have a few bustiers that I wear and they hook in the back, and not only are they hard to get on, but I always have to plan ahead, because they are IMPOSSIBLE to get on if I'm the least bit damp from taking a shower!

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  6. I love the idea of these but I don't think I've ever seen them ion my size (32J). thugh I guess I might be a 34HH in a longline

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  7. When I first saw the picture, I thought, "Wow, I haven't seen one of those in a long time!" In answer to why more women don't wear them - I think association and possibly cost? When I was small, in the seventies, ladies of advancing years wore them - and the manufacturers haven't changed the look of the lacy powernet, so they look just the same as back in the day. Now, I know that you are not a lady of advancing years, and that you have mentioned them has made me think to go try one on at the department store. I've noticed that a lot of things that were associatead with the older set when I was young, have come back in - but slightly refashioned or with updated material. Couldn't the manufacturers jazz these up a bit? And I wonder about the cost - are they expensive?

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  8. I have been looking for one of these for months and months, but the sizing has been an issue too. No one carries anything smaller than a 34 band size, and while I'm not really all that busty, I do have a narrow ribcage. I've even found it really difficult to find vintage ones in my size. Do you know of any other companies that carry them? Perhaps in a 32C? And one more question about the Rago21. I've been contemplating buying one for a while, but I'd really like to hear more first hand about the fit/sizing. I'm kind of in between sizes and can't decide whether to go up or down one.

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  9. Camisole bras are a nice compromise if you're not comfortable with the idea of a full scale long-line bra. They also work well under t-shirts and knitwear.

    You are so right about having to experiment with the size to accomodate the rib cage. And thanks for the suggestion of purchasing a thin set of cups to wear with unlined bras.

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  10. I've also been lamenting the disappearing long-line strapless bra! Even just a couple of years ago there were better options. Wacoal made my favorite. Now I get them from Va Bien. As a D-cup, wearing typical strapless bras make me want to shoot something. In a strapless longline (aka bustier bra) I can relax, my bust is not sitting at my waist, and the additional smoothing on my torso is oh-so-confidence boosting!

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  11. I love longline bras! This one is my favorite: http://www.girdlebound.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GVG&Product_Code=15003&Category_Code=gbb

    They do make all the difference.

    And for strapless/backless garments, bustiers will do the trick! What Katie Did makes a decent one, but it tends to be a bit big for my frame.

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  12. Have you ever considered making your own?

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  13. You'd love Rigby & Peller here in London, they are the Queens corsetieres and simply the best place to find foundation garments. Will have to pop in and see if they have a magic longline bra.

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  14. I am going to make this search a priority so thanks for the assurance that I can find a comfortable one.

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  15. Gertie: I worry that they are becoming extinct too. I've been looking for one for years (I LOVE the look) but my back size is 32 (they generally start at 34) and they don't go above a DD - at least none of the ones I've found. I know it sounds like fun to have a narrow back and big boobs, but it is a pain in the ass to find sizes (though much less so, thanks to British brands, than it used to be).

    I am going to consider tailoring one - or making one from scratch. I've been trying to sew a bra that fits me for months now (I have all the notions and wires and gizmos required). Of course, I feel far from that endpoint given that I can't even get a regular bra to fit as yet.

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  16. That did it!!! Now I know how really flat chested I am...they do not make long-line bras in my size.

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  17. I've never worn a longline (or Spanx for that matter), but I've been thinking about it as a way to boost the confidence and feel more comfortable in certain clothing items. Thanks for the info!

    I got my Crepe pattern and I'm looking forward to the sew-along.

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  18. These longline bras would be a godsend to me, as I bet it's way more comfortable to have some of the structural support shifted to the waist vs. depending completely on the underwire and straps. It's true though, they are almost impossible to find in a band size less than 34 and a cup size bigger than DD. The closest I've been able to find are these :

    http://www.figleaves.com/us/product.asp?product=Masquerade-Tiffany-Basque&product_id=MQ-5437&size=30f&colour=Ivory

    http://www.figleaves.com/us/product.asp?product=Panache-Confetti-basque&product_id=PA-4077&size=30f&colour=Ivory

    If anyone knows where you can get any others, either off the rack or custom-made, please post it here! I'd love to find one without lace...

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  19. I usually sew mine. I have narrow ribcage and it´s hard to find anything that would measure 60- 65 cm´s. I originally drew a pattern from a fitting bra, used it as a base to the cup, then just drew the rest of the bra on the pattern and elongated it. That´s it. Besides, when you make your own, you get one that truly fits.
    I use usually plain, white cotton ( because I have no life ) in two layers, hide the boning inside the layers on boning canals and add a strip of underwear spanx ( about 4 inches in width ) to the mid- back. The hooks are sewn to the front. Less tricky to put on in the fasting is on the middle.

    Warning : SEWING UNDERWEAR IS ADDICTIVE!

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  20. Thanks for this post, Gertie! I have been meaning to write you about what foundation garments you wear to get such a nice smooth line. Any suggestions for control garments on the bottom to avoid a bump in between the longline bra and the bottoms? This is my constant problem with control top pantyhose--they just create an ugly bump in my middle!

    PS I can't wait for the Crepe sew-along!

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  21. I keep meaning to find the time to stitch myself a longline bullet bra. In the meantime though, I generally wear a midbust corset when I can't face wearing a regular bra!

    Underwires just generally aren't that comfortable for us bustier ladies. Hence the corset wins over the bra ;-)

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  22. Gertie,
    Great idea! I'm going to have to try one! Thanks for the interesting blog!

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  23. Welcome back Gertie! We missed you!

    Just last night I was on What Katie Did's website looking at corsets. I didn't even think of a longline bra...Probably because I'm like Sassy Lassie, "small in front" and the last time I wore a longline bra there was so many sewn in cups added, I felt like I was smuggling something in my bra. Come to think about it, Kleenex might have been a better option...but seriously, it did nothing for my body image.

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  24. This is totally new to me and potentially life changing. Thank you!

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  25. I love the look of longline bras, but I'm always really bummed they don't come in my size :( I wish people would start making longline or pretty bras in the 32 range. When I was shopping for my honeymoon I pretty much gave up on finding pretty bras. If anyone knows of any sources I'd be really happy to know :) Someday I'll figure out how to sew them myself but it seems like a bit of a daunting task for some reason.

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  26. http://www.littlewomen.com/

    This looks like a good sight for those smaller individuals out there!

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  27. Large cup size? If you can find a good rib cage fit, try cutting out the cups and wear it with a bra--or even better, stitch in a new set of cups that fit (leave in any underwire that the long line may have). Midriff gaps can be fixed by adding hooks to the inside of the bra waistline and 'eye' bars to the girdle waistline (hook them together). It's very Wonder Woman!

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  28. I think I would love one of these. Alas, I am a 32G at the moment, and nursing, and I don't think they make nursing versions of longline bras.

    Maybe I could hack one up and add hooks in the straps for nursing access. Hmmm....

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  29. Thanks Gertie. I've been missin your posts too...

    You know, I've never heard of a long-line bra before. I'm going to have to try this out!

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  30. Love it! I'm wondering though, what are your thoughts on the full body ones, like the Rago Body Brief? I have tried the spanx cami tops and such, but they just don't seem to do anything for me, maybe I'm expecting too much! lol.

    Great post, I would love to know more about how the different types of undergarments give different "looks" to vintage and everyday clothing.

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  31. I am so desperate for a long line bra I have such traumas with my lumpy torso and bras that bite in.

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  32. I like the idea of making my own! I've been looking into it a bit and maybe I'll take the plunge soon. Weirdrockstar, thanks for the tips!

    Yeah, the sizing stuff is kind of sad on longline bras; I guess they're just not really in demand anymore. What I really need is a 36A, but they don't make them in an A cup at all. I make do with a 36B and alter it myself.

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  33. i love the rago 21, it takes almost two inches off my waist... haven't tried a longline bra yet, but maybe i should start saving up for one!

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  34. Thanks for posting this Gertie!

    A word of caution about longline bras and the rago waist cincher for the plus-sized/those of us that have belly rolls and/or very jiggly middles :) (like me!)

    - longline bras are not super comfy for my rolly/belly body type, and they tend to roll up from the bottom (I know, how it that possible with all the boning? but it's true). It sort of depends on you having a smaller waist than band size, which isn't true for me.
    - I own the rago waist cincher tends to roll-up from the bottom on me, because my hips are much larger than my waist. It's difficult to get the right size!

    But not to be a total stormcloud on this parade of vintage-inspired foundation garments: Herroom.com has been a great source of longline bras, waist cinchers, girdles, and all sorts of vintage-inspired goodness - I would highly recommend it!

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  35. I don't think ANY foundation garment is going to give me an hourglass figure and as we're going into summer and potentially 40 degree (CELSIUS!) heat, just the thought of those longline bras is making me have to take a typing break to fan myself... but next time I have to wear something vintage-y I will be thinking about this a bit more!
    Meanwhile, I have a question for you/your readers about the Vintage Vogue pattern series - are they EXACTLY the same as they were when they were first released? Or have adjustments been made to suit today's figure/materials/sewers? I've just made my first (trial) dress using a Vintage Vogue, which is why I ask.. you can see it here.. http://stylewilderness.blogspot.com/2010/11/vogue-vintage-in-nylon.html

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  36. Ooooh yeah. I love foundation garments (sounds nicer than saying 'girdle') I wear with everything form fitted! My grandma think its hilarious that she hated them back then, and now I gladly choose to wear them.

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  37. Girls, if you go up a back size in your bra size, you have to come down a cup, likewise, if you down a back size you have to go up a cup size! This is probably why you will be finding your cups don't fit Gertie. for example, if you are a 32c and go up to a 34, you'd be 34b, and if you went down to a 30, you'd be a 30d. Remember, the wires at the front should sit flat against you chest in-between your boobs, and the wires at the side should be sitting back off your breast tissue. If the wires are not sitting flat against your body under your boobs then you band is too big, a very common problem! (I'm a professional bra fitter by the way :o) ) What katie did sells some nice faux vintage lingerie http://www.whatkatiedid.com/ and for girls with the big boobs and small back, bravissimo in the UK is the place to go!

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  38. I have two vintage longline bras, of the bullet variety. Or, I should say, the frightening torpedo variety. I'm a D cup, and while they are definitely the most comfortable bras I own, they make my breasts look... angry. Menacing. Weapon-like, and not in a good way. Any ideas on how to tone down the pointiness without losing the vintage look?

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  39. FYI to Canadians: Just went to herroom.com and found a long line bra in my size (Goddess 689). Cost of the bra was 50 bucks. Plus shipping and duties it came to 107.00. Needless to say, US shipping is insane. Has anyone found this bra via UK, by any chance? The shipping charges to Canada are very different from UK.

    Note: Even on amazon.com (also US, but cheaper) the bra was going to be 25.00 in shipping and duty. Is is just me or does that seem unreasonable??

    I so wish we could get US items at an affordable rate here...

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  40. i would love to see a longline bra in my size, but i think it might be overkill... i'm a 34AA, and really don't need any real 'support', but i would love something to smooth out my silly protruding ribs... (not from skinniness, i'm a bit squishy, they just stick out! not a good look in a wiggle dress.)

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  41. I prefer the longer-line longline bras--and in fact I just ordered one yesterday from HerRoom.com. The ones that more closely resemble a victorian corset, but with cups. (In fact, they are basically the modern version of a corset.) I have a bit of a (okay, fine, an ample) belly pooch, so something that stops at the waist would not only be uncomfortable, it would squish the rest of my belly out below the band. Blech!
    Anyway, I find longlines to be incredibly comfortable--once they're on and fastened correctly. I'm not a fan of having to fasten so many hooks and eyes behind my back. And to get the right fit, I can't fasten it in front and then wiggle it around like a lot of people recommend. There's just too much "give" around my torso to allow that to work real well. But having discovered HerRoom.com only recently, I'm really excited to find a source of longline bras that are actually available in my cup size, as so many other retailers don't go above a D.
    I actually have a true (reproduction) Victorian corset that I've worn on occasion that is tremendous at sculpting my hourglass into an even more pronounced and controlled hourglass under wiggle dresses. And the lack of real cups doesn't even make that much difference. Viva la corset!

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  42. Thanks! I've been wondering about how comfortable longlines would be--good to have your take on it.

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  43. When I first went vintage I had no idea about foundation garments. I e-mailed Patricia from Brabarella Lingerie and she was super helpful and nice. We discussed various brands and styles to help me achieve the look I was going for. I highly recommend them. I finally ended up with the Rego 21 and I love it.

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  44. Its all your fault! I have to special order all my bras (38E or F, depending on style...). Since I needed a REAL sports bra I decided to order a long-line bra too so I could get free shipping.

    www.biggerbras.com if anyone is interested. They have a good return policy.

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  45. It is really difficult to find comfy and most importantly, fitting undergarments, bra particularly. Here in Finland special style bra's are really hard to find, and longline bra is one of them. You don't see them very much in shops. In addition to that, since my size is 85F it is also really hard to find fitting bra in any common style either. And when you try to combine these two problems, it becomes pretty much impossible to find anything without having it tailor made.
    I have done pair of bra when I was studying to be a seamstress but it was pretty time consuming and they didn't turn out very fitting, hence I've never tried again.

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  46. Wow, I'm sold! To be honest, even though I've heard the term "long line bra" for a while, I never really know what one was...

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  47. Thank you so much for these tips! I've been thinking about getting a longline bra for a while now (definitely inspired by Joan and Janie!) and this info was very helpful. :)

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  48. I'm glad I'm not the only one having difficulty finding bras (of any variety, but particularly long-lines) in the 32-band size variety (32DD). I generally wear an overbust corset instead of a bra -- much more comfortable than a regular bra, and since I make them, I know they fit! But I admit I wouldn't mind something simpler some days. If anyone does find a well-fitting long-line in the 32 range, I hope they spread the news.

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  49. I had a longline bra in college. I loved that bra to death. Okay until the girls grew two sizes. Funny how I'd never thought about getting another one.

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  50. Always an interesting topic :o)

    For those of you looking for a widerange of sizes you could try

    http://ladygrace.com

    I have no affiliation, but somehow got on their mailing list and get their catalogue in the mail all the time. They're not flashy, but they seem to carry a wide range of sizes and styles of longline and other shapewear as well as regular undergarments and the prces eem reasonable. I have not ordered from them, though, so no guarantees on the shopping experieince.

    Just thought I'd add that to the conversation as another option.
    Just thought

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  51. I don't understand why control garments are always shown on women who need no control. Or why D cup bras are heavily padded.
    I have a really hard time, being short and busty, finding control garments that fit.

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  52. I was reading this post last night & thought how perfect a longline bra would be for my miss18 who is going to her formal (prom) in a dress i'm making for her from a vintage early 50s wedding pattern. Low & behold when we were in the city today we spotted a vintage one in a Red Cross vintage store; it was her size. We got it for $19. I'll have to replace the stretched elastic & reduce one of the cups a little for the perfect fit. she says it's really comfortable to wear! Gertie could you possibly do a post on how you went about adjusting you cups down please? Or give me some advice on how to do it. I've never forayed into sewing underwear and i'm ambivalent! My sewing skills have advanced since i recently found your blog and now i'm a faithful dauly reader!

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  53. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  54. A little lift, one of the better playtex wirefree
    i have found, comfortable too. The lilac color is awesome.

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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